indigoeagle

I found this pair: https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/special/order/confirm/https%3A%2F%2Fjp.mercari.com%2Fitem%2Fm56078343119/13_1/ For a W32 waist: 41cm and rise: 31cm. The back rise is not stated. But the front rise doesn't seem very small. So FWs might also be close to the original then with their relatively long back rises.

Ah, smaller and larger here means shorter and longer front and back rise (the translated English was a bit confusing to me). Interesting point. I have the new 0105. It feels quite baggy, but still good. SO on his site only states the waist and inseam, I think. That blog post is from more than three years ago. There had been another post afterwards about a new shape, the leg was slimmed a little, I think.

And he had worked with Samurai. (this has possibly been posted before somewhere on the site. But I hadn't been aware of it.) He had been fascinated by Samurai's original 15oz denim (I guess the otokogi). On a whim he asked Mr Nogami, whether he could make a jeans out of his denim and immediately feeling bad about asking such a question. The denim is of course a main component of a denim company. But to his astonishment Mr Nogami agreed. The results look pretty cool. It seems they were never for sale. Pictures from his blog:

Some more interesting items from his blog. On the shape of his jeans: "The s01xx is designed to be like the vintage 501xx, which has a smaller front and a larger back. Many of the replicas today have been modified to make the back bodice smaller and the hips look smaller. If worn just right, it makes the legs look longer and is very stylish, but if worn oversized, it creates an unattractive silhouette like a diaper." The diaper butt phenomenon has been experienced by many, I think. I don't really understand what he's talking about. It seems to be about pattern making and the right proportions. What has been discussed before: if you have a rare vintage pair in 30 it can be a challenge to make a size 36 from there. If you just multiply the different parts by 1,2, it might turn out weird.

Nice touch with the name of the craftsman on the tab.

So what is he saying? I think there were jacket and jeans available at Barnstormer a few years ago. But they sold really quickly. And then afterwards there were events at the Barnstormer shop, where customers could buy. It seems he prefers to have customers see and feel his products before buying. Except for some items that he sometimes puts up in his online shop. He has interesting blog articles, always testing and researching more and more. Sounds great. I'm writing the following from the info on his blog to sort all the info for me. And it might be of interest to others here. He seems to want to stay close to the vintage originals, also in their cuts. Making jackets longer or narrower to make the silhouette more modern or fashionable is not his philosophy. The aim is to make his products indistinguishable from original vintage items, when one ignores the brand name on the buttons or patches. His first fabric apparently was LF44 (low tension 12.5oz denim). And then in January 2024 he came out with a new one, NP01. The NP01 is a much darker dyed fabric (original 12oz denim). Then in November NP02 he developed the NP01 further and changed its name to SO02. In November he also introduced another denim fabric, the SL01- a special order fabric made by the Okamoto mill in Okayama. He developed this denim in close collaboration with the president Okamoto. It's around 13oz. It seems to have as he writes on his blog "the characteristic bounce, elasticity, and stickiness of vintage denim, as well as a "dried-out feel." His trousers are all called S01XX (no matter where pre war, war or post war models.) And similarly for the jackets S06XX. The Okamoto Textile company has been mentioned on this board before, nearly 20 years ago.

Do you measure the thighs like BIG? https://www.blueingreensoho.com/pages/measurement-guide#tab1 For the W34 I got 34cm (ca. 13.4") in the S601XX with denim pocket bags. They are a bit slimmer than my W33 in the FW1937s, but not much.

Warehouse DSB 1936 model • Freewheelers Jenkins and LotS601XX 1945

I don't find them particularly slim. For the W34 the hem is 22cm (8.66 "). So not super wider either. With the Jenkins shirt.

I was a bit hesitant at first about the vertical fading. But with FWs one can trust that things will looking aesthetically. And with the fading pics here, foremost by fader extraordinaire @shredwin_206, my concerns were allayed and I got a pair as I was curious what their WWII denim was like. And I wasn't disappointed. Neither by the cut. Wearing them feels really good.

Looks great. What does your whole baggage look like? The roll mat on the bike and a backpack?

It looks like SDA has updated the fits of their 100 series with higher rises. https://blog.denimio.com/studio-dartisan-100-series-updating-classic-jeans-models/?lang=us

I think, this is the banner denim (7x7 three states), while the other one is a bit different, DSB (7.5x7.5 pink selvedge). Like this: https://www.celluloid1984.com/?pid=167921389

Good question: I guess, two things mainly: 1. Access say German state television website from abroad. I think, like in many countries you can only access from a connection within the country. 2. When travelling to make sure, that when I do online banking, etc. that my information can't be recorded/accessed.

While we're talking about techy stuff: any recommendations for fully working VPN?

Yes, it's mostly shop results. Same with insta search.

I'm surprised, that there are no new search alternative coming up. To me the nature of the search results has changed tremendously in the last five or so years. Also often it says "millons" of results, but I cannot go further than page 7 or so. Ten years ago or so I would often deliberately jump to the results on page 15. Same with youtube. You only get ten results pertinent to your query and then some others. Plus many videos, that one could find ten years ago, won't show up anymore.

I guess in our little bubble of vintage clothing and reproduction of those mostly we all prefer classical, lindy (time tested) clothes and combinations thereof. But interesting to see sometimes, what people come up with. The type 1 and 2 jackets in horse hide by High Large Leathers et al manage that mix quite well. I don't think there were vintage ones, but that mix works quite well. The Japanese curator Poggy apparently got famous because he mixed styles like pin stripe jacket with a basket ball shirt or striped shirt and tie with a hoody, etc.. He seems to be very successful with that. He's done lots of collabs. https://hypebeast.com/2025/1/poggy-x-porsche-capsule-collection-release-info https://poggytheman.hamiltonwatch.com/ https://rowingblazers.com/blogs/dispatches/poggy-x-rowing-blazers-the-japanese-menswear-icon-wears-rb-for-paris-fashion-week?srsltid=AfmBOorxcpstDEFx3OilgCvlbHteigPnBeNzWnxGtzHuoU-3g5hxZf-5 https://icon.ink/articles/levis-made-crafted-poggy-the-man-workwear-collection/

Might be a type 2 https://www.instagram.com/p/DIlhLM9MWav/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet (don't know how to embed the insta post/pic)

Here are the sandals

I wouldn't get them, but they look alright. I've got some flip flops/sandals where the top is orslow denim. A bit different, but in that direction. I've started to imagine, how a pair of RW Mocs with say Samurai denim would like. After all the classic sneakers/boats/army shoes are made of canvas/twill and denim, and that looks pretty good. The play with different fabrics and standard designs can be quite interesting. I recently saw a pic of a Japanese guy, who I think lives in Amsterdam and works as consultant on denim (somelier) wearing a type 1 jacket, but made of sage or olive drag coloured nylon twill with the orange lining.

Are there any models in the 501XX book or known to be owned by collectors, that haven't been reproed yet? Sugarcane, TCB, FWs and the others all have their own vintage jeans or work together with collectors to reproduce. Most models have been known for years, but the recent FWs 1945 second half was new to me. The pair is similar to the 1942 one by Warehouse (crotch rivet, denim pocket bags, all yellow stitching, no coin pocket rivets) with the difference perhaps being for the FW one cleaner stitching/cutting again after the end of the war?

Nice contrast between the faded and bluer 46 jeans and the new darker indigo denim of the 45 506.

Also here: https://item.rakuten.co.jp/reminence/c/0000000115/

Here you go, mate: https://search.rakuten.co.jp/search/mall/effector/?sid=197306