indigoeagle

Very interesting. Good point with the models in different sizes. So in a way it makes sense, since Hayashi then started out to make a pair of jeans with vintage like denim. And Kurabo apparently was the first to do so for him. So with the banner denim being vintage denim fabric (but of the some specific period, 20/30?) one could argue, that it's the same objective. But I had also read, that Hayashi had not wanted to create a full replica but rather vintage like denim with a modern twist (though for Denime then probably not as much as with Resolute now). So since WH is mostly focussing on repros one might have expected them to basically copy the original Denime jeans models of the first generation. With Kurabo as the then denim producer still active, it should have been easy to reproduce the specific Denime denim of that time. Perhaps WH's idea here was to offer Denime jeans with a WH twist. For their WH fans. It would be cool, if WH could answer some questions like that. Do they have a kind of spokes person? Perhaps the Japanalogue guy can set up an interview. Not sure, if there has been one with WH.

I have a pair of Derbies from them in shell. Very solid shoes in my opinion.

After all all the repro brans base their jeans on the Levi's XX. Like Jelado with the Last Resort research cut up a pair of XX jeans and analyzed them to get as close to the original as possible. So Warehouse did that with the banner. Is the Denime banner denim the same "formula" just with the brown weft? Did Levi's also sometimes use a white and sometimes a brown weft? Or where does this brown weft come from? I think UES in their WWII also use brown weft (probably other brands do, too). So with the denim they all want to get as close to the original as possible. We have seen the pics from TCB. And with the cuts it is the same, no? Perhaps that is where there the bigger differences are.

Some more here. https://thedenimhound.com/2017/06/canton-overalls-the-birth-of-japanese-denim-and-the-art-of-imperfection/ " In 1963, under a partnership with Canton Textile Mills (USA) & Oishi Trading Company, Maruo Clothing Inc. made the first pair of domestically manufactured jeans." So Canton was like Cone a US denim mill. Oishi imported the fabric and Maruo (Big John) manufactured them and they were sold in Japan as Canton jeans. "In October of 1965 Canton dropped the world’s first one-wash jeans (This first ever run of one-washed jeans used several household washing machines to wash). *This info is disputed by the denim brand Edwin, who claims to have made the first pair in 1961. In 1967 Maruo Clothing created its own denim brand “Big John”. Big John began manufacturing jeans using Cone Mills denim starting in 1968. In the early 70’s, Big John would be the first to use Japanese denim (AFAIK from Kurabo Mills) in it’s production of jeans. Canton Textile Mills closed down in 1981. Oishi Trading Company had to produce Canton jeans using different workshops such as Takahata. Eventually, Oishi Trading Co. decided to stop producing jeans under the Canton brand in 1983. The son of the founder of Oishi Trading Co. went on to create Oni Denim."

Interesting. I found this just now: "ONI is owned by Masao Oishi, the son of the founder of Oishi Trading Company who were one of the original Canton partners who first made domestically manufactured jeans in Japan in the 1960’s under the Brand name “Canton”, using American Denim from Canton Mills." https://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/8o7uhd/oni_day/

What were the cuts like? I've checked the measurements from the original line from their then site and their rises were pretty low. For a W34 for the 66 26.5cm, 66XX 25.5 and for the XX 27.5cm. Hayashi's 710 in a similar W36 has a 30cm front rise. The WH Lot 220 for W34 has a front rise of ca. 33cm. Were they always more modernin their cuts rather than repro? But they had all these models, like 30s with cinch back, WWII- perhaps repro with a modern twist?

For the 150th birthday of the 501 last year Levi's had a collab with Nigo. They issued made in Japan pants and a type 3.

Warehouse Lot DD-2001 Jelado 41 Chino

From the measurements they're much bigger than say the Lot 220A, about one size bigger. For the NW Lot 220A 34 waist was 88-90cm, for the XX54 it's 94-96cm. Rise and thigh look similar. Leg opening is a bit bigger.

It might be a nod to their international distributors.

The SDA one is also cut that way.

Is the shipping included in the price perhaps? I saw that at Trophy and some other shops as well. I think, some offer free shipping. And the price difference makes up for that.

Yes, Orslow has great stuff. The hickory pants look good. But there hickory is the 50/50. It seems that the current Headlight pants will fade, so I'm leaning towards them.

What was it at db- British lads comedy hour? 😃

The wikihow is already very informative. Are there any videos by experts explaining these techniques in more detail and showing the various fits?

How do you like hickory items? When looking at pics of someone wearing a pair of hickory pants to me they look quite whiteish. Probably because I'm so used to looking at denim. These are the Samurai pants. However, when I just look at the fabric it's different, darker. And there are different kinds of hickory. Sugar Cane has been issuing Headlight work pants. The current one is about 2/3 blue and 1/3 white. A previous version was more 50/50. The previous one is indigo. I'm not sure, if the current one is also indigo. But probably. Hickory can be combined nicely with denim and probably also brown duck. Here are the pants with a denim jacket. Does anyone have experience with hickory pants? I'm looking for a comfortable fit (wide, high waisted), and more blue than white and in indigo for fades. The Samurai look really nice but are relatively heavy at 17oz. And I'd like to wear the hickory pants in warmer months. The Sugar Cane/Headlight is 11oz, which would be better. Nudie Jeans has a chore coat and pants in 8.5oz. Eat Dust has also offered pants and jacket. There are also some by Stan Ray, Dickies and other. But I'm not sure, if the fabric is indigo.

Here you go

In Germany it's still very sensitive. You'd get into trouble with Native American/South West inspired jewelry, jackets, etc.. Recently there has been some argument about this window iron of the Town Hall of Lichtenberg, a district of Berlin. https://www.bz-berlin.de/berlin/hakenkreuz-rathaus-lichtenberg

Thanks 🙏 Got it now. So we have left/right and top/bottom (yoke). Cool

Ah, thanks. I didn't get it then. I thought the "layering" order of the panels is the yoke switch, but they are two things. What is the yoke switch then?

I'd say the XL is similar to a 42. For a more comfortable fit I got the XXL. I think, only Junky has it.

Ah, there were two switches? I thought it was just one. Or are there two versions for 1937 jeans: both right over left (what LVC, FW and TBC a.o. or doing) and also left over right? 1922 FW 1937 FW 1942 FW 1945 FW 1947 FW 1951 FW

Cushman has put its 2024 FW catalogue online. There are some nice pieces in there. Type 1 jacket and 1937 jeans. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1kcfV2Uq_ZWjzvxrWv9E9dEe2EmCgjwke/view They are both made with vintage sewing machines. 41 Weapon Cloth pants Duck jackets in light brown and black The tshirts from the summer catalogue are also sewn with vintage machines. The made in Taiwan sneakers are also nice. All have relatively fair prices, I find.

The belt looks also great.

On Bears Rakuten I get the normal Japanese prices.