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Duke Mantee

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Everything posted by Duke Mantee

  1. That’s a Journeyman (with an extra flap for even more value) … not a Brakeman 🙄
  2. I said ‘rarely’ and reserved for youth size normally. However the 51s are fairly often released in 30 (wash) length
  3. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Walpier Buttero Rocky, brass hardware and genuine garnets
  4. What’s your chest measurement (as long as you don’t think me rude)?
  5. 47s have always been issued non-wash (not raw 🤨) and wash 34 length in non-wash only (I’ll need to check the catalogues tho’ to be 100%) 32 length in both non-wash and wash … and rarely 30 length wash which mostly came under youth sizing
  6. Happy new year superdenim peeps - much happiness to you all I started with a pair of Bootleggers Steamrollers which now have half my daughter’s dinner on them
  7. Just tap them down if they’re an issue to you (I could care less, but all my belts have deep scars)
  8. Accurate or not bothered? Melton wool or not bothered? To me the Pike Bros shirt seems decent value - not quite one thing or another, but looks the part for reasonable cash
  9. There’s no rule to say you can’t wear denim jackets and jeans as a set. There’s a lot more to differences in pattern too - thread colours, buttons, pocket shapes, belt loops etc … the list is pretty big As for colour - the 51s will be more blue looking than the 47s which are a bit darker almost black-blue
  10. Thanks mate - and you too. Is that cloe horsehide?
  11. Scotchgrain calfskin with Buttero strap, flap lining and zip reinforcement details, LOXX fastener and antique brass snaps and d-rings
  12. Merry Christmas / happy holidays and all that good stuff - hope everyone has a great time
  13. They are a different cut since they ‘broadly’ represent a different era. They are the same same denim but dyed differently. Levi’s didn’t make jackets to ‘go with’ jeans - neither do FW
  14. Maybe a cold spring day is about the limit IMO I’ve only got the deck zip now - same thing though. I think the problem that I have is the jacket is really all or nothing - after many years of hill walking and mountaineering in shitty highlands weather I’ve just conditioned myself to a different philosophy … layers. Alpaca is comfortable for me but I know some folk find the fibres a wee bit prickly against bare skin on occasion.
  15. Fully fastened with gloves and a hat then easy sub-zero to maybe a cold wind 5°C for me mate. Could be I don’t feel the cold so much, but deck jackets were designed for a purpose - if you’ve ever been on a boat in winter in the middle of the North Sea or Atlantic you’ll know. Definitely keep you warm standing watching the football. I think the jacket design is great, but I just don’t get much wear from them. I’d much rather put on a down jacket or my peacoat or even my mackinaw with a couple of layers.
  16. @MJF9 were you being serious wanting to put a denim jacket under the N1? I can’t wear any type deck jackets with alpaca lining with anything more than a shirt or thermal, even with our winter northerlies - I just find them too warm
  17. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Wickett & Craig harness and sand cast English brass
  18. Tremendous work really - and somehow it looks ‘right’ to have such big areas of contrast
  19. Learning to sew badly is one thing, learning to make a proper pattern is something else entirely - many years of learning in that …
  20. I’ve probably had/have more 601XX 51’s than that - anyway it’s hardly a problem when you’ve a pair for each day of the week … Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday and Today
  21. Correct The loops were used in conjunction with the straps of the dungarees
  22. The Gemsa is a really good shirt - I got the navy purple one a couple of years ago … more like a jacket than a shirt IMO
  23. … I can’t see what that shop is because I can’t get Yahoo Auctions here, but you saying 29” seems to confirm my point about variety of sizing methods. Strangely you didn’t refer McFly measurements despite quoting the shop earlier although Avenue, Speedway and others are also stating 30”+ for a Large I’ve seen denims being measured with enough different approaches to give you an inch or more in size and they probably need to be a bit more precise. Unless you actually need a 60” chest jacket we’re getting to the point of when an inch or so makes no substantial difference. The shoulder width will play a big part in the drape at this stage. FW might be a bit slimmer than an original contract M-1948, but as I said, the variation of sizes depending on the contract year was noticeable. If in actual fact you want to compare to a Real McCoys version that’s an entirely different question. I don’t rate RMC much so I don’t have any substantial knowledge here but a quick google gives one retailer stating a Medium is 63cm (25”) and McFly say a FW Medium is 73cm (29”) … I’d say that was a significant difference.
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