bartlebyyphonics

10 hours ago, MJF9 said:

 

 

oh yes: granular detail and monster sleeves! huge!

my experience with 20s jeans was shrinkage wasn't any better or worse than the 50s/40s...

spreadsheet analysis ftw!

adding to yr numbers and comparisons, to note you are comparing a more washed garment with a OW [which will always shrink a little in my experience] which will only add drama to the variance: the OW measurements for your jacket from mcfly are this: "Size 44 Shoulder width 51.5 cm Width 60.0 cm Length 62.0 cm Sleeve length 61.0 cm" so the washes you have done have skimmed some bulk off... but the thrust of it remains the same: tcb still going for length in certain places whilst fw going for the grail of the true box fit [which lvc seem to do well too ... ]

re: tcb pattern would def say the jump up from the size 48 to the 50 [which looks to be the one you are drawing from] is marked... 

for the 40/42/44/46/48 key numbers [for sleeve and 'dress length'] remain static but then it seems to leap. up when crossing the rubicon to the sz.50 [which seems to be a statistical expansion into oversize 'big boy fit'... I'd be happy with the 46 or 48, but those 50 number do look 'epic' ]

the shoulder size as oversize def. chimes with the epic shoulders of the 'viktor's voice' 213 jacket which had huge shoulders [and massively wide arms too] but also massive 67cm overall length... a shorter length but 20s styling is indeed most welcome

no experience with other tcb jackets except the s40, which def. has wide arms [but also only 1 panel construction so no taper just a straight tunnel]

here's the shot of the 20s jacket [at sz.38 I think, sz.40+ are t-backs] that seems to suggest pretty big arm widths... but I reckon the 48 wouldn't work for your chest constraint and agreeing that the 50 is too much...

and this is ryo wearing an over-sized fit in a sz.48 - sleeves look generous there too...

off topic; but looking at the clutch cafe site on their warehouse type 1 dd-2001 [sold out] - that also seems to go with the 20s collars and rounded pocket flap [even though they are listing it as 30s/40s...]

the numbers clutch give for this one [it seems to be on the warehouse site too, but no measurements]

here are the numbers hinoya provide for their stock of warehouse 20s model [but seems to be raw numbers... check the sz.42 sleeve!]

seems like there is a 20s-era type 1 rush post ww2 era overload [or am I just not aware enough of the shifting type 1 tides...]?

good to know!

btw ... I happily wear a 48 in their s40s jacket, whilst fitting a 44 in lvc type 1, so their higher 40s numbers in jackets don't necessarily translate to 38=M, 40=L etc... the chest seems to be the spot that is narrowest, so working from there makes sense [normally I go from shoulders, but the chest seems like a good place to work from with this...]

looks like they are paying attention to the shorter jacket requests going on... the size chart for their new pattern of type 1; [still a touch long by around 1.5cm  tbh [... edit; looking through freewheelers thread, seeing @MJF9's 1927 getting reposted; looked up their sizing; seems around 0.5 cm difference in their lengths; but fw doing a truer box shape; these numbers from tcb still hedging towards a mildly tubular box ... ]

...am approving of the new [older style] collar shape  ...

an image for cross reference re; collar and curved pocket flap [from denimseeker's draft book, in turn taken from mushroom vintage store...] - listed as a c.1928 version

32 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Is the dog (Snoopy?) wearing a Filson vest and Mr Freedom bandana?

looks liek it!

been away awhile, have come back to quite the page! 

CONGRATS

to the winners

and to all who made the comp. the happy shiny place that it has been! 

here's to wearing good jeans now and in the future!

23 hours ago, smoothsailor said:

Excellent @bartlebyyphonics, it doesn’t really matter how you cuff, or layer etc, it’s all well balanced.

you pull your pants higher up when you don’t cuff it?

11 hours ago, smoothsailor said:

Aiming for the granddad steez

no name hat, baracuta , gifted sweater, lee, vans

 

oh Yass! what a Harrington!

and generally my pants stay where there are, regardless of cuff age...

^ most excellent!

15 hours ago, busterthehuman said:

I thought of it odd to ask him 'how do you know?' instead of just taking his word for it. 

Asking is never impolite, if a seller claims it is they have something to hide... If someone can demonstrate the reality of a claim in my experience they never take umbrage but happily share concrete markers that define that thing... 

seconded on the Alfred Sargent  ... got married in one of their Derbys very similar to those trickers above ... here is their cap toe Oxford which is a neater affair than the viberg above... grenson 'g1' line does a decent variation too

if feely formal proper proper dress shoes are wholecuts... the alfred sargent 'cuthbert' version, church's [who seem to have jacked their prices up a whole new notch of silly] version...

and yes; worn Cheaney plenty enough to recommend... 

never had this trouble... worn four different pairs...

2 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Shout out to Redwing also as a sleeper. I mean, I know they're good shoes, but I picked up a pair of Postmans from the outlet awhile ago. I have more expensive stuff but honestly, those are great, good looking shoes and from a value perspective one of the best things I've got, and I go to those much more than I'd expected to when I picked them up. Sometimes a label is ubiquitous for a good reason. 

^ unironically, this...

2 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

Rather than say why I don’t like some other brands, I’d rather just concentrate on what I know fits me best and gives me a wide choice.

^ and very much this... 

32 minutes ago, aho said:

Throwing a few jeans on the community sale thread shortly...

^ and expectantly this... looks like a lot of life left in that pile...

16 hours ago, JMS said:

@smoothsailor NSYNC circa 2000. Ain't nobody wearing this stuff anymore. But there are similar motifs found today. 

^ lol, yup

see some who tried the '00s comeback early... Vetements c.2016 for ss2017 collection bringing back noughties velour trackies via Juicy Couture, also doing fairly decent apron dress in collaboration with Carhartt in same collection...

and in terms of Champion sweats return, they were in on that early on too...

plus from same collection, another Champion look...

I'd def. say the youngers around this way are still mining the skaggy polyester big jeans '90s vibe and yet to fully grab the gel laden peacockery found in the '00s NSync toolkit...

14 hours ago, busterthehuman said:

I dunno... sounds like something someone with kids would say.. hahah.

interesting film about a world with no children if you haven't seen it...

but then again, this book has interesting premise about the heteronormative assumption that children are the bedrock and endpoint of social activity / the social bond

certainly '#save the children' has been used to perverted ends by pizzagate and Qanon conspiracy theorists [enough to make one question any knee jerk reaction to children as metaphor of innocent future in current popular discourse, let alone the weaponised use of 'family values' in Thatcher/Reagan/Jesse Helms era ...]

& @Double 0 Soul - this book on mushrooms that has been doing the 'anthropocene' critical theory rounds

& @CSL - look great; really nice post wash, and really good with a good donkey puncher...

I understand no wearing shoes indoors [and keeping boots in an elevated position to avoid lockdown puppy chew damage is my guess] ... b-b-but what about the indoor wearing of a hat b'gad!

[I do keep shoes near desk as strange object-fetish at times: at certain times can only type when wearing certain shoes, but hey... and I do type this wearing a cap, indoors, but I do think, akin to @JMS the boots look like they might be being prepped for becoming-flowerpot treatment...]

agreeing with the above; leather doesn't shrink (but rather stretches out, perhaps some arms lose length as the inner elbow creases set in) so is one of the few things I would get more fitted rather than oversized and draping... 

2 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

‘Excellent spots work’? My arse it is …

posted in excitement more than with an eye to rigour sirrah...

forgot to post this 'kidney' belt spotting too...

edit: also, to be sure, also on my mind for wobbly biker studs meets canonical experimental film; the opening and ending credits for Kenneth Anger's Scorpio Rising is perhaps of thread relevance, even if tangentially...

will be watching this one from the side-lines, but wishing the competition and those who take part all the best; they look like a great pair!

and then, pardon me if this is old hat, and is spamming from Rin Tanaka's 'Motorcycle Jacket's...' book; just some images that I think are worth sharing...

a portrait of the beloved man and men of Buco...

more of the tie-n-jacket advert combos... as far from Marlon or Ramones as one might get...

some stud work in honour of the sterling work of @Duke Mantee

and then a medley of d-pockets across the mid-century for jollies...

having spammed the waywt thread with my sears and my aero, just thought to post some leather details...

from the sears 'the leather shop' - presumably 70s or 80s piece; great fit, terrible treated and crinkly/scaly leather... buttery shinki it is not... but heavyweight and easy wearing...

and then; the aero leather 'everyman' a more 40s half-belt style; lower priced due to using up mis-matching grained leather in more of a multi-panel piece; great quality for the price point (less than 25% of a real mc-coy etc); but definitely a fit for the gaijin husky-boi: trim shoulders, but big expanse for any midriff to expand into (pretty a triangle but very much in the opposite direction to a motorcycle jacket which is trim in waist and expansive in shoulder)... quite bulky in front; hopefully wear will make it drop a little [but not holding my breath]... this apparently was the proto-type, made in mismatching grain 'jerky' horsehide [with a scratching to leather on one arm that would not be acceptable on a full priced piece...] - sold as a midweight leather it has definite presence... I'd struggle to wear their full weight front quarter horsehide

1 hour ago, Spiraltoy said:

In what way do they announce the winners? Sorry if this has been talked about before.

It would also be nice to see the contestants that haven’t posted here as well! Mostly thinking of the many participants from Japan.

@volvo240thebest is best placed to answer; if I remember; ryo was going to make a post on the web-page of the entries on the tcb website: I don't know if that is when rankings will come to light...