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bartlebyyphonics

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Posts posted by bartlebyyphonics

  1. On 7/15/2022 at 4:09 PM, Hopethisoneisnttaken said:

    Two months. Two washes. Not much has changed yet. All in all I’m pretty disappointed about several things in these jeans. First and foremost being the fit. The seat area is very slim and is a lot less comfortable than I expected. It looks like other brands like warehouse and ym factory did the cut a bit different and made this area wider than Buzz did, but that’s only by looking at pictures. The other thing is that I had already re-sewed all three fly buttons and both front pockets tore at the bar tack area (perhaps from the slimness of the seat area?). The fabric however is quite interesting, especially being as light wight as it is, and functions quite well in the 30+ c summer we have here. 
     

     

    191DDF57-C045-4042-929A-800AB41748EA.jpeg

    E12C7999-7341-4743-BDD6-B89EA5ABBC9C.jpeg

    having tried on the biggest size they make I can concur; these come up slim all round; a pity; I would love a pair... but no dice...

  2. On 9/1/2022 at 5:28 PM, Dr_Heech said:

    Yes my first thought was similar, with a jacket/blouse of the same era being short. But it also looks like a belt may have been used and maybe that's the reason (?) If it was a chore coat or longer garment, maybe that's the reason for the belt loops having faded (?)

     

    I think you're right: a second belt would abrade the belt loops whilst protecting the rest of the fabric...

    looking fwd to yr 20s 506...

    also: great pick up @Sympathy-For-The-Denim - looks smart!

  3. @julian-wolf - thanks for that; sorry that the pockets are not the dream! I was wondering if there was a Hawaiian cowboy / military denim shirt cross-over that sun surf was mining! looking fwd to the next years update! interested in hearing on the palaka as I think it is the nearest to the lvc triple pleat they made in gingham / soft cloth that is still in circulation... [in my memory hellers cafe may also have done a cloth blouse, but more dogtooth than gingham...] ; but as ever; impeccable collection [inc. the tender 900], worn well... 

  4. 8 hours ago, Mtvare said:

    The waists all seem to be an inch or more oversized, which - coupled with the high rise and the stretching tendencies of TCB denim - suggests sizing down a fair bit. I'd be keen on a pair of TCB looser than my 20s but not sure I'd get that if I had to size down to 31...

    iirc with the various comps. there has been a lot of blood, indigo, tears etc. shed over tcb sizing charts esp re; waist sizing...

    ... to which I repeat, the three pairs I have, after 18 months wear, washing, shrink, stretch, repeat; generally end up at their tag size; ie my pairs tagged at 38 waist end up 38" as are my w.36 which are now around 36" [maybe a little under] ...

    imo sizing down generally ends in tears; going to size, esp. w. a cinch is generally happiness...

    in more specific regards to yr comment; do compare their sizing charts; waist sizes run the same for 20s jeans and new 30s jeans...

    20s jeans...

    image.thumb.png.90895e66be948af43cde424945890296.png

    the new 37s... [waist is the mostly same [with a .5cm tolerance] but thigh and fr.rise bigger...]

    image.thumb.png.375a27a57e56506f047a5ef6dccb0f75.png

     

    4 hours ago, NilsLW said:

    Whatever it is that TCB is doing they’re doing it right. The new 30’s jacket looks amazing.

    for me: I am liking the big front jacket pocket of the 30s [and stitch overlap] very much; the dress length; less so; but it is giving us all options between around 62cm and 65cm between the 20s and 30s new models of jacket; I am very appreciative of this approach.

    edit: the other thing I appreciate, whilst their jeans pricing are creeping into the same orbit as warehouse [though still not as much], their jacket prices generally remain the same price as their jeans rather than a good 11,000 yen more... nor sure how they manage that... 

  5. looks like the new 30s jacket and jeans are both up on their store-site now...

    [not sure it is 'open' yet as it says 'sold-out' - presuming not actually taking orders as yet]

    on a quick look through numbers;

    looks like the jacket matches the jeans; giving them two new type ones; one boxier, but lighter denim [the 20s model discussed last page] and one heavier denim but longer body [with a body same-is length as their 40s & 50s]; which gives them four different type 1's in their roster: a 213, a 20s, a 30s, a 40s [a tip of the fedora to fête them for that feat...]

    in terms of jeans; the numbers (which are always to be taken with a pinch of salt iirc) suggest mid-to large-ish rise (they say so explicitly in their description, numbers wise, a 33 front rise for the w.38 I always look at) but a full leg shape [a 38cm thigh is what they claim for that size] ... both the rise and thigh [thus fullness of leg] seems a smidge more generous than the 20s [but the rise not as huge as the s40s]

    the fits they show both seem on the generous side [which I approve of] but sharing this one as I think it show the rise to thigh ratio that is going on...

    image.thumb.png.b7047cb1c3b35e4c448afe5ac9ecd91b.png

  6. thanks for the link @sven

    20s def. wider through the whole leg than the 50s...

    def. wondering about the '37 shape they will do... the lvc '37 is quite trim [and the denim, whilst lovely is a tad to thin for my liking for such a slimmer fit] as I think is the warehouse model [which has chunkier fabric nonetheless] ... as a standard, I liked the fit, cut and top block of the sugar cane '37 model that @JMS posted in that thread very much ...

    in terms of back pockets they [tcb] look to be doing that nicely; to repost from the blog and to compare to other comparable models:

    image.png.9cef4431788a0829609fc267b7bc95f1.png

     

    sugar cane's current m.i.a. version...

    image.png.feabb5a935803fddc77b3ecd1943c364.png

     

    warehouse dd-1004 [which seem to be going full csf-style in terms of 'tulip' waist band area, and the angle of the pocket]

     

    image.thumb.png.dac09e9f0de4016e2d79ae1ca1e228e5.png

     

    then the full count version... [cutting out hissing at the back...]

     

    image.thumb.png.326fddc0cc1e62b1792a218659ea2c25.png

     

    and then the original piece TCB are drawing from again:

    image.png.925e903529c2813134ffbdb94b1b7dd0.png

  7. feel like I am spamming their ig feed onto the board, so forgive me, but this was image hidden in the 'loom visit' post recently... been looking for a heavier weight '37 cut...

    image.thumb.png.72e5588d22a3c517196b0e9d1149cc16.png

    image.png.959b65ef6e10a81906f0e44c78fdd6d8.png

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