tooth

Kind of crazy that that post is a paid partnership with IH.

Awesome write up @beautiful_FrEaK. I have a lot of respect for someone who takes the risk and starts making jeans (or goes out on their own for any endeavor). The denim, construction and fit look quite nice. I personally love the ‘pizza’ tab. If you saw these in a shop would you be inclined to buy a pair?

Completely agree with the topblock of the 601XX 42 vs the OA SOA03XX WWI. I've been rotating those pairs (alongside SC's 1946 and S1943 'super denim collectibles') and the OA's definitely have the slimmest topblock, and most 'regular' feeling denim, but very nice at that as is typical with OA. Been fun wearing pairs based on the same era, but with such different detailing and denim.

@Broark Awesome 👍 Do you have a favorite pair / denim?

Looking at your @yung_flynn comparison photo, it's interesting that the 1947 pair has lightning and roping on the top edge, but really no puckering on the outside seams under the rivets. The Warehouse pair below (not sure which model, but maybe one that you mention?) has puckering on the outside seams, but no roping or lightning from the top edge. I can confirm this with the pairs I have. From left to right Warehouse S1000XX, Denime 220A, Warehouse 800 and Warehouse 1947 Duck Digger - all in different states of wear (obviously). The denims used for the pocket and coin pocket in S1000XX, 220A and 800 have denim facing the same direction and show what I mention above as having puckering on outside edges, but a pretty flat top edge with no roping / lightning. The 1947 (although mine are hardly worn) has perpendicular overlapping denim (as you also state) and I can see some tension from the top edge that may lead to the lightning and roping. I think @Dr_Heech is right that shrinking plays a huge role; as the denim shrinks in different directions and pulls at the coin pocket differently throughout, it's going to inherently cause different results when it comes to fading, puckering, roping, lightning, etc.

Seems like there’s a lot more than just orientation of denim direction that leads to the ‘lightning’ effect, but that’s just a guess. Thinking about denim weave, tension during weave, thread thickness, stitch thickness used when stitching coin pocket to main pocket (where stitches land, if there’s a subtle crease in coin pocket denim), etc, all may contribute.

I love how you brought attention the workers, the people behind the denim, the core of the company and what has been lost with the shuttering of the factory. I wonder, if you had been into denim at the time, how that would have manifested in your images. What would have been the focus - the people, the machines, the denim, or something else entirely. Always interesting how what we are drawn to at any one moment, consumes our eye and the way we reflect back; it’s great that you saw the humanity.

Definitely dry clean. Rayon does not do well being put through the washing machine or dryer…. The fabric will be compromised and the shape of the shirt will change. I made the mistake of putting one of my gf’s (soon to be wife) shirts in the wash; it didn’t turn out well and a replacement was bought. Wasn’t a Sugarcane shirt, but pretty sure the wash wouldn’t have cared and taken more care if it had been.

Glad you found something that works for you! Here’s my clown outfit for the day (😉). Flathead THC / Freewheelers 1942 / Drakes / Alden.

If you haven’t already, do a Google image search on that image you posted; I think you’ll find some other boots by other manufacturers that look similar and may still be available.

For me it’s #2 (with a grain of salt).

Goonies never say die!

Full Count price drop Hopefully this link works…

@LazyS did the ‘42 shrink at all?

Here in the US, Brogue stocks Belafonte. I was able to visit Brogue a few weeks ago and it was great being able to handle the clothes - Belafonte is a brand I’ve checked out on numerous occasions through the Brogue site, but haven’t seen too much of online otherwise… I particularly like the Ragtime 1890 Aged Canvas trousers, but not sure I’d be able to pull them off - they are quite wide. The other pieces Brogue had were also very intriguing. The fabrics are all quite nice, and the general aesthetic is unique.

I’m going to be in Scotland (Edinburgh - 4 days, Oban - 2 days, Glasgow - driving through from Oban back to Edinburgh) 5/31 - 6/7 and wondering if anyone has recommendations on things to check out that are off the beaten path: castles, gardens, breweries, distilleries, yarn shops… any and all ideas would be greatly appreciated!

That makes sense. So is that why you mention you take the same size in all FW - even if the waist is oversized - to stay as true as possible how that cut/pattern was intended?

@Broark that deck jacket is awesome. I tried it on recently when I was in CA and have been thinking about it since. Nice pick up overall!

I went with a 32”, but also asked Speedway for some advice. I’m ok with them being roomier in the top block and overall (in fact, I upsized on a purchase I made at the beginning of the year and have grown to really like the (anti) fit…). Which leads me to something I’ve been thinking about since a trip I took to Japan back in January of 2023 - and I’ve been wondering if any of you have had a similar experience. With the exception of Fullcount, every shop I visited - Freewheelers, warehouse (multiple locations), flat head, Sapporo Base (when I was in Sapporo), etc - the shop employee was trying to get me to size up 1-2-3 sizes from what I would typically wear/buy. And I noticed, in my opinion, that most of the shop workers were wearing jeans well above what their actual size would/should be… I could tell from the way the top block folded back on itself and had that kind of undulation in the fabric between pockets and fly and from the rear a quite saggy bottom. I would say they just wore their jeans very differently and had an overall different idea of how jeans should fit/be worn. When I’ve tried on jeans in the US and EU, it always seems the opposite where a shop employee is trying to get me to size down because of stretch (especially 10-15 years ago…). Dealing with temporary discomfort for a ‘perfect fit’ (whatever that means) when I was in my early 30s feels a lot different now that I’m 43 - and I have a much better sense of how I like jeans to fit now. In any case, I found this curious, and like I said, something I’ve been thinking about and considering since that trip. Is this an East vs West thing and our general idea around aesthetics? Or did the move towards ‘true’ size just seem to take hold in Japan earlier than the US? Or, I’m I just over thinking? This probably belongs in the general discussion, so please feel free to move, or I can delete…

@Dr_Heech @Broark thanks to you both!

@Broark @Dr_Heech did you both go with your typical FW size for the 1942 jeans? I wear a 32” in FW, but the charts I’ve seen have the 1942 running a bit large? Thanks in advance!

@julian-wolf do you have pics of your m-43 Lofgren’s? I bet they look great based on how you wear stuff. I’ve tried on the m-43 multiple times, but something about them just feels off to me as well. I wear a 9.5 US and have tried 8.5 and 8 in the m-43. The 8 felt better than the 8.5, but still something felt off/awkward; I want to find a pair that fits so I’ll keep trying as I think they’re great looking boots... I do have the Lofgren Chelsea, which I like a lot, but they don’t see a ton of wear (not sure why, but I always choose other boots). @Alec Leamas make sure to check return policies!

😂😂😂 thought this was a joke, but it isn’t. Wolsro…

I wonder if Leftfield NYC was inspired by the Headlight Overalls graphic at all.

I’ve gone TTS (32), 1 size up (33) and 2 sizes up (34) between ~5 different pairs and the 2 sizes up has definitely been the best fitting, but has also been my favorite cut - the recent SOA03XXD-0823. To be a bit more clear, my waist measures @ 32”