indigoeagle

I got the 51s in 33 1.5 years ago when I was still looking for slimmer fits. They fit me fine everywhere except for the hips (waist stretched enough to be fine). So kind of "stress whiskers". The 34 would probably fit me very well everywhere. But since I'm now into more comfortable wider fits I got them in 36. And they fit very well with a belt. No matter, how much research there will always be an element of trial and error.

An amazing "comeback". Thanks

I didn't know, what a gusset is in German, so I looked it up: it's called "Zwickel". Had never heard that word before. There is also a kind of beer called "Zwickl", which is a test siphoning off, a sample of the young beer, before filtration, which is a beer in its own right now. In this case Zwickl refers to the tap through which the beer is siphoned off. Not sure, if these two words are related.

Did you also have a pair of the WH DD 47s? And if so, how would you compare them denim and fit wise? Also interested to hear about the difference in fit between the Denime 47s and 54s.

Talking about the Black Klondike leather. I just saw this pic of the 9870, which is the Irish Setter Round Toe in Klondike. The owner had the crepe wedge sole changed to a Beckman style. They have about ten years of wear. In the Beckmans of ten years or so ago there was also a black version, the 9014 in that Featherstone leather.

Interesting. So for the 14.5oz it's basically all the same denim. And that would be Texas cotton, right? Like stated here For the newer wider models (FN D 110, 111, 112) it says Zimbabwean cotton here and also here. And Selfedge states that the model D111 is left hand twill. All the D11.versions have the suffix XXX on the patch.

Anyone familiar with Cruxdeluxe? They have good looking boots. But I'm still unsure about the sizing for the Boondockers.

Apparently the Klondike is shinier than the Black Prairie and the contrast is also bigger with the Klondike between the black and brown.

What about the "dosha buri"? Do you think it's the same Pioneer denim- which has always been famous for vertical fading -and they want to stress this or has the denim been reformulated so to speak in order to amplify this effect?

Is anyone knowledgeable on the black Red Wing leathers? For engineers the main ones seem to be RW Chrome and Klondike. The fades look a bit different. 2268 from the 90s with Chrome leather The 2966 with Klondike leather. The 9060 is a flat toe Beckmans, also with Klondike. It was recently offered in US stores and last year in some European shops in relation with the Munich store anniversary. But it's mostly sold out now. It has been available in Japan for many years. I think, it was also RW Japan, that had developed it. Mr Suzuki of Two Monkeys and Ol Shanks amongs other had a hand in it, if I remember correctly. Perhaps we'll see it in the European shops next year. Not sure, how popular it would be. It also looks nice worn.

Does anyone know the difference between the current (I think) FN-3005 (with the bandana) with the dosha buri suffix and the FN-3500 N1 XXX? The first one has this patch and the second one this The first one has lemon coloured arcs and both lemon and tobacco stitching, the arcs on the N1XXX are in tobacco and the stitching looks to me like tobacco and light tobacco. Also the first is O/W and the second N/W. Is the denim the same? The cut? Any experience how much the N1XXX will shrink? I've got the first one here in 36 and 38. I find they fit rather small. It took a bit of effort to close the 36. Also not much space in the thighs. I find both denims very nice. The first O/W a bit fuzzy, quite dark, some thicker warps already visible. For the stated 14.5 oz quite comfy. The N/W is a bit ligher, blue greyish. Not sure, if it will the same as the other after a wash.

Their standard one is the XX denim (47, 51, etc.). With original here I think they mean that it has been developed exclusively by them and for them. So, 22 jacket - 33 jacket and 37 jeans all use the same red cast "original" denim

I found this description at McFly for the 506XX '22: "The fabric is the original 14 oz indigo denim. Compared to the classic 1947 model 506XX, this indigo denim is darker and has a reddish color."

Wow So we got in those years: 1937 XXC- red cast denim 1942- WWII denim 1943- "standard" denim, OD HBT pocket bags 1944-45- WWII denim, OD HBT pocket bags 1945- WWII denim, red (not sure, if several colours) buffalo check flannel pocket bags 1947- "standard" denim I think, FW hasn't released a 1946 pair (yet)?? Edit: I've just seen, that there was also a 1946 pair. Released in March 2020. It has the same fabric as the 1947 one. But with all yellow stitching, iron buttons with clear finish vs. the later white painted ones and also with buffalo check flannel pocket bags but in a mustard colour.

So, the 43 is standard denim. And the other WWII models- 1944-45 with the OD HBT pockets and the 1945 with the flannel pockets- are the slubbier denim (stronger vertical fading), same as the recent 1942?

They really are fading very fast. I haven't worn them much. But they're probably my most faded pair of the <than two years' ones. Indigo neoprene suit?

That could be the answer. Possibly a teaser for upcoming models? After all they could release the same range as LVC. So very likely a 1937 model, perhaps 47, 55, 66. And why not 51 and 53.

I'm quite happy with my Julius Tart Opticas. Also Harman Optical. Tart Optical Arnel are also very nice.

Could the top pair (you're referring to the top pic on page 6, no?) be a Sugar Cane version like a prototype for in-house to compare how close everything is to the original? I know it has arcs and a red tab. But the red tab is quite high. And the leather patch looks a bit different than the Levi's one, but it's difficult to see.

Here is the new catalogue: https://bookshelf.wisebook4.jp/html/toyoenterprise/55082/#1

I also find the brown cotton very interesting. On the Mushman blog there is an interesting write up on the set up. Apparently the jacket fits a size bigger, but for the pants due to the higher rise he recommends to size up. He is also selling them in non/wash but recommends to customers to try on the washed versions he has in his shop. I'm wondering, if the brownish cotton is a different breed or whether the white is simply the brown one bleached. And that step was omitted during the war.

These Cushman special pocket tees also look quite nice. Sewn with the Union Specials 52800 and 39500 as well as the Singers 81 and 71. They also have these openings on the hem to hang them up for drying on a ship.

Makes sense. In the SC catalogue one can see it.

I couldn't really see the arcs in the video. Does the 42 early period model still have stitched arcs? The pockets of the 45 can be seen around 12:20. I can't see stitched arcs. So they were probably still painted and had faded away. Some points of the late period 45 model: The coin pocket The direction of the pocket part (correct term?) is the same direction as the fabric of the legs. The tag with S501XX and the rare A. The 42 early period model (April to August 42): still crotch rivet rivets are copper plated iron (copper was need for ammunition/weapon production) (1937 model has smashed copper rivets for concealed rivets) On the flasher accordingly it changed from (concealed copper rivets in 1937 to concealed pocket rivets) Back of the buttons copper plated Black plated iron buckle Before this model with the flasher (apparently only 2 in the world, I guess he is not referring to 1942 models but to those with a flasher still on) was found it was assumed that the jeans were from 1937 or 1941. But on the flasher it says 1942. Interestingly the fabric underneath on the table is very similar to that of the pocket bags of the LVC 1944 made in Japan model.