mondo

I have a couple of the Permanent Style / Allevol white t-shirts which are rather short and boxy – although loop wheeled (allegedly), they have been recut at the the sides so they have seams and are somewhat tapered (i.e., not as boxy). This was the P.S. attempt to arrive at a t-shirt that sat a bit higher on the back of the neck and had a vintage fit without being too shapeless and flappy at the hem.. with some success, I think. Not sure how it compares to the usual Allevol fare, but these shirts have seen more frequent wear than many other Japanese tees (Full Count, Dubbleworks, Flat Head, Iron Heart, etc, etc, much as I like all these) so.. yeah. Disclaimer: I have had several beers

Mötley Sküe

Hi @indigoeagle, today I have mostly been wearing the hickory painter pants from Orslow – nice washed indigo stripes (don't think I'll get the chance to put much visible wear of my own on them); not sure of the fabric weight on these but I'd guess 11oz. They feel quite substantial, but I think the softness of the "used" wash makes the fabric seem heavier. In my opinion, Orslow excels when it comes to painter pants, chore coats and denim/chambray oxford shirts. And their reverse sateen stuff.. that's close to the original military issue.

You'll be wanting the 18-18 1/2, which I think is the current XL. According to History Preservation, BR revised their shirt sizing a while back so that everything is effectively one size smaller. 18 equates to a FW 17 (I have a Neal chambray for comparison, as well as a few other designs). Perhaps intentionally, the work shirt sleeves are quite short – the cuffs will not entirely cover a watch, for example, or protrude from a jacket sleeve. I generally wear them rolled up. Also, they're prone to coming unbuttoned at points of stress – the buttonholes seem to stretch more on these shirts than the average chambray. Having said that, the character of the chambray is more "three dimensional" than just about any other work shirt I own (FW, Papa Nui, Homestead, Orslow, Sassafras, probably some others I've forgotten). The Gibson shirts may well have slightly different measurements.

I have pairs of both, and they're interchangeable in terms of waist measurement – the top block of the BR's is a little more slim fitting and the leg is a couple of inches longer. The 1082 is right without any alteration (my ideal measurement is W 34" L 32"), whereas I've hemmed the BR pairs. When hemming, it's hard to get someone to preserve the wider hem and cut the leg so you'll get a nice straight edge embedded within the hem (if that makes sense) – the 1082s are fading more tastefully as a result. Once hemmed, the BR pairs do flare out just a little more for me, but it's not that noticeable. I wear them all frequently but the 1082 is definitely a Goldilocks fit for me.

^ I think past-bF fills them out nicely.. current-bF is a sleeker model – I'd maybe hem them to past length, you could still do the higher cuff but retain the option of regular-jeans-with-a-break

the 1082 is my most-worn chino – I'll go for these over my BR, Pherrow's or FW pairs (though they're all great in various ways)... perhaps it's because they're the right length for me without any need for alteration so the character of the hem can be preserved. I have a second pair just in case, but in 33 (34 is ideal for me) – they are hard to track down, good job @Talan striking while the iron is hot

feels like 90s Thom Yorke would have worn Nose.. anyone remember those? I recall a written interview where he was described as having "stepped into a pair of small hovercraft"

^ I have a brand new raw pair of those in a 33, stashed away for probably the same amount of time. I'd honestly forgotten about them – they'd be a little snug in the waist and no doubt need hemming (I seem to recall they had an unfeasibly long inseam), but maybe I can make them work. Nice job!

heh.. I had assumed the blue button was just "yep, here's where all your rep needs can be met" and moved on over to the left. Now I won't be able to stop thinking of it as : |

@Cold Summer, @Duke Mantee – I wouldn't have either of you any other way. If a topic has a recent post, it's reason to click, and has been so for years. I wish I could maintain a similar consistency through the vicissitudes..