Duke Mantee

16 hours ago, vlad_III said:

I noticed the side seam on every cut has this reverse stitch at the end. That wasn’t possible with vintage machines. Nearly all other repro brands get this part right. 

 

Backstitching has been possible on sewing machines since the late 19th century 

first time I’ve ever done this … but a couple of old design belts for @damicophilip on IG

true roughout (not suede) and buffalo

I had just enough front quarter horsehide left over to make a glasses case for the duchess. The leather is probably too soft, so I’ve reinforced it on the front inside with some Buttero leather, but she loves the colour and the fact the flesh side is buffed and sueded. Anyways …

@chicote pretty much any thread sold by leather crafts shops will be fine. A lot depends on whether you are hand sewing or machine sewing; some threads are suitable for both but then you’ll need to be wise on your needle selection.

Hand sewing with linen thread is the traditional method. Fil Au Chinois, Barbour and MeiSi are all excellent. MeiSi can be used for both hand and machine sewing with no issues.

Personally I prefer to use MeiSi or Vinymo MBT bonded polyester thread made by Nagai Yoriito … glides through holes, pulls tight and doesn’t fur up. Again the Vinymo can be used on machines.

One for Silvano on IG

Hermann Oak leather, python overlays, brass hardware set with tiger eye and turquoise, Japanese brass buckle and antique coin

6 minutes ago, chicote said:

These last couple are so beautiful and distinctive, you are really developing a unique style and executing it flawlessly. I’d love to see some more full-length shots of these newer pieces if you get the chance in the future!

Thank you

I think the last few are just indicative of suggestions that not every belt is mid brown with a plain brass buckle - that’s not being facetious but all leather goods can have some sort of personality and it’s not wrong to mix things up a bit. Your style, or someone like @cultpop 0217 demonstrates that.

I’ll see what pics I have and either post them here or DM you.

And a ‘western’ belt for JohnB

silver plated buckle set, turquoise set in nickel plated steel hardware all on Baker’s oak tanned bridle

Long wallet for John Brooklyn 

Shinki oil cordovan, Tanneries Degermann Baranil calfskin, vintage brass hardware and sterling silver chain connector.

I used the remainder to make a money clip and a key wallet

19 hours ago, MJF9 said:

I've removed as much as poss with finger nails... the issue is it's sunk into fabric... tried freezing, no joy ffs! 

Got a stain devil that does chewing gum  arriving tomorrow <fingers crossed emoji>

Use more gum - chew some then push it onto the stuff that’s stuck on your jeans and quickly peel back. The old stuff should stick to the new stuff. Same technique as trying to get sticky residue off that’s been left by sellotape - just use another bit to dab to affected area

Making ice cream for this …

1 minute ago, JDelage said:

I have a couple of Freewheeler pants that are quite a bit too wide, especially at the waist. Is it a realistic option to have them narrowed by someone like Rain at IndigoProof, or am I better off selling them?In other words, is it no big deal to take in pants at the waist for 1-2 inches, or is it going to screw up the pattern so much they'll look funky? 

Fairly straightforward for a good tailor - go for it

A second belt

for @art.directorofdogs on IG

He always pushes the boundaries - this time we’ve got a silver plated western buckle set, actually a headstall set, with silver plate and brass cowboy conchos, antique brass spots and jewel rings, 1930s glass and Alran goatskin overlays (top end stuff) all built on J&FJ Baker oak tan leather which I worked extra slow so the tallow is more or less undisturbed 

I’ve also made him a tote bag from mud cloth with Sedgwick’s 1800 oiled leather handles secured by solid copper saddlers rivets

This one is off to Hawaii

Tumbled buffalo and Japanese hardware

Just now, Dr_Heech said:

Two or three brown spots of something.

Totally forgot about these Doc - they’re looking good

35 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

There was a time when i would have contributed towards this discussion (it's a very good subject) but.. i honestly don't care anymore, that ship has sailed, i can't even feign interst..

I don’t care so much now either - too rugged for my liking

Japanese brands aren’t better - we just inhabit a place where we choose to believe that. We choose because it allows us to be part of a group.

Some Japanese products are very very good, some less so. Some American products are very good, and some American businesses are desperate to service this market sector so use Japanese materials. The same might be said of businesses in other countries including Japan, where they often use materials from other countries.

It’s interesting to hear what folk think,  and every opinion has some validity, but what I have grown to dislike about the debate is the clichéd language and the narrow range of comparisons.

I think it needs to be asked what is really meant by ‘Made in Japan’; I think the debate needs to take a broader view; I think if anyone is genuinely interested, the research should be more meaningful … and from a personal point of view, “rugged”, “raw”, “teacore” and every other related word used in that context should be subject to a word filter by the forum - cliché control if you like.

more interwar years inspiration 

https://blurred-clothing.com/collections/all

A clutch of skinny (¾”) bridle leather belts, 2 of which have full western hardware sets, for Jake and Alee

3 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

Edge creasing / border creasing?

Yeah - just creases

It’s finessing - not difficult to do but these days I’ve found most folk (around these parts) don’t want it. It’s very commonly seen on small leather goods where the edge is heated and creased to give a fine finish near the stitching line

@Broark - Neal question answered (made me sad they had to change the label though)

@indigoeagle - The catalogue is too big and too varied to say that every thread is cotton. I would suggest it’s not the case - simply because cotton isn’t always the best solution (where does this obsession come from?) but who knows? I definitely not going to go through my database to check that detail - sorry.

Bridle leather, lizard, goldstone gems, solid copper saddlers rivets and copper patina hardware