Duke Mantee

Another ‘western’ style for a customer on IG … similar to the one above for John B … but a different silver plate buckle and a black strap with the protective tallow left untouched (as best possible)

5 hours ago, MJF9 said:

Buaisou

Start a Buaisou thread?

What’s the brand?

Is that his scrotum just above his socks?

You should be ok with the 47s - that’s a permanent product.

M-41 chino might be tougher but there’s usually a few hanging around

13 hours ago, mstax said:

Wow that’s really annoying it’s so inconsistent. Guess the best thing to do is to ask the shops to measure the specific piece and send photos. Usually they are very helpful I’ve experienced.

Indeed a one wash. I’ll handwash cold from here so good to know it will not really shrink  anymore.

Was surprised by the weight of the jacket as well. Quite hefty, more so than other jackets I have and had it seems.

They more or less take the same approach but I’ve found the ‘more or less’ part can impact those who might be more sensitive to getting the right measurements (I tend not to bother too much - if it’s about right, then it is right … we’re not dealing with bespoke tailoring)

I’ve had and have dozens of FW denim items - they don’t shrink unless you boil wash them (I tried)

It’s only strange because the Japanese shops are very inconsistent with how they measure (if you look at Speedway’s size for the lined jacket it’s actually smaller than the unlined jacket) - and that’s a one wash isn’t it? It won’t shrink.

11 hours ago, mstax said:

I need some sizing advice on the 601 1947. I have a WH 1001xx heavy ounce in a size 38 which came raw and fit me perfectly now after maybe 3-4 washes. Waist measures 45 cm across which seems to be the sweet spot for me. 
 

I found the raw version of the 601 1947 in waist 38 online. The one wash version seems to be sold out at the moment. The raw version W38 measures 50 cm across. Can I expect it to shrink 10% to come in at 45 cm after a few washes? Does anyone own a 601 1947 in W38 or W36 and care to measure them? The measurements online for the one wash seem to vary quite a bit so I’m unsure to go for W38 or W36.

I’ve found that FW non-wash 601xx will always shrink to the wash size

I’ve also found the waist measurement to be as tagged

I’m not a 38 but I see no reason to think they would be any different 

On 7/19/2023 at 6:20 AM, Geeman said:

Great ts, although a little to boxy for my tastes lately 

Run less marathons like me and you’ll find boxy isn’t so bad

1 hour ago, mlwdp said:

I take it that this is Visvim?

You take it right

Four and a half thousand pounds sterling - some canvas and a scrap piece of leather … wow

If anyone is interested I’ll make one for less than 5% of that

2 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

Cool, nice pick up. Maybe some photos in the vintage denim thread for us all to lust after when you have the time mate?

 

 

Oh I don’t own them … just saying they’re the oldest I’ve never worn yet

2 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

^pre- 1954's @Duke Mantee ??

 

Yup - I’ve never worn them

These

2 hours ago, MJF9 said:

I haven't washed my washed version. My sense was the factory did the job and I wouldn't expect more shrink at 40C. 
 @Duke Mantee @Broark may know more?

I’ve never experienced much shrinkage from FW one wash denim - tightens a little but that’s about it. 

The Hermann Oak belt from the sale thread - now finished with brown burnished edges, oval holes and a fancy tail cut. Off to @coastal_file on IG

Brown Wickett & Craig strap still available 

Absolutely love this 

A couple of narrow (¾”) ring belts in Sedgwick bridle

37 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

The whole song or just the title?

The whole thing - my German is shocking

Translation by @beautiful_FrEaK

Another sunglasses case - this time for @srudy … I’m making a fancy ass tote bag from the mud cloth and the shrunken horse (I used on the little post bag) and I think I’m getting obsessed about not having any waste from a hide (or at least as little as possible so I’ve made this and some other small goods to add into the bag package

The great thing about these hides I used is the flesh side is sueded and soft as butter so absolutely ideal for things like glasses. And again I’ve stiffened up the snap side with some texon between two layers of the leather.

10 hours ago, Suitedupmon said:

Did a double take...looks familiar 

I was a little bit disappointed in that aspect - most folk ask me because they have their own idea and yours was very original. But he wanted what he wanted. Still about the most studs you can put on a belt 

Two more partially finished belts for sale - let down again by some ‘customers’ … what a fucking world. Anyways …

1. Wickett & Craig English Bridle leather in dark brown - 10-12oz weight (this particular strap is just over 4mm) and 1 ¾” or 44mm width fitted with a Japanese sand cast brass garrison buckle

2. Hermann Oak English Bridle leather in london tan (not laandaan taan) - 8-10oz weight (but again this strap is approximately 4mm) and 1 ½” or 38mm width fitted with a made in England nickel plated solid cast brass oval shaped centre bar buckle.

Both of these are fantastic heavyweight leathers, both are veg tanned and both with develop terrific patina. I’ll finish then to your desired size. £75 each - £5 post in the UK, £10 for the EU and £20 for the rest of the world

16 hours ago, vlad_III said:

I noticed the side seam on every cut has this reverse stitch at the end. That wasn’t possible with vintage machines. Nearly all other repro brands get this part right. 

 

Backstitching has been possible on sewing machines since the late 19th century 

first time I’ve ever done this … but a couple of old design belts for @damicophilip on IG

true roughout (not suede) and buffalo