chicote

@Hopethisoneisnttaken thank you! it’s all by hand, it took a few weeks of nightly work and im glad it’s over!!

Finally got around to patching the knees on my cane’s.. the right knee tore through again while i was stitching the first patch, lol

I have always loved all types of marbling and am surprised to see so many people against it! I’m curious if anyone can elaborate on their position a bit more? for me, I have always loved the way a big “marble” crease imprints itself into the fabric, it’s like the spirit of the fabric fighting through the indigo that’s smothering it… plus it’s usually totally absent in artificially faded jeans but quite common in handmade & naturally dyed fabrics and I feel is a characteristic I strongly associate with the latter. It’s the main reason I love tender’s standard denim so much… it just longs to speak its mind regardless of what the wearer does to it… it’s amazing!!!

Tender 129 is an excellent choice, highly recommended!!

@lobster_for_lunch I wonder if that’s from the set of my beautiful launderette, one of my favorite movies of all time!!

Im down!!! I would love for them to do something old and obscure like a levis 333 or rly early bluebells… but I trust the pair they have in development is gonna be cool no matter what!

thanks for sharing the post!! i'm not really on ig so it's nice to see photos. i mailed the jeans back several weeks ago, and am really happy they get to be on display in their studio. as for what pair they might have for the next contest, i guess we'll have to see what jeans they plan to produce down the line. the post made it sound like they want someone from sufu to take the lead on organizing, so maybe we could make suggestions on a pair we'd like & try and drum up interest from there?

shred i'm in seattle n would be happy to repair your jeans if you'd like! i don't have an industrial darning machine but have gotten pretty good results with my 40s singer. let me know!

^That's what it looks like to me as well. I had puzzled over measurements I'd seen on the 125 as the rise looked hardly different than the 132, but again, sometimes subtleties of cut can give two garments w similar measurements entirely different fits...

happy birthday to both of you!!

Those look great!! Thanks for documenting your process and sharing it here, it's inspiring.

@mpukas sorry bout that, i realized i've had my jacket for close to 10 years now and figure they might not make the same style anymore. this one is sort of close, maybe?

@mpukas tenderloin might be a good brand to check out, i have an excellent carhartt repro of theirs.

I am curious, what leathers do you all have & like in your black engineers? I'm now at the 2-year point with my CXL Flat Head engineers and have to say i wish i just saved up for horsehide. There was a sweet spot about 6mo-1yr in where they looked good, but kind of stopped aging gracefully and went straight to looking kinda thrashed. cxl seems a bit too dainty for a pair of boots.. I don't know if that's why many here don't prefer it but i should have listened! It reminds me of a philosophy ive been trying to put into practice re broarks dilemma... when faced w a bunch of different options, it's often worth the extra money / time etc to try and get the thing that you really find perfect, or that tugs at your heart a little more than the others... if you don't you'll end up with a very nice thing that you'll only have a superficial relationship with & maybe won't be able to commit to as easily. Of course, things can grow on you with time, but i think you can never go wrong putting in the extra labor to get the boots you won't have a problem keeping with you forever.

I've been using non-smart-phones for several years now, and off social media since 2020, yet every time i try to wean myself off of the internet I always end up relapsing within 48 hours ... always something needs to be researched, or i want to check whether it will rain later, or i'm expecting an email from somebody, or just plain bored and lonely (which i think is the root cause of so much of our internet addiction), and watching a youtube video or coming onto this forum is so much easier than taking a walk, reading a book, finishing a painting, calling a friend ... yet ultimately so much less satisfying, so much less stimulating for the mind and destructive to the spirit. I am convinced it has a huge part to play in how little genuine creativity exists in the world today, why movies are so often re-makes and trends are usually just re-hashings divorced from their original context... and so on. But it goes deeper than that, of course. I'm reading a book right now called Short Nights of the Shadow Catcher, about the photographer Edward S. Curtis (1868-1952), who dedicated his life to the photographic, literary and auditory preservation of the indigenous cultures of North America. It's really a well-written history, and I find myself constantly reminded, painfully so, that it was barely 100 years ago in which this story takes place, that this was just two or three generations before most of us were born and contemporaneous with most of the clothing we spend so much time talking about here. In 1905, Curtis sends letters around the country for weeks asking if anyone has a reliable map of the Arizona Territory before taking a trip there on horseback, lugging hundreds of pounds of camera equipment and boxes of glass plates; later that year he takes a days-long train ride to New York City to physically knock on the doors of millionaires asking for money to finance his project; he grew up in a small cabin he helped his father build from trees they felled on their property outside of Seattle; and his photos are absolutely incredible, taking hours of careful posing, sometimes after days of waiting for the exact right sorts of weather and light to fit his vision for his image, developed himself in a studio lit by kerosene lamps, sometimes working for days on a single image, processing print after print, fine-tuning the chemistry to get the exposure and detail exactly how he wants. There's something about such a long-term project, under such material circumstances, that I believe really inspired people to take such great pride in their work, to insist on perfection at a time when there wasn't even a public education system in place to set the standard for "good enough". The older I get, and there are obviously many reasons for this, but the older I get the more I really do sympathize with the older generations' common lament that we have it so easy today; but beneath the envy embedded in that statement I also see pity, and real, true sadness for the many things we have lost in spite of what we have gained today in our safety and comfort. (And reading the above posts, and the many thousands of research papers and articles about the millions of environmental toxins we've introduced into the world today, I wonder how "safe" and "comfortable" we will really end up being.) I'm grateful for the perspective we have here on this forum, as people who I believe largely are aware of the benefits of things coming slowly, carefully, being made "perfectly", of the preservation of tradition, and the intangible benefits that come from taking pride in our work, even at the cost of money and time. I think of how odd and rare these qualities are today, to the point that (as I remember) @shredwin_206 receives compliments from old-timers on the jobsite about how nicely he dresses for work, even though he is just using his (comparatively nice, expensive, functional) clothing for the purpose it was originally created; and how @Double 0 Soul approaches his woodworking projects, carefully and meticulously planning and executing a design for a pergola or a tool stand far more than would be necessary for it to just perform its basic function, using traditional techniques that might have been standard decades in the past but today seem outmoded and extravagant. Obviously neither of these approaches make "sense" to the logic of today; why not just glue 'n' screw and be done with it, or wear some $29 dickies and a thrifted t-shirt to work since you're gonna be thrashing your clothes anyway? I think a major difference really comes about as a result of being aware that you are continuing a process that was developed by your ancestors... that it took thousands of years of working with wood to develop the techniques used in the construction of your tool stand, and that your continued employment of those techniques is what will allow for the generations that follow you to learn from and build upon them. What I think is really destructive about the modern world, and particularly the Internet, is how easily and completely it can divorce us entirely from that sense of continuity, to the point where the past becomes something of an abstraction rather than an inseparable part of the present, something literally necessary for things existing the way they do today. I think of Curtis, who was inspired to take on his project largely for the same reasons. How destructive, how brutal, the early industrial age seems when compared to the Navajo woman he encounters on that desert trip, grinding plants and minerals to hand-dye individual strands of spun cotton for a blanket, each colour with a spiritual or cultural significance, each design carrying a specific message, and the weaving technique itself developed over the course of thousands of years of word-of-mouth ancestral teachings, (originally brought to them by the Pueblo people). For Curtis at this time, the surviving indigenous cultures he worked to understand represented a different sort of sophistication: a deeply understood unity between humans and nature, an awareness of the spiritual significance present in every action, and a reverence for the unfolding of history, which was constantly spoken about and referenced in the teachings of long-disappeared ancestors. He wrote that it wasn't that the indigenous people he spoke to were incapable of participating in industrial society; it was that many of them recognized the world that was imposing itself upon them had lost the tack of what they felt humans were originally meant to be part of: the continually expanding, developing, unfolding natural and spiritual forces that were part of the creation of everything around them, something far grander and more mystical than the myopic and self-centered early capitalism that beckoned with its factories, steam engines, cameras and bombs. Curtis spent much of his life and work softly underlining these messages in his work, though I'm sure he knew that he couldn't do anything to stop the ongoing march of society. Anyway, what this all has to do with modern technology today, and the Internet -- well, I think it's largely the same battle beneath the surface. It's a struggle to retain the meaning and value that we get from being intentional and purposeful in every aspect of our daily lives. And I think there are many things required for that to exist that aren't possible, or at least easily accessible, today -- an awareness of time, of historical continuity, of our connection to one another, to nature, and to the world... physical, and spiritual, connections, not the connection we share just because we can all watch youtube. Anyway, gotta go to work, but thank u for reading this long ramble.

I'm broke right now and have no business shopping for engineer boots, but these Motos are up on Yahoo right now for an excellent price, if anybody wants to grab them: https://item.rakuten.co.jp/jumblestore/2342862227545/?scid=af_pc_etc&sc2id=af_106_0_10001056 fromjapan link: https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/special/order/confirm/jumblestore:29760214/2_1/

still working on the @MJF9-style jacket hold, lol! 80s Carhartt, Stevenson shirt (one of my favourites), Whitesville tee, Duke belt, cane’s and lone wolf.

Happy new year everyone! as i've mentioned to a couple of folks here already, i'm going to be moving back to south america later this year, either heading down thru mexico & central america by motorcycle or flying to venezuela to visit family & making my way around from there. hoping to do some more writing work in the amazon & some photojournalism while travelling, which i'll be sure to share here. anyway, planning for this has got me thinking a lot about what jeans i'd want to bring along... probably only 1 pair, sadly... my heart calls me either to some tender 132s or the tcb good luck jeans, tho i worry about fabric weight being an issue with both. might just go with some okinawas from @roomtemplacroix's collection. but today i have my trusty old cane's on, am gonna give em a wash n patch both knees again, lol. here's to a lovely & restful start to the year for all!

Not mine, just wanted to share this faded pair I came across on Grailed, here’s a link if interested… no affiliation just passing along a nice fade…

Thanks for the info @julian-wolf! That helps a lot. I might end up with a large then and see if it will shrink down. Appreciate it!

Any reason you aren't carrying any smalls in those thermals, @kiya? i'd consider one as an underlayer for a motorcycle trip, but would like it to be a little more snug-fitting than the measurements suggest. Or is there any shrink left in the merino? Thanks in advance, beautiful colour choices this time round!

Feliz navidad everyone!!!

Incredible job! I can't wait to see how they wear in!

Any recommendations on loopwheeled tees with ribbed sleeves? I love the Lee Kung Man-styled shirt as well as Tender's ribbed sleeve shirt, but would like something without buttons or text if possible. Thank you!

@81FXR maybe these story mfg trousers would fit the bill, i looked at these myself a year or so back in brown but ended up passing. Link