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Duke Mantee

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Everything posted by Duke Mantee

  1. Duke Mantee

    FOB Factory

    I think there’s something right and something wrong with that. It’s a scale issue fundamentally. CSF makes a pair each day (I dunno, I’m just guessing) but Levi’s factories were producing a pair every 30 seconds. Point here is that a machinist repeating a task hundreds of times quickly is more likely to find efficiency through consistency. The variations then would be that each machinist would be slightly different to his/her colleagues making the same part. As I said elsewhere the cutting would have an influence because the machinist would be working to join parts that don’t match the way they should, but the repro folks have never figured that or decided it’s too difficult to account for so they focus on the ‘wonky-ness’ of stitching because it’s easier, then screw it up by using excellent machinists in good conditions making jeans ‘slowly’ giving them too much time to think about their ‘mistakes’
  2. Duke Mantee

    FOB Factory

    I’d have thought Sugar Cane would have been the first decent stab at war denim - @Double 0 Soul is your best bet probably. Real McCoys is a possibility but IMO their S003 are not great. Those FOB Factory don’t look great either. Freewheelers tried the ‘wonky’ stitching too, again not amongst their best. The challenge with reproducing war denim is understanding the whole manufacturing process to make them look as they would have been. Wonky stitching is only part of the picture and from what I’ve seen only CSF capture the atmosphere, most others seem to find it difficult to capture that feeling.
  3. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    They look the business - glad you eventually got sorted
  4. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Lofgren only have a single stitch on the welt
  5. Duke Mantee

    Superdenim community sale thread

    Can’t believe these haven’t sold
  6. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Just got a message the hardware was ready - I’m really pleased with this, especially given the cost
  7. Duke Mantee

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    … a happier time
  8. Duke Mantee

    Jelado

    I never said it was a good thing or a bad thing …
  9. Duke Mantee

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    It’s ok buddy - I know ARCA - doc and I were just engaging in some banter. I appreciate the links tho’ - thank you!
  10. Duke Mantee

    Jelado

    Anyone looking at that ass isn’t going to notice any kind of pocket
  11. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    1951 are £150 new at current exchange rates so that Marrkt pair is going to save someone £20+ once you add shipping - pretty good to get a chance to try/buy
  12. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    ‘Flatten’ - yes, but clearly there will be a residual (Gaussian) curvature. It’s also possible that the main central section will flatten whilst the edges curl up since there’s no weight applied …
  13. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    So about that original query; the base curvature is caused by the midsole being made from a hard thick leather which takes time to break in and ease tension on the build, and the sole unit (it’s most noticeable on the the outsole being the thickest part) are cut to ‘splay’ to assist with balance and to avoid rolling your foot. All this from the guy who rebuilt my Lone Wolf boots
  14. Duke Mantee

    What are your jeans doing today?

    I’m warming to the Highballer seeing you wear it - one that I was never sure about
  15. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Euclidean is so pes planus …
  16. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Yes, yes - I get all that, but where’s the science you were talking about? Numbers man, I need numbers!
  17. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    I think you might be overthinking it, no part of the sole is flat but I guess the cobbler isn’t doing anything other than cutting a little bigger to relieve some stress on the stitching. But that’s just some wild theory on my part … so if you’ve got some numbers/calculations to expand on your thoughts throw them up here, I think I’ll cope
  18. Duke Mantee

    Shoes that look better with age...

    Is it to accommodate the different bend radii of the sole components?
  19. That’s why I have the face that I have - to deter passers-by You’re kinda trapped - having to be a mannequin to avoid flat lay …
  20. It’s the head turned sideways looking up that fascinates me - passing UFO maybe?
  21. Everyone has their own thing when we’re doing our fashion selfies. I hate myself in photos - it’s a chore that makes me so angry, grrr … so I grit my teeth, look at the camera and get it done. Now that you understand my situation I’d like ask those that don’t look at the camera - what the f-ck are you looking at?
  22. Duke Mantee

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    Height of summer and near drought conditions - I suppose I save money on tees and shorts … Freewheelers Cassady, S506XX, Steel Driver, S601XX c/w Tender + Whites
  23. Duke Mantee

    Jelado

    I didn’t realise there was no Jelado thread - and that’s surprising given how long they’ve been going and how wide the range is. Nice fit on the jeans
  24. Duke Mantee

    Freewheelers, Bootleggers Reunion, Bubo, etc.

    And Warehouse did their DD-2001 in the full range of sizes
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342

    silver-nose-plaster.jpgshow?id=gf39VV*YhHg&bids=818443.18799516