SuperJackle

Shameless plug: I have an unworn pair of flat head 3009 size 32, western arcs. Has been soaked and chainstich hemmed after soaking to 32” inseam. Message me if interested. 

And I can finally cop those peach colored joggers like the author mentions!

6 hours ago, givemefive said:

Has anyone noticed how their rear pockets where they fold over (interior of the pocket bottom) aren't cut very close to the stitching?  

 

I've only noticed this on one other pair.. a $35 pair of 501s.  In my opinion this is an overlooked detail most other brands do well.  For whatever reason my pair is missing that close cut.  

 

The consequence of course is that this extra material fades through.

I have that on a few other brands/pairs as well. Sugar cane is the offender that comes to mind most easily.  

Post some pre and post wash measurements if you could! I’d be interested pending your results. 

@Broark are the sweats one washed? Been considering a WH sweat but concerned about shrinkage. 

1 hour ago, Maynard Friedman said:

^ That’s not really the idea Broark if you have 10 pairs of Warehouse lying around! 

What if we did a specific brand, I.e warehouse, and if one has a pair lying around then go that route, if not purchase one?

As I’m all for using pre-existing deadstock pairs; I do see an issue regarding interest with a multitude of fits and brands. Similar to the DWC, it seems a lack of continuity will prevail unless we all get excited about something new/special, and come to a consensus on what that might be. Could be wrong though. 

I second Maynard’s idea. I have a pair of warehouse 1105 locked and loaded...

I’d be in for Tender or WH. 

Has anyone compiled a list lately of currently available black denim?

so far that comes to mind:

sugarcane - type 3 black

left field - atlas, greaser, chelsea

rogue territory - stealth Stanton, standard issue, SK

3sixteen - black CT, ST, SL

momotaro x blue owl - natural taper, high tapered, slim tapered

iron heart 634, 

PBJ

samurai

trophy

railcar

Does anyone feel like no one brand completely answers what you’re looking for? My ideal is this: the catalogue(shirts, jeans, jackets) of Sugarcane/Buzz Rickson, the stitching and thread (cotton wrapped poly) of Stevenson, SDA’s experimental humor, Flathead’s “don’t need it until you see it” excess, Iron Heart’s western friendly patterns, the denim and fabrics of Warehouse, the modern playfulness of Orslow, and for god sakes, and maybe I’m alone here...a legit type 3 or 2 (unsanforized, interesting denim, good thread) with handwarmer pockets that measures longer than 24” in length. Same for loopwheel.

Hey @beautiful_FrEaK, looks like totem brand totally stole part of your write up to use as their product description... https://totembrandco.com/products/resolute-710-slim-straight-one-wash-denim-31-inch-inseam?variant=15733119287405

Anyone planning on attending the standard and strange Santa Fe party next Saturday? Would be nice to meet some of you folks. 

Those prices though! Holy hell. 

@Maynard Friedman I’ve specifically been looking at one of the newer buzz sweats in oatmeal, but I remember you mentioning a few years back that they were quite boxy and that you favored deluxewear, yeah?  Measurements would be much appreciated. 

@julian-wolf yes please, if you could measure. 

Anybody know any loopwheel sweats that are cut a bit longer, ie a Japanese size L that is closer to 27” length after washing/drying?

On 1/17/2019 at 10:19 AM, Geeman said:

If you like the fit, the fabrics nice and the construction is solid, don't sell them! 

I know the whole marketing ploy turned us all off initially but if they are now putting out quality, ethically made jeans then why not.?

Did we ever find out who is actually behind the brand?

 

Sorry if this has been answered; Jay from blue owl told me it’s Oni. Totally makes since given all the secret master stuff etc, and the collabs. 

3 hours ago, maharu said:

Exactly my impression. I even prefer 105 for the regular blue denim, for the fuller fit.

What size do you take in your sugar canes compared to orslow? @SuperJackle

32 in canes but size 2 orslow

On 9/11/2019 at 1:39 PM, maharu said:

Got my hands on a pair of black 107s with selvedge recently. Havent worn them yet, but they will definitely see some wear. They fit just a little bit bigger overall than my regular 107s, which is awesome. With just a little bit more of space in the thighs the fit would be perfect!(been spoiling myself with thigh room lately..)  But could easily see them stretch a bit.. 

The fabric feels really nice, like expected from orslow. Might be the pair of black selvedge denim I've been looking for for years!

Snapped some pics. Cheers! 

I have a pair of these as well, they’re great! Mine are on ice until I get through some other black pairs. I found they fit slightly fuller (and better, for me) than the indigo pair of 107’s I had. 

I had the same thing happen with my sugarcane indigo 2014 vs black pair 2014 in the same size. Indigo pair in one wash was smaller all-around, black pair slightly fuller. Makes me think there’s something about sulfur dyed denim that makes it shrink less; the patterns are clearly the same during factory cutting.  

8 hours ago, Geeman said:

What makes you say this?

To me, the first sign was when full count started to adopt all these bold print logo’s and slap them on everything. It’s hard to encapsulate exactly what I’m talking about here, but they really pushed hard into logos and branding a few years ago. Then they started to really experiment with avant-garde stylings. I’m not talking about just different fits, but like boa mufflers and weird shit(for the brand) like that. They remodeled their headquarters to look like some trendy American brewery, with succulents at every juncture.

A repro brand that has remained (largely) unchanged over the years suddenly experimenting so outside of their scope, the arrival of peak selvedge and #workwear and the collapse of the two, and then the brand changing its mainline fits and styling all kind of fits the narrative.

That’s my take, although they may be actually doing great. Unlike others, FC may come out unscathed because of their willingness to adapt. I’m seeing the same thing happen with some ex-rakuten shops like boropy and reggishop. They are increasing the number of crap they carry from nanamica (you know things are changing when fucking teva sandals are trendy!) etc, and slowly the selection they once had of warehouse, SC, buzz etc is dwindling. Hell, even self edge has been bringing in weird stuff from monitaly and human made which has me wondering. So maybe just a sign of the times. 

I hate to speculate in this direction, but fullcount has had such a series of shakeups in terms of their direction, it wouldn’t surprise me if they’re the next to go under. 

32 minutes ago, mpukas said:

fit pics pls

I will get up some fit pics later this evening. Honestly this seems like the exact pair of jeans I was hoping for back when Ed was trying organize a TFHxRJB signet collab. 

With the recent TFH developments, I thought now might be the time to move on a pair before they may or may not become nonexistent. Since I’ve had some hit or miss with mainline flat head fits, the measurements on the one-wash R&H x TFH x RJB 004 looked great, so I pulled the trigger. This is not your normal “relaxed tapered” or high tapered. It is a fuller cut with a very versatile 7.8” hem, size 33 and hemmed to 31” length. 

The one wash measurements are as follows and I gotta say, R&H were spot on with their size chart:

waist 16.5”, front rise 11”, back rise 15” thigh 13”, knee 13” down 9”, hem @31” length = 7.8”

Double stitching is mostly lined up

Flathead iron top button, and RJB lower buttons which I believe are also iron  they feel different than the older RJB zinc buttons

Flathead iron button backs

RJB classic two tone interior chainstitching

Flathead copper rivets

Raised belt loops

Indigo arcs which seem like cotton thread vs FH traditional poly. Time will tell, they could also be poly

Pocket bags seem about as thick as normal from TFH or RJB. Although I have a pair of 1015 in the exceed denim which have thicker pocket bag material.  Pocket openings are also very usable! The shape seems to have been cut a litter bigger than even 3005, and the top block has been designed to hug the hips a little less in order to access the pockets.

Youve all seen this denim for a minute, so I won’t go really into that, but it’s pretty insane 14oz left hand twill. 

47 minutes ago, Broark said:

Thanks for the info @SuperJackle, did he give you any more info on the details? I’ve just heard cinch-back 01 cut so far.

It was essentially just what is known, buckle back pair. Although I didn’t ask what the cut was like, denim etc. 

@Broark I was in the Santa Fe shop the other day and Gus said that the new model is called the Sante Fe and will be releasing the evening of the opening party, 10/26. He didn’t exactly say it would be a Santa Fe exclusive though.