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Posts posted by mlyngard

  1. Is there anywhere online to get a pair of these? If so, can you please post link or PM. I went to their website and no dice....eBay has some, but no sizes....

    No, I looked. But that Kaihara denim is worth the trip to NYC if you can. Or proxy if you can.

    Picked up the MIJ 'classic' and 'slim' cuts on sale in NY last month for $59 each. They promise to be awesome summer jeans.

  2. Denime 66xx or Samurai 710xx? It's about to be summer but I am in Seattle.
    BiG still has some old stock as I heard. There are some Japanese shops too but BiG might be the easy way

    I see that a lot of people were/are sizing 1 up on these.

    Some ownership/management changes at Denime have caused a temporary stall in production. I can't speculate, but Gordon said it's a 'wait and see' situation. Rakuten and BiG are all but sold out of the 66xx. I'm not sure the non-xx denim is as good, but the '66 is the same cut if you can find it on Rakuten.

    Sizing up one is highly recommended, as these shrink smaller than tagged. Soaking is a must for any raws, and on denim with high shrink-rate even more so.

    Personally, 710 denim might be heavy for summer anywhere. Suggest you also take a look at the Sugar Cane 2009 '47 cut (type 2). Great slim repro cut.

    How often do people rotate their cuffs, so that the outlines won't tear?

    I dont 'rotate' my cuffs as much as make an effort not to let them become permanently creased. When they do, they will eventually become brittle at that crease, then fray and tear. I unroll all my cuffs when I take off the jeans.

    Now they're $30 more at $295. It looks like everything has become more expensive now. What gives?

    Well, something called inflation has something to do with it. Exchange rates of the dollar against the Yen have changed a lot too. Also, when demand increases in a market, it's natural to see price increases.

  3. Fantastic photo essay and great stuff everyone! I'm totally sold now.

    My knowledge of Zim is poor, but I think they cultivate a short staple cotton, Albar . I'm speculating, but perhaps this could be valued for denim making in the same way certain Japanese 'repro' brands have developed jeans made from short staple cotton.



    There's probably also longer staple cotton grown...


    I believe Zimbabwe is a long staple variety like Egyptian, and thrives in that arid region for the same reason. Zim has a high lustre and a very white boll. Takes dyes well, does not need to be twisted as much when made into yarn, and has a high tensile stregth. Not sure if most Zim cotton is single harvest or double (which affects growth-time and fiber length). The economics of the region and growing techniques are questionable though.

    I have to say that most of the Zimbabwe cotton denim I own is outstanding.

    I came across this SuFu thread:


  4. i just got a pair of 0701 size 31. my true size is 31 still a bit tight in my waist but i think it is comfortably fit. it is a bit loss in my leg.

    its written in big that 0701 is slightly Sanforized, but in nordic and somewhere forum says that 0701 is unsanforized. which one is the true?

    is 0701 sanforized or unsanforized?

    what do you think about the fit? should i hem it? or just double cuff it?


    I think they look great. Don't hem - you can get up to two inches in inseam shrink on those. I did. Soak these if you haven't yet. Don't invest time in them until you do so - they take a few weeks to break.

    Momotaro uses a 'shrink reduction' process, not true saforization. It keeps the shrink to a minimum without depriving the denim of it's character through sanforization. They shrink as much as many stf denim.

    Mine are turning out to be worth the initial break-in challenge. Give them time.

  5. I wear a 29 in diors, which you are supposed to size down 2-3 for and they are TIGHT.

    I got a pair of BSPs in 31, and post soak, they are NOT.

    If i could I would've gotten a 30.

    I cannot recommend going larger than TTS unless you are looking for not-so-slim jeans. in which case, still go TTS

    just go TTS

    Disagree totally. BSP end up 1/2 smaller than tagged waist and will be a very, very slim cut if you go TTS on them. It's pretty common knowledge that FH has a pronounced second shrink once worn and then washed.

    The general consensus on F310's would be stay true to size, correct? Also could any of you guys compare the F310 to Eternal 811's? If I'm reading the measurements right, the 811's are slightly larger above the knee and then they have a similar taper to the F310 from the knee down (comparing both with a 33 waist, my normal size).

    Edit: I suppose also the 1001 since it is the same cut and the 3001/310 is being discontinued

    Correct on the FH x001 series. TTS. I also have the 811, and there are many differences you won't see on the size chart. The biggest difference is that at the same tagged size, the Eternals have a much roomier top block. Not anti-fit, but more hip room and higher rise, which translates into the jeans getting significant hip flare and wanting to sit a bit higher. Otherwise, the leg is slightly roomier but still slim. It's a pretty fun and strangely addictive cut.

    How much does the rise and leg opening usually shrink on FH?

    The usual 1/2" rise and 1/4" at leg opening with a soak or two. More of you machine dry.

    Hey guys, I recently purchased a pair of Flat Head F380 and soaked it in very hot tap water and a pot of boiling water in a big bin. After it dried, I feel that the fit is too big for me.

    1.Would it make any difference if i washed it and put it in the dryer to get some more shrink out of it?

    2.How would that affect the fading process since I've already done an initial soak?

    3. Does TTS means get the tag size or are you looking at the waist size. Maybe I should have gotten tag size 31 which is a waist 32 instead of getting tag size 32.

    Anyways, if there is no hope, I am willing to sell my pair size 32x36 for any price except below 240 shipped. Only been soaked and worn for 2 hours around the apt.

    Don't sell.

    First, don't boil your jeans - you won't see more shrink with water above maybe 160F. You will fuck them up that way though. Second, always assume they're only partially shrunk with your first soak. You need to wear them and then wash them to get that second shrink. Sometimes more than one additional soak/wash. Wearing them helps the weave settle, which promotes the final shrinking.

    Third, reserve judgement on the fit when they're new, stiff and have yet to relax and drape right. That will change radically.

    Machine drying makes a big difference for sure. Machine washing and the occasional machine dry won't hurt them if done right.

    TTS used here means buying the tagged size that matches your proper waist size. If you wear 31, buy a tagged 31.

  6. I've gotten the streaking from the spin cycle on some of my faster faders like my Flat Heads and Skulls. No doubt going with a gentler cycle (like 'woolens') has worked well for me

    I'm also speculatin' that the spin cycle can also spin some of the freed indigo into the weft fibers, making the inside of the jeans more blue. Seems like it to me. If that does happen, I wonder how those dyed weft fibers will look.

    Also curious if the weft on those will fade quickly...

  7. the SD-106 is a more slimmer cut. available at supderdenim.co.uk and dc4.de

    the main differnce between LVC '47 and 103 (in my eyes) is, the 103 having a lower rise

    I'm actually really amazed. The (14oz) 103 Nat indigo in size 30 waist I show above is noticeably roomier than the standard 103 in a 31 waist I also show.

    The Nat indigo has a greater shrink rate, yet the cut is the same, but strangely, the regular 15oz 103 is much tighter and slimmer right now, much stiffer after soak, and less stretchy. The top-block is roomier on the nat indigo too, and it's an inch smaller sized.

    Now that I've been wearing the standard 103s, I agree that there isn't as much of a difference between the LVC '47 501s and these except for the rise. Both are moderately slim fits.

    thats not a skateboarding accident, thats stepping on his hems.


  8. i thought BiG didn't do arcs/tabs???

    shhhh... :cool:

    if they go in a hot wash they'll shrink even more! but they'll stretch nicely

    Thanks Chris. My retarded ghetto (coin-op) washing machine only does cold washes. Was contemplating the dryer, which worked nicely on my Eternals.

    BTW - this denim is very much like the Eternal and Flat Head denim. Anyone else feeling that?

  9. Looks like it's gonna be good. Lucky devil. Got the arcs and tab. Nice ;-)

    Looks like the 32s were a good call on those.

    Edit - I owe post wash fit pics. Two distinct shrinks (after first soak, and then again after second soak and wash, still more to come I think...)

    Love this denim and loving the fit already.

  10. The hem is 8" on those 31, right?

    Mine are roughly a 8.25 after a soak and wash. They've both been hemmed to 35" inseam when raw though.

    ill have to get more evo pics of my 103's up once the rain clears a bit

    i love this thread being bumped

    Me too. I'd love to see some more evo pics. I'm appreciating the anti-hype slow fades these seem to promise.

    @ Cheap - those look awesome - what are the stats on yours?

  11. ^ Very true, I like my 103s a lot but the notion of them being a slim cut is really a misnomer. They seem like a pretty straight cut to me, I don't have measurements in front of me but I'd say they are pretty similar to the1947 501 cut.

    Surprisingly, at the same waist size, the LVC '47 501 are significantly slimmer.

    Sugar Cane 2009 '47 repros are the closest I've worn so far to the LVC. You would think the 103 would be the same. But SDA seem to evade comparison, except maybe the KMW 1950 cut.

  12. me tooo, shit, i am going to be there in the summer. grrrrrrrr. take some nice pics guys.

    And I was just there last week. Jesus.

    @ DKatz - you still got that awesome batik shirt you picked up in Africa? That was awesome


    Momotaro hoody

    Evisu No2 2000's


    That's a great fit on the no2, and totally thug in general. Assessment on Momo hoodie?

  13. 103s are making me happy. Really liking the fit, but still not sure why these are considered a 'slim' cut. But these are impeccable jeans. Some pics as a SDA noob...

    Crack in a bag


    inhale crack


    week old SDA natural indigo (top) and new SDA standard indigo...


  14. Price drop. All jeans shown are now $125.00 including shipping (international add $20).

    Levis Vintage Clothing LVC 1947 501 31w/34L ....................SOLD

    Guaranteed legit LVC model '47. Almost new condition with all tags. Unaltered. Two soaks. Worn twice. Not altered. Button fly, lemon yellow arcs, original chainstitch hem. Redline selvage Cone Mills 12oz denim (approx 14oz after soak).Current post-soak dimensions:

    W: 30

    F.r: 11

    L.o.: 8

    Ins: 31.5



    Dry Bones Red-D 29w 32L (31w 32L) Slim Tapered

    Worn once. One warm soak. Chainstitch hemmed at Blue in Green. Asking $125.00

    W: 31"

    R: 9.5"

    L.O.: 7.25"


    Momotaro 0701 - 31w/33L.............................SOLD

    One hot soak, never worn. New condition. Chainstitch hemmed at BiG. 33" inseam. My favorites, but the 31 is too small for me.

    (also have another 31w 0701 for sale, worn approx five times, with a second soak. Will take offers)


    Warehouse Dubbleworks 660 - 31w/32L (tagged 28, which = 31 post soak) .....................SOLD

    One hot soak, never worn. New condition. Chainstitch hemmed at BiG. 32" inseam.


    Paypal only via 'personal' transaction please (or add 5%). Shipping included for continental US only. International and Canadan shipping are additional via USPS Priority only (6-10 days anywhere).

    Taking offers. Please email or pm me. Email is quicker: [email protected]

  15. Gotten a 28 before but it was just too tight to be buttoned. am deciding between a 29 and 30 now. any suggestions?

    Imo, get a 30. 29 will be buttonable raw, before soak. 30 will be comfortable. 5010 are slim already, and look great when not skin-tight. No need for pain.

  16. Man, chambo2008, I totally feel you. I soaked and washed my denimes in the washing machine as well, spin cycle, and 2 CRAZY HOURS in the dryer, and the indigo bled unto the weft. Left nasty faded spots and over and vertical creases down the leg. But it's been close to a year (maybe 5-6 months effective wear?) since that happened and they are fine (I think...) At the very least, I have a story to tell... :P

    Yeah, I totally feel for ya too. Happened to me on some Skulls and Flat Heads pretty badly. Got some rub areas on some Eternals too. I think it may be caused by a prolonged agitation cycle in the wash for sure.

    Not sure if inside-out helps. Didn't with me, and the warp (blue) fibers abrading against each other when inside-out may make it worse. Dunno.

    I do know that using the 'woolens' or 'gentle' cycle (longer soak, less spin/agitation) helped.

    Salaami seems to be on point with it though.

  17. I'm thinking about soaking my Uniqlo S-001s in the near future and was wondering what will happen to all my hard work? Will the back of my knees disappear and return to normal? Will the same thing happen to my lap? Sorry if it's been asked already, there's too many pages to wade through to find the answer.

    Just do it and stop worrying. You have to wash or soak your jeans some day. Your creases and combs will re-set in a day. As already mentioned, the combs may shift though. My Uniqlos shrink an inch in the inseam. But that was with a machine dry too.

    this might sound stupid but do i need to bring them into a special repair shop or can any alteration place do it?

    also, do i need to get a new button or anything?

    Do a search for aftermarket rivet buttons like this:


    Or see if Kiya can order and install one. That's not normal wear and tear, imo. Gordon replaced a button on my Momotaro last month. he used a Sam donut button that's easier to install.

    Many buttons use a single post that drives into the back of the button. Many use a double-prong which has to be hammered down from the front of the button (see donut buttons). This is the stronger button, IMO. Many capped buttons I've seen are done this way and capped after riveting onto the jeans.

    ok...a tailor should be able to do it. he might be able to put on the original button otherwise he should have some in stock

    It's probably doubtful that the original button can be re-used. With capped buttons, you can't.

    anyone know how the fit is on the skull 5507xx 6x6 compared to the sufuxdbxse ? also does anyone know when the 5507xx 6x6 are going to restock anywhere? sold out everywhere geez!

    I have (had) both. Different cuts. Not radically different, but it's noticeable. With the exception of the slim leg on both, Skulls are higher rise, narrower in the hips, with much more taper. SExDB09s are more straight-leg slim.

    Scuttlebutt is that there's a Skull restock soon.

  18. Out of all the jeans I've tried so far, these are BY FAR my favorite. I love these jeans
    This is the weirdest cut I've ever pulled on.


    Just wore the 811s I purchased in Japan for the first time. Fucking love these jeans...

    Shit's crazy, right? I'm no noob, but when I pull these on, I'm still astounded by how fun this fit is. And how strange it is that I like it so much. My favorites and I don't know why. Fit is 'outside the box' for sure. These are not predictable jeans for a newcomer, but I can tell they're gonna be rewarding already.

    It's like they're telling me to relax and trust the fit, yet also telling me I gotta be patient and earn this one. I like that.

    I would cuff them a bit so you still have a little stacking but not soo much and a sweet Selvage exposing cuff to wear around town.

    With you on the cuff rec.

    Great combs coming in there though.

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