mlyngard

Funny thing is, many lame trend whore labels have been trying to do the "authentic americana" jean thing for over 10 years, and they basically fell short and failed, and we ridiculed them for it. Supreme or Stussy Redlines, Old Navy Selvedge, Gap Selvedge, RRL Selvege, etc etc. Now everyone is mad that jcrew, this time, actually hit ALL the salient points? Japanese, raw/1-rinse, rivets, leather patch, selvege, even a chainstich service, etc.... we mad because they hit it on the head?

We mad (well, I mad) because they never would have hit it on the head without the love of this forum and Warehouse owners here.

We mad because they then stated in their press release that they 'discovered' Warehouse in Japan. No props to the dudes who explored WH here, or BiG.

JCrew never could have or would have had the guts to venture into Japanese denim without this Forum developing it over the last five years. To even imply in that P.R. that they were the first American market to 'discover' Warehouse is crass.

Aren't Levi's known as 'Revisu' in Japan, with the 'L' sound being absent (as we know it in the West)?

The No2 2000s sold on eBay for £185/$285, fair to say I'm chuffed to bits with that

Snap. Must remember ebay for my unloved jawz sales. Just hate to put them in an orphanage like that, but...

I think you're right about the 'L' sound too.

From what I remember, the Evis'-u' is not just legally required but also a Japanese humorous and/or cultural twist on an American noun. Some gai-jin poster here who was fluent in Japanese explained the use of the '-u' sound added to certain words, and why it was a tongue-in-cheek thing with the Evisu name.

I think linguistically, the Japanese have as much trouble ending a word with a hard 'S' as the Italians do, so they add '-u' where the Italians might want to add another vowel. The japanese know this, so 'Evis-u' is a way of humorously saying the name LEvis turned Japanese...

Does my half-baked explanation make any sense?

'

New 811s and I went to the Philly/Japan Society annual Cherry Blossom festival today. Beautiful girls, flowers and spring sun.

Thought you guys could use some springtime fun. Some fit pics included to justify this silly post...(no denim sightings worth noting...)

It's a pretty simple equation:

Denim weight is stated in ounces-per-square-yard

tighter-weave denim shrinks less. Looser weave shrinks more. The more the shrink, the heaver weight per-yard after soak (the denim contracts).

A good example is SDA natural indigo vs. regular. The natural indigo version is 14oz raw, the regular is 15oz. The natural shrinks 2" in the waist, the regular 1". So post-soak, both should be roughly the same weight.

Like Salaami said, a thicker feeling, slubbier denim won't always weigh more either, since the cloth can feel thicker because of slubbiness and yarn 'loft' but weigh less.

Found a little info, but needing clarification on regular Denime 66 model versus the XX denim.

As far as I can tell, the '66' uses lighter denim, and the 66xx uses Denimes premium stuff? Also, the 66-95 0r 66-14 (don;t understand the difference) has a lower rise cut?

The shrink-rate seems high on the 66 (31 tagged has a 35.4" raw waist according to the chart). Size down one?

Links:

http://en.item.rakuten.com/fukuraku/r10dpde_50100075/

http://en.item.rakuten.com/frisbee/10002571/

Are these the only differences? I like the lighter denim, but I'm just not sure how Denime grades its denim.

Also, on the 66xx through BiG - is sizing up two on tag common recommendation?

Bump.............

How did you size on those kixslf?

I also found this article to be interesting:

http://www.shanghaidaily.com/sp/article/2009/200904/20090418/article_398076.htm

Those are good. Thanks man.

the 2008 it uses the no.4 denim, it's open-yarn denim and not ring spun.... hence, it's mid ranged run off the mill denim -dont buy it, Just a waste of money

Thanks man. Much appreciated.

I can't find any info on these, so I apologize if this was discussed here already. I profess only a beginner's knowledge on Evisu, but it seems to be getting more intricate by the day so I feel like i have no idea what I'm getting.

Need to know what denim Lot this is, and if anyone can give direction on where to find sizing charts. Also, gulls on these? Denim weight and source? How anyone can buy with this info is beyond me:

2008 model from evisu website...

http://shop.evisu.com/collections/mens/products/mens-raw-2008-jeans

Washed my IH301S today.

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These are totally handy (get the large size):

http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70011397

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(i won't be participating, but i love watching eternal evo)

Why not, Mister Moneybags?

Kind of a long shot, but does anyone here go to the University of Michigan? I spotted someone wearing a pair of FHs and I'm pretty sure he spotted mine as well.

Oooh. Was it hot?

That's actually pretty awesome. I've never had a FH sighting in the wild before.

are FHs really tight in the knees? .

Nope. Some are fairly fitted at the knees, like 3001 and BSP, but that alone won't precipitate knee-fade. It will promote honeycombs behind the knees though.

Knee fades are pretty much unavoidable unless you size up or don't ever sit down. When you sit down the knees are always going to pushing against the jeans. .

Mehhh....

i've found that knee fades come from doing shit on your knees.

i won't buy sanf/pre-shrunk jeans, but i have to admit that sanforization has NOTHING to do with the quality of the denim itself.t.

KMW and Somet have amazing denim for san. too. And Skull ain't bad. But I just find sanforized never have the same textures that stf do.

agreed, i don't have no fades on my knees. you need abrasion and fiction to fade. if you're not on your knees, don't expect much knee fading.

Yeah, I'm really on board with this and Salaami. Abrasion is the only way to get wear. My FH BSP were pretty slim and no knee fades. None of my jeans get knee fades. I've never found that it has anything to do with sitting or the denim.

Agreed the 013 look large. They shrink to an inch over tagged size too, even with a few washes. Would suggest a run in the dryer, but additional inseam shrink might be a problem.

I was surprised how 'raw' seeming the 013 stayed even after a soak, wash and then a short dryer spin. Compared to my old 005, these remained much greyer and stiffer. Same denim too.

That said, that fit should improve pretty fast.

My opinion about this J Crew thing is that they are likely doing it as a small scale loss leader which helps establish/ maintain their "hip" credentials .

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On point. I agree with that assessment. The 'tiering' of their more urban brands (Madewell & Liquor Store) is smart for that strategy. Those sub-brands/stores seem to be the test-bed for their loss-leaders. It's a really smart way to structure.

and not to be a dick, but it's the internet, other people are gonna read it, even people who work for j.crew. who's really surprised?

anyhow, the bottom line for me is that supporting small brands doing good work is great, but so is having easy access to nice denim.

No dick at all. Solid points. I suppose we're all aware that anything we share here is going to be publicly consumed by not just denimheads but also by the corporate world. That lack of secrecy is only a good thing.

Public knowledge sharing is way more important in the long run. The market will decide the rest.

Great seeing lesser-known brands here. Nice.

edit: like that belt too. Who?

It seems Mr. Fujiki change the content of the blog. When it was first posted, the blog had pictures of Gordon doing the translation between Mr. Fujiki and JCREW. It also showed some of the stuff JCREW was researching like UES denim and KTM flannel shirt. JCREW did not hijack anything. Gordon helped JCREW to get this collab done. It seems logical that JCREW would go to Gordon for chainstitching services.

@fardin – Heller’s Café x WH collection has some really unique stuff. I have a Heller’s Café X WH outdoor flannel shirt. It is my favorite flannel shirt.

I stand corrected, and freshly educated. Thanks man, I didn't know those things. This is amazing dialogue and the reason I love this forum.

I was feeling pretty bent about this. I realized I was feeling like JCrew co-opted and appropriated a brand which the members on SuFu have made major inroads to explore and introduce to us. I guess I've been feeling like the knowledge this community developed was essentially 'stolen' and repackaged for resale to an audience that doesn't want to do that work. That bothered me.

JCrew does an admirable job at introducing classics to a market often unexposed to them. That's a good thing.

Yet JCrew's implied promise is that their products are 'edgy' yet 'safe' and already market-proven for immediate acceptance. No risk for the buyer. That's really bland.

I admire that those on this forum take risks with brands and cuts. I still think JCrew hijacked this subculture's knowledge-base.

I also know that's the way that market operates. I've worked as a team architectural designer for Pottery Barn/Williams Sonoma/West Elm and Gap. I worked on the Pottery Barn flagship in Soho - which cost the chain millions to renovate and was closed in six years. Nothing is riskier and less encouraged than an original idea in that world. Every move is calculated.

I think a huge amount of effort from JCrew goes into market research and risk assessment before they launch anything. It's about as white-bread "safe" as you can get.

Why is it unlikely that he ran across it on a trip?

, wouldn't shock me for them to send designers and buyers over there to scope out potential trends.

Wouldn't surprise me either that they might scope Japanese trends. But they aren't making a move on any Japanese trends without proof that it translates to the US market.

My assumed timeline:

- Jcrew follows WH contest. JC well aware of BiG. JC likes WH contest results.

- Jcrew assesses all of BiG and SE's brands for best marketability and compatibility with existing store image. Follow blogs to assess popularity.

- JCrew sends scouts to WH on one of their regular scouting/buying trip to Asia. JC and Warehouse discuss feasibility of collab.

- JCrew 'discovers' Warehouse in Japan. Makes press announcement.

- JC repeats same process for footwear, outerwear departments, etc, etc,....

if you think youre better than someone else because of the clothes you wear, youre a douchebag.

Agreed, but it cheapens the experience a little for me. I appreciate the nuances and heritage of the denim. I feel that appreciation took time for me to learn from you all here on the Forums and from wearing it and earning it. So it's not about 'cool factor' for me.

No hate, just disappointment. Look - if ten thousand new noobs came here saying they were gonna buy WH from Gordon, I'd be thrilled. I just feel like JCrew hijacks the work and love of places like BiG (and this forum). Let the enthusiasts do the hard work establishing the trend, then appropriate it.

Also, who do you think JCREW is sending the jeans to for chainstitching?

Not Gordon. A Levis place, maybe. Union Specials aren't that hard to come by.

I think the biggest thing about all of us hating on the J.Crew partnerships is that we don't want other people wearing the same things we do...Which I understand but I don't want to get stuck on such a minor ego trip...

Let's not forget, people were wearing raw/selvedge jeans before all of us were born, so this "trend" isn't exactly something new

Does this not help support the companies we love?

Second post 'cause this brings up so many good points. I hate ego-tripping about denim too, because I didn't come to this game thinking I was breaking new ground, or wearing something super-unique. But I hate that raw has become as trendy as it has, because to me, the real pleasure of Japanese raw is that it's mostly anti-trend.

I also hate fair-weather fans of anything (sports, motorcycles, bands). They come and then go. But when they go, they leave the campground littered with trash that we have to clean up.

And I'm not sure this collab will profit anyone except JCrew. But it may make life harder on BiG for restock timeliness, dumb questions from JCrew collab owners, etc (who's gonna handle that busted pocket stitching, JCrew?). Warehouse will probably be fine.

you remember the bake-off? damn, you cats really pay attention to the ole' boy!

Oh hellz yeah. We at the IRS know exactly how many jawnz you've been koppin', Mr. "Salaami". Actually, been considering FC as my next buy, and have been loving that thread.

I especially loved the world-tour denim hand-off photo shoot you appeared in (posted by your bearded, cab-drivin', fellow Baltimore homie). That was righteously funny in so many ways.

wtf is wwd?? the fuck is that?

Wymminz Wear Daily. THE insider fashion rag.

J Crew stepping it up. I am guessing they will do a 660 type fit.

It's gotta be a one-wash. No way they'll do raw.

The retailer has collaborated with Japanese selvedge denim label Warehouse on an exclusive men's style that will sell for $300 on its Web site, and at its Men's Shop and Liquor Store locations here.

Frank Muytjens, J. Crew's head of men's design, said he discovered Warehouse denim while on a trip to Tokyo last year.

"It's small and special," said Muytjens of the collaboration. "It definitely has a cult connotation to it. Not many people know Warehouse outside of Asia, so it's unique."

What a lying sack of shit and a sack of shit in general. I love how JCrew gang-rapes everyone and passes all their Forum-stolen trends as things they've "discovered" all by themselves. And of course also implies they traveled millions of miles to discover these things, so that they could give the JCrew buyer something 'exclusive' and 'special'.

Not to mention how retarded the rest of that article is. I can't wait for the parade of noobs here once those are launched. Consider JCrew boycotted by my lame ass.

x-post from IH thread

my Iron Heart 301s at three months

and the teaser shots I posted first

No homo (heheh), but man, that's some great commitment to, what... 21oz denim? You can really see the weight of that denim in the pics. Nice.

Hey,

So after 6 years of lurking,

S710XX

PBJ 005

APC New Standards

Levis 501xx

lulz...Shit. That's some strategic six-years of lurking, mate. That's tactical nuclear lurking. Nice fucking job, brother

Edit - talk to BrownMetallic or check out the 'jeans repair' thread - jawnz need some thread-love. But what am I talking about - you know this. ;-)

you mofos need to stop...firstly there is no shame in painting your own arcs. why is it that handpainted evisu arcs are so prized, but painting a pair of WH is denim blasphemy? ..

Lulz...good points. I don't like Evisu painted arcs either, but I just don't like messin' with my jeans at all other than to hem them and patch them. Screwing up and then having to paint over a whole pocket would be a major bummer for me.

That said, I did see your painted FC arcs in the contest thread, and I gotta say they looked awesome. You did a great job on those. Three bakes in the oven took some bawlz.

Bon Appétit!

My 2 cents on that ;-)

FH denim is da bomb