mlyngard

quick question, i was told by one of the guys at seny to do a cold soak for 20 minutes on my 1001's. i did that and got them hemmed. they have roughly an inch, maybe two inches to spare. did that cold soak get most of the shrinkage out? or will my pants be too short when i wash them the first time? thanks

you are always better hot soaking at least twice before hemming just to be sure , but i think you will be ok just pull the legs by hand after soaking

Cosign. You'll see more noticeable shrinkage with another soak, especially in the length and the top block fit. Suggest waiting a few weeks for some of the break-in to happen and the denim to soften, which got me nice results on my BSP.

Edit: additional inseam shrink for me was less than 1/2", but it felt like more. I did a prelim. 1/2 hour hot soak, then warm soak for second.

Gramps, a few quick question for you on those 864. I emailed Gordon, but was hoping for info straight from an owner:

What's the rise and leg opening on those 864, post soak? They're 31w, right? I can't read Japanese, so Rakuten isn't much help.

Did you order from BiG, or Rakuten?

Did you get those raw or factory O/W?

Thanks in advance.

864s and their infamous low rise. I've had them for a while, maybe just under a year of continuous wear. Many crotch blowouts, snags, a few holes from falling out of or off of things, etc etc.

Waaay better, champ. Those look great.

I had put some pictures in this post a while ago of 35 waist 5010s. I ended up sizing down one. Since I got a few comments, I thought I'd post the pictures of the 34s.

Very happy with the fit, like the denim, overall very pleased.

After an initial soak and 6 days of wear (big picture plus two thumbs):

Hey, quick question. I've soaked my skulls once after 2 weeks of solid wearing. Not much shrinkage, but I'd like to shrink them a bit further. Does anyone think a wash right now would seriously damage the fading potential of my jeans?

You're not going to see any more real shrinkage out of those with a second soak as compared to after the first. You can try, but I didn't. I sense only a machine dry is gonna get you that extra bit.

Definitely give them time before wondering about if you made a sizing mistake. Those look good and the stretch isn't as much as some denim due to the tight weave.

just picked up fresh 030s at BiG

legs are pretty tight but I probably could've gone one more down in the waist

jeans are looking good danisfake. thats a nice belt as well, info on those?

Belt is Tanner. London Tan, I think. Black buckle.

presoaked my jeans right when i got em. Worn them exclusively for 2 months. Would it be too early to give em a warm/hot soak right now?

I soaked my BSP at two months and it improved the fit incredibly. Even with an initial hot soak, there was still some shrink left in them. Top block fit was the most improved - hip flare gone and seat fit is great. Fading didn't stop and creases returned in an hour.

Yup. Just wear them! No premature washing!!!

Disagree completely. Besides, he asked about soak, not wash.

so for flatheads just generally true to size to get the right fit correct?

Depends on the model. BSP are sized up one. But yes, IMO, you don't want to downsize on them.

There's the Dry Bones//SE/SF collab contest too, ending this spring.

Dr Martens 'James' model. Excel leather. About 1 year. Mink oil only.

crosspost from 'what are your jeans doing today' thread.

My FH 310's in the middle. 1 year 4 months. 3 soaks 2 washes. should have been studying instead at 2am than this .

That's such an awesome pair of pictures. + rep on that too.

What are the Skulls with the red patch? And where did you kop those?

Classic FH fades. +rep man.

flat head f310

the full shots didn't come out great but the macros are pretty accurate.

I am seriously considering getting a pair of Momotaros soon. I think that I am leaning towards the 0201s. I got a pair of Skulls recently and I am looking for something a little less slim. I am usually a size 32 in Flatheads and Ironhearts. I did go with a 31 with my Skulls. What size Momos should I be?

There doesn't seem to be many evo pics of Momos either. I want to see a faded pair.

The 0701s are TTS when raw. Yes, BiG's chart is off in waist size. Context's is correct.

So a 31 tagged will measure 31"W raw, and shrink to 30. If you go TTS, these will be just slightly roomier than the 5010. Very slightly, with the noticeable difference in the hips and knee. Size up one for a roomier-than-Skull fit. I did.

so any cuts that are similar to the 5010?

Check out the Flat Head 05BSP. The closest I've had to my 5010. Also, the new BiGxPBJ 013 collab is somewhat close if you size down one.

Couldn't find the repair thread, figured I'd ask here. Where can I send my jeans to get hemmed and re-chainstitched? Denim Doctors...? Anyplace else? What kind of price am I looking at for this?

Self Edge is offering it now, as is Blue Owl in Seattle:

http://blueowl.us/scripts/psp/VB_Bridge3.dll?VBPROG=\bin\shop.prodt.detail&SKU=1

depending on the price. $300+ is an auto no go for me >_< Hoping more like $250...

Not sure why $50 would be a make-or-break amount, if you're really serious about it.

The $10 is for a custom design for the patches, and as far as his statement goes, has nothing to do with the pocket patch as an additional cost.

I hope so 'cause that pocket patch is coming off, pronto, so I may as well just rip a ten-dollar bill in half if the cost is for adding the leather.

There will already be enough samurai references on it so why not throw a nice noticeable Blue In Greene reference.

Totally. I'd like to see something graphically as a reference too (on top of BiG 'text'). Manhattan skyline, etc. I really liked the DB/SF Golden Gate Bridge reference incorporated into that design.

I know that figuring out if people are actually going to buy these is going to be difficult, but if it helps, I'm definitely committed.

Actually, I would imagine of there were polls for the DB or WH contests, it would be fairly easy to cross-reference vote quantity vs. actual participants, right? If that data is still available...

[quote=Pi$tol;2159895

This is an idea of what we should be looking towards minus the back pockets.

It has dam near all the details we voted on too!

It was the Jin cut with the 5000VX zero and Jin denim.

Check it out

Thanks for putting that up man. Even incomplete visuals are great to have at this point.

Ah, okay. That makes a little sense. But how is it that after the fibers have "bloomed" and swelled that they don't return to the original size after drying?

They do return to their original size. But the swelling causes the fibers to interlock more tightly, so when the fibers dry, they retain that tighter weave. Imagine interlacing your fingers, and then squeezing them together. They lock together more tightly. It's a phenomenon that happens with knits and weaves. It explains why things shrink.

Also explains why it's good to soak all denim - sanforized or not - because that interlocking also helps to strengthen seams and stitching areas, and it also brings out the real character of any denim.

i hate that the search function doesnt work

demin doctors have their own thread? looking to get a pair of samurais from japan hemmed and want to know how to go about doing it

I too would like to know about sending a pair to denim doctors to have hemmed. How's the service? quality? and turn around time.

I hear Denim Doctors has a chainstitch machine (which is surprisingly uncommon, seeing as they're $700-800). Also, SelfEdge, Blue In Green and Blue Owl http://www.blueowl.us have chainstitch services. Abour $20 or so. I use SE and BiG all the time.

can I reattach a rivet or do I have to buy new ones?

Who made the jeans, and can you exchange? That's a production flaw. If jeans aren't returnable, contact the shop or you might even have to contact the manufacturer and ask (I know of a number of people on this site who have done this, and received rivets sent from Japan). They should be provided free-of-charge, or you can send the jeans back if that's even realistic.

When you get the rivets: If you don't have a rivet driver, you'll have to rivet the new one on with with a hammer and some kind of metal tube about the diameter of a Bic pen to span the rivet nipple. Something like a socket-wrench head, a small section of pipe. Then - bam! - hammer the flat part down onto and over the nipple. Make sure you don't do it half-assed. Make sense?

seriously. this is killing me.

To change post order: You'll want to go to 'Supercontrol (top right) > Supersettings (right) > Edit Options...

Anyone actually know why when exposed to hotter water, jeans shrink more? Generally speaking, when things get colder, they tighten up and get denser. It always riddled me.

Simple, actually. Water causes the fibers to swell, then re-knit even more tightly and densely. Hot water (which causes things to expand more) causes the fibers to enlarge even more and knit tighter, and then as the fibers cool and dry, the weave becomes more dense and tighter than if cold water was used.

It's the 003, 006, and 009 that have a sort of 501-ish fit.

Agreed. Never had any of those models, and the 008 at the time I had them were looser than I liked. Looking at the size charts, the 003 or 006 is a closer cousin to the 501 for sure.

I suppose the 008s could be compared to an APC NS cut. 005s more like a Skull 5010 cut with less taper.

Count me in as well. I'm willing to spend over $300 to see this.

Bump for a wicked amazing pair of jeans. Pictures do not do these justice!! Buy them. Some of my favorite denim.

Which PBJ's fit the closest to Levi's 501's?

IMO, the 008. I briefly had a pair.

I really wanna try the modified 005's by BIG. Can anyone who has them tell me a little more on how they fit ?

I just sold my 005s because of the slightly too slim fit and I think a bit extreme for some (even me, and I have fairly skinny legs).

I loved the 005 denim though, and these 013 BiG collabs resolved every issue I had with the cut. The small increase in thigh dimension, the slightly more tapered leg make these a more 'neutral' cut, while still slim.

Rise is practically the same. Top stitch on the inseam is a nice change too. If you like the 005 but find them too snug or too flared below the knee, these are for you.

New PBJ / Blue in Green Collab - the 013. 005 denim and cut, with rise slightly altered, thigh a bit larger and more taper.

Size 30 tagged. One soak shrunk them to almost exactly the dimensions on BiG's size chart. Leg opening ended up at 7.5 instead of 7.25". Beautiful slubby denim. Nice grey cast. Inseam stitch also revised per BiG spec.

Pics on day one.

Momotaro sold

so any cuts that are similar to the 5010?

Feedback seems right on the 5507s (I would have suggested WH 660s, SC 66s, etc).

The 5010 were a pretty unique ft for me. Narrowest in the hips of any I owned, and really slim with a taper.

So far, the only two I would compare that I;ve worn are the Momotaro 0701 nd the PBJ 005s. But both have a wider l.o. by at least .5" across. Somet are close too, but that rise...(and again, leg opening).

You can take a look at those new Tellason Strummers recently released, as well as the Ande Whall Grifters, which seem spot-on with the Skull 5010 fit.

The pockets on my 66xxs are making me frustrated, they're harder to get my hands into than my et.811's, which were much slimmer, especially in the thighs.

How do you make pocket holes bigger without distorting the shape?

Just stretched the pockets on a pair of WH 660s (my last pair had Skull-tight pockets and ended up distorting and popping the stitching).

Post-soak, I let them dry 'til damp and then, while still fairly damp, hand-stretched the pockets while they hung. The damp denim is pretty malleable at the pockets then. It worked out fine once they dried.

Please delete