mlyngard

Summary: A company where people get paid $2 a day could make Tanner Goods quality products, then ship them to America and sell them for a lower price.

Oh, shit. Yeah. Can of worms.

Isn't that that one of the reasons we come here? To find that line between the crap and the beautiful? And that place in-between?

i think the both of you are kind of missing the point of what i'm trying to say here. if this is becoming a discussion about validating your previous purchases then that becomes pretty pointless.

everyone here is looking for not just the next big thing, they're looking for the sweet price vs quality point. i'm merely stating that a lot of people here make purchases based solely on the brand. for example, i'm not saying certain belts aren't worth their 100 dollar price tag, i'm saying that if pretty much the exact same thing with the exact same quality and exact same material was used and could be found cheaper, why cling to the more expensive of the 2? if we can admit that we are sometimes suckered into the brand, then i'd be happy to point out that even that oh so sought after brand would likely be a brand the majority population of earth wouldn't recognize. so branding becomes a moot point. no ones going to point at your belt in the middle of the street and go 'OMG is that a tanner goods belt?' (and i'm not taking any personal digs at tanner goods).

if there is so much wrong in what i've just posted then fine i'll leave this thread.

Don't leave! - you're just being asked to defend your position. We all are. I admire anyone who feels strongly about anything.

So - keep wearing those APC with that back pocket stitching (yes, I know them). Then, when you're ready, come join us over at the denim forum and discover what other denim has to offer too. There are the ones who buy because of respected brand name and the ones who discover the brands and pass on the knowledge. Very little here is pure brand hype. That would be uncovered quickly.

A few dollars difference in price-point ceases to mean anything once you delve into some of the nuances of anything worthwhile. Talk to the shoe obsessed here, or the guys who hunt vintage pre-70's pea coats. It's a profound appreciation. GAP and Jcrew ask $50 for a belt made of table scraps. Sometimes a belt ain't just a belt. Something worn that close to the skin takes on meaning.

Edit - as happy Tanner owner - I can say for sure you just discovered and turned me on to something new. I love the hunt. Thanks for the post, mate.

The 0701 are (like '47 LVC), true to the tagged size when you get them raw. They shrink an inch waist when soaked or washed.

So if those are tight when raw, I suggest you wear them damp of use something to stretch the waist. I'm a 29 APC also. These are nothing like the easy stretch you get with APC. You'll only get about 1" stretch in a week or two just by wearing them, but as always it depends on how and how much you wear them.

If you really sized up one as I'm guessing from your post, you'll be fine, since post-soak they'll be 31s. It just takes a little more time and commitment to get them stretched. It's one of the tightest weave Zimbabwe you can find, so it's slow progress. Or again, you can use something to stretch them while damp, which is what I do to my 31w.

Once the waist is okay, the rest of the fit becomes an amazing and really rewarding experience as it breaks in. Momos are one of the least appreciated and best jeans out there.

KMW sold..................

mlyngard when you got the 31's were they really a 30 waist? my 31s measure 30 just curious if yours did too. got the, one wash and not raw right?

Didn't measure, but mine (bought raw) definitely felt 30 or less to me after wash (machine wash/dry tho...)

The new one-wash at BiG were crazy! Between the stiff, crisp denim and the 'hang-dry' technique they use, those were not one-wash for the faint-of-heart

matt: agree with you on fighting the waist man. no bueno after washes. (i think they'll turn out better than infrequent washing) !

i've always been intrigued by the evisu no.1... maybe in a few years when i've actually caught up to wearing all the jawnz i've accumulated.

Word. I'm looking forward to working on a more vintage-y fade on these. The lure of fast-fading immediate gratification has lost some of its charm.

jawnz: I know, right? Help me.

Superdenim: The only place a guy can be sure he'll never be asked: "Dude, why do you have so many jeans?"

mlyngard: how is the waist on you for a 31? (did you get raw or one wash)? if the waist was manageable and not brutal to button up on the first try i would venture to say that sizing down to a 30 would actually work quite nice. the waist seems to be the limiting factor on sizing down with 811s as it tends to run small.

embrace the flare.

any word on if they're working for the contest jean to NOT have the hip flare, i'm not really diggin a hip flare if the contest jeans will have it

I'm totally embracing the flare! It's got some real personality. But then, the 811 is totally a cut that requires embracing in every way. It's not for a denim noob for sure. It's such a breath of fresh air from all my low-rise slim straights. Timing on these was perfect - I've been trying to get out of the slim straight rut for a while. Needed a kick in the ass like these 811.

I sense altering the top block to supress the flare would be a fundamental change to the cut. The hip flare is already starting to abate a bit, a and a tumble in the dryer while damp really took the cardboard out of them. They drape better everywhere.

Chris - I could maybe get away with a 30w (waist was snug but easily buttonable). Don't want to downsize though. These were almost a 30 anyway after their second soak and tumble. I just use a waist stretcher gizmo (might have to on the '47s...).

I want to wash these regularly, and I get pretty tired of fighting the wast on my tighter fits for a few days a month. I'm digging this looser repro fit too. If anyone likes these, take a look at the Evisu Lot no.1.

.............................................

Flat Head SE05BSP 31w ...............SOLD

3 months wear. No weak spots. Some inner pocket repair. Chainstitch hemmed at BiG. 2 washes. Just beginning to break in.

More evo pics in Somet Vs. Flat Head thread.

Please PM or email me: [email protected]

Price includes USPS Priority shipping, continental US only.

x-post from another Forum (Somet vs. Flat Head).

Start: Jan 1, 2010. Worn 2.5 months continuous. Retired (for me) from rotation. Just got too slim after second soak.

Two soaks, two washes. Initial soak and at three weeks or so. First wash at eight weeks, last at ten weeks. Worn for ten weeks continuously, not worn at all final two weeks of March.

Pictures taken 6pm, natural indirect light. No saturation or contrast adjustments made to pictures. Apologies for any washed out areas.

And the cycle continues....

Thanks guys. I'm seeing the potential of the cut, and it has it's charm. I can also see that with some time, it'll drape better. But I'm glad to hear the flare will somewhat abate.

re: the 833 i sized the same way as my 811 TTS and went with a 30.

the initial fit is exactly the same as the 811. REALLY tight. as i wear them i can feel them giving in all the right places (mainly waist) to eventually fit as well as my 811's do.

differences: rise is SLIGHTLY lower. barely noticeable in front, more noticeable in rear. i plan on wearing these relaxed on hips anyway. from thighs down to knee it feels same as it did right after washing my 811s. the knee to hem portion is slightly slimmer and measures about a half inch smaller at the hem than my 811s. I anticipate these to fit very nicely in a week.

one thing i miss: HIP FLARE. (sup portland)

so these don't replace the 811s in any way. it's just a new fit probably most likely only for skinnier people.

i don't recommend going out of your way to get the 883. they are great, but it's not worth it if you can't get them easily. (rakuten makes things easy)

811 is forever.

Thanks for the review Chris!

I gotta try those 883 then. I'm loving these 811 for what they are, but the 883 seems to resolve the areas I'm least happy with on the 811 (lower leg, top-block width).

Went TTS (31). Just washed and machine dried them last night after wearing them with a single soak (then a good rain soak later

Loving the fit now, except for that immense hip flare. I like '66 style repro-cut hip flare, but this is crazy. Will that shit chill out as they soften and break in? It did on my FH, but that top block was supposed to be slimmer. It seems like the 811 become a great fit after a few days. Tell me this is the case?

Bump.....................

Thanks Chris!

Flat Head BSP sold.

He actually pulled the selvage edge in a little bit. Im not complaining though I can hardly notice while wearing them.

Every time I look at this picture, I cannot for the life of me figure out why and how your tailor did that. It must have wrecked the fit of the leg.

Momotaros are so beautiful. Damn. I should have gotten them instead of Eternals.

Just got Eternals, and have a few 0701. Get both. They're worlds apart in fit, denim and experience, but both amazing.

There doesn't seem to be many evo pics of Momos either. I want to see a faded pair.

Look here. 0705s I think:

http://www.contextclothing.com/fading_indigo.php

Was at BiG this weekend and tied a pair of Momos size 32 and they were pretty snug in the waist but fit well everywhere else. a good pre-soak silhouette. Does anyone with experience with the 201 cut have any opinion on the 1 inch shrinkage and .5 inch in thigh, leg, and knee that BiG shows? Is this pretty acurate?

I can't use the any shrinkage in the waist but need a warm or hot soak to get the leg width to form a bit better: however, I fear that going up in waist size will kill the fit.

Any help would be appreciated?

Must have just missed you. Was there too the same weekend. I have a 31 and a 32 0701. One size makes a noticeable difference in fit.

Waist is TTS on those before wash, and stretch is very minimal so I suggest you consider sizing up if those are tight while dry, in the shop. You absolutely should not wear these dry. Regardless of the 'partially sanforized' statement, they are true shrink-to-fit, so you'd be insane to do that.

If you size up and they're slightly too loose, then machine wash and dry them. I did on my larger 32s and they fit like a dream now. This denim is crispy, so responds well to a machine wash/dry to soften them up. I'm wearing my 31s with one soak and plan to keep them as a 6-month-no-wash, and the 32s as a regular wash.

0500

prewash

x post

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Wow on all of these. Would rep but I'm out.

i guess i'm a little confused as to why he wouldn't be allowed to wear the pants he wanted?

You might be thinking it's a way bigger place than it really is. The place he works at is just a small like, local bakery for our suburban area, nothing serious or whatever. Great food though, my favorite is the caramel apple bread.

Most food prep/foodservice places will have an outside garment and laundry service (like a restaurant's linen service). Food preparation places should and probably are required by code to provide clothes, headgear and aprons to those working with food. Regardless of the size of the place. Those same dirty work clothes are then laundered by the same service and clean ones provided.

It's totally unhygenic to allow staff to wear their street clothes around food prep. I wouldn't want my nurse wearing scrubs with last weeks patient blood on them.

mlyngard damn bro, you have some nice jawnz for sale. if i didn't have 883s on order i'd cop them Red-D's!

You'll have to show us how those 883 look on you. I'm digging those 811 I just kopped in every way, but I'm still curious about the 883. Gordon had asked me if I was still interested in them when I was in the shop this weekend, so I'm guessing he's still considering stocking them.

yo i got a pair of lvc 1967 505's and there's like heaps fo tiny tiny fibers coming out from all over the jeans.. does anyone know what this is and how to get rid of it??

I think I'll take a fit pic and of those tiny fibers if you guys want that as well because it looks a bit odd I tihnk..

This is often described as 'hairy'. Short-staple fiber denim (as Paul T already mentioned). Most American production textile cotton comes from less-expensive crop (not Sea-Isle) and is shorter-staple (whereas arid-area Zimbabwe and many Egyptian varieties have longer fibers).

The 'hairiness' of the denim will dissapear very quickly with wear and abrasion and will become smooth. It's just the fabric shedding loose cotton fiber. Even longer-staple denim has a preliminary shedding period. All jeans will show 'hairiness' in the first few weeks if you look closely.

I don't know much about where Cone sources their cotton, (if it's Southern or Texan), but it's good stuff and not cheap or overly processed. I've never seen any Cone denim look anything but beautiful with wear.

hey guys i was wondering....

well i am new to lvcs and recently picked up a pair of factory one-rinse raw cone mills 47's. the color and construction are phenomenal but i have one beef... the denim is not nearly rigid enough to produce any kind of creases whatsoever

Short answer is that any effort to make the jeans stiffer (like starch) is, essentially, cheating. Wear them as intended and let them develop fades as the cut and denim dictate. It's counterproductive and even bad for the denim to use starch for many reasons, and looser, softer denim won't take well to added starch anyway.

If you want fast faders, buy Skull or Flat Head. LVC and some of the most faithful Japanese repros will be slower faders not just because of looser cuts but also the dyeing process and denim characteristics.

Bump.....................

Did anyone else notice that they're using the photos of the 44s for the 47s?

I did notice that. Surpised that Mauro let that slip. Might cause some confusion.

Many thanks on the sizing advice everyone. I picked up a pair with an '07 made-date on the Supermarket, so wasn't sure.

future reference, if you aren't sure you wanna keep a pair of jeans you shouldn't hem them :\

free bump, someone shorter should get on these.

I'm not a noob, dude, and there's reasons for selling jeans other than uncertainty about the cut. Thanks for the bump.

NWT Red-D sold.

About $220. That's pretty much everywhere.

http://www.shopfarinellis.com/ms-90-2-lvc.aspx

'47 owners: just want to verify one thing:

LVC '47s are still 1" smaller than tagged waist, right? And they shrink an additional inch with hot soak?

What's the logic to that? Should I expect that these will stretch 2" back to the tagged size?

Awesome. I'm sold.

Heading to NY this weekend and will be taking another look at the 811, but I have a question for any Flat Head/Eternal owners:

Would you say the Eternal 811 denim is like the FH 3001/BSP denim once soaked? FH denim is pretty smooth, but has fairly pronounced long vertical slubs too once broken in. The Etrnal 811 denim looks really similar. So hard to tell even from evo pics though...

Is downsizing one on the 66xx foolish? Not looking for a snug fit, but I'm often between sizes. I had success with downsizing one on WH 660s, and even on Evisu.

Is this a stretchier denim, or will I be suffering for days after every wash?