yung_flynn

Some cool Orrizonti era Type 1 and Type 2 jackets for decent to good prices in somewhat reasonable sizes, including some extremely cropped Type 2's. Some of these are pre-1997 too without Orrizonti printed on the tag. DENIME 旧ドゥニーム 90s デニムジャケット ジージャン 2ndタイプ 507 オリゾンティ 濃紺 M （w-8420706） item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN DENIME 旧ドゥニーム　オリゾンティ　506XX 1st 44 　検）ウェアハウス　コナーズ　TCB　フルカウント　マッコイズ　506　507　557　501 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN Old DENIME Denim 507XX 2nd 44 Skin Patch One Wash Degree Super Beautiful Inspection Warehouse Connors TCB Full Count 506 577 501 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN Old DENIME Denime 507XX 2nd XL Paper Patch Unused Inspection Warehouse Connors TCB Full Count McCoys 506 577 501 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN There's a well worn, but good condition size 44 Orrizonti-era DNM 101j too for ca. $100 USD 旧DENIME ドゥニーム 101-Jタイプ 44　オリゾンティ 検）ウェアハウス　コナーズ　TCB　フルカウント　マッコイズ　506　577　501 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN (I went to close an old tab on my desktop and got sucked into a jacket wormhole, as evidenced by this post and my Sugar Cane M series one).

This M11026 is a little on the smaller side (51 cm pit-to-pit), but it seems like it's in great shape for not a bad price 【濃紺】 SUGAR CANE　【 S506 1st デニムジャケット M11026Q】 シュガーケーン ファースト 大戦 Gジャン 25050583 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN A little more worn jacket (no code in the listing) in a similar size for an even lower price. SUGAR CANE◆Gジャン/-/デニム/IDG/1st TYPE item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN Sadly, both are probably a tad too snug for me in the chest and short in the sleeves

Rockets are getting a much needed wash so I’ve been in my TCB 50s and SC41001 instead Ebbets Field/J Press/TCB/Tony Lama Here is a better shot of the boots along with some bonus TCB roping and train tracks. They’re caribou Tony Lama gold label snip toes, probably from the 70-80s

Damn 35 inch once washed inseam. Short inseams usually help my impulse control. The Gardener are mercifully sold out in 31 though I like the look of these at a quick glance though. The pocket bag colors are particularly nice. That oxidized Slash Overall denim also caught my eye, but mercifully those jeans are likely too short and too much of a hassle to obtain

Celluloid has the S3100VX in a 33 waist (and also 31 and 32 if anyone else is interested) for the JP domestic price - no tabs or arcs though. Similar to Fullcount, I think that Celluloid may be the cheapest place to get Samurai stuff now after they adjusted their international pricing model. Ordering from them is pretty painless too. Samurai Jeans S3100VX Zero + Taisen Model Wide Straight 17oz Zero + Selvedge Denim SAMURAI JEANS 2025 - Celluloid Self Edge seems to have stock of both the 3000 and 3100 models as well - no arcs or tabs either though.

Denime/Cushman/TCB/Whites I pulled my pair of TCB 50s out for the first time in a while and remembered how much I like the texture that these get as they fade they’re an interesting faded contrast to the new Denime denim too which gets a lot more electric blue in the higher wear regions

Bringing the TCB 1890S out again now that the weather is getting warmer TCB x 2/Whitesville/Whites

There's a size 38 jacket as well for 50,000 yen with around a 20" pit-to-pit if anyone is small enough to fit it and is interested. It's still not cheap, but better than 100k

Back from the beach and back in the Rockets Denime/Brooks Brothers/Hollows/Rockets/Rancourt

I saw this from a Standard and Strange sales associate about the black 20s pair. it sounds like the product description once they’re up on the site “S&S x Ooe 10 Year Anniversary Jeans: These are cut with a tall mid-rise (right at the border of what we'd consider high-rise) as well as plenty of room through the seat and thighs. The legs are straight almost the entire way down, with a silhouette and details that were inspired by a pair of jeans from 1935 — the same year that the original Ooe Tailor Shop (run by Ryo's grandfather) was founded. It's a comfortable jean that goes with almost anything, a really classic shape that's not exaggerated in either direction, flatteringly relaxed without being too baggy or oversized. The denim is special, as Ooe almost never produces black jeans. Woven from 100% cotton yarns, it's a raw and unsanforized (shrink-to-fit) black & gray selvedge denim with a soft hand and a slightly hairy face texture. Produced exclusively for Ooe by a small mill in Japan, it's a low-contrast dark denim that will slowly develop fades throughout similar to an indigo denim (though these fades will be less dramatic than indigo, and will take a longer time and/or more wear to develop to a similar level). It's packed with old-school details, from the two-prong buckleback to the 100% cotton thread used throughout, with exposed copper rivets, iron suspender buttons around the waistband, and a classic five pocket configuration. The fly hides a special little embellishment, with the inner piece being cut from a dark indigo denim hidden behind the outer black/gray fabric. This funny detail is a nod to the very first pair of jeans Ooe made — having found a stash of deadstock denim hidden away in the back of an old warehouse, they pulled what they believed to be a dark indigo fabric that was by their admission very hard to distinguish from black denim. This ultimately led to the accidental blending of multiple different fabrics during production, a humorous and memorable experience that has shaped Ooe's work to this day. These are an unsanforized aka "shrink-to-fit" denim. They will come in by about 10% during the first few washes, depending on the temperature of the water and how the jeans are dried. On average, this shrinkage amounts to approximately ~2 inches in the waist and ~3 inches in the inseam. Be aware that exact post-wash measurements can vary depending on how the denim is washed and dried (temperature and method). The sizing and fit on these is notably different to previous runs of Ooe denim. While other runs of Ooe jeans are sized by their raw measurements (for example, a pair tagged as size 32 measure to 32" in the waist before a wash, and then to 30" after washing), this run is tagged by size after a wash — so a size 32 measures roughly 34" in the waist before a wash, and then 32" after washing. In short, previous runs shrink from tag size, and this run shrinks to tag size.”

@chicote Thanks! @Double 0 Soul I really like the fit of these and I'm happy that I erred on the side of caution. I can wear a size 31 in modern day one-wash Sugar Cane 1947's, but it's a bit of a squeeze after a wash. I probably could have gotten into a size 32 for the M41001 without too much issue, but my waist is not getting any slimmer than it is today. I generally like to size on the conservative end anyway to get a little extra rise and thigh room since I'm pretty big for my waist size. I feel like the pattern is more balanced that way.

As promised, here are the waist measurements before and after shrinking. Here are the tabulated measurements for the M41001 before and after shrinking. I shrunk these by machine washing in warm water and line drying. Measurements given as before/after/% change in both centimeters and inches. Waist: 41.5 cm/38.5 cm/8% 16.5"/15.2"/8% Front Rise: 33 cm/30.5 cm/7.7% 13"/12"/7.7% Thigh at crotch:33 cm/32 cm/3% 13"/12.7"/3% Thigh @ 10 cm down: 32.5 cm/30.5 cm/4% 12.5"/12"/4% Leg Opening: 24 cm/22.5 cm/6.5% 9.5"/8.9"/6.5% Inseam: 91.5 cm/86.5 cm/5% 36"/34.25"/5% Also some post-shrinking fit pics are below.

@MJF9 I like the look of those S3100VX's. I kind of lost track of Samurai because they had too many models for me to remember and their limited editions did not really appeal to me, I had kind of forgotten that I have always liked their simpler models. I feel like they usually look good on most people too, including cuts that do not really appeal to me. @Geeman I also had a pair of S211VX briefly. I realized that they were far too tapered for my taste and to be practical for me because the leg opening circumference was smaller than my foot, which is a struggle as a big guy with a small waist. I got rid of mine when I decided that I couldn't and didn't want to struggle trying to pull my feet through, especially once we had a newborn. The fit was pretty well done though even if it was not my usual preference. It didn't really have the carrot look that I do not like for most tapered cuts. I don't remember anything like that pocket issue, but most of my attention was directed at the leg opening

I'm dropping a few more photos that I captured of the M41001, which I missed the first time. Jeans are now in process of being shrunk. I will show the before and after measuring tape photos of the waist along with fit once they've fully air dried (probably later in weekend or next week). The back of all the fly buttons are stamped with "S"

Back of top button has the S stamp

Denime/Vintage Frostproof/Hollows/Buzz/Franks My first photo attempt was in front of our cedar planks but sun flares creeped into frame at that time of day in that spot

My pair of cloth patched M41001's arrived this afternoon. They definitely seem rigid and deadstock from 1997 with the shrink-to-fit sticker still attached. There was no cardboard flasher though. Was there one at some point or did this model not have one? I was in a bit of a hurry, but I tried to snap a few detail shots for posterity's sake. I plan to shrink these when a get a chance (either this weekend or in a few weeks). Let me know if there are any others that you'd like me to snap beforehand or if there are any that you would like a more ca refully focused shot of. Photo resolution should be better if you click on the image. I have raw measurements as well and will post before and after fit photos and measurements once they're shrunk

For what it's worth, the No. 2 blouse is a really nice jacket for warmer weather. I find the huge and flapless pocket very handy as well. The No. 2 jeans are pretty great for hot weather too. Mine got a lot of mileage last summer, but much less so in the winter. I can see how the price differential for the No. 2 blouse compared to the 20s jacket isn't the most appealing though if all one wants is just a lighter weight Type 1 for summer. The details for the No. 2 are pretty fun at least

I have a few in WAYWT and a few others that I found. No back pics since the initial wear in the cross post above

@Broark My pair are tagged 32. They started at 16.75” laid flat. After one cold wash and hang dry they shrunk to 15.5”. With wear, another wash, and some more wear, they have equilibrated at 16.1”. They probably would have stretched a bit more if I sized for a tight initial fit but I sized conservatively. As they’ve stretched, the fit has relaxed a bit so that they hang from my hips. Kato-San was very helpful with sizing help. I was on the fence between 31 and 32. I told him that I generally prefer jeans that measure 41 cm laid flat and he said that either would work but recommended the 32 because they wouldn’t stretch much further than my waist and would have better balance. I just measured now and they’re 41 cm on the nose.

Cross-post of my chambray pocket bagged s0001xx before washing. Cross-post of that same pair (including measurements) after washing.

Some details from the Rockets site are pasted below. All taken from Rockets's site. Thorough dissection of original jeans. Ordering needs to be done by Instagram outside of Japan however (probably only thing that I've used IG for personally). Custom stamped and engraved hidden rivets: Twisted tab Front button Front rivets 1937 model cinch

I feel like enough people probably have pairs from Rockets now and that there is enough chatter about them in the Unknown Japanese Brands thread that they can get their own thread. There is also limited information on the brand that I could easily find, so it would be nice to have it documented as best as possible here. Most of the information below comes from their website and some chatting with Kato-san. Rockets have been around since 1994 (which is actually longer than Warehouse, the last of the Osaka 5) and were founded by Yasunobu Kato. However, it's unclear to me if they have been producing denim since the beginning. They've historically offered a 1937 cut (0003xx model) a WW2 cut (this s0001xx model), a 1947 (0002xx model), and a 1966 cut (SB-100). Kato-san can also customize a pair for you to cover some of the transitional early war models. WW2 models are offered with either olive HBT or chambray pocket bags. There are also several models of WW2 era jackets with various details, including with and without pocket flaps, although I do not know much about these since the sleeves are too short for me. The primary claim to fame and specialty of Rockets has been their WW2 models and their denim which is known for its heavy lap fades and whiskers. The phrase "Tiger Moustache" on their patches refers to the way in which these whiskers resemble those on a tiger. Kato-san has spent years analyzing vintage fabric from the era to best replicate it, matching the yarn count of the era. It's unclear where the denim is milled. According to the owner Kato-san, the yarns used in the denim have been dyed more than 12 times, so the denim is very dark and will be slow to fade compared to Warehouse or new Denime. After a wash, the denim is a very dark blue that is almost grey/black in appearance with a gritty and coarse handfeel. It creases easily and quickly gets some electric blue highlights, so I can see how these jeans get such pronounced whiskering. In talking with Kato-san, the 1937 model uses the same denim as the WW2 models sold by Rockets. I'm not sure about the 1947 model (although I would guess that it's also the same) and I'm very unclear what is used for the 1966 model (not sure if I've even seen a photo of a pair). Four types of cotton thread are used to sew the garments: No. 30, No. 20, No. 8, and No. 6. The waist is seen with thick No. 6 and No. 8 threads, while the selvedge is sewn with No. 6 thread, consistent with Kato-san's vintage models. The hem is wrapped in four pieces as was typical for vintage pairs prior to the 1960's. Threads are dyed orange and yellow based on estimates for the era. The dyes used on the threads are also selected for low fastness, so they will fade along with the denim. Rockets models also come with a red rayon tab labelled "Venus". The tab is designed to twist significantly after washing. Rockets also owns 3 Union Special sewing machines Rockets have also taken a lot of care to reproduce the style and character of buttons and rivets and buttons of the era. Laurel donut top buttons are used for the WW2 pairs, while iron body buttons are used on the 1937 and 1947 models. WW2 models with chambray pocket bags seem to use iron body buttons for the rest of the fly, while donut buttons are used for the fly of the HBT versions. All buttons are iron and are designed to rust. Front pocket rivets were designed to have a diameter of 10 mm, consistent with vintage rivets. According to the Rockets site, most front rivets used by other brands are 9 mm in diameter. Two types of front rivets are used - copper and iron plated. Hidden rivets are a non-standard shape to capture the shape of those seen on War models. Rockets hand stamps their hidden rivets into the desired shape and then hand engraves them. Rockets offers several versions of their models. There is a standard version where all hardware is new. There is also a "Craft" version, where you can select to use already oxidized hardware. Rockets also offers a "Tailor Made" line of models that are more expensive than their standard "Factory Made" models. Taylor Made models are about 15,000 yen more expensive. The 1937 model seems to be sold as Taylor Made with a claim of being sewn on a vintage machine. I chatted with Kato-san, but I wasn't quite able to learn what this meant in terms of final product, so I just went with a standard model for myself. I will try to add some more details and edit as I have time and learn more. I will also try to locate and cross-post some of the stray pairs found in the WW2 and Unknown Japanese Brands threads here too as I find the time

I find the fetishization of uncomfortable jeans fascinating. I can't imagine choosing to put on pants that are miserable to wear, much less paying exorbitant prices to do so.

I saw these and couldn't help but chuckle. Weird Guy - Super Heavyweight 40oz Selvedge | Naked & Famous Denim – Tate + Yoko Take a look at the patch (30 oz of cowhide): The owner gave them a ringing endorsement: "Naked & Famous Denim Owner, Brandon Svarc, likes to joke 'Guaranteed uncomfortable or your money back.'" They are also perversely shrink-to-fit with only the loosest of shrinkage estimates and in a slim tapered cut which feels like a recipe for fit disaster, especially at $2000.