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willi

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Everything posted by willi

  1. I disagree with the premise that aesthetic value is only a matter of opinion. Not liking Wrangler designs is an opinion, but it's not true that Wrangler designs are unstylish. Here is the proof: Buttoning the top button of your denim jacket on the other hand...
  2. I feel lighthearted about it and I would never tell someone what to do in public. But I also think it's true that almost no one has ever looked good with the top button of a denim jacket buttoned. The only exception is just the very top two buttons buttoned, but you need to be a certain type of dude to pull that off. Bottom button is also bad but is less egregious.
  3. Maximum of 2 if it's the top layer. You can button more if it's under a coat but the top must never be buttoned. It's the law.
  4. willi

    TCB

    Not positive what would qualify as a 'rough' denim. Texture to the hand? Firmness? I would describe the 50s denim as light, pliant and irregular / uneven. Late 40s denim is opposite: stiff and regular / even. I would also characterize the 50s denim as 'lively' and the late 40s denim as 'flat'. What is the professional terminology that fabric people use and what do they actually measure?
  5. Oh I see what you mean, my mistake.
  6. I don't think that's the case, I think it's closer to (if not the same as) the suede that's used in the desert chukka I linked above. JL's standard m-43 is a roughout chromexcel leather.
  7. JL stopped using crepe soles for a while and took some time to find a new supplier. They've done a more recent run of the desert chukka with the new crepe sole, I don't know anything about how to new one compares. Franklin and Poe still have a few of the desert chukkas from that run around: https://franklinandpoe.com/collections/john-lofgren-bootmaker/products/john-lofgren-military-desert-boots-japanese-suede-sand?variant=46881434140918 . I've checked these out but I've given up on the JL lasts for my feet.
  8. Country of origin matters in the case of Mystery Ranch because of the legacy of the brand dating back to Dana Design in the 1980s. If Freewheelers started mass manufacturing in Vietnam, it might technically still be a good pair of jeans, but it wouldn't mean the same thing to consumers in the know. Not a critique of consumers who just want to buy a backpack, I don't judge anyone who buys their jeans at Kohls either. But it's a loss for people who care about this stuff.
  9. thanks for the info... that's a bummer to hear though. Dana must really be hanging them up this time.
  10. Is your mystery ranch pack made in USA? I took a look at their line a little while ago and got the impression they were not the same business they were ~15 years ago when I was in the market for expedition packs. I really don't know though.
  11. Consider buying orange tab 517s off ebay for like 30 bucks. I don't think there a lot of repros of that style but the cut is exactly as you describe.
  12. This is what we always tell ourselves
  13. Those are from Workers https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/collections/workers
  14. Those vibram gumlite soles are excellent for a derby if you want to wear them through the fall and winter. I have them on my russell moc oxfords.
  15. willi

    Warehouse

    Awesome shirt and cool reference! Glad you are putting miles on it! I don't like this year's colorways as much or I buy a new one in 44.
  16. willi

    Warehouse

    Thanks, would you mind sharing the shoulder measurement? Chin strap models are narrow in the arms relative to the 3104 flannels.
  17. willi

    Warehouse

    please post measurements post wash!
  18. willi

    TCB

    I'm wearing my new S40s today. Pattern has broken in really well on me. I think this will end up being one of TCBs best models, alongside 50s.
  19. willi

    Warehouse

    This is a great find! Thank you!
  20. I want these stupid godzilla pants https://hinoya.shop/en-us/collections/whats-new/products/gz-012
  21. willi

    TCB

    The longer my Cats Drive jeans hang around the more I like them. Recently I heard a line that a suit needs to hang for a year before it's ready to be worn (can't remember exact wording or attribution on this). Maybe this is where I'm ending up as well. Once I own something for a year, I know for sure whether I want to wear it or put it on ebay. Cats Drive is passing that smell test for me.
  22. I will be in Leipzig and then Berlin for work in the second week of January. Any recommendations for things to do and see? My first time in Germany.
  23. willi

    TCB

    Much stiffer and more even than the no 2. The uneven yarn size is not obvious from handling the denim. It's one of the crunchier denims they've commissioned, in the hand it feels more like the Cats Drive Leepro stuff from last year than the original s40.
  24. willi

    TCB

    Many smaller shops carry a few items but Bears is probably the best option for buying TCB other than the factory store. Bears carries almost everything TCB produces, all standard items and most special releases. It's also cheaper to buy from Bears now that TCB started charging extra + shipping for international orders, you can still get the old factory price from Bears. Unfortunately none of the North American retailers listed here still carry TCB. Not sure about the other regions but this page probably hasn't been updated in a long time.
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