willi

more storm rider inspo.

For example, Rancourt sells a tassel loafer in shell for 705: https://www.rancourtandcompany.com/collections/loafers/products/tassel-loafer-color-8-cordovan The shoe is frankly not in good taste. You can pay less for a more coherent Alden tassel loafer in suede: https://dashingchicago.com/products/alden-3403-snuff-suede-tassel-loafer Of if you are committed to shell you can pay a little more to just get the genuine article: https://dashingchicago.com/products/alden-563-color-8-shell-cordovan-tassel-loafer Not a big knock on Rancourt, I am a fan of the brand, but Alden's pricing is very reasonable for what you get. They sell a more premium product that demands a higher price point. Definitely not a rip off.

Here are my camp mocs in buckaroo. I don't think they make this model anymore. I'll add that I don't think Rancourt as a brand really competes with Alden, it's a very different product. The same is true of Grant Stone which I also like and own. If you want Aldens you really should just buy Aldens. I think their pricing is really reasonable and surprisingly stable considering how many other brands have reached upwards into the same tier. Especially if you are buying premium leathers. Aldens in shell are not much more expensive than Rancourts in shell.

How do you like the size of your loafers compared to your mocs? Do you wear the same size on both lasts? I have camp mocs in buckaroo that I like a lot. It's a great option for a casual American style.

My experience with TCB's sizing is that there's a lot of variation between pieces, but the charts are accurate. For jackets at least; their "waist flat" vs "waist around" measurements are still a mystery to me. I generally agree that going small is risky though.

I'm going to gamble a little and size down a bit from my usual TCB measurements. I think a Storm Rider should fit like Ralph's. Although I think Ralph wears a 60s era jacket that probably has a less bulky lining than this one will, and the TCB will have a bit of added dress length.

^^ Won't Blue Owl do it?

Here's my lined type 1 from a few years ago. It's very supple after a few years of wear, like a blanket. It has a gentle fade that only pops in sunlight, it's not well described by the image compression here. Never washed. edit: I'll mention. After my dog, this might be my favorite thing that I own. The sizing on the Storm Rider looks a little unusual. I laid this one to measure and sanity check myself. This size 46 measures the same as a 42 on the Storm Rider size chart.

That would be interesting to see. Manufacturing transparency is one of the biggest draws to TCB for me. It's cool to see so much of the process, and who is involved.

That's a great price! I think at its heart it is a very casual boot that pairs well with denim, even if many folks will look at the brogue and think "dress shoe". I bought myself Grant Stone loafers and chelseas on discount as well...

TCB teasing a Storm Rider repro is a pretty fucked up thing to do to me with all of the lined jackets I've already bought from them.

If you love the idea of brogueing on a casual boot, Crockett and Jones makes a similar boot that is more harmonious I think: https://us.crockettandjones.com/collections/islay/products/islay-darkbrown-scotch-grain . The pull strap matches the overall look of the boot and doesn't pop straight up. The broguing runs straight up and terminates at the top of the boot rather than awkwardly floating parallel 1/2 inch below the top. The leather has a character that blends better with brogueing. Obviously the Tricker is a classic boot, so what do I know, but the Crocket and Jones boot has a much clearer identity to my eye.

Unfortunately you have to go through a retailer to pre-order Workers overseas. I've had mixed success trying to do this, and it's become more difficult over the last year or so as the stores I'm used to using have either gone out of business or outsourced their overseas shipping to proxy services that don't work as well. Let me know if you have success pre-ordering! By the way, I own oxfords I like from workers, beams, kamakura, and gitman. Workers are my favorite, but the sizing is limited and the fit a little unusual compared to these others brands. Each shirt is very different, I would recommend all of them in different cases depending on how they're going to be worn.

Well, it's an excuse to post a photo of my melton vest from Workers, reproduced from the style of Willis and Geiger. I have a lot of fondness for this garment. The store that I bought it from is going out of business, and from what I can understand reading Japanese blogs, it's become very difficult to produce these kinds of items with the current economic situation. Melton, corduroy, and many other fabrics seem to be in real danger of falling out of an already niche market entirely. Hopefully I am wrong. I think there is something unique and especially beautiful about reproduction compared to vintage: sewing the accumulated cultural meaning back into the garment and putting it onto a new generation to write the next chapter. I also get great reactions wearing this. "... Are you wearing a wool vest?". Why yes I am.

I'm not sure about untreated synthetics, but melton wool might be a good alternative material for a warm vest if your priority is chemical free. I have a melton wool vest from Workers Co. Japan that I layer with a denim jacket in the winter.

Thanks, yes it's too bad. There's nothing like flipping through a catalog and then calling around to find out who is going to stock the pieces you like. Part of the pleasure for me.

Does anyone know where to reliably find Warehouse/Denime seasonal catalogs? They don't keep it updated online, but retailers must get digital copies. I'm always curious what their flannel patterns are going to be each year.

Can you share a color sample? Check Hinoya's house brand chinos: https://hinoya.shop/en-us/collections/restock-info/products/401z-60?variant=35102072570009

That's a wonderful shoe. Changing my mind about brogueing on a blucher.

I wouldn't be shocked if they don't do one this year.

Here is TCB's latest lined jacket, pictured with 30s jean for contrast. They've suggested this could be their last lined jacket, at least on an annual cycle, which would be a relief for my wallet as I've bought each of the last 3 models. Overall very happy with this jacket putting it on the the first time. It is especially pliant and soft, including the lining which makes it comfortable to wear with just a t-shirt. I'm not sure if they will put more of these up for sale once they're done with size exchanges on the pre-order but they often do. I'm looking forward to what they produce next now that they've closed a few chapters of their design philosophy this year.

Cashmere is a wonderful functional material for a scarf. Begg, O'Connell's are options there, there are many others. Anyone who makes high quality cashmere sweaters likely sells a cashmere scarf. If you'd like something cheaper, Polo wool scarves are iconic. Scarves are a great thing to buy second hand on ebay as they are usually lightly worn and as good as new if made from high quality materials. edit: I love tartan pattern on scarves, like this one from de bonne facture: https://nomanwalksalone.com/collections/de-bonne-facture/products/scottish-scarf-in-red-green-and-gold-tartan-plaid-wool. Secondhand polo scarves on ebay are a great way to try something like this.

TCB denim inseams are cut very long on pattern. Especially considering they only sell one wash. Warehouse unwashed inseams ship shorter than washed TCBs.

Aside from hemming raw/ hemming after first wash, what do you think of this chain stitch? Different pair on the left, original hem in the middle, new hem on the right. The new stitching looks messy to me, but I'm not sure what's a reasonable margin for error here.

I committed a denim blunder, I'm sure someone here can explain my mistake. I recently ordered a pair of TCB 50s that I wanted to wear in a specific way: uncuffed with the hem draped just over the top of a shoe to feature the roping. I asked for them to be hemmed to the length I needed at point of purchase, thinking this would be the best way to preserve the really nice chainstitching this jean features. The result is not what I expected: The original hem (cutting was mailed to me) is on the left, the new hem is on the right. The original hem is perfect, the new hem is characterless. What I think I'm just realizing, is that this you only get this perfect hem when the jean is washed for the first time, shrinking and pulling the hem askew. If the jean if hemmed after the first wash, you're stuck with a flat hem. Is that right? Will this hem gain any character from subsequent washings or is it toast?