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willi

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  1. willi
    I disagree with the premise that aesthetic value is only a matter of opinion. Not liking Wrangler designs is an opinion, but it's not true that Wrangler designs are unstylish. Here is the proof: Buttoning the top button of your denim jacket on the other hand...
  2. willi
    I feel lighthearted about it and I would never tell someone what to do in public. But I also think it's true that almost no one has ever looked good with the top button of a denim jacket buttoned. The only exception is just the very top two buttons buttoned, but you need to be a certain type of dude to pull that off. Bottom button is also bad but is less egregious.
  3. willi
    Maximum of 2 if it's the top layer. You can button more if it's under a coat but the top must never be buttoned. It's the law.
  4. willi

    TCB

    willi replied to Maynard Friedman's topic in superdenim

    Not positive what would qualify as a 'rough' denim. Texture to the hand? Firmness? I would describe the 50s denim as light, pliant and irregular / uneven. Late 40s denim is opposite: stiff and regular / even. I would also characterize the 50s denim as 'lively' and the late 40s denim as 'flat'. What is the professional terminology that fabric people use and what do they actually measure?
  5. willi
    Clarks are great
  6. willi
    Oh I see what you mean, my mistake.
  7. willi
    I don't think that's the case, I think it's closer to (if not the same as) the suede that's used in the desert chukka I linked above. JL's standard m-43 is a roughout chromexcel leather.
  8. willi
    JL stopped using crepe soles for a while and took some time to find a new supplier. They've done a more recent run of the desert chukka with the new crepe sole, I don't know anything about how to new one compares. Franklin and Poe still have a few of the desert chukkas from that run around: https://franklinandpoe.com/collections/john-lofgren-bootmaker/products/john-lofgren-military-desert-boots-japanese-suede-sand?variant=46881434140918 . I've checked these out but I've given up on the JL lasts for my feet.
  9. willi
    Country of origin matters in the case of Mystery Ranch because of the legacy of the brand dating back to Dana Design in the 1980s. If Freewheelers started mass manufacturing in Vietnam, it might technically still be a good pair of jeans, but it wouldn't mean the same thing to consumers in the know. Not a critique of consumers who just want to buy a backpack, I don't judge anyone who buys their jeans at Kohls either. But it's a loss for people who care about this stuff.
  10. willi
    thanks for the info... that's a bummer to hear though. Dana must really be hanging them up this time.
  11. willi
    Is your mystery ranch pack made in USA? I took a look at their line a little while ago and got the impression they were not the same business they were ~15 years ago when I was in the market for expedition packs. I really don't know though.
  12. willi
    Consider buying orange tab 517s off ebay for like 30 bucks. I don't think there a lot of repros of that style but the cut is exactly as you describe.
  13. willi
    This is what we always tell ourselves
  14. willi
    Those are from Workers https://bears-tokyo.myshopify.com/collections/workers
  15. willi
    Those vibram gumlite soles are excellent for a derby if you want to wear them through the fall and winter. I have them on my russell moc oxfords.
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