ATWM
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Everything posted by ATWM
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^ damn. This probably makes no sense since I’ve internalized $250 being worth it for a pair of jeans sometimes, and more even for jackets - but I can’t make that jump with a whole lot else. Those are some pricey shirts! I’d be checking my local thrift store first… how value is so subjective.
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^ fantastic find. This is one of my favorite items that I have. If I ever found another in my size I’d get it again just for backup.
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Idk about yall but I definitely shoot for unflattering when I am sizing raw/unwashed. It remains to be seen if I ever land on flattering after the process is over but if they’re flattering when raw I’m typically a bit concerned about comfort, at the very least.
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I don't know how amenable you'd be to crowdsourcing ideas @rodeo bill but given the place based ethos you expressed in the recent newsletter I'm curious if you'd ever entertain using pokeweed to dye a batch of something. It's an American native and can yield some really nice reds with the right mordants. https://www.motherearthnews.com/diy/pokeberry-dye-recipe-ze0z1801zmos/ Even better because it's a plant a lot of people dislike and is poisonous but is kind of amazing in its own way (like milkweed).
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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
ATWM replied to minya's topic in superdenim
My perception (which is just that, and nothing more) has always been the same - looks very much like a marketing move. I’ve only seen a pair in person once but I couldn’t discern any quality difference. Lots of brands will use a pattern as a selling point. At some level cost of materials is ancillary and brands use prices to position themselves in certain ways. Boncoura has the makeup of a brand that looks to care about that more than most repro brands. Wasn’t the brand started by a former white collar guy who wears Rolex and collects designer furniture? Those things sort of point me further towards the perception that they believe a strong brand is a sort of luxury marker worth a percentage of the margin on its own. -
My experience so far is different - I did the first three washes by hand though - hang dry. Very minimal marbling. Not close to what my WH 1003xxs are (which I am pretty sure are the pair that was adopted to the Signet contest jeans - or at least the same denim, I just got the regular run before the contest). That pair does have some decent marbling. Finally did a machine wash and didn't notice much marbling either - they may have gotten past that point. That said, I'm currently without my pair as they get some darning done and I expect to only machine wash and wash more frequently, so we'll see if anything changes but it could be awhile.
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This contingent seems to be an international phenomenon - or at least very widespread- at least in my limited experience. It exists where I live and in many places I’ve seen. For better or worse I wasn’t much different from right now. I wore the same Birkenstock Bostons or more low profile/understated skate shoes. I never wore runners casually - probably because I ran competitively and they were shoes for a specific purpose for me, always. Main difference now is I much more often wear nicer leather boots or shoes. As far as the rest of it, still jeans and a t shirt/sweatshirt most of the time - similar cuts even. I never went into the skinny thing, always hate stretch in my pants even before I knew what raw denim was. I had some corduroy Sherpa lined type 3 off by a skate brand called Matix and a twill chore from a cheap mall brand. Main differences now is the jeans are nicer, I have more jackets which are mostly denim not corduroy and (on some days) the sweats are nicer loopwheeled versions, but on many days no - and both of them have logos or designs on them much less often than used to be the case. Oh, and in the winter more wool pullovers, for sure. But again, just sort of a nicer version of what I wore 25 years ago.
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Early 2000s revival?! I thought we were all here because it’s sometime between 1920 (or 1890) and the early 1960s all day every day, and we prefer it that way. but I don’t think it works like that in recycling decades anymore, it’s more like time has collapsed and everything from all times is always happening - a fashion plurality, if you will. Thanks internet.   Yes the 90s has been a bit of the stronger thread but - at least if the kids on massive college campus near me are anything to go by - the 60s, 70s and 80s are still in style. Skinny jeans still abound even, but seem to be stuck more on professors and grad students.
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@julian-wolf my limited experience so far tells me even that with gentler washes these are gonna keep shrinking a touch - I bet if you give it a good hot one now you’ll just end up where you might have in a few months anyways?
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^ For me this is the one that got away. I’ve kept my eye out for a pair to no luck. Nice to see them! I hope FW does another ‘46 iteration at some point.
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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
ATWM replied to minya's topic in superdenim
^ With that story I really want you to find those pants. What are the chances that what he was actually wearing was just some Dickies or Dockers or something? -
Freewheelers x 2, Two Moon, Duke, Tender
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SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
ATWM replied to minya's topic in superdenim
I was wearing black jeans and a blue denim jacket last week and got 2 (!!) random public compliments on it. That is not so common. While fully aware of my sartorial subversiveness/terrible taste, I had to giggle a little inside. -
SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
ATWM replied to minya's topic in superdenim
I knew that would get your goat, ha. -
SUPERDENIM SMALL QUESTIONS THREAD (Use instead of making new threads)
ATWM replied to minya's topic in superdenim
Not so sufu oriented but I’d look at de bonne facture - I don’t know about right now but I’m almost positive I’ve seen them make this before. If this is a pant that’s gonna get thrashed at work though, then I wouldn’t because they’re too nice for that. -
NACS is basically the Tesla charging standard. Tesla has a better network of chargers in most states than any other company, so it greatly expands your options in a pinch. That said, I haven’t gotten one yet… R3X feels like a pipe dream at this point…we’ll see if Rivian can survive getting the R2 into production. I like it too, but if it happens I would bet like…5 more years. So frustrating in my recent trip to the UK seeing all of the smaller EVs driven over there that we just can’t get over here. I digress… Plenty happy w the Volvo EV - it looks like @julian-wolf grabbed a cousin of ours.
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Drying after first real machine wash. Couple washes to this point but all done by hand. Probably no more of that. First photo is probably most accurate color. No real combs but signs of a little fraying on back of the knee where the crease is, haha. Summer is coming and soon as it is hot will probably be washing these fairly often.
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kiddos (and parents) getting reps dune climbing over the holiday weekend
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inis meain, cushman, Freewheelers, WMJ, Quoddy
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Forever ever!? Brave words…
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I’d also mention the shop in my town - it’s too funky for me by half a lot of the time, but it’s also one of the best small men’s shops in my region of the country, much better than a college town shop has any right to be. It’s honestly better than any shop even in Chicago to my mind - but when it comes to denim that’s not their overall strong suit. They stock Kapital and will be stocking Tender though. It’s fun to look at what they curate and a look through their brands might reveal something.
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@Well27 I’m a big fan of both Tender and (some of) Kapital, but part of what makes them what they are is that there are not other makers with the same style. The other brand that is more in the denim world is of course 45R, but internationally quite pricey, so I’ve avoided. A lot of (Western) stores that carry the Kapital etc are the best bet for other makers in that realm - some are Story Mfg., A Kind of Guise, Arpenteur … there are more. I’m not a big fan of them though, or rather would rather Tender or Freewheelers. A very nice workwear inspired French brand is de Bonne Facture. Pricey but sometimes more easily available, and all or mostly made in France - I like some of their stuff and have a some of their trousers. A few others I like (again, for select stuff…I wouldn’t say I’m a fan of the overall vision) are Blue Blue Japan and Cottle. Cottle is expensive to the point of laughing, so I haven’t looked for a few years but always sort of liked the approach. My other favorite is Inis Meain - specifically for wool and linen - some of the best knits I’ve come across.
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You have to decide who you are first. The answer flows from that.
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Interest check for two sugar cane 1953 jacket iterations. Both size 38. First is corduroy Sugar Cane & Co 9W Corduroy Heavy Flannel Lined Jacket Beige - SC15463 - size 38. Only worn a few times, I may or may not have the tags somewhere. https://secondsunrise.se/products/sugar-cane-co-9w-corduroy-heavy-flannel-lined-jacket-beige - for example. Second is the Sugar Cane blanket lined 1953 type 2. Model SC15210 Worn a bit, some light fading showing, washed once. https://hinoya.shop/en-us/products/sc15210?srsltid=AfmBOopvs9tYoNsiTJ9lfF0ee830H47t-l-XlTTpAjFZjCtYLKXRyZFL For example. Measurements are in line with shop provided but can get nitty gritty if you want. Can send photos upon request, will listen to offers from Sufu members before they go up.
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Back in uniform. Freewheelers, Two Moons, Freshly washed WMJ, Tender
