ATWM

Jackman makes great knits. Also, given how long the sleeves are on my Ues jacket, I would look at their thermals also. Both are priced pretty similarly, and not at IH levels.

Could well be the case. Still might be worth an inquiry, if WOM is even curious that is. American brands price in a different world and I wouldn't be surprised if their asking prices are from labor costs / market strategy as opposed to materials. I could be wrong though.

Since you’re discussing a possible denim I wonder if an order from proximity is feasible. Made with the looms from White Oak.

I'd be interested, but would need to know more to commit. (I'm not joking about the pizza inspired arcs) Honestly though, like Julian, the biggest thing for me - after a good set of measurements - would probably come down to price. I rarely am willing to spend more than $250/pair and my closet now is fuller than it's ever been.

WOM jeans with pizza arcs and I’m in. Not so much as a competitor but I told y’all I want those pizza arcs. Minority here but I’d probably prefer a 50’s cut.

The attempt to make a bunch of arcane hobbies into a competition is sort of a social pathology to me. That includes my original arcane hobby - skateboarding. I don't think it very different with denim. Doesn't mean I don't understand getting sucked up in the appeal, but I have enough motivation to not want to be that guy that I've never had the chance to become disillusioned.

Focusing is finicky sticking the CFV digital backs on a 500 c/m - the split level finder he's used to isn't going to be nearly as solid as using the screen/magnification. I'm surprised he didn't check in image review, too easy not to on that! That pair looks fully loved and lived in though!

^ yea, I actually find the long fit of it quite useful, esp since I am not a fan of tucking in shirts. I could nitpick about the quality - the panels have some a few skips/runs in the linen denim actually as one might find in some seconds quality, but for being yet another denim(ish) jacket it’s a unique spot in the wardrobe and just really comfortable. Curiously, the jacket seems a shade lighter than the jeans which do not have any skips that I’ve noticed, so I wonder if it was a different batch. Even with the flaws in the denim I’m overall quite pleased with it. I’ve never found unlined denim jackets the most comfortable with short sleeves, and this one changes that. Sort of feels more like a light flannel shirt or something. I’m curious to see how it fades and if I fade the jeans or the jacket more. I’m not sure how much wear either will get after a month or so from now, but both are the best summer pieces I’ve found.

If a picture could embody much of what I personally don’t find appealing about denim community/culture - explicitly and implicitly - this is one of them. Perhaps it’s the case here, but the only way I would/have worn a fit like that is if I were riding a motorcycle (long since sold), and even then I’m wearing leather up top, not denim. I get that some people love it - more power to them.

Kid took a photo of me on pano mode. Ues/Tezo/Full Count

Pizza shaped arcs would be simultaneously silly and also might be a tipping point for me, because in the end, pants are funny. Even funnier is an interest in pants. Sometimes I wish my exquisitely made pants with such serious work put into them were a little bit more funny. Pizza and pants. Funny words. Amazing inventions. Taken for granted too often. Pants should nod to pizza. and yea @beautiful_FrEaK I think we talk about Japan b/c there's enough in Japan to sustain these businesses but outside of it we're just about the only ones in the world with the level of interest jeans where we are upset if thread isn't cotton or a jacket has handwarmer pockets or pick whatever counterintuitive detail you prefer 😃

That's so cool! And what a killer looking fam.

Thanks for this. The pizza tab! I don’t equate Japan with being a mecca in anything other than obsessing over details that I personally enjoy. When it comes to construction itself I don’t think they’re inherently better, I’ll confidently say that some of my earlier jeans from Raleigh (nc, usa workshop) and Companion (Barcelona workshop) were made every bit as well as just about anything I’ve ever gotten from Japan and in some cases notably better. I moved away from those brands because of things like pattern, details (including no cotton thread), lack of unsanforized options, and cost. Japanese brands tend to solve all of those issues. WOM seems to solve most of those issues, which is cool to see. If an American brand offered an unsanforized denim from proximity or Vidalia mills with a good pattern and cotton thread and classic details at something like a comparable cost (maybe I’d pay 10 to 20% more?) to Japan I’d love to try, for instance. But I haven’t seen it.

I don't have my pair handy but I've got this pair in a size 30, and I tend to wear 30. If anything, it's got a little give. If you normally wear 31's, I bet it will be fine - there's a chance FC missed on this pair though. In my experience they're not the most consistent in manufacturing (for instance, I have 0105 in the 11 oz denim in size 29 which fits a touch more loosely at the waist than my 30's in the 13 oz denim).

Some detail shots and a fit pic of the linen jeans. These things are so comfortable it almost feels wrong. Fabric has few, but significant neps. In general it’s a bit more irregular than the denim I’m used to wearing but nothing like those brands that make it a point. Looks like it was a bit tough to weave. Linen pocket bags are a nice touch. Worn about 4 days and like linen does the creases set quickly. Raised pocket seams are interesting. Happy with this pick up. Jacket pictures later, I don’t have it with me on this trip.

@julian-wolf30! also, now that I’ve worn these for a few hours these things have got some drape. I might have to take back that assessment of the trim seat ha. I definitely could have gone 30, but I’m happy taking the loose path here. Also fwiw my other 0105 pairs are 30, I just find the super smooth to run large.

I got these about 36 hours after the shipping notice was sent. In Michigan. From Japan. I’m not much one for write ups or anything but I will say these are highly competitive with the fullcount super smooth denim for maybe the best breezy feeling summer jeans. Actually, they probably feel better. I sized up one - to a 31 -and I’m glad I did because the seat is slightly trim even if the waist isn’t. If I’d gone 30, I think they’d have fit more like my FW 51’s, which is fine, but for linen pants I wanted more of a roomy anti-fit. My 31 fits about the same, slightly trimmer leg - than my FC’s at 29. No clue how these things will fade but pants that feel like linen and look like jeans - I’m sold! The jacket is nice too - but (and I knew this going in) is longer than a typical type 1 both in torso and in the arms. In a way I think this is more versatile, but maybe not what some people would want. I think it will wear nicely - it’s like a French worker’s jacket in cut with type 1 detailing and the drape of linen. I’ll try to get pics up next week but I’m headed out of town today for a bit.

Thanks! It's a good question - but I very much hope the focus would still be on the workers. If it wasn't, I'd have to take a minute to reflect on my priorities with my work. (Well that, and if I didn't have a pictures of people my editor would have been upset). I did make some pictures of looms, worn denim displays etc, but they just bore me, so I didn't take the time to finish them. I guess what I meant by that is that, for this forum, the post might lack the sort of niche information that might be appreciated. While I like the denim stuff, I don't and never much have found the technical stuff all that interesting - it wouldn't be interesting without the people who make it or wear it!

Man it looks like a nice jacket but phew is that a pricey one!

@NilsLW thanks. It’s maybe not my favorite set but given I had 30 minutes to work it’s okay. Some of these are a little too quickly finished maybe but I’m not sending them off for a job. There was more than I remembered when I went into the archive hence the post today.

ah - perfect. Somehow it didn't come up in search - I think because I was focusing on white oak.

I've been going through my archives lately with an eye towards photographs of workers. In 2016 I got - as my digital records indicate - 30 minutes on the famed White Oak facility floor. 8:35 - 9:05 AM. It was before I knew much about denim, and to be honest - visiting this spot was what led me to this place on the forum. When I was there, I was focused on the people and what they were doing. Not the looms, nor the displays of vintage denim. I wouldn't have even known to look at what was interesting from a technical perspective. I look back on the archive of this job and hope these folks landed on their feet but I don't know. I'm still sore that this place shut down, even though my connection to it was just this short visit. I'm grateful the workers gave me a few seconds of their time while they were juggling the multiple machines that made the floor shake. What I mostly remember was just lamenting I only had thirty minutes on the floor, it seemed that this place warranted so much more time if I wanted to due the least bit of justice to photographing the people and the space. Unfortunately I can't find my notebook from the time, which gave me the information of these people's names and more. Anyways, here are a few pictures to share from one of the later months that this facility was in operation. These are some of the awesome people that made some of the best denim that I hope a few of you are wearing. I figured starting a thread here for anything White Oak related could be suitable?

Decided to give it a go, because linen. Will report when they land.

I’ll second that - though only because mine aren’t worth posting at this point - hasn’t even gotten it’s first wash. It’s unfortunately taken a back seat to my OA jacket at the moment!

The novelty of these is more tempting to me than it should be, but linen jeans is something I’ve wished for many times. I also wouldn't be mad if people chimed in about how they found UES to fit. Sizing to me looks not on the small side for the jacket or the jeans.