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bartlebyyphonics

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Everything posted by bartlebyyphonics

  1. bartlebyyphonics

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    ^ this and yes; good to have 00 back talking blogs, balls and anaesthesia: a good start to the new year
  2. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2022 [denim edition]

    HNY u dapper ppl samo-samo... sears-italian military thermal-tcb-attractions
  3. bartlebyyphonics

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    yes! this! last stages ppl! another wash, some fits, some fabric... [where the hiders, lurkers, faders in the shadows? show them pix!]
  4. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    by the power of krystal... '01 vintage-orslow-tcb-r.mocs
  5. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    @heyson liking the cool xmas tee and double spex look!
  6. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    perfect, and perfectly crisp @MJF9! the wool liner adds toasty tastiness to the tux-party!
  7. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    thank you! and you are bring killer vintage direction/s to the thread and forum... much appreciated
  8. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    no denim today... sears-military shirt-cabourn-attractions shirt all buttoned up in homage to my new double rider style icon... ^ above taken from this thread on history of sears motor-cycle jackets, 40s-60s... @dudewuttheheck was right: what a d-pocket rabbit hole yee old lounge is...
  9. bartlebyyphonics

    Studio D'artisan

    never bought any sda, bought def looked hard at them western shirts; looking fwd 2 seeing wash results... keep up the good wrk @roomtemplacroix
  10. bartlebyyphonics

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    The tight walk / minefield to think around is the tension by which the 'moderns' defined themselves as breaking with tradition, and yet did so often through the pilfering / reworking / cultural appropriation of so-called 'traditional' cultures. Thus the West comes to be seen as the site for fashion-as-modernity, and yet it does so through accessing other cultures who are then locked into positions of being bound to 'heritage'. Thinking otherwise around new/old, modern/traditional also requires a reckoning with historical imbalances... Jamie Morgan, the photographer responsible for catching some of those key Buffalo images [styled by Ray Petri] worked fairly recently [see here and here] with Graces Wales Bonner [a designer credited with bringing diasporic narratives to the catwalk] - so I don't think that conversation is closed... I personally think the Japanese relation to American style is a very interesting aspect of this narrative; in terms of being faithful copies, a repetition of the same rather than the infinite spawning of micro-variations of difference [if you remember what was at stake in the K-Hole 'Youthmode' / normcore text I shared a while back...], but also a degree of Eastern romanticism/exoticism of the West rather than the other way round... as well as this issue of memory I cited from Jansen; memory as a rebellion against the steam-roller of the new [as long as this memory doesn't sink into swamps of nostalgia or inert narratives of lost edens] ... There is also a sense that it is an interesting uniform [exact reproductions of obscure moments in the history of the 5 pocket jean] to wear in a period where there is only the perpetual-present, where the past has become a randomised-personalised google search and we live in what Mark Fisher calls the ‘slow cancellation of the future’…
  11. bartlebyyphonics

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    there is a certain pleasure in terrorising people with essentially the same outfit on repeat for years now [with minute variations...] - although the young-uns seem most taken with the m65 military liner [I think given the flood of the quilting design on the highstreet at present]
  12. bartlebyyphonics

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    more Freudian one-liners: "The finding of an object is in fact a refinding of it"
  13. bartlebyyphonics

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    The term fashion is always up for dispute; here is the abstract to a recent academic article from M. Angela Jansen on decolonising strategies in fashion (to dispute that fashion is always the new, that the developed world is the only site for fashion/-ing, to think of the myriad practices of fashioning the body...) - abstract below and article attached... "Although eurocentrism in fashion studies has been contested for nearly four decades, the topic is as timely and urgent as ever. While critiques focus on symptoms such as discrimination, inequality and exploitation, the actual “decease,” the modernity/coloniality structure, persists. The way fashion, as a noun, is being defined according to a temporality (contemporaneity), a system (of power) and an industry (of capitalism) particular to modernity, coloniality is inherent to its definition. Whereas fashion as a verb, the act of fashioning the body, is of all temporalities and geographies and operates beyond the colonial difference. Decolonial fashion discourse constitutes a framework that enables to redefine fashion as a multitude of possibilities rather than a normative framework falsely claiming universality, to humble modernity’s narrative by recognizing its own epitomical limits, to listen to and acknowledge an episteme plurality outside of modernity and to decenter the production of knowledge in regard to fashion. It aims to critique the denial and erasure of a diversity of ways to fashioning the body due to unequal global power relations based on modern-colonial order, the Euro- American canon of normativity and the exploitation and abuse of cul- tural heritages, human beings and natural resources." see the section on critiquing fashion as the 'new' ... an extract: "Contemporary fashion as a materialization of modernity/colo- niality, imposes a time that “dismisses the past” and turns the future into a utopic promise of endless progress while other fashions are being discarded due to their relationality with the past, with memory. Memory, however, should not be considered as a conservative move; the possibility to experience the past is not essentialist, but rather rebellious (Vazquez 2009). Imperative is that memory is not idealized or disguising, not turned into a utopia, but rather memory as the past as a site of experience, a rebellion against the future oriented reason of modernity, against the reason that idealizes and disguises (Vazquez 2009)." ... She also edited this book which had this section; the chapter on Bhutan brought up the example of a Facebook page on Bhutan Street Fashion that brings up some of those contradictions of old vs/and/with new as practiced outside the 'centres of fashion'... 1362704X.2020.1802098.pdf
  14. bartlebyyphonics

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    some academic work [bobbing around the realms of art, photography, theory plus a bit of fashion and material culture]. nothing exciting
  15. bartlebyyphonics

    Denim Blunders, Reflections and General Nonsense.

    a psychoanalytic account, not of jeans but of the enjoyment linked to missing one's goal... in Lacanian psychoanalysis desire is founded on the subject's relation to a fantasmatic object-cause which doesn't exist, but certainly stimulates activity [that never to be found perfect '47 501, for example] ... equally there is a notion of drive [for Freud, trieb, in French pulsion] linked to developmental stages oral, anal, etc. - and these are firstly bodily but also entangled into symbolic processes or replaced by things/activities like smoking or hoarding, or become characteristics ... see here for characteristics of the 'anal triad': orderliness, parsimony, obstinacy ... [I say this with my own treasure-hoards of unused objects and information... ] Jodi Dean, following Lacan, makes the following point that may share light? "The circular movement of the drive is enjoyable; enjoyment, in other words, is the pleasure provided by the painful experience of repeatedly missing one's goal [my emphasis]. With respect to drive, then, the nuggets of enjoyment is not what one is trying to reach but cannot: rather, it is that little extra that adheres to the process of trying... Enjoyment results when focus shifts from the end to the means, when processes and procedures themselves provide libidinal satisfaction" [it should be noted that the word 'enjoyment' here is from Lacan's use of the French term jouissance which has a stronger cruder sexual connotation as well as an interrelation of pleasure to pain... Nestor A. Braunstein links jouissance to expenditure above positive accumulation, if linked to goods or property, jouissance should be linked to their destruction: “Jouissance appears in guilt, in remorse, in confession, in contrition, more in paying than being paid, in destroying more than conserving.”] I babble this all without judgement as I enjoy[suffer] my symptoms; searching endlessly through the affective network [Dean argues the internet itself functions via the endless circulation of drive] to find/not-quite-find images of '60s Oakbrook d-pocket double rider jackets for that [impossible] perfect one...
  16. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    mod up top, rocker below m65 parka / tcb / attractions
  17. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    thnx! they are an easy wearing piece... lots of nice shaping to the pattern beyond the craziness of the bib pocket [nice angle on the hip pockets, wide legs, but not too wide, minimal tool pockets on side seam, double not triple stitched side seam ] ... nice fabric too; almost identical to two orslow items I have... some detail pix... and comparison w/orslow army jumper... [orslow - which has had more wear and washes - on the left, tcb on the right]
  18. bartlebyyphonics

    TCB

    trying to stop my sears-spamming the waywt... but here is the tcb 'boss-of-the-cat' overalls in the 'wild' ... or a 'wild-one' meets farmer combo...
  19. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    yes! [again] yes! leather jackets time it is! [I know its not the right thread, but as we are having this conversation here...] for me right now currently very interested in / obsessing over 2 tone / 2 fabric variations... these two from aero and this looney tune from whitesville... [there is also an amazing casino one out there too]
  20. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    oh yes @Uncle Karl! a perfect perfecto what lovely boots as well! my attempt... sears-filson-tender-attractions
  21. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    ^ well, now that you mention it... ... today a 70s/40s split... sears 'leather shop' x filson x tcb x attractions
  22. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    imo the yuketen are the perfect match...
  23. bartlebyyphonics

    Happy jeans: TCBxSufu S40s WW2 contest thread

    indeed: paging all contestants! it isn't over yet!!!!! the last months are the interesting ones... no fade is too small to share! agreeing with what above comment! my small squeaks of a fade...
  24. bartlebyyphonics

    WAYWT 2021 [denim edition]

    neither! but yes; this would be the better varsity jacket perhaps... or this beauty below is better for my 'B' icon (and drag continuations... and pin additions!) thank u! hemming is my overall def. agenda right now; but for my previous 130 tenders, leaving them super long as they were more tapered and tighter fit felt right [with these sized up baggy / more voluminous 132's, however, it felt right to remove the weight, mostly wearing them uncuffed with pecos...] thank you and yes: what a small world! still a little in shock...
  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342

    silver-nose-plaster.jpgshow?id=gf39VV*YhHg&bids=818443.18799516