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FeloniousMonk

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Posts posted by FeloniousMonk


  1. My recollection was that the 18oz felt and faded a lot like the 20oz GTB denim that I have now. Those old jeans were nice enough that I felt the need to replace them, just in a larger size this time.

    Pictures of the 20oz denim fades after 6-8 months of wear are still on page 121 of this thread, or here.


  2. The 18oz GTB fabric definitely takes a while to break in, and don’t expect stretch. The fades are a bit slower than usual, but the really big difference is that this fabric stays stiffer a lot long than most denims.

    I think my old pair eventually hit about 8-10 months of wear (spread over two fall/winters), yet still stayed stiff enough that they had virtually no drape for weeks after a wash. Would add photos for the fading, but I sold that pair a couple years back since it was getting tight and the fabric was not forgiving.


  3. On 2/8/2020 at 4:30 PM, lance said:

    Is anyone aware of the Japanese brand Confect? They have a linen denim line for Spring 2020 that looks good. 

    I’ve got a shirt from them, and my wife has a dress and hoodie from their women’s line. I really like their fabric selections and style, though the men’s fits tend to be a bit voluminous.

    Our Confect clothes are about a year old now - long enough to say that they’re not bad quality (as everything is holding up extremely well), but not long enough to say that they’re notably good quality. Definitely a fan of everything so far though, and will keep checking out their seasons in the future. I’ll have to look for the denim line...


  4. @JDelage Thanks so much! That photo helps a lot, it’s definitely quite light compared to the all-coyote jacket.

    If you don’t mind, what’s your general impression of the sweatshirt - anything that stands out or is it a fairly standard loopwheeled sweat? (Admittedly a very high “standard”). And this phrasing may sound stupid, but does the sweatshirt In person come off more as a discernible color (albeit light) or as an off-white?


  5. Does anyone have an SDA FoxFibre garment in coyote that’s gone through a few washes by this point? I’m thinking about the loopwheeled sweatshirt they just released, but the stock photos appear a bit light. If it were to get a little more reddish-brown like in photos of the jacket (or darker), that would be ideal, so I’m curious if people have actually seen the cotton get noticeably darker with washing.


  6. @1fookntitefd The main advantage I see for getting unsanforized jeans raw rather than one wash is that the patch often does a lot better through a home soak. Many jeans makers have a wash/dry process that nearly turns their patches to jerky - my pairs from Full Count, Boncoura, and Momotaro in particular have patches that are fairly stiff and shriveled-looking even after a few rounds of leather conditioner.

    Other than that, maybe the denim stays a bit stiffer after a soak and line dry than from the manufacturer’s wash? But with the softening up over the initial month of wear, I doubt that would make much of a difference to the fades.


  7. @Broark I got the dark grey thermal from SE last year, and pretty much a +1 for everything @youngofthesoonest says. Super soft and comfortable, surprisingly versatile across a range of temperatures.

    If I wear it on its own, it’s fine for being in the office or generally around town, but starts feeling toasty if I’m somewhere much above 70 degrees for a while. Outside, I just wear that thermal and a denim jacket and I’m good down to 50 or so.

    I sometimes wear a t-shirt underneath to help keep it clean, but even that minor extra layer makes the combination a bit too much for the indoors.


  8. @Maynard Friedman Thanks, Kuroki mills would fit with the similar cast and fading of the Stevenson standard denim from there. Theirs and Ande’s brand-specific denims are among my very favorite so far - lots of little variation and interest that comes through in the fades while still feeling quite soft, regular, and light enough for hot weather.

    @Geeman it’s probably been about 7-8 months of heavy wear - saying “this summer” is definitely an exaggeration. I wore them every now and again since getting them in fall 2016, but never had them “in rotation”.  Around April when the weather got warm, I decided this was their year and wore them A LOT (including all the washes that come with that wear in a sticky NYC summer) until they needed their first (minor) repairs this September. Just got them back from SENY this week and can’t wait to see what next summer will do to them.


  9. Finally pulled out my standard roll Ande Whalls to start breaking in this summer. They were bought just before Andy closed up shop, with the optional shovel-head shape and partial lining on the back pockets. Really lovely lighter-weight denim, the color seemed to have a subtle greenish, greyish cast while fading that is quite unique. I wonder what mill his standard roll came from, and whose denim nowadays is probably most similar (maybe Stevenson’s?) - there’s no replacing Andy’s work, but another pair in this denim would be very welcome.

     

    Anyway, photos...

    3O6PcHq_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f

    MHnv1bh_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f

    Love these low-profile rivets, and the fading of his cotton-poly threads is impressively similar to 100% cotton.

    Q6LEAIi_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f

    Patch is starting to crack a bit and get uneven coloring despite my conditioning efforts. Such a statement chunk of leather.

    riUtS2N_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f

    5nQEbJ5_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f


  10. @altoclefchris I’ve got the G-003 from SDA, which I believe is based on the same cut, just using grey weft G3 denim rather than the indigo x indigo. On my broken-in and freshly laundered tag size 32 pair, the waist is 32” on the dot if I measure with the waist pulled taut.

    Two quick notes of caution:

    1. Although the measurements online suggest these are a mid-rise fit, they don’t rise close to my true waist which means that 32” waist measurement feels as tight as a 30.5-31” true high rise pair.

    2. Looking at the measurements on Okayama Denim and Self Edge for both models, it looks like the G-004 production run might be cut a smidge larger in sizes 31 & 32 than the G-003 run that I own.


  11. Oh yeah, and these were one wash to start. I almost always machine wash inside-out after learning that our spin cycle had a nasty habit of leaving crease marks (still not 100% at this, as too many of my jeans can attest), but when handwashing I tend to leave them normal-side-out.


  12. @Pedro thanks! They’re coming along really nicely, and I want to eventually get them to a very light fade for a comfy summer jean like some of the old pairs I’ve seen in this thread.

    I did size down one (30 vs my usual 31), and even had a local tailor do a bit of tapering from mid-thigh down to match my favorite OA02 jeans - both of which probably help the fading and especially the slight honeycombs coming in. They still ended up looking like a quite normal fit though. Just took a quick fit shot in NYC’s current overcast evening, and the fades definitely look less extreme in this more normal light.

    SivpXMQ_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f

    Since I want them to fade to an overall light color in time, they’ve been washed often. Typically handwashing every couple weeks in our tub with some normal detergent (whatever Tide was on sale) and light agitation, to preserve the patch (and between my partner and I, we usually have a few items to handwash that often anyway). Then I’ll leave them out to dry in direct sun, again to get the color lighter overall.

    They’ve been through a few machine washes and drying cycles too, when I’m lazy or it’s convenient.

    One cool detail, though it’s a bit difficult to photograph, is that the sashiko pockets have also faded quite a bit. Did just a bit of color and exposure tweaking to try and get it to show up more accurately in this shot...

    A9WOFNh_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f


  13. @Pedro My experience with the Okinawas has been a bit different, though these are the 40301 model (with synthetic indigo) so they’ll likely be faster fading than the natural indigo.

    I’m quite sure these have only about 6 months of wear (3-5 times weekly), as I only started wearing them intensively this Feb/Mar. They struck me as pretty fast faders, with the first bits of contrast showing up in the initial couple weeks and some actual color change through the thighs, rear, and knees after only 2-3 months.

    You can tell these photos are a bit overexposed by the patch on the back shot, but they look pretty true to the color in bright lighting.

    LZghmHT_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f

     

    zIuef6T_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&f


  14. @ALB Just lined up my two size 33 pairs, and they’re pretty much a perfect match from waist to inseam to hem.

    The OA denim does shrink a bit more than the #17 denim after a couple washes, so I would expect the saddle pants to get a tiny bit slimmer in the long run. My pair has been worn a few times, but not seen a second wash yet.


  15. I also had a crispy patch on my first pair of 1101s, which were one wash (and made me commit to always getting raw FCs in the future). It wasn’t shrunken, but worryingly stiff and noticeably darker than the raw patches. The patch has gotten a bit better after repeated applications of leather conditioner and some wear, but it’s still not in as good of shape as any pairs I’ve had from raw.


  16. I'll also add that the OA01 fit feels about identical to the R01 fit, but with 2" larger tag size. I.e., if a 35 fits great in the OA01, you probably will do best with a 33 in the R01 fit (with the exception of the rise, which is crazy high on the Roys).

    I'm basing this off having Ooe's Golden Gate 01 fit jeans in size 33 and the newest R01 jeans in size 31 - their measurements through the leg are very similar, and they feel/look about the same in the hips, though the rise measurements on the Roys are about 0.5-1" higher in the front and 1.5" higher in the back. If that extra rise gives you enough extra room in the waist relative to your OA01, then you can probably keep the size 32s, but they'll be a bit tighter than your Ooes when fully shrunk.


  17. Yep, I really wanted a pair of Roys for mostly sentimental/collection reasons, and this feels like a pretty perfect pair to that end: very classic styling, impeccably cut and sewn as always, and in his own personal denim. The cloth patch is a nice touch to me, since I’ve always loved his patch designs but the leather seemed to fade in only a few washes. So I picked up a pair from SENY this evening and will get around to wearing them... someday...

    I also wonder how much more black seed denim Roy has salted away. He’s now put out what, 4 or 5 runs of black seed jeans? It will be interesting to see what he does once his stash runs out, but I certainly hope he stays in the denim game.


  18. @1fookntitefd

    Probably around 10 washes, maybe a little more. I tend to wash the jeans I’m wearing heavily every one or two months.

    With the RJB jeans, I didn’t like washing them too much early on because the vertical falling is so extreme. Each early wash would bring out some light streaks in random parts of the otherwise dark denim, rather than emphasizing the worn-in areas. These jeans have kind of an awkward adolescence.

    Now that they’re somewhat faded all over, each wash just helps bring out new texture and lighter colors.

  • Alan Crocetti Silver Nose Plaster
    $US 342

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