chicote

Surprised nobody’s mentioned Stevenson - their denim is an all-time favourite of mine. Very similar to the evisu no.1 I’ve handled in terms its texture and green caste, but not quite as stubborn to fade. Tender denim is my favourite overall for reasons others have mentioned above. I’ve never tried any of their overdyed fabric but hope to some day.

Haha, no problem… it is a joke but half-serious too, I find myself wondering about employing the same marketing tactics in my own work as an artist. Given how many tattoo artists my age either just copy what’s popular on the internet or trace images off their iPads for their ‘original’ designs, I sometimes feel compelled to write things like “Drawn with a real pencil!!” and “Originated from my imagination!” on my work… but i feel doing this can kind of cheapen a person’s work, maybe in a similar way to slapping “artisan” on someone who’s just doing a run-of-the-mill industry-standard job in their line of work. But sometimes it does feel necessary to separate yourself from the automated processes that have taken over so many industries — I reckon we were drawn into this world of fashion partly because it markets itself in that exact way!

You definitely are… and all your gardens are hand-trimmed and your walls are hand-nailed… in the traditional fashion!

Amazing history, thank you so much for sharing! I find the intersections & transitions between anti-consumerist and underground skate/punk/biker/tattoo culture and the hyper-capitalist mass-culture mall brand conglomerations that entirely appropriated their imagery and message to always be really perversely fascinating. I used to have (and somehow lost or maybe had stolen) a collection of 200+ late 80s-early 90s tattoo magazines from all different corners of the market that I used to keep in the front of my old shop, which documented roughly the same era, when dinosaur mega corporations had just started creaking their necks around with interest, then intense fascination and finally wholesale obsession at the DIY/punk/new-age/grunge conglomerations that had formed in the shadows of early disposable neoliberalism. It was the end of all of those scenes as true forms of resistance, IMO, but still where a majority of punk aesthetics are trapped in today, right at this point when these subcultures first became fossilized in amber in trashy-outsourced-mall-brand form. Interestingly, Ed Hardy has said in several interviews that he welcomed the creation of the brand that used his name, because although it did harm his legacy among people of a certain generation, its revenues funded the creation of his tattoo history museum in the Bay Area that will hopefully leave a more flattering and enduring version of the history of his life & work to the world.

@andonym Beautiful shirt and story alongside it, thanks so much for sharing and welcome to the forum!

#broarksfadedinLDNxmaschallenge #bigEatbigben #doubledenimtuxonthedoubledeckerbus #traintracksonthetube

Yes, rigid means raw. My size 30 1001s are slightly loose at my waist—the waist measures almost exactly 30.5”, after a handful of wears. I’d agree w the above posters and go tts or down one depending on how you like the fit in the legs, wearing a belt or not, etc. Otherwise, don’t stress abt it too much, the 1101 is a great cut & very forgiving from what I have seen.

I’ve gotten some good roping even with hand-chainstitched hems - the trick is just pulling the thread right enough… and the other trick is performing the hem well before the jeans are done shrinking. That one looks like it’ll be good to me!

@rockon99 I’ve been wearing overalls at least 4-5 times a week myself and would happily contribute to an overall thread!

Lovely denim on both those, @Broark and @MJF9

@superfuture all works well for me! I wasn’t expecting such a drastic visual update but it is very clean, loads & runs smooth… great work!

They’re 51s, I’ve updated the listing. Thanks for your inquiry!

Putting up some jeans and pants I’m selling, all tag size 29 or 30. I’m gonna have some mainly vintage jackets up too, between 36-40, but the sun just came out while taking photos so those will be later. All fit pics on me, 176cm or 5’9” tall, weight 57kg or 125lbs. Message me w any questions! — Freewheelers 601XX 1951, size 29x30, $140 usd. purchased from @Flash a few years back. He said he wore them for a month if I remember right, and I gave them a couple weeks of wear and one wash before deciding they weren’t for me either, even though the fabric and details are really nice, just into wider cuts now. Freewheelers 601XX 29x30 Waist: 37.5cm / 14.75” Front Rise: 27cm / 10 5/8” Back Rise: 33cm / 13” Thigh: 28cm / 11” Hem: 19cm / 7.5” Inseam: 76cm / 30” — Evisu No. 1 2000, size 29, $90 usd. Worn about six months, quite a few washes, but this is hard-wearing denim and is not thin or overly worn for its age in my opinion. Beautiful green-grey caste to the fabric, about to enter the prime of its life! Evisu No.1 2000 29 Waist: 35.5cm / 14” Front Rise: 25.5cm / 10” Back Rise: 32cm / 12.5” Thigh: 29cm / 11.5” Hem: 18cm / 7.25” Inseam: 80cm / 31.5” — Fullcount 1108 29x30, $60. I bought these lightly used from Japan maybe ten years ago and gave them about 3-4 months of wear, a handful of washes and quite a short hem as an experiment with a particular look that I decided ultimately wasn’t for me. Notable arc deterioration and some wear on rear pockets but otherwise no exceptional fading. Gorgeous, soft denim, easily among the most comfortable I’ve ever worn at any stage of wear. Waist: 36.5cm / 14.5” Front Rise: 26.5cm / 10.5” Back Rise: 32cm / 12.5” Thigh: 26cm / 10.25” Hem: 19cm / 7.5” Inseam: 70cm / 27.5”

Anyone have experience with Cushman’s 11.5oz denim? Tried searching but didn’t come up with much. Thanks in advance!

Beautiful work 00! Really inspiring.

@81FXR I agree with this completely — for me, a wide leg is second to a high rise in my list of priorities. Granted, I am 5’9” / about 176cm tall, so maybe the effect is more pronounced on you because of your height, but I do really like jeans that sit at about my belly button, or slightly above my true waist, and feel consistently a bit disappointed with “medium-high rise” jeans that end up 3cm below my waist, even with a belt, after a day of wear. The TCB 40s, for example, which had a notably (and sometimes uncomfortably, if I recall some others’ experiences correctly) high rise, were almost perfect for me, and honestly if I could find a pair with a 4-5cm wider leg and 2-3cm higher front and back rise, I’d be happy to call that an ideal pair of wide-leg trousers. Perhaps that fruitless search is what’s motivated my interest in overalls lately… they’re always plenty wide, and you never have a problem holding them up!

Just to clarify Maynard, I was suggesting that the sc-47 (a more or less “straight” cut imo) is playing the middle of the road role today that slim straight cuts had played ten years ago, as a benchmark fit to which things like “wide” or “narrow” are measured against. What do you consider the sc66 to be? I have only worn one pair of sc66 and they fit me relatively slim compared to my sc47, so that’s my basis for comparison. I appreciate the conversation in this thread because i think it’s been some time since we have had a broader discussion about the sorts of fits people are after in this community as of late. To me, there is less of an orthodoxy than there was when I first joined sufu; people wear a somewhat wider (lol) range of cuts, even though we are still largely confined to a handful of the same brands. I see looser cuts with higher rises becoming the trend over the last few years, not just in our community but in the fashion world more broadly, and of course that’s to an extent dictated by the trends within the denim manufacturers themselves (one year everyone makes a 20s repro, then a 37, then 46, etc). So a thread that’s sort of reflecting on this movement towards wider fits in general I think is poignant and interesting, even if it veers a bit outside of its original purpose. Also, just wanted to add the tender 132 as a wide fit option — again, just my experience wearing a size 2 (roughly 1 inch oversized on me) which I felt like I was swimming in years ago!

I think definitions of what constitutes wide are also really time-specific. When I was first getting into denim twelve or so years ago, I have a distinct memory of the Samurai 710 being the quintessential slim-straight cut, along with things like the pbj 007, sc66, evisu 2000, fullcount 1108 etc. Nowadays, those are all too slim for my tastes, but they are still pretty middle-of-the-road for the general fashion world. But twelve years ago, those were definitely on the looser end of what a lot of people would wear, especially during the size-down-2 dark ages. Most brands’ 1947 cuts were, at that time, definitely wide, relatively speaking, but the window has shifted in the past decade and now those jeans are more along the lines of the sort of “standard” fit I think a lot of us have in mind when deciding the wideness of a particular cut. So in that way I can see how a sc1947 would fill the role that a brand’s flagship “slim straight” did a decade ago, even if it is technically categorized as a straight cut.

Right, what’s “wide” is subjective and also going off thigh or leg opening measurements alone doesn’t really paint a complete picture. Most of the pants I wear are somewhere between 21-25cm in leg opening, which is relatively wide for my size 29 waist, but would be definitively slimmer for somebody whose pants have 10+cm wider waistbands than mine. I’m not home right now, but brought a pair of 1940s army trousers with me that have a 24.5cm leg opening, 29cm thigh and 76cm waist. I’m not sure if there can be a strict rule about it, but for myself personally, my “wide” pants usually have a leg opening that measures around or at least 30% of the waist measurement. These army trousers are about 32%, for reference. But I don’t necessarily feel it’s useful to get so granular since our styles and body types give us all widely differing perspectives and experiences regarding different fits.

Great fit on those julian!

Thanks shred, Duke and broark, really appreciate the help. I really like the woodsman, the tool pouch sewn into the waistband is a nice touch and would probably be really useful for what I’m planning to wear them for. I’ll keep an eye out!

Did Freewheelers ever make a pair of bib overalls?

- off topic

Yes, needles is a sub-brand of Nepenthes, and I believe is mainly known for making frankenstein’d patchwork shirts, such as below, out of repurposed vintage garments. brief bio from here: Needles is the creation of Keizo Shimizu, owner and director of Japanese fashion umbrella company - Nepenthes. Initially a fashion distribution firm started in 1988, Nepenthes expanded to retail operations in Aoyama (1989) and established US offices in Boston (1989) and New York (1996). He became discontent with what was not available in the market. This vision led to the establishment of Engineered Garments (designed by Daiki Suzuki), and Keizo’s own designs in Needles, South2 West8, and Sonic Labs. Drawing from historical magazines, past experiences and travels; Needles is Shimizu’s personal viewpoint on what garments should be, resulting in a bohemian/west-coast centric inspired direction. Built through the strong network and accumulated operations of the parent company, Needles is produced with no compromises, fully representing the aesthetics of Keizo and the creative source of Nepenthes. The Rebuild by Needles project is an extension of Shimizu’s unique aesthetic and presents an innovative interpretation of repurposed vintage. Deconstructing mostly American military garments, the collection is assembled in Japan, reworking pre-owned garments into original new pieces, transforming the deadstock into the avant-garde.

And a denim-clad worker in Diego Rivera’s Pan American Unity, shown in the entryway at San Francisco MOMA: