Dr_Heech

I don't think it's just a case of something that was just widely thought of as charming but more of something that had been reproduced further,  in the case of Csf at the time (2016/2017) it was not the wonky stitching that was the charm, it was the capturing of character and spirit that had risen the bar. The use of era specific skills on old sewing machines, materials that were more researched and wonderful denim. Yes the cuts Csf offered and the sizing weren't as well researched, and some of the variations of the original line up were just a bit more than quirky, but no more so than Levis Red or Evisu or some other brands. Again l don't think it's lost its charm because it's been offered more but more likely because we've had quite a few years of it being offered to us, so more like saturation of the market.

1 hour ago, CSL said:

If it is a replica, then I find the level of wonkiness rather shocking. Makes me think people must have been pretty desperate to get a denim suit, in order to tolerate that level of slop. Of course I understand denim history fanatics of today being turned on by those elements.

One thing I'm wondering about, I believe Lee (& Wrangler?) were making jeans & jackets in 1944. I've never heard anything about their products having the sloppy sewing element. Perhaps someone here can shed some light on that subject?
 

I think the level of slop was predominantly worse for Levis products for some of the reasons described earlier - re new factories, whereas Lee already had a number of factories. Only ever seen a few pairs of images of WW2 made cowboy pants and jackets and the only slightly sloppy stitching was on the pleat stitches, even then it's bearly visible. As for Bluebell's Wrangler brand, that wasn't introduced until 1947.

4 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Isn’t this the thing people loved about CSF? Is it just now that it doesn’t seem so unique because you can get erratic stitching from brands that used to use straight lines, so it’s played out? 

Couldn't have put it better myself. 

Enough wonkiness,  l'm now looking forward to my non-wonky, straight stitched pre war FW tux. 

@MJF9 l agree with @beautiful_FrEaK insomucinsomuch the garment is based off an actual vintage one so the wonkiness is perfect, in a perfect wonky sense. I just think like many that it is now just one manufacturer outdoing the next on the wonky scale. I for one am over this trend by a long shot but can appreciate the draw it still has.

15 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

^ What plant did they use for the rivets and buttons? A steel plant?

Classic early seventies Maynard joke.

@Sympathy-For-The-Denim

Meh, this is still lvc so probably still stitched with poly thread 🤮

My warehouse 1915 belt loop model (aka 1922 model) which l have been wearing on and off for the last year. Only had one wash since its initial soak. Love the cut details and denim but boy they do seem to fade quick. Phone pics have been 'sufu'd' so click on for a better quality version.

My Csf WW2 got a regular wash and made the jerky patch fall to pieces so l removed the rest.

Nice roping thanks to @Mr Black skills at hemming on the old Union special. 

Been wearing these and my WH 1922s for a while but now it seems like shorts weather until September so my Csf will get put away until then.

(Edit) sorry about the crap pic quality,  not my intention.  Click on them to get sharper image.

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

@Dr_Heech Are you saying I have too many jeans!!!
But agreed, I should put them on more often.

There's no such thing as owning too many jeans,  as long as you have the right ones.

^needs more wear @beautiful_FrEaK

2 hours ago, tooth said:

😂😂😂 thought this was a joke, but it isn’t. Wolsro…

 

Be interested to know if they do a T back version 👍

17 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

I heard Freewheelers are thinking of doing a line in incontinent trousers for the ageing population... calling them underalls, like overalls only different 

Not sure about that but the other day l saw some reel introducing 'pee stained jeans' so even if you're not incontinent, you can certainly have the look of some dude who's been caught short. 

3 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

^ sized down for that famous Sufu fit!

Maybe they're CSF ? Looks happy. Probably chuffed he got a pair to fit 😅

Thought l'd share - pinched it from Matt @Rivethead. S501XX probably.

On 1/19/2022 at 4:04 PM, Dr_Heech said:

 

Photos of 1942 501XX from Hellers Cafe.

Just a random comparison post as l don't have these photos to hand and it takes me ages to fire up the old laptop, and l can't be arsed to keep going back through these pages to find the images. 

1937 1st ever pocket flasher, used between 1937 and March 1942 vs 1942 2nd pocket flasher, used between April and December 1942.

@shredwin_206 looks like those back pocket rivets are nuzzling their way through the fabric. Nice job!

@Duke Mantee l don't suppose you would know if the 42 pair that FW copied were a used pair or deadstock? 

Never mind, found out they are a used pair 🙂

@Duke Mantee sorry moved post to FW thread

^^^^Also don't forget only one factory going into WW2 (1942) and at least 3 factories coming out so alot of new and untrained machine operators and a change in the new, more simplified design of the 501xx for skilled/trained levis employees to have to rush through for service industries. 

1 hour ago, MJF9 said:

Reopening the chat with @shredwin_206 @Duke Mantee in the FW thread on the 42 denim...

I'm hearing again that the denim is not new (it's the WW2 denim used on the recent models) however the features are new.  I know Shred heard the opposite...

x-wires somewhere... 

When l said new denim l meant for the 501xx at the time, so a change from the standard 1937 denim to the WW2 denim, even though the US weren't officially at war at the time. So another transitional model really.

Edit- decided to change the wording in my original post for clarity.

Loved my Csf S501XX when l got it back in 2016 but it didn't have any wild wonky stitching at all apart from the pleat stitching maybe but l still thought it was quite subtle. The Denim and cotton stitching gave it that aura of the Real deal though and l'm glad l still have the 41 and 44 WW2 jeans.

The FW1942's are actually based on  pre-WW2 501's and they were a kind of test sample materials- wise (eg new denim and copper coated iron) but still pre-war in terms of quality construction not under any necessary constraints or pressures.

Hopefully FW will convey this in their reproduction of them although l'm under little doubt as l've preordered both.

Thanks @Duke Mantee knew you'd have the intel .

15 hours ago, Broark said:

1942 506xx landing at stores now, featuring a nicely faded tab.

What's the shrinkage like on the war denim? The one wash measurements provided by Hoosier are great but l wondered what the final shrinkage is, in other words, beyond the one wash state. For those who have FW war denim - What's your experience?

Nicked these pics from lg - looks like a late 1941/early 1942 model 501XX. The model just before the forthcoming Freewheelers 1942 repro (last cinch model 501xx before the simplified S501xx)

Has the flipped yoke, left over right panels  and a black buckle. Beautiful pale yellow almost white stitching after years of wash and wear.

I'm not a fanny pack fan but can appreciate the work that's gone into that @Duke Mantee. Good job