Lorcan

On my SCSC 1942s the tag tends to pop out the pocket and become visible. Been meaning to chop it off. Not had it with my other Canes but maybe these are the same.

Hah we seem to be getting all of the weather here. Tuesday I was back in my Sure Alaska hoody (which is double face 14oz sweat so 28oz), tomorrow looking like t-shirt only (!) and some nice denim jacket weather in the middle

Dad’s 1927, SCSC 1943, Codina x Himel, Nicks

Those ones are BoT I believe. Nice pick up reubensangwich! The Denim Bridge models have brighter yellow stitching, and haven't ever had the destroyed patch treatment AFAIK?

Yeah 1945 has different weft, it’s more beige in tone as well. There is a bit more detail on the differences in the Clutch YouTube video for 1945 I think

Interesting to hear MFJ, I've eyed up the Full Back a few times but worried the sleeve would be too short and they only come in white/ecru and my current obsession is navy-fading-to-purple sweats. FWIW the Sure Mfg one also feels smaller than the ptp measurement would suggest but has broken in quite nicely, although I might still go up a size if I got another one. Their double face afterhood sweats are much more generous - I got the Red Bird one as well as the Alaska hoody and they are a pretty easy fit, but then they are a bit more like outerwear.

Sure Mfg do a proper short vintage fit, and pretty snug neckline, I have one in navy https://xxdevelopment.shop-pro.jp/?pid=189907765 I think some of their older ‘Californians’ models are longer in the body. The Alvarado and Silverado fabrics are slightly softer and stretchier (but nice). l’m also interested in Gordon sweats but haven’t got around to trying one yet https://grandguignolstore.com/products/gordon-double-v-freedom-sleeve-sweat-v-navy

I pre-ordered (although it looks like I didn't need to...) from Barnstormer a while back. Have a pretty cinchback heavy rotation at the moment, SCSC 42s and Denimbridge 1890s current main pairs

some fit pictures of the Dad's. Gave it a short/cold machine rinse cycle, lost another 0.5-1cm on the back, sleeves and shoulders, chest stayed the same.

He made a run of 1915 model for YM Factory but only 15 pairs lol. Looked nice tho https://store.ymfactory.com/items/138949801

I missed that one. I was around for the Temple of Jawnz saga however

Damn that sucks, I had no idea. The lead time on the Himel collab was shorter than his mto usually is I think, and he's been doing stuff for Standard and Strange too. Maybe bitten off more than he can chew. Sometimes being a good craftsman and good at the business side doesn't go hand in hand unfortunately... I also have a belt from Equus Leather here in the UK who did great stuff (the bags in particular looked amazing) but he went bankrupt and left a bunch of people with unfulfilled orders a few years back.

Yeah agreed, thought it was interesting all the same as it wasn't something I'd spent much time thinking about before. Bottom is Slash Overalls incidentally True and square's generally what I'm looking for when studying measurements. My issue these days is more that 56-58cm length looks good on me proportionally, but I'm struggling to fit 56-58cm ptp like I did 6 months ago. Should probably switch back to running

Fit is pretty good, a touch oversized looking on me, but it's a larger size than most of my other jackets (except Slash Overalls 1946 which is super small/short for a tagged 46) so not unexpected. After a hot tub soak with plenty of agitation size 46 is Shoulder 52.5 cm Chest 62.5 cm Length 62.5 cm Sleeve 59.5 cm so the sleeve length is a little shorter than the suggested shrinkage but otherwise all within range. I'll probably run it through a machine rinse cycle soon-ish but happy with the fit as is. I managed to get back into calisthenics training since last October having had for like 10 years issues with elbow tendonitis. A few years focused on running and latterly doing more grip strength stuff and isometrics has kind of healed things up enough amazingly, but that kind of training was also keeping me roughly the same size... now I can do pull-ups again and training for muscle-ups, etc. this has blown up my upper back/shoulders in recent months so everything fits different now (ie armhole can be an issue kind of regardless of chest space). I'll probably have to sell some of my smaller things like SCSC 1945 jacket unfortunately 🥲. The Dad's is thankfully big enough but longer and looser through the midsection than I've previously been used to.

Codina x Himel with NOS North & Judd copper buckle (feat. SCSC)

Not really that I've seen, although it's not the easiest to search for. Lots of dads in jeans or even 'dad fit' jeans, lol. There are some pics of the owner in faded WWII denim https://www.instagram.com/p/Cawk747pf6L/?img_index=1 although I'm not sure which WWII model or if its the current fabric. I did find the About page interesting (obviously with the vagaries of translation eg. "da Lucizan" = Studio d'Artisan).

Post-wash cinch strap is on the slightly shorter side. Solide buckle repro. small diameter buttons as its a 1920s model denim shows quite a lot of weft on the warp face compared to some - so quite dotty. Not much nep or slubbiness however (their 1942 model goes heavy with the nep). chest pocket Dad's branded rivets. This jacket had me thinking about type I cuff sewing as it has more of a neat rectangle round the rivet than my other jackets. Dad's at the top vs some others. Could be wrong, but I suspect the Dad's will be less prone to broken threads just in front of the rivet. Top line of stitching also doesn't wander across diagonally.

Dad’s 1927 jacket arrived, more pics in due course. Lead time was quick- think they say 1-2 months on the website but I got shipping notification after about 10 days. Sewing looks nice. Hard to judge the fit pre-soak. Like Freewheelers they back the chest pocket button with a strip of denim on the inside. I have Ooe’s preordered that I may wear it with as a 1920s tux. Also I blame @Broark for mentioning them further up 😁

Don’t normally pay attention to fashion YouTube but thought this one on women’s raw denim was very good and at the end lists most of the available options including the sufu approved TCB, Brycelands, etc.

Freewheelers/Oliver Spencer/Codina x Himel/ Slash Overalls/ Nicks

new season denim jacket popping up at a couple of the Japanese stockists https://diaries-shop.com/tenderco-type-904-cross-cut-jeans-jacket-16oz-selvage-denim-purple-logwood https://shop.pheb.jp/shopdetail/000000011746

Newlyn smock / FW Ironalls / Salomon

old arc'd 1937 model Rockets on Mercari at the moment. V small waist unfortunately, but fun to see. https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/special/order/confirm/https%3A%2F%2Fjp.mercari.com%2Fitem%2Fm13340362530/13_1/

At least they don’t come in fancy packaging, I feel like the box and wax paper thing à la Ground Alls (didn’t Libra Pondus even use a metal box?! or was that a fever dream) does psychologically encourage the store away and don’t wear mentality. Or if you do just throw them on then you’ve got ephemera cluttering up the place to store or bin.

I don’t really share the feeling around the naming tbh. I expect some of it is just something they thought sounded cool marketing to primarily a Japanese domestic audience whose first language isn’t English… no point over thinking it. I can sympathise with questioning the price - there are plenty of good jeans for less money after all. I feel like they’re among the best repros I’ve tried and have a different character to other stuff I own so I’m okay with it. And new fabric developed for every release is maybe different from what other brands are doing. Hoping the new release is a one off for Sugar Cane 50th anniversary and they go back to made in Japan and repro-ing specific pairs again down the line though.