Lorcan

Haha yeah I feel like Freewheelers are good at finding vintage stuff that looks very Freewheelers-y if that makes sense, and then they have some original designs. Sometimes hard to tell which is which. I forget which jacket design but there was one where I assumed oh all those extra elaborations of stitching and pockets on top of pockets must be a FW exaggeration of period design... then saw the exact vintage piece on Fake Alpha or somewhere and was like ohhh

Chopper Builders looking good! Came across these 1950s vintage Carter's denim which I presume form most of the inspiration. They did bib overalls with the same layered front pockets and double knee as well.

Don't know. I have noticed quite a few stores that used to have Buyee as the pop-up recommended proxy service integrated on their websites have switched to Zenmarket now. Not sure the reason. Jeans are also up at Raze

Awesome. Nice to see the comparison between the different denims. I have a pair of the jeans on the way that I found on Mercari - I'm hoping they're the same denim as my S06 jacket (which I think is LF44) but I'm not sure.

This guy's blog has some decent images of some late 90s Joe McCoy stuff. The era Atsushi was involved with pre-Bootleggers/Freewheelers if I'm not mistaken.

Going through jeanspavilion it looks like the Bootleggers guys weren’t the only Deadheads on the repro scene back in the day 😆 710 (as in 710 Haight Ashbury) for the lot number was well played

I do enjoy how Ueki's on the red tab looks like it reads something else 😅

1990s version of the copper king jacket they reissued with the 1943 jeans https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/special/order/confirm/https%3A%2F%2Fjp.mercari.com%2Fitem%2Fm90085840817/13_1/

I was looking at this Jett Rink storm rider repro recently but didn’t know anything about them. Looks good https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/auction/yahoo/input/r1141693364/

Yeah I feel the same, the one on my FW 1946-47 is pretty frayed and curled up at this point but it's like another little ageing thing to enjoy. The SCSC 1946 one (and its vintage counterpart) look longer than I've seen on other repros. I still need the Vintage Denim Jacket book.

I think the button reinforcement is a Freewheelers artistic licence thing? It's not something I've ever seen highlighted on vintage jackets eg. on denimarchieves.com The FW Ironalls chore jacket has extra backing on the ring-back buttons inside the front placket I believe (I don't own one...yet), at least Iceclimber's photo's look like they show this. The size tag above the leather patch is definitely repro'd by other makers- my Neat Style x Denim Bridge has it, BoT and CSF have done it too. Sugar Cane SCSC 1946 has it, but the 1943/1945 don't because the vintage jackets they based it off didn't.

The run of cinch back jeans he made for Silver & Gold are still available in a few sizes: https://store.silver-and-gold.com/?pid=155995484 https://www.instagram.com/p/CnLmeU7v09x/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

I think they had a big sale of their older stuff, like 6 months ago maybe? I remember individual sizes of the wide leg jeans being listed on the website discounted like they were clearing stock. They used to sell a nice looking gansey knit, made in Suffolk I remember being tempted by. Feel like things have been on the slide for a while now though.

Thanks...think it was last year 2024. I got it from Hoosier last May, I was in Kyoto and got some stuff from there in person -some of which was old season but that was a new arrival. Cool store to visit IRL lots of crazy older FW and Barnstormers pieces, pretty sure I saw that Lee Marvin belt the Duke made for him hanging up in there too.

Slash Overalls S06XX / Freewheelers tee / Joe McCoy belt / Sugar Cane S1943 / Nicks

This is the slogan I need printed on a T-shirt TBH

Sugar Cane 1945 / Muji / Joe McCoy / Sugar Cane 1942 / Nicks

The 1922 jeans on the other hand were un-hammered and a danger to leather seats everywhere 😂

Hard-wearing with generous thighs is generally what I look for

After going down the rabbit hole of google-fu/instagram stalking- I think this could be the guy who makes the Payday WWII jacket for them? https://www.instagram.com/coal_mine_2022/ Coalmine Guaranteed/ Yosuke Kamogawa seems to collab with Tatsumasa Onuki who is mentioned in one of the magazine articles in the Marquemaker Press section as brand director of Payday (unless translate is messing with me) but otherwise couldn't see him mentioned on their official site -or Payday anywhere on Onuki's social media - but he does describe himself as freelance designer, so maybe that's not surprising. I reckon he got the design gig and then got his mate with the artisanal denim business involved

For some reason I had it in my head that it was, but you're right it's its own thing as a revived brand and has other ownership. This seems to be the official site. For what seems like a fairly mainstream fashion conglomerate it seems funny they'd do stuff that edges into the one-man artisanal denim space. But perhaps that's just Japan for you 🤷‍♂️ Cockpit USA (leather jacket company) seem to have the licence to do Payday stuff in the US.

I’m still interested in CSF as a product as it still seems one of the better repros out there (and I missed the boat with it unfortunately) it’s just everything outside the physical product is a drag with CSF. in other Junky Classics and one-man craftsman related news I hadn’t realised some of their JC Penney Pay Day repros are now made that way (but they don’t say who the maker is). https://blog-classics.jugem.jp/?eid=3025#gsc.tab=0

I'm sure rarity probably does factor in to the mystique. But I would say the patterns are really good/ very vintage-y. Of the five 506XX's I own the Slash Overalls is probably my favourite cut. And as with indigoeagle I get the impression from his blog/insta that he is an obsessive with the patterns (among other things) and has his own philosophy as to what makes a good repro. Slash also seems to develop some distinctive wrinkle and puckering fades (like on waistband, collar) that are a bit extra. You can see here https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck3NyL3PUod/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== or https://www.instagram.com/p/DKEz7qUTl0c/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== I really like it. Of course you can get some of that with other brands (my Tender denim jacket is developing some very tasty waistband crinkles) but it is part of the appeal.

How do you like the 66 model you got from him out of curiosity?

I’ve got about 12 months still to wait on a BoT 506xx 💀