rbeck

@LazyS Interesting. It isn't critical that that stitch holds the inner part of the waistband so maybe they never cared about it in the first place. 

@CSL i agree that that such you've highlighted is the most glaringly obvious one and also agree that I'd be questioning it if i were buying that jacket in the 40s. 

12 minutes ago, CSL said:

Those look pretty tight compared to the highly asymmetrical SC jacket. I see some overlapping stitching where they've run out of thread & started over, but all the lines look on target. 

One sample is hardly enough to base the whole era on. Regardless, the back pockets and hems are pretty sloppy. Plus baby jeans are probably easier to keep straight on since the seams aren't as long. 

Here's some war era lees that it looks like they botched the waistband topstitching. The back side of the waistband shows the needle missed the inner edge of the waistband (pic 4). I'd say that isn't on target. Most other seams look pretty okay, but the backstitching in some places looks just as sloppy as the SC levis repros (check the pocket bag picture where the coin pocket stitches are apparent) .

 https://denimarchieves.com/e/vintage_and_old_denim_bottoms/lee_101b_wwii_en.html

Lees of that era would have been union made where I don't think Levis ever was union? I wonder if that had an effect too? If you're union you wouldn't feel the same pressure to churn out pairs of jeans no matter the quality that non-union workers would, so quality may have improved from that? Purely speculation here. 

7 hours ago, CSL said:

One thing I'm wondering about, I believe Lee (& Wrangler?) were making jeans & jackets in 1944. I've never heard anything about their products having the sloppy sewing element. Perhaps someone here can shed some light on that subject?


 

I just saw these wwii era Lee infant sized pants on instagram this morning and they also have sloppy stitching

https://www.instagram.com/p/C7P6YH1vlce/?igsh=MWFodGNpMnZpaGh3Nw==

I like the SC stuff better than that Full Count pair posted yesterday because at least they trimmed loose threads (aside from chainstitch runoff). Personally wouldn't wear either because they look more like homemade clothes than repros to the untrained eye. Appreciate the attention to detail though. 

Good color on those chucks

Now this is getting out of hand 

Last two days. 

Today: vintage Crested Butte merchandise, diy jeans, etnies. Additional closeup of the diy jeans, I like how they're coming along. 

Yesterday: straight edge tee, Eddie Bauer (started off as pants but never liked the way they fit so I turned them into shorts), etnies.

Yeah I still frequent the sub and try to help out as much as I can in the daily questions threads. I see @beautiful_FrEaK and @julian-wolf in the dq thread all the time too.

I like that the wash/don't wash divide leans towards wash these days though. People post their jeans that haven't touched water in over a year and there's always (deserved) comments about stench. But you'll still have people show up accusing you of not showering enough if you suggest that washing monthly or so is the best way to prevent stinky jeans.

Just want to say that since joining this forum I've had a lot more enjoyable discussions about denim than I've ever had over on reddit. Those weirdos get so sensitive lol.

Thank you @chicote! I'm really proud of how they came out. 

Aaaaannnndddd they're done. Still gotta wash them to get rid of anything from the mill, but they're done. 

The waistband went much easier this time around. Decided to baste it in place and that made a world of difference (last two pics). I had far less problems getting the needle to grab the inside edge. 

Went with tucked loops again. Also pleased with how easily my zig zag machine did bartacks on the loops. I think this Janome might run smoother than my 201. He also wanted 7 loops instead of the standard 5 because he likes how it keeps his belt in place better. 

I'll update with fit pics in a couple weeks after his birthday. 

Things went really well on this pair though. I wasn't able to use my compensating foot because I realized the needle bar nicks it slightly and I don't want to mess anything up on my Singer. So I had to do most of the topstitching by lining the edge up with the presser foot toe. It was a good lesson in sewing straight and patience, but I think it made me a better sewist because of it. 

Been a couple days since I've had a busy week. Last night I serged and topstitched the inseam and sewed the outseams as well. 

My brother wanted purple topstitching down the inseam, but I got in a groove last night and used yellow. Didn't catch my mistake till after I got the outseams and the topstitching on the hips, so I had a lot of backtracking to do. I was afraid things would end up sloppy but everything stitched up nicely imo.

Another update, sorry for double posting today. 

Got the fly pieces attached, did the crotch seam, and did the first pass on the inseam. I have to wait to serge and topstitch the inseam because I want to baste the outseam and have him try them on first. That way I can let out some seam allowance if I need to before actually finishing the inseam. 

This denim is really trying the limits of my 201-2. I had some troublesome spots on the last pair but nothing as difficult as some of these seams have been. Maybe this is a sign to start shopping for an industrial machine lol. 

I'm happy with how quick these have come along. It's cool to know that barring fit checks I can definitely knock a pair out in a weekend. If it weren't for other plans and wanting to triple check the fit of these thighs then I'd be wrapping up tonight instead of leaving it where its at right now. 

Progress from the last couple days. 

Yokes are attached, backs are sewn, and rear pockets are attached. Front pockets are done too. I've had this gingham canvas for ages and I'm glad it's getting put to use now. 

My brother's name is Evan, so he wanted a lowercase e on the back pockets. He also wanted a purple tab (and purple serging and inseam topstitching to match later).

Added a closeup of the bartacks which came out better than I expected. 

I got so much satisfaction out of making that last pair of jeans that I told my brother I wanted to make a pair for him for his birthday. Been drafting the pattern the last couple weeks and finally got it where he wanted it. He's got a little bit more weight in his gut and thighs than I do so it was a good exercise in modifying patterns. 

Also bought this 1960s New Home (Janome) 532 zig zag machine off Marketplace for $50. It could hardly turn when I got it, so over a few days I doused it in kerosene a few times a day to de-gunk it. That did the trick so I oiled it up, put belt on it, and now I can do bartacks. It doesn't love going through belt loops but if you floor it it will get enough momentum to power through. 

Also some (admittedly poor) pictures of the denim my brother selected. He wanted a crosshatch slub so I found this stuff on Big Z. 

More updates to follow!

I really like that they stayed true to the reference material and sewed these on a single needle machine. 

Some pizza shop hat

Some vintage vest

Electric Wizard tee again

Some thermal

DIY

Good Guys boots

And a couple action shots from our record release show last night

Went to a vintage fest and antique store with my girlfriend today. Got his n hers garfield keychains, a cool puffer vest, a flick tricks for my friend who grew up on a bmx bike, and also found my favorite hot wheel from my childhood still boxed up with the hauler I never knew it came with. Also saw a few cool ratty lookin vans. Good day. 

Levis

Electric Wizard shirt

DIY

Blundstones

On 4/4/2024 at 1:33 PM, Ciabatta said:

Paris, Texas is a top 5 film for me. 

 

Just watched this for the first time thanks to your post here, and wow what a movie. Gonna be thinking about it for a while now.

Hat is merch from my friends' band

Vintage M65 liner

Champion

DIY jeans

Blundstones 

@Double 0 Soul got some closeups of that bike? Looks real sharp 👌 

Vintage Levis jacket

Band tee

DIY jeans

Good Guys boots

17 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

How can they be tight if they’re baggy? Extreme sizing down?

Lol that's getting territory of skater fashion 20 years later

5 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

Hear me out.

90’s. 

That’s the only contest I’m in for. 

A baggy pair like 90s skaters wore would be tight