blooming

@NilsLW nice fit! I wear the same size as you and they fit me exactly the same. You almost forget the inseam is shorter than others once you've worn them for a bit. Makes them really easy to wear with different types of shoes too, boots, sneakers, oxfords etc.

https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/auction/yahoo/input/x1092628325/ Anyone looking for some raw Shins era Kyoto's?

@kiya Curious about the SD-101, is it a newer version of the existing SD-101 cut?

https://redcastheritage.com/products/fullcount-2102w-13-7oz-type-ii-denim-jacket @andrew_ a bit cheaper than BEARS (I can't believe I just typed that)

Short list at the moment: 

Full Count 2107 Type 2 13.7oz (Size 40)
Oni Indigo/Black Secret Denim Type 3 (Size 40)
Lee Storm Rider (70s) (Size ??? but it fits)

Those look amazing @Jared_Lee. Sitting here in my 1101s in the same denim a couple of months in, and hoping they turn out similarly.

I think the 710 is the best cut out of the 60s style. 221 is kinda weird and I don't really love it on me. 224 is nice but as @beautiful_FrEaK stated, they have slightly weird proportions in the top block. 710 is just comfy all around and multiple sizes fit me correctly in different ways. Clear winner.

If I had to pick an overall favorite out of the current Resolute/Denime offerings, 220 gets my vote for best fabric and best fit.

5 hours ago, Mtvare said:

I like the look of the 711. The waist at 34 looks right but I'm scared by the low back rise. Has anyone on the bigger side (I'm 87kg 182cm with fairly big legs) made them work without sizing up so as to need a belt?

I'm 183cm/73kg and wear 32x32 for 711. I have faily long legs/high hips and the lower rise is still fine without a belt, as @beautiful_FrEaK said.

* indicates current rotation

Denime:
Kyoto (Orizzonti-era)
XX (type-II slim, Orizzonti-era, raw, deadstock, for sale Size 31)
Lot 220A*
Lot 221
Lot 224

Full Count:
1108xx
1108 (arcs, one-wash, for sale Size 31)
1108bkbk
1101*
1105 (arcs/tab)
Type 2 jacket*

Oni:
246ZR
Type 3 jacket (Indigo/black Secret Denim, for sale, Size 40)

Ooe Yofukuten: 
SOA03XX*

Pure Blue Japan (all for sale)
xx-019-bb
SLB-019
xx-18oz-019 (double indigo)

Resolute:
710
711

Samurai:
S5000VXII (for sale size 31)
S710NBKII (for sale size 32)

The Flat Head:
3009

The Strike Gold:
SG5103
SG7104 (for sale, size 32)
SG7103 (for sale, size 31)

Studio D'Artisan:
SD-101*
D1714 (103 cut, Nep denim, for sale Size 31)

TCB:
60s*
50s Slim T
50s*

UES:
400T*

Warehouse:
800xx
1001xx Heavy
 

I think this is everything at the moment. Definitely need to unload a few pairs I'm unlikely to wear.

They look great, though. I also find the fit to be on the slimmer side compared to what I was expecting.

On 5/9/2024 at 1:22 AM, Alec Leamas said:

Nice! On delivery speed and fit!

As I'm sure you've read thousands of times on here by now the waist stretches out plenty. I was positively shocked at how snug mine were when they arrived, within hours had relaxed and got super comfy, might be my most comfortable pair now.

I'd be interested to see how the fit looks as from what I can tell from all your past posts you tend to err on the slimmer side of fits!

They are next up in my daily rotation so I’ll grab a pic or two tomorrow. They are probably my best fitting 50s XX cut, when compared to my Denime XX (31) and my FC 0105 (old cut, size 30).

400T. 5 months of wear, 2 washes, first wash wasn't until after 3 months and felt necessary after 2 weeks of daily wear travelling throughout SE Asia. These get 3-4 days of wear per week at least, and were the only pair of jeans I wore from mid-January until maybe a month ago. Other than my Warehouse 800xx, these are the quickest fading pair I've worn, and the surprising amount of vertical fading is a nice addition. Excited to see how they'll look after I hit the 1-year mark.

50's got here today from BEARS in 6 days. That was quick. Currently wearing them. I definitely understand the recommendation to size up. My Slim 50s and 60s pairs both fit nicely in a 31, while the 50s are super snug in the waist in 32. Not uncomfortable, and the fit is perfection everywhere else. Definitely happy with this impulse decision.

I see the similarities to Denime XX but with a darker dye and tighter weave. I think the 101 would work well for you @beautiful_FrEaK. 

3 minutes ago, Maynard Friedman said:

I think it’s one of the best denims out there, very smooth and built to last, it would be great for a competition. I really enjoyed my pair although I wish the SD-101s had a slightly higher rise (back and front).

Yeah, they feel incredibly sturdy and seem to fade slowly. I can see them building some really nice contrast fading. I considered the rise given SDA's cuts, and went with size 31. While a 30 would have also fit in the waist, the top block would have definitely been a little small for me.

SD-101 for my first pair of SDA jeans. I've always loved the brand and love my shirts/tees/sweatshirts, but never had any of their denim. I love the way these fit and the denim is really nice. 

They are great @Geeman, just a bit too tapered to work with the outfits I've been preferring. I got a pair of UES 400T back in January that fit the niche for a tapered cut a bit better. The 50s denim is so nice though, I'll be glad to have that option again.

I broke down yesterday and ordered a pair of 50s from BEARS. I love my 50's Slim, but the fit isn't working as well for me these days. 

3 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Yeah, the Kyoto is rather slim. Has similarities to the Resolute 710.

I am still searching for a W36 in this cut because of the slimmer nature.

My Kyotos in size 32 fit almost identically to Resolute 710 in 33. They are slightly lower rise and a little less tapered, though.

I wear my FC 1108 black/black pretty often. Depending on your size, you may still be able to find a pair. I don't know too much about the denim used for these aside from it being the same weight as their normal 13.7oz. 

I would be very interested.

I've been living in my 400T since January. Just wore them on a two week trip, traveling all over Vietnam. Gave them their first wash when I got home the other day, so I'll post some pics soon.

Here's a friend who happened to be in Tokyo during my layover and I at Hinoya. I've got the 400T on, as well as the denim traveling shirt: 

Yeah, they run fairly small for tops. 40 or 42 seems to be the biggest size they had for most items.

Visited The Flat Head store in Harajuku (Jinguemae) when in Tokyo a couple of weeks ago. Got a tee and a black/yellow checked flannel workshirt. The store clerk was incredibly friend and enthusiatic and helped me out with sizing. Highly recommend that shop any time you're in the area/

7 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

That was quick  (well, also took a long time). 03's arrived today. These are 32's. Good bit of play in the waist raw still. Gonna go for maximum shrinkage on these straight away (whenever that is - honestly probably 2025 or even later). 

Denim seems a touch grayer and a touch more irregular than on my recent 01's. Lovely details in the stitching compared to my 01's, pocket bags are nice too. 

Last photo are my 01's in size 31 which I love the fit of in general and are completely comfortable now but I really had to stretch the waist out - which happened in about a few hours of wear. 0A's denim seem to stretch pretty forgivingly - can't be sure with the 03's but it feels similar enough to the 01 that I wouldn't be surprised. I've only worn the 01's a handful of times so far too and I think they will fade relatively quickly...but even these I'm not sure will be in regular rotation until next summer or fall. These are more just to show fit, the light isn't good for showing the denim. In general, this patterning feels a notch above a lot of repro's I've encountered - at least for my frame. We'll see how it all wears with time though.

 

That's more or less exactly how mine fit me pre-wash. Those look spot-on!