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Duke Mantee

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Posts posted by Duke Mantee

  1. Neal - I think what you’ve demonstrated is that ‘fit’ is a very personal thing as much as it is a ‘dimensional’ thing. You bought the Brakeman in the same size as me but we are completely different body shapes ... you even managed to make my FW trousers work (actually ‘work’ is a bit harsh - they looked good).

    However none of that is specifically for leather jackets ...

  2. On 11/22/2020 at 4:15 PM, mlwdp said:

    Proper way to size and measure for a leather jacket when you have never owned one?  I have a Buzz deck jacket in size large but it has wool lining in though.  Fits great btw.  I also have a MIJ work jacket that fits great too but it’s a XL.

    Frankly, I don’t think there’s any special technique or method other than the approach you’d take for any (broadly) similar non-leather jacket.

    Actual measurements and then comparison to jackets you own is the tried and, generally, true method.

    Probably the things to consider are:

    1. The cut (or style) of the jacket. I think that’ll probably have more impact than anything else. Some styles are supposed to be ‘over’ coats; some are designed to be fitted; some may be copies of a particular era which can influence the fit; and so on ...

    2. The complexity of the jacket will influence the fit. A jacket with a lot of small panels in its makeup will feel more constrictive than one with fewer and larger panels.

    3. The lining. Clearly an unlined jacket will feel quite different from one that has a lining. Also a lining such as silk or rayon will give you a different feeling of fit than say flannel, because the clothes you wear under the jacket will move differently.

    Nothing there is much different to choosing a non-leather jacket. You mention your deck jacket and how well it fits - my guess is you thought about the impact the wool lining might have had; and you mention your MIJ jacket is a different tag size ... so it seems you know how to size for your taste. I doubt you’d have too many issues sizing a leather jacket.

  3. And since I’ve been spamming the thread (sorry), here’s my Journeyman - which Freewheelers describe as ‘Jet Black’. It’s not, it’s more brown than black. FW blacks are rarely as they describe them ...

    journeyman.jpg
     

    ... and BTW , it’s still for sale ...

  4. 16 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

    ^Cheers, but no diamond stitch and not rainbow stitched like my old Bootleggers contest pair? Are they an older model of 47's?

    Yes these are the originals - you have a pair of ‘specials’

    TBH I think these are the best levi-esque arcs on any jeans anywhere - I love the shape and how the arcs splay slightly, perfect balance. Only the lightning bolts top them but they’re unique for their own reasons.

  5. 1 hour ago, Broark said:

    Shitty year no doubt, once we get EMS back on track I'll be reaching out for a few things.
    Just seems silly to buy several shirts right now, all I wear right now is t-shirts since I don't really have to be presentable...

    Common sense :happy:

    48 minutes ago, Dr_Heech said:

    Which model are they btw?

    47s

  6. 12 minutes ago, Broark said:

    Well played. :D I haven't forgotten, just not really prioritizing shirts right this second.
    I'm working from home and not really going anywhere so...I do still want to order a few. :ph34r:

    I’m only joking - he’s a good guy, and you’ll get well treated whatever you decide on and whenever you want it. It’s been a shitty old year as it’s turned out

  7. 2 hours ago, tod said:

    With my RDTs I was surprised to find that the metal toe taps wore out faster than the sole. And they were very slippery.  As Posted here before, I had them re-soled early on with wedge soles, which have held up very well (better than the RDT uppers!).

    The toe taps will always wear quicker - they’re merely an added layer of protection that’s supposed to be replaced. It’s more daft (IMO) to take the time to cut away a piece of the nitrile sole, which is very durable, and replace that part with a piece of leather, which is less durable, then screw on a toe tap.

  8. Strikes me that the majority of soles we see on the popular boot brands here are Vibram - so I guess we should just refer to them for guidance on durability, grip etc.

    https://eu.vibram.com/on/demandware.static/-/Sites-VibramEU-Library/default/dw8760b92c/pdfs/RepairCatalogue_EN.pdf

    @julian-wolf I’m a fan of Lofgren engineers and I have the M-43 which I really like (although in clear second to the engineer) but those Mocs have made sure I’ll not likely invest anything further.

    @Cocoa_Lapin Those ‘Blakey’s’ that RDT use are just a throwback to a distant era. The daft thing is, they have cut away the more durable sole at the toe to add a bit of leather and a steel plate ... which doesn’t last as long as the main sole unit 

  9. 6 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

    I wrote with them on IG but can't say anything about the quality of the product or the leather they use.

    That was kinda where I was going with them. They say very little (of any consequence) about the product/materials ... but there’s some nice styling going on

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