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Duke Mantee

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Everything posted by Duke Mantee

  1. Duke Mantee
    An inch on the inseam?
  2. Duke Mantee
    One wash doesn’t shrink - tightens after washing then loosens. The denim stretches pretty much like most denim … it all depends on how much force is applied to it
  3. Duke Mantee
    https://freewheelers.co.jp/about/brand/great_lakes.html This is (briefly) what the Great Lakes sub brand is about. It’s a fairly wide ranging idea, but if you dig a little you’ll start to understand the concepts and even the garment construction which is often quite different (this is something each sub brand will demonstrate).
  4. Duke Mantee
    I’ve got a feeling Sushi has a hand in this … there’s also a special Stay Brave sweat
  5. Duke Mantee
    … in conjunction with Freewheelers
  6. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Duke Mantee replied to cecil's topic in superdenim

    I haven’t put on that much weight
  7. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Duke Mantee replied to cecil's topic in superdenim

    Yeah - sorry - kinda quoting myself when I said earlier the last couple for the holidays, then I got a request I could sneak in January will be the next belts (if I’m asked) 👍
  8. Duke Mantee
    Alran Sully chèvre, MeiSi threads, RiRi zip and Hasi Hoto snaps … pretty much the best spec of every component … for our postie 20 pieces of leather and about 1000 stitches
  9. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Duke Mantee replied to cecil's topic in superdenim

    Definitely the last: Wickett & Craig harness and Japanese hardware
  10. Duke Mantee
    47s don’t run bigger
  11. Duke Mantee
    Perfect fit - the shoulder and upper chest areas are key
  12. Duke Mantee
  13. Duke Mantee
    I only say interesting because I’ve never owned Full Count
  14. Duke Mantee
    Interesting … Every pair of FW denims I’ve owned (and that’s not a small amount) have stretched at least 1 inch through normal wear - some of the heavier used pairs will be nearly 2 inches … although those pairs are pretty much wrecked
  15. Duke Mantee
    That’s got as much to do with the cut of the jeans and the size of your arse as it has to do with waist size 😂
  16. Duke Mantee
    So we’ve got a handful of DMs and a couple of public posts from the same person asking the same question? A question that seems to have been answered in more or less the same way each time? @dada mafiosi are you just trying to find someone who will agree with your approach to give you comfort in your decision making? If you have a method you’re happy with then there’s no need for all the fuss - just buy the small size and stretch the fuck out of them. The only thing we ask is you share fit pics please …
  17. Duke Mantee
    I’ve already responded when asked this question by DM, but to buy an actual 34 waist denim to fit an actual 36 waist is a complete nonsense by my reckoning. While it is possible the waistband could stretch by nearly 2 inches, the rest of the fit does not, and neither will threads, buttonholes etc. Beyond that, the waist of a human can expand nearly two inches more on any given time of day (food, food waste and the digestive process). My 33W are now nearly 35W … my actual waist is (was) 33
  18. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Duke Mantee replied to cecil's topic in superdenim

    Last couple for a while I think - Christmas is coming Classic ‘dress’ belt in Sedgwick bridle Wickett & Craig bridle, 2x snake, malachite and tiger eye gems and antique brass hardware
  19. Duke Mantee

    Belts

    Duke Mantee replied to cecil's topic in superdenim

    Wickett & Craig heavyweight bridle, snakeskin, vintage glass and antique nickel hardware
  20. Duke Mantee
    All FW ‘jean’ denim is developed specifically for and by them - in fact they tend to take that approach with a lot of fabrics where possible. The ‘standard’ denim was developed from bootleggers denim into the denim we first saw in the 47 then in other articles, each time with a different dye mix (eg the 51, 39 etc) Since then they’ve developed a couple of other denims (S601, 50622 etc) - usually with a subtle variations or emphasis on the warp, nep, tension etc
  21. Duke Mantee
    I think the 506XX ‘22 is new denim - not the same as the 601XX ‘22
  22. Duke Mantee
    250% 🤫 Basically it doesn’t take much movement of the baseline to create some heavy duty variations up top … using percentages really (deliberately) fucks things up
  23. Duke Mantee
    Are we considering how much ‘markup’ affects all this
  24. Duke Mantee
    If we don’t know what an item entails, is it fair to say that item is expensive? I totally understand something might be unaffordable but that’s really not the same thing. What about trying to break the thing down and examine the value?
  25. Duke Mantee
    Injection moulded plastic frames are probably best avoided if possible - you’ll be better served with acetate (or metal depending on style). Barrel hinges are strong - more barrels (generally) means more strength … 5 and 7 barrels are now fairly common. I guess though you’ve got to identify how you use your glasses … eg do you take them off and put them on often or leave them for long periods, handling can cause them to warp and or weaken; do you use them for work (what’s the environment); do you use them for sport etc I had some Dita frames for about 10 years and my current Jacques Marie Mage frames are about 8 years old - all had lenses swapped as my prescription changed … no significant issues with any other than clumsiness
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