Snake

The new flannel color combinations are some of the worst I have seen from any brand.

I am told that this is only part 1 of the upcoming F/W collection. Part 2 will be next month.

Yeah, the model shown is 168cm/5'6". I am 5'10". If you are taller, then it probably won't look like that. By the way, how do you guys embed instagram post?    

@Duke Mantee I don't know how all they all get the collar standing straight up. The collar is not reinforced and the fabric is soft after the first wash. For me, they just lay flat and spread out.

@Broark Its based on the M1942 trouser but the top block, thigh and waist are a bit bigger. The leg opening seems normal like other FW tapered trouser. If you wear them with a double cuff like how I wear my M1942, the taper will not be as pronounced.

On 5/11/2020 at 8:22 PM, aho said:

^Nice Sinn as well ;D

Thanks! Good eye. It has been my daily for about three years now. A simple, understated, high contrasting design.

@Broark Don't sleep on the Washburn. It's a pullover dress shirt. Fabric is made from cotton, rayon and linen. Really unique. Thick yet very breathable fabric. I would recommend the Langford as well but the band collar isn't for everyone though there is a regular collar version.

Here is me wearing the white/sax Washburn with Miller trouser in navy moleskin.

10 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

I think I’m right in saying you won’t find these trademarks on any repro other than Freewheelers (and this is Freewheelers cloth if anyone is thinking otherwise)

You are right. I believe FW owns the Stifel trademark.

Ironall short sleeve shirt, linen/cotton chambray. With Collar tab hanging and tucked underneath the collar. 

10 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

@Broark I was just chatting to him about some stuff anyway (FW taking the piss out of Nike) so I asked him the question 

I just saw his IG post. Did a quick search on the web and found this. No wonder none of the retailers are showing pictures of the "Smoke 'em" and "Dope Runner" tee shirt. FW's design is more of a pipe with smoke coming out instead of the Swoosh. 

"Great logos can make a company. When a logo becomes prominent, it can also slip into the murky waters between design and trademark law. No Nike mark fits this situation better than what is officially termed the "Sunburst" log. The Sunburst design was initially sketched out by Nike's first employee, Jeff Johnson, after he saw the logo 1972 Olympic logo. (1972 Munich Logo) Nike's Trademark team filed the Sunburst in 1976 the US and it was registered in 1978. In the early 1980s Nike decided to move away from using it all together. Because the mark was not being used on product for sale, Nike was unable to renew the US registration. But, as the saying goes, everything old is new again. A new generation of designers began playing with history, and wanted to involve the Sunburst. So in 2008, Nike again filed trademark application to register Sunburst and gave Nike Sportswear the permission to use it as a brand mark, with the understanding that they don't alter the classic Sunburst design in any way. "The Sunburst is really, truly, in its infancy, like the Swoosh was back in its infancy in the 1970s." said Sedler. "So because of that, we have to be more pristine in our use of the Sunburst because it hasn't gained its fame yet." Which, of course, begs the question: How can a logo created in the early 1970s be considered in its infancy? Its an answer better left to the lawyers"

Groundskeeper

Locomotive Fireman, Indigo Check, 80% cotton/20% Linen

On 5/6/2020 at 12:09 PM, JDelage said:

As someone who does not appreciate collar tabs, I'm fascinated by the collar tabs on the Engineer, Brakeman, and Ironall shirt. They have a button on the tab, button hole side, so that the wearer can fold over the tab when not needed. Very cool. Here's an example on the Ironall, thanks to Klamp on Rakuten:

It's cool design. I like it too. I haven't seen it from other brands. FW only put it on shirts with oversized collar tab. I noticed FW's earlier shirt pattern has smaller collars. Newer shirt pattern has bigger collars and FW increase the size of the collar tab on some models as you mentioned.

@Iron Horse Very informative. Really appreciate the posts on collar design and pocket placement.

@Duke Mantee That's quite a shirt collection. I don't think I have that many but I am not too far behind.

@ecsong187 I doubt the Serviceman is still available. It's from 2012. You can check out the Ironalls short sleeve shirt. It's the last chambray short sleeve shirt release by FW.

@SLAB Yeah, I know what you mean. The version I am wearing is beige x brown and somehow it looks light grey. 

Fearless is perfect for the Summer. Light weight wide herringbone fabric.

Serviceman blue grey chambray and Fearless trouser

I lost the left pocket button.

Under the collar and shoulder area.

@the shivman Yeah, same here.

I was reading the Gandy Dancer and Bakehead fabric descriptions from Genco, the chain pattern discharge print is achieved differently than the wabash fabric. The pattern is achieved by dyeing post vs pre dyed twill? I am not that knowledgable about this. I thought wabash stripe is achieved by applying dye resist after the yarn is woven into the twill fabric, not before. Maybe it's lost in translation. Can anyone shed some light on this?

Google translate

"The fabric is made from 10.5 ounce cotton twill with a striped discharge print of a chain pattern. (cotton 100%)
When making this fabric, I tried applying the discharge print of this chain pattern stripe to the conventional Wabash type dyed twill fabric, and it was said that the chain pattern was too fine to print cleanly. After trial and error, by performing a dye-printing with a stripe pattern on a post-dyed twill, that is, a twill that is dyed at the stage of the fabric, not at the stage of the yarn, instead of the pre-dyed twill base such as the Wabash system. , It is said that it is now possible to produce such a beautiful chain pattern.
So, at first glance it looks like a Wabash system, but I think that you can enjoy a different discoloration feeling than the Wabash system.
(Probably the color fading is slower than that of Black Wabash.)"

@Duke Mantee I love Warlock and Kesey, especially Kesey. Looking at all your work shirt pictures reminds me of the issue of pocket placement with other brands. Some brands place the pockets way too high on the chest. I maybe alone in this but it looks awkward aesthetically.

60s vibe. Warlock (discharge print purple chambray) and Allan (cotton herringbone).

@JDelage Nice fit on the Skid Row. I like the reptile green x charcoal combo. The tee might shrink a little with wash.

@ecsong187  Fit on those 47 is spot on. I plan on soaking mine this weekend and make it my primary pair.

@Smallrod Looking good. Please keep posting. Love to see how they turn out in a few months.

12 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

They’d be happier with my mannequin 

Don't sell yourself short. Have you seen the bearded fella on their "Concept" page? Horrible. You as model with Cory aka banditphotographer taking the pictures would be fire.

I see what you mean now with the Brakeman shirt. It does run bigger than the usual. At my size (16), chest measurement is about an inch bigger and overall length is much longer which forces you to wear it tucked. For larger sizes, the difference must be more pronounced.

13 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

Freewheelers Brakeman, Vintage 5oz Cotton 60%/Linen 40% Chambray, Light Indigo #1723007 (worst FW shirt ever - they f-cked up the shrinkage)

Mind elaborate a bit more? I have this shirt and I am quite happy with it. For me, this title goes to the Painted Desert Shirt in vintage 50% cotton/50%wool serge fabric. Pattern was way off. Shoulder and chest were one size smaller while shirt and sleeve length were right for the size.

@Double 0 Soul Yeah, I still pick up a few pieces from each collection. I don't really buy other brands. As far as denim, no new addition in the last few years except the 1943 601xx and Lot 506xx 1943 jacket. I still have a few jeans in my closet that I collected from my early days....Warehouse, Real McCoy, Sugar Cane, TCB and Oni that I need to break in. Changed job a few years back and I can't wear jeans to work anymore due to company dress code. I wear mostly denim on weekends and workwear type trouser in herringbone, corduroy, discharge print, moleskine, and chino during the week. I like vintage cuts and I haven't seen any new jeans in the last few years that add to what I already have in my collection.

On a different note, I am excited about the Gandy Dancer Overalls in grained brown random stripe from this year's Spring collection. Same fabric (I think) as the Conductor vest FW released in 2015. Should be available next month.

@Duke Mantee About 6 or 7 machine washes.

@Double 0 Soul I see. I always wondered what happened. I was under the impression DB were created after some issues here and it's ironic DB experienced issues of its own and it is what it is today. I was also under the impression that some contributors were told not to post too often in a particular thread so its not always at the top or something like that. No first hand knowledge, just my observation from reading between the lines when I was active at DB. I could be wrong.

I regret not picking up the Bakehead in vintage Wabash finish. At the time I thought I could achieve similar results by wearing mine often but damn it's hard to get to that state of wear.

@Duke Mantee Did FW produce two different finish for the NPR? Steel blue and sun bleached steel blue? or that was the description for it?

1951 601XX

1951 601XX

@Suitedupmon Thanks man, appreciate it. 

@Double 0 Soul It's been a while. Not sure what happened with DB. Its like a ghost town over there.

@Duke Mantee The collar stays flat for me. I think it has more to do with the fabric. My Brakeman shirt in chambray has a high collar and it stays up.

@the shivman I prefer the Stromberg over the Big Chief for the exact same reason. Plus the mustard/black combo is killer.

Here in southern CA, it went from winter to summer in a day.

Military Utility and M1942

An old picture of me wearing the groundskeeper.