ATWM

This is tough because this is 4 (?) different patterns being tested here too, right? And then for me, I really don’t feel I can assess fit from raws until I’ve had a good week or two in the jeans and things have settled out a bit. But, having gotten a 30’s fit and erring on the larger of the two sizes I was debating, I’m not ready to say I would take any out of the seat. It’s not snug, but if I’d wanted that I wouldn’t have chosen the size nor the 30’s fit - and when you get a bit looser these things are all less consequential. I think the seat is probably a little more fitted than 0105’s with a similar waist - which are definitely anti-fit. I find this 30’s cut sort of in between.

@Jared_Lee I think I can see what you mean, though it’s maybe less noticeable to me since I wanted a looser fit overall. I also never can really fill the backside too well as is, ha. After wearing for just half a day the denim has settled down and stretched some to the point where I wonder if could have gone down a size and had a nice fit. Im glad I didn’t, given the room I was looking for - but I’m actually using the cinch already. My impression - by waist alone since I don’t have a comparable cut, is that these actually some out slightly more generous than Ooe sizing - though I may not have gotten all the shrink out. I did a steaming hot soak with hand agitation followed by a warm wash and hang dry.

To my mind it’s pretty straightforward- probably 12 oz raw, ~14 oz washed. Not notably hairy or irregular in any way. A little crunchy but a bit soft at the same time, I think it will end up on the softer, drapier side of things, but it’s not that way after an initial soak + wash. Honestly, the closest comparison I probably have in my closet is in terms of raw and washed feel is Ooe.

Will get pics sometime this week but these shrunk up to a fit that I’m really quite happy with and think I’ll be pleased to have these as my primary pair for some time. I’ve got a bit more room through the leg than I’m used to (as was the hope), the waist shrunk to 73 cm and has already comfortably stretched to wherever it needs to be. Length is perfect, shrunk exactly the way we were advised - just enough for a little turn up. Great pattern, or maybe I’ve been missing 30’s models my whole life.

That’s rough! We may (or may not, because who the hell knows) be paying those soon enough here in the U.S. I remember long ago when I lived in NZ for a time my mom sent me a care package of some items from home I had wished I packed, and did it all by the book. I had to pay some $300+ just to pick it up. I can’t remember what jacked up the fee so much, but it was well used whatever it was.

Happily my pair landed, even much earlier in than the day than I'd have thought. Got a quick try on - I think these will be good. I'm too lazy for measurements - I tend to just try em on and if I feel I've sized well enough I just leave it alone and trust that whatever math I did upon ordering had some coherence to it. I have some room in the waist, it will likely be a little snug up there post wash but I think will stretch back out nicely - I don't need it to stretch back out to raw. The rest of the pants seem to have room to shrink all over, but nothing crazy. The length is the wildcard - room to cuff or not? Probably a little... I'd agree on the TCB/Ooe spectrum - my pair seems quite nicely made, pocket bags seem about just right sized - stitching isn't Ooe level tidiness but with some snips I think it would be pretty close, and I also think that's not so much the intent anyways. Really pretty much just as I'd hoped for a raw 30's pair. Simone did a nice job and knowing it's going to a one man operation I think these are worth every penny. Shame I can't get into it until the weekend!

@beautiful_FrEaK AlienToyWorkMachine!

Magically, mine is now slated for delivery today. However - the snow is coming down at the moment and my local isn't always spot on with the delivery day. Since I'll be out of town tomorrow I'm realistically thinking I get to start over the weekend, possibly Monday. I'm slightly fluffier than I when I ordered, but hoping I allowed for enough room (maybe not!) and would prefer to shrink the piss out of them on the first go, but I won't be machine drying - I don't tend to do that until I'm like 4-5 washes in, if at all. Still on the fence about how I'll go with this pair, it depends on the fit, really.

Last update for me “ International Transit Processed Through Facility MALPENSA LONATEPOZZOLO, ITALY January 10, 2025, 8:38 am “ Have to head out of town on Thursday, so may miss delivery by a few days!

^ same here - or last scan 3 days ago was Italy. I’d bet they’ll pop up in customs tomorrow or so. 18 months though, I can start a few days behind.

The addition of “crust” into the contest lexicon seems a good AI contribution. Not sure how to work it in but I bet it will be appropriate for at least a pair or two out there…

Opposite - A bit fuller in the lower leg. If you want slimmer you want the 02 cut. But again, the difference is mostly in the lower leg.

A Collective Word of Mouth Pants Wearing Experience I always wanted to be in a lightly serious cult.

That sunlight in the back is almost too much for my old phone's relatively shitty sensor, but anyways. The Warehouse jacket shrunk up pretty nicely, still a little roomy but knowing Warehouse there's a bit more shrink to be had.. Ooe jeans/ Oak Street boots.

It’s quite possible the tracking email arrived in my mailbox right before I made that post, haha - so yes I’ve got tracking too. Whenever they arrive I’m grateful to Simone for cranking out a batch of handmade jeans for a bunch of us. Hoping I can do them justice!

Nevermind!

^ are these the xx4 denim? They look a good bit more crinkly/puckered than mine, which have been washed a solid 10-15 times now, but not tumble dried. Any tumbles on yours?

I’ll wear mine for between one day and 546 days - whether they fit or not! My real hope is to get at least something like 3-400 days of wear, but summer, fit and other factors might come into play. Like the fact that my Ooe 01’s are just starting to be an actual broken in pair (after almost a year, and I’m enjoying them. If history is any guide, 546 days is probably not enough for me to thrash a pair (though I never did tally the wear on…anything), but the crotch may need reinforcing and darning by day 100ish, if I get there.

I love espresso, and have gotten my basic breville barista express - (with the stock grinder even!) down to the point that I usually pull better shots than most cafes I go to, or anywhere, for that matter. It brings me a lot of happiness to get up each morning and make my wife and my drinks, and sit down and write for awhile. I know a few local or Chicago area roasters that make wonderful espresso blends - medium roast, and consistently get nice creamy shots with very little bitterness or sourness. I know it gets deeper than that, but no need for us to do that. When I travel I’ll use a picopresso with a st Anthony millwright grinder and it’s more finicky for sure, but I get good results more often than not. I’ve gotten a few really good shots from it but the average is probably a little below what I get from a cafe. Still, for a travel set up, fantastic. I initially switched to espresso because I just can’t drink a lot of coffee without getting too anxious and feeling my heart pounding - usually a doppio a day and that’s it - on occasion a doppio or a moka pot of half caf (neither ever as good of course) before noon - and it was easiest to consistently dose my caffeine by pulling shots as opposed to Chemex or drip as I used to do. Every few months or so, I try to take 4-8 weeks off from caffeine as well. Tapering down helps minimize with the headaches. It’s a great way to understand how much of a psychoactive stimulant this thing really is and even though I tend to sleep well anyways, after a week or two of no coffee I get some of the best sleep ever, usually just about until I start drinking it again.

Just a note to say that overcast days are the easiest conditions to reveal accurate textures of something, especially if you make your pictures outside or near a window in a neutral colored environment. Color is a bit of a different matter - but all else being equal it’s not a bad bet as well. There are other variables of course, exposure and white balance - but cell phones tend to do a decent job at both these days. Noting this because sometimes I don’t quite understand the knock on the conditions to make a photograph - if it’s cloudy out it’s fine - preferable even - if it’s too dark just expose for the subject and not the scene around it (ie on your iPhone make sure the exposure is locked/based on the person or garment as opposed to the background) Do I apply any of this for Sufu pics? Pretty much no, lol. But, photography is actually my craft.

My gut says fck that to high heavens, even if that’s not so rational. Can’t see how quality won’t get lower and prices won’t get higher over time. That’s a real shame. Even if it stays the same, I’d hate for another dollar of mine to make it into their accounts. It’s the thing I dislike most about my birks!

I ordered this Celluloid/Warehouse anniversary jacket - the WW2 Tailor jacket - in early 2024 and it finally came. It’s a coarse/rough/chunky feeling denim, quite dark, unwashed. AFAIK They call it their WW2 denim. When I ordered I somehow missed the bit about the delivery date and thought it was in stock, only to find out it was going to be the better part of a year. Color is most accurate in the close up picture of the placket and the sleeve. https://www.celluloid1984.com/?pid=180239828 It’s sort of combination of Duck Digger and Dead Stock Blue. Apparently they only made 60 of them. I’m a little nervous about the shrunk fit in the shoulders, but everywhere else definitely needs the shrink. This one really was sort of a shot in the dark but it was too unique a piece for me to pass up when it came out. It’s funny how tastes slowly change - I’m not sure I would order it now if it popped up, but I’m not mad that it’s finally here. This doesn’t count as a 2025 buy! If it doesn’t shrink up to a good fit throughout I will probably let it go, but I’m hoping it does!

^possible to proxy?

Thing is, if I succeed in going the duration of this contest and save what I might spend on jeans in a normal year, I could do it. My collection at this point says that over time it’s not so much a matter of funding (although to a pair, it certainly feels like it) but actually curation and restraint. I’ve been curious about putting in a long go of some naturally dyed jeans and while SDA seem the obvious option, who knows. I’ve been able to resist anything since the contest was agreed upon, so there’s that!