commodorewheeler

Looks like the Zero models are up on BiG site. No measurement charts and only one pic, though, but they can be ordered. They are up on Rakuten as well already:

http://en.item.rakuten.com/rudeystore/bb094/

http://en.item.rakuten.com/and-japan/10001396/

Black version:

http://en.item.rakuten.com/rudeystore/bb095/

The thing to be careful with deerskin is if the leather is full of oils prior to being exposed to high heat, it will end up darkening dramatically (more so than cattlehide).

I would oil the patch a day before washing, and just prior to washing I would rub in a thin layer of wax based mixture into the leather, allowing it to dry and then washing it.

Although deerskin handles water better, it's never a good idea to wash any leather with very hot water.

Yeah, the LP definitely darkens the leather, regardless of whether it is deerskin or cowhide, but it does seem to darken the deerskin faster.

how does the patch (new 18oz) hold up to hot water? i need these to shrink...

If you tell me what type of leather the patch is made of (type of animal, thickness, tannage, etc), I may be able to provide you with general advice.

I have no experience with the new patches, but if it's the dear skin patch like the previous batch of 2010, then they should be able handle water better than cowhide.

According to BiG, the new patches are indeed deerskin. All the same, I would recommend putting on a coat of Obenauf's LP before the soak to minimize the chances of cracking or disproportionate shrinking on the patch.

Mine had an attempted delivery but I was out of town. For EMS, will they just be at my post office (USPS)?

I should be able to get em tomorrow!

They should be. Sometimes they will attempt a redelivery, but most of the time, they don't.

Unless your post office has Sunday pick-up for Express Mail packages, you might have to wait until Monday to get them.

Can anyone here give me some info on the D1466?

I ordered some 103s the other day. Turns out they're a half inch larger raw than the last run, not sure if the waist will shrink enough for my taste after several hot washes. So I'm thinking about sending them back and buying the D1466 instead.

My only real questions are shrinkage (guessing inch, inch and a half in the waist. .5inch elsewhere) and if they're pure or natural indigo. BiG lists it as "Genuine indigo."

The D1466 is a zip fly model that is cut fairly similar to the SD-103. Supposedly its denim is tightly woven yet a bit slubby at the same time, something that you don't see too often.

I don't own this model, but I think your shrinkage estimates will be pretty accurate for this one, since it is a tightly woven denim.

Also, the D1466 is not a natural indigo model.

Any one know if the Musashi model is double indigo, or over dyed.

It is not double indigo or overdyed. It has indigo warp threads and black weft yarns, though, so it will be darker than most raw denim.

You sure they're 005BK? Looks a lot more like 009

I bought them from a regular user of Superdenim, who sold them me as 005's, but you might be right. Whats the difference?

The main difference is that the measurements do not match those of 005 or any slim cut PBJ. The 005 also uses a cowhide leather patch as opposed to the deer skin leather patch used on the 007/009/011 etc. And the color matches that of 007/009 as well..

Those are 007s, not 009s. The 009 has a tapered leg, the leg on his is really straight from the knee down.

Either way, they're definitely not the 005-BKs. They're not black, plus the BKs have a white weft.

second wash for my SDA 103XX (the natural indigo version).

Beautifully-crafted jeasn. THe denim is obviously influenced the the late 40s Levi's look - slow crocking, loose weave, lots of weft yarn visble. Even after a good amount of spot washing and soaking and washing, the warp yarn still hasn't filled out, they still have a lot of the graininess of new jeans. Note also that these marble like crazy for some reason (and i took them out before the spin cycle).

Looks great, Paul! Love the way that natural indigo fades.

Question for anyone out there...What model would fit closest to some Levi's 501's? Or some Nudie bootcut Ola's. I've had my eye on some S710xx's but...

My Ola's I feel aren't really true bootcut, they seem just a tiny bit bigger in the leg opening than my 501's. But these two pairs are what I feel are the best cut for me. Not super skinny, but slim and fitted.

I've had IH 634 and Flathead f380's and didn't like how they fit overall. Waist on both pairs were perfect, but the butt was to big looking, and the overall look on both pairs wasn't quite slim/fitted enough for me. I'm 5'8" 145lbs, regular build for a white kid. hahaha

Any guidance would be amazing.

Samurai isn't really known for slim cuts, but the 3 you might like if you felt the 634 and F380 weren't slim enough for you are the 710, the 500, and the S003JP.

love the rainbow selvage!

Cool selvage, which model is that?

its slimmer then the 1101 i believe, but with a higher rise

The measurement chart numbers indicate that the 1103 is slimmer than the 1101, but in the pictures, it looks like the 1103 is a much fuller cut. Kiya, can you clarify?

PBJs just sold over the weekend. Let's bring the Sams back up to the top. I will still consider trades for other Japanese denim in the size 32-34 range.

the only thing is that i dont want the jeans to shrink in the knee/thigh area or else theyd be soaked already

could stand to lose some starch

Cold soak would probably cause insignificant shrinkage if you don't have room to spare.

but since theyre lightly sanforized, they dont need to be soaked, amirite?

to my knowledge, unsanforized denim needs to be soaked and sanforized (like ih) does not need to be

"lightly" sanforized is could mean anything. Regardless, i wont soak em

"Lightly" sanforized jeans like Skulls and Momotaros will still shrink by an amount somewhere between unsanforized and sanforized denim. Personally, I would soak.

selfedges are one wash? their website says "lightly sanforized" which doesnt really indicate if theyre washed or not

The Skulls at Self Edge are sold raw.

Yea they'll be fine after a month and thanks Zubin!

Also I didn't soak mine originally. Am I going to regret it??

You might get an early crotch blowout from not soaking, but that's about it.

I hope those 1507 have a long inseam.

According to the Rakuten pages, they have about a 37.5" raw inseam.

@@

Very similar to the SP 013; is the fit the same as well? I feel my SP 013s are little bit less rare and limited than they used to be, as there are so many similarities. If you missed out on the SP 013, this is highly recommendable. The fabric is insanely comfy when worn in, and after the first 6-7 months of wear, the indigo bleeding picks up more rapidly. Oh, and the blue, the blue.. Such a blue.

I've heard conflicting reports on the fit, most say it fits like the SD-103/D003, but one store says it fits more like the SD-101 (and therefore, the SP-013).

I've also heard that the denim is similar but not identical, that it isn't dipped as many times into the natural indigo on the D1507 as it is on the SP-013.

EDIT: After further research, these are almost definitely the SD-103 cut, and it looks like they are actually dipped 30 times in the natural indigo like the SP-013s.

if i remember correctly..Giles said he was gonna do another cut in the SR material..but I may be thinking of something else so don't quote me.

quoting you! There was enough SR denim to make 400 pairs.. its gone now and no more will be made.

I think Giles was referring to the new slubby 18 oz. unsanforized denim in terms of doing another cut. Pretty sure that thewickett is correct in saying that the 634SR denim is all gone.

yeah I saw that on the cuffs, but the jeans themselves didn't look purple. How true to color are the photos? Had not considered purple faces until you posted those pics.

The purple faces turn more blue as they wear in. The pictures should be pretty true to color.

oh thanks a bunch. are these still left hand twill? i kind of want something slimmer than my warehouse 660s. maybe something similar to an ironheart 301s fit.

As far as I know, the XX-013 has never been left hand twill. It's RHT.

Rang Rang. 3 weeks. 1st wash next week, will update.

Shade:

Direct sun:

Nice! That Flat Head LHT is fading fast and good!

well, since BiG doesnt have xx-013s, would you recommend going 2 down on xx-011?

They do have them in stock in a full range of sizes, they just list them in the Blue in Green brand section of the site, not the PBJ brand section.

I seriously didn't know anything about this jean except for the 22 oz denim. But looking at it, I am contemplating buying a pair. The darkness is amazing, although the 33 fits almost exactly the same as my 33 SExIH07BK albeit slightly smaller in the knee and longer rise. My 07BK was weird though, came with an 8" LO rather than 8.5" on the measurement table.

Is your pair of SExIH07s unusually slim? From the sizing charts, the new Dry Bones collab seems to be a lot slimmer in the leg than the SExIH07s.

Wow, those look good. But way to many jeans I want ahead of those

Has anyone seen those natural indigo dye jeans that SDA is coming out with?

Are you talking about the D1507s? Those are out now too.