rodeo bill

22 hours ago, JDelage said:

Do you have other special 10 yr anniversary items coming? Although I realize that pretty much everything you make is small batch & limited in nature...

Thanks for this. Yes, I do! A couple of little things, and one bigger thing, coming up over the coming weeks. More soon...

2 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@rodeo bill the 900 and liner look superb... spot on, great work William.  Interested in size charts as can't see them on the stores - would you prefer to post sizes here or should we mail you direct?  

thank you so much all! Here are some measurements:

Size 2
Shoulders: 18.5"
Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 23"
Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"
Full length: 27"
 
Size 3
Shoulders: 19.5"
Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 24"
Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"
Full length: 27"
 
Size 4
Shoulders: 20.5"
Chest (armpit-to-armpit): 25"
Sleeve length (under arm): 21.5"
Full length: 27.5”

Size 5
Shoulders: 21"
Chest (armpit to armpit): 26"
Sleeve length (under arm): 22"
Full length: 28”

I've not measured size 1 or 6 yet, please let me know anyone if you'd like these. Very happy to put them here or do them by email.

1 hour ago, JDelage said:

I suppose it's sized like the unlined version of 2019?

sorted by email (and thank you!) but yes indeed this is the same fabric and pattern as before. The Old North version came up a little differently, as it was in a different fabric.

1 hour ago, Jurassic said:

@rodeo bill 900 look great, will they be coming in any other fabrics/dyes?

This run is only in woad, as a nod back to the first run. I hope to make some more Unborn or other dye jackets at some point in future, but I’m intending to only do woad dye with this special liner, and the 10th anniversary buttons.

Here's a bonus couple of photos:

the new jacket next to my own 10 year old original:

and a fit pic, size 3, with the screen-printed and hand-coloured (with a sharpie!) tote bag that comes with the jacket (or available separately):

and a bonus picture of the 10 years special button master being engraved:

Thanks all! Yes indeed Broark, the other new jackets are very nice too, and a little dressier. Fingers crossed they'll be in for the end of the month, too- I'll keep you posted.

7 hours ago, Broark said:

The A/W 2020 photos look really nice Bill! The Weavers Stock flannel pullovers almost have a rugby shirt vibe to them.
Looking forward to the 900 jacket restock, what denims will it be available in?

thank you! and yes I really like rugby shirts. these are cut with straight sleeves and no cuff, so they have a definite sporty feel to them.

900 jackets will be in the standard 16oz selvage denim, the same as the first run, dyed with woad, and

2 hours ago, sensy said:

Oooh, when's that vest in the last photo gonna be available?

the vest is the removable liner for the jacket! as with the original model, but this has been upgraded a bit- it's really special. More info when garments are in stock!

17 hours ago, Nei.Nor said:

I just saw the new season has appeared on the website! Love the pictures! Tell us more!!

Thank you! I'm delighted you like the look of the new things. The photos were taken on medium format film with vaseline around the edges of a skylight filter over the lens- I really like the flare and smudginess this gives the pictures.

The shirts are made from Welsh flannels, cut very large and then hot washed, so that they shrink to size (still quite generous) and get a great thickness and softness, while still wearing surprisingly light. There are two styles- a WS420 Tail shirt, and a WS412 Pullover Shirt, with a half-length placket. The buttons are white melamine, and the seams are overlocked and topstitched in white thread, which gives a really nice utilitarian contrast to the fabrics, I think. There's a very nice Weaver's Stock lined jacket coming in the next couple of weeks, more of this once I have it.

17 hours ago, Nei.Nor said:

In particular, is the type 900 jacket exactly the same as the original or are there any changes? Also, will we possibly see the coat version as well [915 was it?]?

The jackets (and jeans) in these photos are a mix of my own jeans from the first season, 10 years ago(!) and the new one. The 900 Jacket is pretty much exactly the same as the original, with a couple of small updates which I think make it even nicer (I appreciate this sounds ominous, but the new ones really are something special). The liners are being sewn at the moment, and I hope to have jackets in stock in the next couple of weeks.

Autumn/Winter 2020 was planned pre-pandemic, but it's turned out rather timely, I think. The idea was to do a couple of long-awaited reissues to celebrate ten years, and then some understated Weaver's Stock garments using really lovely fabrics. I'm hoping to continue to bring out some more reissues and special short runs over the coming months. I don't have a 990 coat at the moment (915 was the short jacket with half-moon pocket facings), but I'd certainly like to come back to it at some point. I think I only made about twelve of those first time round, and it's just the kind that I think would be really nice to revisit, now that more people are interested! I'm in the very privileged position of still working with the same machinists who made the originals of all these things, and the same weavers, so reissues really can be the same as the originals. More soon, but these shirts are on the Stores and delivering to retailers at the moment.

On 9/19/2020 at 5:05 PM, redragon said:

@rodeo bill Any chance you still have any size 2 in this fabric lying around?

Thanks @redragon! Sorry, not in the short sleeve, but I do have a long sleeve (type 492) in this fabric in a 2. Please just let me know if you need any more details.

20 hours ago, JDelage said:

That one is lovely. Is it this model?

https://www.tenderstores.com/product/type-493-short-sleeve-bench-shirt/

It's similar, but not quite the same. Oomslokop's is type 429, and the new 493 is a based on it. The main difference (asides from new fabrics and buttons) is that the 429 (and the long sleeve 422) has a simple shoulder seam and the 493 (and long sleeve 492) have an overlapping double shoulder, which looks like a dress shirt yoke from a distance, but is actually the front and the back panels sewn together with a wide double section between the stitch lines. The fabric in your link (indigo chambray tote cloth) is a little heavier than Ooms's shirt, but still a lovely mid-weight. It's a true indigo chambray, woven with the same indigo warp yarn as in Tender jeans denim, so it will fade and wear in beautifully. Here's a closeup:

@julian-wolf, that's a lovely shirt- there were just a few made for Oi Polloi, I think. I hope it goes to a good home!

you are my hero @oomslokop!

thank you so much guys! I really appreciate the kind words, and I'm always very happy to help. @persco_ (and others), I'm so sorry for the lack of jeans stock. Covid lockdowns have really hit my production schedule, and I'm trying to catch up on seasonal orders for stockists before doing restocks of jeans and other things. I am getting there, though, and I'm hoping to have jeans restocked by the end of the year. Please email me (if you haven't already) with what style and size you're after so that I can get back to you when I have something available.

In the meantime, here's another diagram, for the type 492 Bench Shirt:

On 8/25/2020 at 4:30 AM, heyson said:

@rodeo bill When will the new vest(s) hit the stores? 

thanks a lot for this, sorry for the slow reply. Do you mean this one?:

in which case it's type 748 Rower's Slipover, and is in stock now.

Please let me know if you're thinking of something else, either here or by email. 

On 8/15/2020 at 4:03 AM, julian-wolf said:

Hey @rodeo bill, any info on the henna-dyed cotton–linen handkerchief check fabric used for the Type 492?

Thanks for this! Sure- it's a lovely cloth. Handkerchief check is a lightweight ecru cotton twill, with a very widely spaced check of indigo dyed cotton (in the warp) and natural brown linen (in the weft). The idea comes from weaving handkerchiefs with decorative borders- the check is large enough that individual squares could be cut out and hemmed as individual handkerchiefs.

The henna dye is very subtle on cotton (it gives a stronger colour on wool) but it's a really lovely soft yellowish-green tone which really brings the fabric to life. Here are some photos:

Type 473 Sack Shirt. Here's the first SS20 shirt to start coming through, and I think it's a really nice one. I started thinking about pleats in the back to give extra body to the shirt without dropping the shoulders, and then I thought it'd be nice to put something into the shoulder itself. There's a nurse's uniform at the Fashion Museum in Bath which has big pleats into the back of the shoulders, and big side pockets. I played around with it a bit and added matching front pleats, so that the shirt has very full fronts as well as backs, but hangs normally from fitted shoulders. Here's a diagram:

This is the rinsed ecru cotton Tote Cloth which I have in stock on the Stores now. The fabric is woven in the UK and is a base fabric for tote bags. The buttons are pressed solid aluminium, also custom made in the UK.

10 hours ago, Nei.Nor said:

 

@redragon, William will correct me, but I think the crystal is acrylic (not sapphire), so a bit of toothpaste should get rid of any light scratches. Just apply a little bit and rub it with a clean cloth.

Thanks very much for this @Nei.Nor, and @redragon. The crystals are mineral, not acrylic. The first very few watches had old stock acrylic but there were some problems with smudging on the insides, which didn't look good. I've not had any scratching on mine (both my GS/TP watches have mineral crystals), but I've heard that toothpaste does also work on mineral crystal, although you have to rub a bit harder. I believe it's easier if you let the toothpaste dry out a little bit before you rub it, to reduce the amount of water and increase the abrasiveness.

12 hours ago, 428CJ said:

@rodeo bill

 

Cool. I have a pair too. I have a question. Did they shrink from their new size? If so, was it a lot? My first wash will be relatively soon, and I'm very curious what to expect. If they shrink quite a lot, then I will wash in hot water to get the shrink (they could use it).

nice! I'm sure we'd all love to see photos. As far as I can remember I didn't get much shrinkage from the original size, but these definitely stretch out a lot, so my guess is yours have stretched since you got them and will shrink back to size with a wash. I can pretty much only wear mine 3-4 days without them getting too loose and having to give them a wash- that's a big reason they've faded so gently.

25 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

 Would be good to see fit pics if you have chance.

Thanks! Here you go, front back and jaunty:

Buddy Lee update! Must be a couple of years occasional wear and plenty of washes, love these:

19 hours ago, Broark said:

Any word on if the Type 900 jacket will return this winter?
Looking back through this thread and there are some really nice worn examples, would love to have one of my own.

Thanks for this. That's the plan! My factory's only just opened back up after coronavirus lockdown, and there's a lot of catching up to do, but I hope to have some back in stock in time for the winter. Watch this space (or instagram)

On 4/25/2020 at 10:36 PM, satchelbmoore said:

I’ve been wearing the lightweight woad  Trews (134 I think??) a lot over quarantine.  What’s the denim specs on those, @rodeo bill? They are perfect for staying in while keeping your fade game going! Plus that blue! 

Thanks for these photos, amazing to see- I think you have a better collection than I do! Your lightweight denim trews (second from the bottom on this photo, right?) were a special in 2015, which I'd totally forgotten about- I had to check the original line book to remind myself. It was a very nice short run of Japanese 10oz denim, with less dips (15 not 25) than regular Tender denim, and a relatively loose weave, so I can see why it's nice at the moment. As it's a less deeply dyed colour to start with it also took the woad particularly nicely, and the colour still looks great- a bit brighter than regular woad jeans of this age, which tend to be a bit more mellow. There weren't many of these made, and I've not heard of any other since, so yours are really special to see!

And seconded I'd love to see more of your collection if you can!

 

thanks so much for posting these @redragon! I was hoping they'd be with you soon- the post has been pretty variable, so I've switched to UPS shipping for everything for now (they collect from our front step, too)- sorry that I sent your jeans just before things started slowing down. Your jeans are quite heavily worn, so the repairs are to keep some life in them structurally, but as their made on the same machine, and with the same thread, that they were originally sewn with they should wear in nicely and keep you going for a while yet.

Thanks again! it was lovely to see these back after so many years.

1 hour ago, julian-wolf said:

Great info as usual, @rodeo bill, thanks for this. On the same topic, do you have sizing info available for the glasses? Lens size / bridge width?

thanks for this Julian, and sure- I can give measurements for anything you like. Would you mind emailing me, please? and I can give specific measurements of whichever style(s) you're interested in. Thanks again!

On 3/27/2020 at 5:03 PM, julian-wolf said:

I remember Bill making a great post some time back about the production of the acetate sunglasses, but I'm not having any luck finding it. Anyone happen to have a link (or better forum search skills than me)?

Here you go @julian-wolf! Back on page 26. The process is exactly the same, although the first batches were made by a guy called Matt who's since moved on to other things, but I was very lucky that the frame-maker who taught Matt agreed to take on my work- the current production is now made entirely by him, but it's the same may of making, from the same materials.

The only design changes since this post^ are that the temples are now cut with curved-down earpieces, rather than straight (straight sides are nice, but I found them a bit uncomfortable to wear for long periods, and they really need to be individually adjusted to the owner's head, which not everyone is able to get done), and the fronts are now carved from a single, thicker sheet of acetate. This means there's no need to glue on nose-pieces, rather the thinner section around the orbit is thinned back- it gives the frame a lovely solidity to it, which I'm really happy with.

I've just received a delivery of various styles and colours, which are up on the Stores!

looking fantastic @chicote! How are your modified 128s coming along?

Thanks for this @vexed_wear! Just about to reply to your email, but I think a size 3 should work nicely for you. I'm expecting a restock of these in the next couple of weeks.