JohnM

^ Foxy2, 

Appreciate the detailed response but not sure I understand the following:

"as for the front pocket it is a certainty that it will be pulled out and give in significantly during it's lifespan - manufacturers will try accommodate for this by securing the seams (stitch types, stitch density, thread types, additional tapes, lining, pocketing material and specific handling of the seam allowance) and/or with additional width in the pattern that gets gathered in the sewing process.
what you see is the (probably intentional) additional fullness brought back together by the pocket entry stitching or the seam allowance handling when turning over the seam."

30 minutes ago, oomslokop said:

in that classic so i'm having a pair of jeans made thread kuniyoshi of double volante explained that those ripples were found on vintage jeans and are strictly speaking a sewing flaw but that japanese repro denim makers start copying them as well to be faithful and now are one of the signs of artisanal beauty one should look for in a pair of jeans  

Interesting oomslokop.  I did see this on page 2 of your link, so I'm going with the theory that the TCB puckering was intentional ;-)

"... another detail he showed me was puckering on the pocket stitching. again, puckering is actually considered bad sewing. however, the japanese noticed puckering on some of the vintage jeans and liked it. so, kuniyoshi-san likes to add a little puckering to the pocket stitching."

Just received a pair of 50s jeans from Inoue (thanks volvo240thebest for your guidance).  They look good despite a little ripple around the left pocket.  I'm hoping/wondering if this will just blend in and fade from view after a soak and wash.  Here are the raw (34) measurements:

Waist:  35.5"

FR:  12.5"

BR:  16.75"

Thigh:  14"

Knee:  10.5"

LO:  9.875"

Lotta love for the TCB 50s!

Please forgive the basic question, but what size would you recommend if I'm a 33 or 34 in Fullcount 1101 and 34 in Warehouse 800?

Thanks.

If you're anything like me, searching for that grail pair of jeans can involve a lot of time and money.  While the journey is as much fun as the destination, I'm happy to have found a few pairs that stand out and make it all worthwhile.  Here they are:

#1  Ooe Yofokuten OA02 -- my overall favorite and best fitting pair

#2  Fullcount 1101 -- most comfortable, softest fabric, the ones I reach for on a lazy Saturday morning

#3  Warehouse 1105 -- great fit; simple, classic lines

#4  Roy (various) -- beautiful detailing and stitching

Love the DB01 Broark -- fortunate to own a pair myself.  The usual perfect Ooe fit combined with a nice, heavy, dark textured denim.  While I like the fit, I'd say these are a touch trimmer up top compared with other Ooes -- or maybe it's just too much Halloween candy on my end (literally) ;-)

Congrats Felonius, as well as to the others who put some serious wear into their Ooes!  Thanks also to Riyo, Hiro, and the folks at S&S for making this happen -- well done all around.

3 hours ago, BionicEye said:

I hope there will be a new run of a ooe contest soon, would love to join

seems there is a high demand for it

Demand is pretty high BionicEye, especially relative to relatively limited supply.  The #17 fabric is very nice with its cross texture but, for me, Ooe is really about the fit and the people that make them.  For whatever reasons, Ooes fit me better than jeans from any other manufacturer.  They seem to get the subtle contours right, with slightly roomy hips and thighs while keeping the waist and legs relatively trim.

23 hours ago, aho said:

Final fit picture! Just waiting for better lighting to take my final submissions pictures though...

Love the contrast aho, especially from hip to knee!  Jeans don't get any better looking IMO.

John

On 8/15/2017 at 10:29 AM, Doogan said:

Received my pair of 1105s today in a 34 and the waist measures just under 16" measured across the top. WTF. This is a damn shame as everywhere else seems good. A 32" waist on size 34 jeans is a piss take imo.

 

Added a comparison of my 34 1101 vs new 34 1105.

Doogan, I have the 1101 in 33 and 34 and the 1105 in 34.  The 1105 does run a little smaller (more like the 1101 in 33) but I'm happy with all three pairs depending on the look and feel I'm in the mood for on a particular day.  The 1105 is a great fit with a slightly lower rise than the 1101.

Nice Max -- are you enjoying the 1101?  I love mine -- probably my favorite Fullcount cut and one of my favorite pairs of jeans overall.

I grabbed a pair of DB01 since I've run out of jeans to wear -- not!  Was great to see Riyo and Hiro in Oakland at Denim Bruin, along with Jeremy, Neil, and Brandon of Standard & Strange.  Thanks for organizing this -- great time for those who could make it.

On 5/27/2017 at 5:42 PM, aho said:

Love the look of this pair.  Everyone's, in fact, look great.  Mine are less far along so I've hesitated to post pics.  That said, the look of this denim after months of wearing and washing is nicer and more interesting than anything I've owned or seen before.  Ooe has the magic, no doubt -- in fit also.

John

22 hours ago, Max Power said:

I also think a wash would open up the fabric, it looks pretty flat. Reminds me of resolute and my old 70s type III. But i also think that it could fade beautifully. 

Those look great on you Max.  But what do you know about fading? ;-)

Still waiting for that 'boring' but classic long sleeve blue chambray ...

I was torn between L and XL and went with XL, which was the right choice.  Will post pics after washing.  The fit is very nice -- I normally wear a 16/34 dress shirt and this one is a similar but a little bigger (especially in the neck) but a wash should bring it in.  As Broark said, it's more beige/cream colored than white, so this is something to keep in mind.  I really like it and hope that Roy will do another blue chambray at some point.

On 6/22/2017 at 4:09 AM, Broark said:

Anyone else grab the stripe shirt?
I'll be sure to post thoughts/pictures once it arrives.

I picked up an XL Broark -- was torn between L and XL.  Looking forward to it.  Roy makes good stuff and it's nice to support a one man operation.

On 5/8/2017 at 4:36 AM, Broark said:

From a constructional standpoint his shirts are similar to his jeans in that every stitch is pretty much perfect and every detail is meticulously finished.
The attention to detail is pretty high, like on his last couple of shirts he's double stitched the button holes for durability. Hard thing to photograph but when you feel the way the buttonholes have been sewn you can tell. It's just the little things like that. Things like the hemstitch used along the front placket, the busted selvedge seam down the back, hand embroidering the size labels, etc. And I think the fabrics that he tends to use look better after a soak/wash.
All that being said, your average Joe has no idea that the shirt was made really well, and I like that. Not super flashy or loud.
And his shirts tend to fit me well, so that's another reason why I like them.
Plus Roy just seems like a cool guy who enjoys making cool shit.

Perfect!  Like his jeans, Roy's shirts exude quality.  You know it when you see it first hand.

That said, a shirt or pair of jeans has to fit well.  His shirts, like some of his jeans (e.g., KS1001/1002), have a linear quality.  They hang and drape well and have a slightly less casual look than other shirts we're familiar with.

Still available, back to the top.

Unlike many of you, I love the length of Roy's shirts, as well as shoulders that actually fit on the shoulders.  But I'm an old, old guy and have even been known to do the unthinkable -- tuck in a shirt.  You can untuck a longish shirt but a short shirt won't stay tucked in (the shirt version of butt crack on jeans).  Back in the day, when I was wearing original STF 501's and hanging with McQueen, Newman, Brando, and Hayashi-san, it was common for well made shirts to fit well in the shoulders.  But then 'designers' like Ralph Lauren realized they could make a shirt more cheaply, with less attention to detail and good fit, by just making the shoulders big and slouchy on everyone.

I realize this post reveals my age, bias, and contrary thinking, but every once in a while I gotta go against the grain and risk a little mockery and down voting.  Roy makes a great shirt that I would buy in a heartbeat if only for one thing -- you guessed it, long sleeves.  Roll em up on a hot day.

^ No Maynard.  I hesitate to ask why you ask -- is that extra padding helpful in cold weather?  If so, I rely more on Talisker or Lagavulin to keep me warm on chilly evenings in the Highlands.  To get back on track, 15.5 oz. FC XX denim is also key!

The 1108 thigh is why I like the 1101!  Of course, they called me 'fat thighs' in grammar school ;-)

Max, you just need a pair of FC1101XX (34) or FC1108XX (36)  ;-)

^ I wear a 33 in the 1101 bacton and a 34 or 35 in most other jeans.  I'd say my 33 ends up at about 34.  A lot of stretch in FC denim.

... still awaiting Roy's done before but classic blue long-sleeve chambray ...