JohnM

^ Andrew, what's the 1004 cut like?

Not sure about Warehouse's sweatshirts, t-shirts, and henleys as mentioned above, but the 800 is an absolutely wonderful pair of jeans -- I wish I had discovered it earlier.  I hadn't worn mine for a few months and just put them on this morning.  Fantastic fit (enough room on top but trim elsewhere), perfect mid-weight (14.5 oz?), no need to hem (I'm 6'0"), and a fair price.  I love Ooe, Roy, and others but if I had to pick one pair that is the 'best' in terms of price, fit, look, and quality, it would be the Warehouse 800, no doubt.

 

aho - given my love for the 800, I'm also interested in the Type 1 jackets that you mention above, though I guess the denim is under 14 oz.

I think they do make shirts!

^  Good catch Sugar Mountain!  I just re-read a book from my youth by Dag Hammarskjold called Markings.  Great book and highly recommended, though not for those who prefer mysteries or action and adventure!

Looks great Tilmann -- trimmer than I might have thought (both you and the jeans)!  The 800 is so simple and classic at a fair price.

 

When you say the 800 is trimmer than the Resolute, are you comparing a size 34 to 36?

 

John

Max, forgive the dumb question but what exactly is 'marbling'?

 

John

Quick comment regarding Roy and his jeans.  Not everyone is going to love the fit (relatively high rise) or the denim (Cone) but there's no denying the sewing quality and construction.  I've owned jeans from Samurai, Warehouse, Iron Heart, Dry Bones, 3Sixteen+, Fullcount, Ooe, and Roy.  The most precisely and evenly sewn are Ooe and Roy.  In addition, Roy includes sewing details that are unique to his jeans due to his use of a variety of sewing machines with interesting stitch patterns.  While the recent button issue is unfortunate, I applaud Roy for coming forward with Kiya and addressing it quickly.

 

Roy jeans aren't perfect but they are different from other jeans.  If I'm going to wear jeans to go to dinner at a nice restaurant, I usually pick Roy's because of the clean line (very linear from waist through hips) and less hairy, harder-surfaced Cone denim.  It looks less casual and more 'formal'.  Not formal as in Cal Naughton Jr's 'tuxedo t-shirt' in Ricky Bobby, but formal in a good way!

 

Nothing is locked in yet, guys.  If you want to change waist size, go for it.

 

I'm going to post a chart here on Wednesday with all the names/waist/inseams for everyone who's paid.

 

 

Now useful information:

 

My waist where my jeans sit is 37.5.  Thigh 5" below crotch is 22"

 

I bought a 36 in the OA02XX and wish I'd gone with a 35.

 

I typically wear a 34 in the following:

Rogue Territory Stanton

Rising Sun Bloke

Tellason Sheffield (I can almost do a 33 here)

PBJ XX005

Ironheart 634s

Indigofera Clint 

 

Wow mrsmiff, my waist is smaller than yours (36') and thigh is the same (22"), yet my soaked OA02 in size 36 feel perfect.  I haven't worn them much or put them through a machine wash.  You've got me thinking.  Does Ooe denim stretch a lot after multiple wears?

 

Based on the current fit, 36 was the way to go, unless there's significant stretch over time.  By comparison, I'm a 34 in the IH 634s (barely), a 35 in Samurai, and 34 in Warehouse 800.

Can we go with any name for the patch or Superfuture name only.  I have a boring one ;-)

Size 36 order in Andrew -- thanks!

OrSlow is great.  Wearing a chambray shirt from S&S right now:

 

http://standardandstrange.com/collections/sale/products/work-shirt-blue-chambray

ironheartfan123, here are my sizes in various jeans:

 

Ooe:  36 (perfect)

Samurai:  35 in 710, 500, and 510 (could get away with 34 in all)

Warehouse:  34 in 800 (fits well, a bit loose after wear)

Fullcount:  34 in 1101 and 0105 (could get away with 33), 36 in 1108 (due to thigh measurements)

That's funny Constantin -- I think we know the feeling.

 

Max, your fade skills are unparalleled.  Do you pack three lives into one?  Wash in a special wasabi concoction?  Watch Harry Potter movies and have wizard skills?  Defy Einstein's rules regarding the space/time continuum?  Per Dr. Evil:

 

Great patch, cool buttons, and denim looks great!  Why are you doing this to my wallet?  As Young knows, I don't need these.  But ... if I'm 34 in the KS1002, what would you say in the RS05?  The KS1002 fits well, though a little tight through my (wide ass) hips!

aho,

 

I'm in -- can't resist ;-)

 

John

Thanks for your efforts aho.  Denim sounds great, especially slightly heavier #43.  I love S&S, but was sort of hoping for a direct connection, given (possibly) higher USA pricing and (in my case) California sales tax!  

Really appreciate your words Max!

 

Clothing-related—the clothing repair service I started a few months ago is really getting off the ground... i've learned so much about how clothes are made, how different fabrics interact with each other, the specific uses of different stitches... last week, as well, I stumbled across a café in Seattle that is full of old Japanese textiles—old kimonos, ikat fabrics, asa work jackets held together by sashiko, block printed tapestries and carved wooden masks—a fateful encounter to say the least. Anyway, it's reinvigorated my interest in traditional sewing and dyeing techniques, so my resolution on that end is to learn and do more of each one.

 

Otherwise, I'd really like to—excuse the melodrama—figure out what I'm doing with my life. I've been working as a journalist for a few years now, and surely it isn't a bad thing to continue pursuing, but I wonder if, in a sort of existentialist manner, i am lying to myself and everyone with what I write...

 

This was something I didn't have much proof of until I read a book on social psychology that talks a lot about the schema, which is basically the narrative that people construct for themselves about a certain event or point in their life. The self-schema (which is what it sounds like) has a profound effect on memory and on the way that people recall events. For example, say I always think of myself as having had a poor relationship with my teachers in my primary school. As I think back on that part of my life, it will be much easier to recall the events that line up with my schema—getting detention, disagreeing with teachers, that sort of thing—than it is to recall the events that don't (of which there were surely many). The effects of the schema increase over time, so years after an event takes place, you might only remember the things that line up with your schema—or your brain might have created entirely new events out of thin air that you unconsciously accept as true.

 

This has been challenging to think about because investigative journalism, as I understand it, depends wholly on 'eyewitness testimony', which is not only subject to the problem mentioned above but to a whole host of other ones... distortion of traumatic experiences, distortion due to social power dynamics or out of a desire to protect other interests... even the time in which you ask someone something, or the phrasing you use, can drastically affect how they respond. This is also the case in law, which is something we hold under such close scrutiny that it must be considered true... in my eyes, there is no more guarantee of that than there is in journalism.

 

So to summarize, I'd like to figure out when I can begin to accept something as true, because right now I am convinced that nothing is. A great problem to have, i know...

 

Relating to Max's point about remembering those who are not as well off as we are... I have been thinking a lot about how our lifestyles impact how others are able to live, specifically considering the divide between the global north and south. When working for social justice, you'd surely have the greatest impact if you are living in a powerful country: you have access to a much broader audience, to much more money for your cause, to the help of other powerful people or organizations that you wouldn't necessarily have were you living somewhere else. But by living in this society, you must also live like the people do—sure, you can buy Japanese clothing and local vegetables and ensure that you are interacting with positive supply chains, but you are still driving a car, or using too much water... still, just by existing here, you ensure that people in other parts of the world will not be able to afford the luxuries you do. So if you're working from the inside to right the wrongs of your own society, can you ever actually make a net positive impact on the world? Or does your very existence as a member of an oppressive group ensure that you won't ever be able to morally break even?

 

Sorry for saddling you all with all of these thoughts! I've been meaning to write about this for weeks and have only just now gotten it off my back. so thank you for putting up with it, and happy new year!!

 

Great thoughts chicote.  I appreciate your candor and willingness to share ideas.  In that spirit, the point about self-schema and the narrative that we construct for ourselves is quite powerful and rings true for me, especially now that I'm older (60) and have had time to let this schema really ossify ;-)

 

I also agree with your points about journalism, the challenge of knowing what is true, and how our socio-economic environment shapes values and perceptions.  The mere fact that you are asking these questions is a sign of hope.

 

The common theme in all of this (to me at least) is to be true to your best self.  We are all powerfully shaped by personal history and broader society.  Part of growing up is to understand these influences, assimilate what's valuable, discard what isn't, and figure out what's most important for each of us.  This is more challenging than one might imagine given pressures to conform and the over-stimulation of daily life.  The people that I respect most are not those who agree with me but who have thought things through for themselves and exhibit a degree of independence, critical thinking, and humility.

 

I am interested in denim and this forum not because I'm a clothes hound or fade guru but because I'm drawn to people who have a respect for craft and authenticity.  I grew up in an era (1970s) where everything was mass-produced and quality was in decline.  Size and scale were valued over attention to detail.  Much of what we see today with denim (not to mention coffee, food, craft beer, etc.) is in response to the declining production values of recent decades.

 

While it's great to see values shift from quantity to quality, it's also true that every era has its "me too" element.  So now everything is "artisanal, craft-oriented, organic, sustainable, and eco-sensitive."  These are just marketing words for many, whose focus is to sell product or appeal to a certain group or sensibility.  For others, the words have more meaning.  Regardless, each of us needs to think through what's most important and be true to that, rather than blindly accepting the priorities of the day or conforming to a broader culture or subculture.  To the extent that we're able to be true to these deeper and more enduring values, we are more likely to connect with others in universal ways and find personal fulfillment along the way.

 

Speaking of fulfillment in 2016 ;-)  I look forward to wearing the jeans I already own, but admit to being tempted by whatever aho may be working on with Ryo and Hiro of Ooe Yofukuten.  In addition, a comfortable, good fitting jeans jacket would be great.  While I like my 20 oz. Iron Heart Type III (SEIH22), it's a coat of armor and sometimes I just need a coat.  Aho (Andrew) likes Fullcount's 2107 but these are tough to find in size 44, let alone 42.

 

Happy New Year to all and thanks for bearing with me on this (overly) long message!

 

John

 

 

Great news aho -- good luck and hope it works out!

 

Really excited about this one, but trying to temper the excitement knowing how busy Ryo and Hiro no doubt are ;-)

William,

 

I was just looking over the last few pages -- first time here on the Tender side of things.  I'm an old guy (60) but I've got to say you're inspiring me with your dedication to craft and respect for history.  We share some interests.  I've got an old Hasselblad 500 CM and a bunch of mechanical pilot watches (Smiths, IWC Mark XVI).  By the way, you're right, 45mm watches are too big -- 35-38mm is my sweet spot.  Loving my Ooe, Fullcount, Warehouse, and Iron Heart denim, but think I'll need to spend some time here too ;-)

 

John

aho has me thinking about the Fullcount 2107 Type I but these are not easy to find in 44, let alone 42.  Any suggestions for a Type I or II jacket that is similar in fit, ease, and everyday comfort?

 

I have an unsanforized Iron Heart Type III in 20 oz. (SEIH22) which I only wear in the Yukon, Antarctica, or when bear fighting.  I don't actually wear it when fighting bears -- just stand it up in the corner and escape through the window while the bear is attacking the jacket.

SOP is Ben's store, so he can run it as he wants.  But I don't like all the 'don'ts' -- "Don't ask about sales, discounts, or brands we don't sell."  Some stores do sales, some don't.  Customers don't know which are which unless they ask.  And no one wants to pay full price and then find out the sale started a week after they made a purchase.

 

And then the point about brands we don't sell.  Ben emphasizes that it's important for sales staff to have product knowledge.  Well, if someone really has product knowledge, they are likely to have a little industry knowledge and familiarity with other, similar products.  That's a good thing.  I love buying from a salesperson who knows not only his own stuff but is familiar with what I walk in wearing.  Makes for a better experience -- more interesting, more human.  If I've got the store owner looking over the employee's shoulder suggesting what's off limits for conversation, not good.

Thanks bradl.  I was just checking Denimio's website and see there are two FC type 1's, the original 2107 and the 2737, which is longer (overall and in sleeves) but narrower in the shoulders.

aho,

 

What's the model number on the FC type 1 jacket?  Is it the one or two pocket model?  13.7 or 15.5 oz.?

 

Thanks.

John

aho,

 

Great stuff and I think I just accidentally voted your post down rather than up.  My mistake, sorry.  So much for trying to press small buttons on a phone ;-)   Great recommendations, by the way.  Will be checking out the FC Type 1 jacket.

 

John

BTW, does anybody know that website? http://hayashidesignoffice.com/news7.13_e.html

Interesting quote:

"Protip: It gets more fluffy the more you wash it.

If you want to wear it the right way, toss that sucker in the washing machine over and over again.

Put in some detergent, too. Just for kicks. Don't even turn it inside out. That way you'll get the pockets, edges, and seams."

 

I must admit, I begin to crave a pair.

 

Great stuff at that link Flo.  Hayashi is a very cool guy, doing it his own way.  As much as I like Red Wings and flannel work wear, it's great to see a guy wearing Weston oxfords and a button down shirt with his Resolute 710's.