JohnM

I have an older 35mm 2.0 Summicron (as well as an M6 and R6) gnomes.  Beautiful lens, as you say -- so small, with a smooth/painterly rendering.  You're right, the 1.4 is much bigger and heavier.  With film, at least, it's nice to have the 1.4's speed at times, but the latest versions are large.  I do like the old 50/1.4 Summilux.  It had that same, sweet image quality as the older 'Cron but with the added benefit of shallow depth of field.

 

The older Leica lenses remind me of some of what we're after in Japanese denim -- imperfection as perfection!

 

John

FWIW, the top block of the FC 0105 is about as comfortable as any pair of jeans I've owned.  I'm a size 34 or 35 in most jeans but my 105's are 33 (thanks to lots of advice here).  The main reason this works is that the 13.7 oz. denim is stretchy and conforming.  But it's also true that the cut of the top block is excellent.  The higher back rise adds to comfort (hoggreaser) without messing up the look of the jeans since the front rise isn't that high and the top block is conforming and trim in the smaller size.

 

From the knee down the 0105 is a little wide but not so much so that it bugs me.  As comfortable as the 0105 is on me, I probably prefer the overall, trimmer line of the 1101.

Tilmann,

 

Here are measurements from my size 33 FC 0105 13.7 oz.  The first measurements are after soaking once, wearing, and stretching.  The second are later, after three washes, one full dry in the dryer, but no stretching.  While the dryer contributes to the smaller measurements, of course, I think these will stretch back out significantly after one or two wears.

 

John

 

Size 33, post soak, worn, stretched:

 

Waist:  36"

FR:      12.25"

BR:      17.25"

Thigh:  13.5"

Knee:    9.75"

LO:        9.0"

 

Size 33, 3 washes, 1 dryer, not stretched

 

Waist:  34.0"

FR:      11.75"

BR:      16.625"

Thigh:   13.0"

Knee:    9.5"

LO:       8.875"

Inseam:  34.0" (after hemming)

Would have expected a cornier comment towards average size.

 

I hear you Flo, but shucks, we try to limit the corn here on Sufu.

Of course I'm serious -- 60 year olds don't fool around.  Funny thing is, while Steve needed more room up front, Brando complained that his Samurais were tight in the thighs (710XX).  He said this while filming At The Warehouse.

Flo, I think the average men's height is somewhere around 5'9".  So you're not average in terms of height, intellect, or taste in jeans!  If you could only learn how to put a good fade on your jeans ;-)

this fits like a reoslute 710

 

When Steve was in SF filming Bullitt, he told me he liked them but wished the rise was a little higher.

Thank you! I Is FC denim a bit darker than Warehouse (800) or Iron Heart (UHR)?

 

After taking a closer look Dmitry, I'd say the FC XX denim is the darkest.  Warehouse 800 and FC 13.7 oz. are fairly close -- Warehouse may be a touch darker.  Iron Heart UHR is a different animal -- much heavier material and very blue.

JohnM, I just choose FC 1109 in 13.7oz denim vs 15.5oz.

15.5oz denim has a darker color?  These jeans will a different fading?

 

Dmitry, the 15.5 oz. XX is darker than the 13.7 oz. FC denim.  I can't really comment on the fading properties given that both pairs are fairly new.  While the XX denim is a bit darker, it's worth remembering that even the 13.7 oz. is fairly dark and neither the 15.5 or 13.7 oz. is especially blue, say compared to Warehouse (800) or Iron Heart (UHR).  The strength of the 13.7 oz. FC denim is its softness and pliability.  That said, I really like the heavier 15.5 oz. XX denim too and it is also quite soft.  In general, FC denim is stretchy, much more so than Cone Mills, for example.  So despite the shrinkage you'll get on raw jeans, the denim will stretch back to and probably beyond original measurements.

Flo,

 

Those cutoffs are small!  Do you cuff your jeans or are you just tall?  ;-)

 

John

Can't say there's a single favorite, but here are a few:

 

Roy KS1001/2:  flawless construction

Samurai OG (710 or 500):  denim color, weight, texture

Fullcount 1101:  softness and comfort

Warehouse 800:  classic pair of blue jeans, no frills, just good fit and good denim

Ed, if the indigo and denim on your signet FC jeans are as good as you say, they must really be something.  Though I have more jeans than I need, I have to say that the standard 13.7 oz. FC denim on my 1101 is incredibly soft and comfortable and the XX denim is an excellent variation -- still soft but more substantial.  Based on comfort alone, FC is tough to beat.

Great trip down memory lane b_F.  Your appreciation for the history of our hobby, including the makers, the denim and details, and the various contests (which I've not yet participated in), really fuels the fire of interest for me, also making for great reading and additional credit card expenses!  Despite owning too many pairs already, I have yet to experience Denime, Resolute, Evisu, or Ooe Yofukuten.  So much to do, so little time.  Maybe best to live vicariously through you ;-)

 

John

The beatle buster will actually end up being far tighter in the thighs than the 633s in the same size.

 

I agree and should have mentioned this above (e.g., I'm a 34 in the 634s but a 36 in the Beatle Buster).  What the BB does give you though is a higher rise, which can make a difference for some body types.  If an average rise works for you, then, yes, the 634s is the way to go.

Agree -- Beatle Buster is a great cut with its longer rise and room in the top block. I have the 18 oz. and love em. Best fitting pair of Iron Hearts for my body -- average waist but big legs, thighs, rear.

Thanks for the responses.

 

Graytrain:  Would you say your 34 1101XX stretched back beyond the original once-washed measurements or just back to where they were when you received them?

Anyone have any experience on whether a once-washed 1101XX will shrink at all?  I've only purchased raw in the past but am considering a once-washed pair from Yuichi.

Thanks, John

Don't sweat it edmond. You speak your mind -- sometimes it bites a little, mostly it entertains. Your contributions to this forum are appreciated and enjoyed by others. Plus, you may do another FC collaboration 😉

FWIW, I have the 710XX, 710OG, and 500OG (but not the 500XX) in size 35, and all fit well, especially in the all-important top block.

 

John

^ The reason I asked the question above is that I've been wearing the 0105 lately (size 33) and have to say it's my best fitting pair of jeans, at least in the top block.  The 13.7 oz. denim is also incredibly soft and comfortable.  The reason I asked about the 1101 vs. 0105 top block is that I prefer the tapering from the knee down of the 1101 and was wondering if a size 33 1101 will fit the same as the 0105 up top.

 

Thanks.

John

Quick question -- is the top block of the 1101 identical to that of the 0105?  Just less tapering from the knee down on the 0105?

 

Thanks.

John

No doubt Kiya.  I wore the SE Dry Bones collaboration yesterday -- high rise and slim fit.  Nice denim and the nicest pocket bags I've ever seen on a pair of jeans.

I think most denim SE carries are Japanese and the Japanese doesn't do with high rises. Yes we Asians aren't that tall.

 

Samurai, Fullcount, and Warehouse are Japanese companies that all do high rises (710/510, 1108/1101/0105, 800/1001/1101).  I love Self Edge but need a high rise in jeans, which is one reason why these work for me, as well as Roy.  Sugar Cane is another option.

What's the denim weight of the 1101 LTD?  "Banner denim" -- does that mean 13.5 oz.?  Sorry.

I just received a pair of 18 oz. Beatle Busters (IHxB01xRAW) from IH UK and would recommend them for someone looking for a slightly longer rise and more tapered look than the 634s.  I haven't soaked them yet but will try to post pictures down the line.  If you are considering this cut, I would suggest sizing up a bit from the 634s, where I wear a size 34.  I went with 36 on the B01 and it looks about right.

 

Credit to Matt Winch of IH UK for his patience and assistance in measuring stock on hand and answering questions.

 

John