PeterParker

Burgus Plus Lot 780

2010.12.1 - 2012.12.1

3 hand washes, 4 machine washes

Enjoy.

Check the tumblr link in the signature for a couple more pictures.

Easily my favourite pair of denim I've worn so far. Loved the fit, denim, and construction.

Burgus Plus Lot 780

2010.12.1 - 2012.12.1

3 hand washes, 4 machine washes

Enjoy.

Check the tumblr link in the signature for a couple more pictures.

Easily my favourite pair of denim I've worn so far. Loved the fit, denim, and construction.

Not sure what the judging protocol is, but 2 years is up for me

Contestant #7 - Burgus Plus Lot 780

2010.12.1 - 2012.12.1

3 hand washes, 4 machine washes

Enjoy.

Check the tumblr link in the signature for a couple more pictures.

Easily my favourite pair of denim I've worn so far. Loved the fit, denim, and construction.

Thanks guys, it's been an awesome 2 years!

They are one-wash, does anyone know how much more they're likely to shrink in length on subsequent washes? I could do with hemming these by about an inch as I don't want to cuff but don't want to do it too early if they're going to shrink more.

+1. Likewise with my 700J. I figure that I'll go for all or nothing. These will look worse being an inch too long than an inch too short with the larger leg opening. I'd imagine the Warrens are also a looser fit, so something to consider. Not sure if the two share the same denim, however, so shrinkage may vary.

Anyone else getting tired of their jeans fraying at the legs from cuffing? I've rocked the cuffs for my last two pairs of jeans but the aesthetics of the frayed warp yarns really bugs me when they are uncuffed. I guess one must clean dust and debris out of the cuffs on a frequent basis to avoid fraying. Also, the roping just isn't as well defined with turned up cuffs.

I'm definitely intent on my next pair having a proper inseam length so cuffing won't be necessary. Tired of inseams being 1 or 2 inches too long.

Tell me that's a joke?

If you are speaking of the reference of BSP to "Bomb Shit Pussy", then no one is kidding.

A quick search through the annals of superfuture finds the origins of "bomb shit pussy dating back to 04 June 2007 - 01:35 PM by kiya himself.

Post 1000.

Bomb Shit Pussy.

Multiple sources have reported since then that BSP = bomb shit pussy, although I can't find any direct quotes from kiya himself. While Cold Summer's hypothesis is perfectly logical, it doesn't roll of the tongue like "bomb shit pussy".

I may be mistaken, but I thought that the 3sixteen+ denim was produced and made in Japan. I see that the 30BSP is now made in San Fran. Curious as to why the change was made - perhaps production cost which may be reflected by the lower price compared to the previous MIJ jeans.

The 1xxx denim supposedly stretches a fair amount, e.g. back to raw dimensions. These results were consistently reported for the SExFH05 jeans, which were made from the 1xxx denim. I do have a pair of 1001, but I have yet to soak or wear them so I can't comment from my experience.

As far as fading, the 3xxx and 1xxx seem to fade similarly. Differences I have seen between the two are more likely attributed to fit and amount of wear than the actual denim.

For applying a generous and even coat of Obeanauf's LP, I recommend heating up the LP so that it is liquid (putting it out in the sun or 15 seconds in the microwave should do) and then applying with a paint brush (basically painting your shoes with LP). After it dries, you can work in the excess coating by hand.

It helps to get the Obenauf's into the nooks and crannies like the welts, around stitching, etc. that wouldn't get much coverage if you just applied it by hand.

No need for any fancy brush in this application, as it just gets gummed up with the wax when it dries. Just keep the brush for future applications of LP.

A horsehair brush helps to keep the shoes clean by getting rid of dust, but don't expect to get a brilliant shine by brushing. Some leathers (e.g. Chromexcel) take a pretty good shine from brushing alone, while others (e.g. White's standard leathers) stay pretty dull.

guess kybosh is going for all you can eat & drink with Kiya ..amazing

I'm not sure what exactly are the qualifications required for the "You're a drunk" award, but kybosh definitely wins the "I've destroyed my jeans beyond all recognition" award - sounds like he'll get a pair of jeans from Kiya's secret collection.

Here is the thread.

I'll present the opposing side of aho's stance on the inseam debate.

Inseam length is something I struggle with because you really only have one chance to get it right. I'm talking about a proper inseam with just a slight break - no stacking, no cuffing. I'd say there is a +/- 0.75 inch allowance to getting the length right. Any more and it will look sloppy, any less you and you will look silly.

There are so many things to take into consideration: fabric weight, leg opening, rise (or sag), shrinkage, stretch, footwear to be worn with, etc., It's like having a pair of pants tailored, only you have to factor in these issues - and if you are chainstitching by proxy (e.g. SelfEdge, Iron Heart, BiG, etc.), you don't have the benefit of an experienced tailor to nail the measurement down for you.

My Burgus, which were hemmed to 31" inseam, were too short when I was wearing sneakers, lower heeled boots, etc. and so I cuffed them to keep them from dragging. Problem is my cuffed jeans always fray in the fold of the cuff. When I got my White's (higher heeled boots), I uncuffed the jeans and they're a good length, only now they are tattered where I had cuffed them.

Another example is my SExSC06. I had those hemmed to 33" pre-soak to factor shrinkage, aiming for ~30.5" inseam. After hot-soaking they were good, but after a couple of wears they stretched back out. The leg-opening is smaller and denim more supple, so they don't look great when cuffed, nor do they stack nicely.

While you can hem post-soak or after a couple of wears, I prefer to hem pre-soak for more pronounced roping. Regardless, hemming should be done as early as possible - one-wash or raw.

In the end, I agree with aho's sentiment that you can make jeans look fashionable by cuffing whether they are too long or too short; however, getting the perfect length is quite a precise science!

I really dig those, Mixture. Very natural and classic looking fades. The super high contrast whiskers and combs aren't my cup of tea.

Any recommendations on how to improve the lustre of a dull leather? Any specific oil or wax that can be applied to bring out the colour and a bit of shine? Obenauf's and the horsehair brush just don't do it...

Somewhat having remorse in my choice of leather on my White's when looking at some of these. I suppose most leather options are available when ordering directly through White's, because Baker's has more limited options for Bounty Hunters than for the Semi-Dress.

Regarding White's lasts, I believe the "classic" 461 last is similar to the semidress last, but with more of an upturned toe. The Ultrasound Boots facebook page has photos of many permutations of White's boots, mostly on the semidress last (e.g. standard Semid-Dress, conventional Bounty Hunters) and classic last (they seem to identify it as the C641T last, though they appear to be the same to me).

Here are some examples of 641 last:

And the semidress last:

As you can see, the classic 461/C641T last is not that clumsy. It is the swing last that has a wide and blobby toe with the appearance of a clown shoe. I'm pretty sure that White's can make both the Smoke Jumper and Semi-Dress on any of their last. Unless you have an oddly shaped foot, it's a safe bet to go with the semidress last.

How are the sleeves for cuffing/rolling? The gusset (is that what it's called?) looks a little short compared to most shirts, so I can see rolling up past the elbows being an issue.

coleslawyum, how is the construction on those 744LTDs? Really dig that colour of cordovan and I'm a sucker for brogued captoes. Pity that I don't wear my Alden #8 jumpers more often for worry of beating them the F up - that's what my White's are for.

Thanks for the appreciation.

I never contemplated dropping out of the contest or stopping wear on these, but for a while I was working a job that required black pants so the Burgus were getting infrequent and less intense wear. Aside from that, I have been "monogamous" with these jeans. Back to daily wear now, but I'm not sure if I want to retire these after the contest!

x-post from Burgus, Evo, threads

Burgus Plus Lot 780

Apologies for the dingy photos on the last update. Took a few (more representative) snaps of the freshly washed jeans outside today.

1 year, ~10 months. 3 hand washes, 2 machine washes

Burgus Plus Lot 780

1 year, ~10 months. 3 hand washes, 2 machine washes

Burgus Plus Lot 780

Apologies for the dingy photos on the last update. Took a few (more representative) snaps of the freshly washed jeans outside today.

1 year, ~10 months. 3 hand washes, 2 machine washes

That's some seriously interesting denim. I thought "weird" at first, but the more I look at them, the more I'm fiending for a pair.

Burgus Plus Lot 780

1 year, 9 months. 3 hand washes, 1 machine wash

Burgus Plus Lot 780

1 year, 9 months. 3 hand washes, 1 machine wash

Feels great to be wearing these daily again. Chucked them in the washing machine last week and got a line fade. Fortunately, it's not that obvious, but I am wary about throwing them in there again...

Regardless, these will probably get the monthly wash treatment until the end of the contest.

#7 Burgus Plus Lot 780

1 year, 9 months. 3 hand washes, 1 machine wash