PeterParker

these are some old contest samurai's.

Best worn Samurai's I've ever seen.

33" 1947s for super cheap: http://global.rakute...034-0001341331/

used but unfaded

Still sounds a little expensive for cell bitch denim underwear.

Natural CXL. My hopes that the distressed leather could look as good as the CXL have not been fulfilled. Every time I see those boots I am remorseful about my decision...

Has anyone gotten extra shrinkage from soaking their one wash's?

My one-wash 811's were thrown into the washing machine followed by a pretty intense machine drying by my grandma.

End result: a gnarly patch, insane roping, and overall they had essentially shrunk down an entire size. Size 32 measurements:

Waist Thigh (Crotch) Thigh (1") Knee Hem Front Rise Back Rise Inseam

Pre: 32 12 11.5 8.75 8.25 10.5 14 33

Post: 31.5 11.5 11 8.5 7.75 11 13.5 32

instead of just dusting/cleaning, give the hems periodic soaks w/a bit of agitation when dirt/grime starts to accumulate. this practice will help reset & temper the fabric

... also, change up the position of the folds every now & then. so friction wont always be at same area.

I will have to employ these tactics on my 811's when I finally get around to wearing them. As much as I'd prefer to have them hemmed to the proper inseam length, I can't sacrifice the roping - easily the most pronounced I've seen on any pair.

Great job documenting the details on these lesser known jeans, although it looks like you could have taken off at least another 2 inches on the inseam.

I love everything about the Lot 002, except the rise is a little too high for my liking.

There's a thread for "dilemmas" like this:

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php?/topic/19938-this-or-that-use-me-for-all-your-should-i-buy-questions/page__st__654

I believe he is asking about the shirts that were released with the respective jeans.

Kiya, could you give me a quick rundown of the differences in fabric between the sexfhxrjb tee and the sexih one?

Century Denim - No. 7S TH

Stevenson Overall Co. - 747

Warehouse - 15th 1001X

Kapital - TH Zipang

RJB - SExFHxRJB15

Roy - Duck-1

Devis - D00XX 1946

Hey guys just washed my Momo's and noticed wear on the inner thigh of my jeans...at the seam where the denim is rolled the top of the roll has started to wear through. I know the earlier the better when it comes to denim repairs so I figured I'd ask you guys for some opinions on if they need some attention now or if I am being paranoid. From the picture just let me know what you think. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

I had the same kind of wear on my Burgus and reinforced it pretty early on. It's been almost a year since the repair and it's still holding up. If I hadn't, the denim probably would have worn away, exposing the stitching holding the inseam together and resulting in a crotch blowout.

I wish I had found this thread sooner! Yesterday I scraped my Burgus on a corner doing some damage. That UES video pretty much demonstrated the exact repair that I needed!

Knowing that I needed the jeans for work tomorrow and that they needed a wash between them, I hastily made a repair (before discovering this thread) [pun unintended]. I used some Nudies denim I had lying around as a reinforcing patch, but I lacked the savvy to fold over the edges to prevent them from fraying.

I should probably try and add some reinforcing stitching where the warp yarns were torn, but I'm new when it comes to making denim repairs. When this patch starts crapping out, I'll replacing it with a better one.

On the topic of White's, my Bounty Hunters have been seeing a lot of action lately. The arid and dusty conditions of working in a vineyard have taken their toll on the boots, so they needed some maintenance today.

Before:

After:

For these conditions, ideally I'd have the false tongue and nylon laces installed, but I forgot to bring them along with my travels. Definitely glad I brought these boots with me though. The tongue gaiter helps to keep the small rocks and prickly brush from getting into the boots. To think I almost brought my cigar Indy's instead!

I've decided that I need a denim cap in my life. Did MF do one as part of their Naval Tailor line?

If not, any recommendations for a quality denim cap?

dkatz, I'm brimming with envy on those ducks. That's a well deserved reward for your dedication to the RxC contest.

I'm definitely regretting not buying a pair upon release, probably the most enticing product I've seen from Roy since RxC. That pocket opening reinforcement is the tits. For me it's refreshing to see a looser cut from Roy; lately it's been a lot of slim fits, which I feel are not always congruent with the aesthetic of the fabrics he employs.

However, your reward pair appears to be a slimmer fit than the SE measurements suggest. Maybe it's because of your freakishly slim physique (aka the sidneylo effect).

Thanks for setting the record straight, aho! I admire your conviction when buying jeans - unlike most of us who don't bother hemming to length, you seem to always get a proper hem.

All this talk about hemming got me thinking: what hemming options would have been available circa 1946? Did Levi's make various inseam lengths for each size, as seen today? I doubt that many Union Specials were floating around in tailor shops (if they even accepted jeans for alterations!). That leaves cuffing or lopping them off with a pair of scissors...?

That being said, I'll have mine hemmed on the Union, please

The fly looks perfectly normal, spacing looks no different than any of my pairs of jeans. Don't overthink this...

On the other hand, definitely get those hemmed. I think I've discussed this ad-nauseum on these boards, but if you're spending $200+ on a pair of raw denim, they deserve a proper hem before wearing - whether chainstitched from SE, BiG, etc. or just single-needle stitched (?) by your local tailor.

I feel like the Union Special at SE, BiG, etc. is under-utilized on jeans purchased online, for fear of wrong sizing and then ending up with an unreturnable pair of jeans. I don't know if SE accepts mail-in orders on jeans purchased online, but even if they do, I bet few customers bother sending jeans back in for hemming. Most people buying jeans through SE and BiG probably don't even know their finished inseam length.

I admit that I didn't know mine until recently, but now that I do, I'm having every pair of jeans hemmed before shipping when possible.

Update: Hemming, right now we are are not providing it.

Sadly, this is a dealbreaker for me. If Taichi-san has a Union Special, why can't he hem our jeans to order?

It's less of an issue to find a shop that can hem my jeans on a Union when I won't start wearing them for some time, but for a contest that isn't really any option.

As a denimhead, I am pretty ignorant about the history of Levi's (and Lee's). When I was getting into denim on SuFu (and probably still now), all of the hype was towards the Japanese brands - repro or not. I wouldn't really consider any of the denim I own as true repros, and I had never really considered getting a pair of LVC 1947 501's. I have fancied a pair of Sugar Cane 1947's, especially the older pairs with arc's and tabs.

^Thanks aho for the summary of the vintage details on these jeans. I think I shall have a read of the LVC thread while this contest shapes up to get educated about some Levi's history.

I'm curious to hear more about the denim for these jeans. I'm assuming the denim will be vintage correct as well, i.e. lighter, lower contrast, less hairy than say, Flat Head, Eternal denim.

Are there any details about the new fabric for this lot of jeans? Is the "new edition" shown on the Denim Project site the denim to be used for the jeans?

Surely what makes the SD offer more functionality over aldens as a work boots is the more robust materials and improved comfort?

I certainly would rather have SDs than indys on my feet for any manual work or when I am on my feet all day. I have owned SDs, BHs and indys. The indys are flimsy compared to SDs.

By all means, given the choice between the two, I'd rather wear SD's than Indy's all day. But as the name suggests, the Semidress are not exactly a workboot. Some day I'd like a pair of dress leather SD's with double leather soles for times when the BH are too much boot for the occasion (which would probably relegate my Aldens to be worn even less frequently than they already are).

My point was to highlight the advantages of the BH over the SD for medium duty work.

I'm also considering a full switch to White's, so I have a pair of Bounty Hunters on the way to see how the White's arch works for me.

Can anybody who owns an Alden boot and the White's semi dress speak to the relative shaft height? Is it about the same?

I posted this picture a while back of my BH and Alden's. I think it's safe to say that the Semidress are pretty much the same height as your standard Alden boots - 5 inches. The BH are about an inch taller.

On the topic of BH and SD, I find the 6" BH quite effective as a general purpose work boot. Not sure if the SD come with false tongues, but the BH do and these help to prevent premature wear on the actual tongue due to friction from the laces. The gaited tongue (not sure if this is the term, but the tongue on the BH is stitched all the way up the uppers) prevents debris from getting into the boots, while providing more cushioning when folded over. While only 1" higher, the extra shaft height does provide more protection and support around the ankles.

Lately I've been employing the BH for field work and I'm glad I opted for these over the SD. Other than comfort and more robust materials and construction, I don't imagine that the SD offer much more functionality than Aldens as workboots.

Sadly no evo on those. The FC's are still unworn and I probably won't be getting around to wearing them any time soon. They still need a proper hem on a Union Special before I soak and wear.

I'm pretty much monogamous with my denim and the Warehouse are my current go-to. Been flirting a bit with my SExSC06, but despite the lighter weight, slack woven denim, they are not as comfortable in the heat as the Warehouse because of their slim fit.

I think to really explore the beauty of these denim, one must commit at least a year of regular wear. I guess that's the crux of this hobby of ours - we are rewarded for our patience and persistence. I reckon most of us have enough denim to keep us occupied for the next 5-10 years.

I'll play along. I own all of these, but only a couple have been worn.

In no particular order...

The Flat Head 1001 - First pair of MIJ denim. Great slim fit with button fly (vs. zip on 3001/F310). Top notch construction. Out of production(?). Missed the boat on the SExFH05 pair, so these were the next best thing (same denim). Interesting fact, this pair was acquired in a trade with beatle to swap sizes. Oddly, mine are still in the raw, unworn state.

Fullcount 1108-15 - I think Fullcount is the tits for their understated luxury denim. Subtle details in the construction (e.g. continuous stitching around the leather patch, curved back pockets), my favourite arcs, red tab set it off. Of course there's the Zimbabwe cotton which is much more pliable and has the softest hand weft of any denim I have felt. This particular model was limited production for their 15th anniversary with slightly green cast denim, yellow patch, painted yellow donut buttons. Cherry on top is that I picked these up for a steal on eBay.

Warehouse 700(J) - I didn't understand Warehouse when I first got into denim - full cuts with no fancy adornments (arcs, tabs, flashy coloured selvage, collaborations, etc.). Now I realize this is the very reason why I like them. No frills - just superb construction, legendary denim, and meticulous attention to detail. After wearing slim fits for the past few years, it's great to put these on when it's 30C outside.

Eternal 811 - Seems to be a popular entry on many lists, and for good reason. Only pair that I own that was actually purchased in Japan. Fortunately, the pair I tracked down came with a red tab. Other than that, no frills. Just epic denim, a classic fit, a great leather patch, and top notch construction (not sure what was the deal with the BiG contest pairs, which seemed to have subpar construction). Actually I am in possession of two pairs of these, although the second has been worn and lacks the red tab.

Burgus Plus Lot 780 - Unlike the rest of the jeans on this list, these were a mystery to me when I got them - no real examples of wear on these, other than the pre-distressed pair that Hinoya sold. Nothing too extravagant here, but I'm a sucker for arcs and red tabs. Purple selvage. ~18oz denim, which is surprisingly wearable in the heat and very durable. Higher waist than I was used to, but now I can't wear anything with a low rise. 2 years on these, and now they are my shit-kicking jeans. Love every day I get to wear these jeans. In case you haven't seen the evo, check the link in the sig.

I see, you hemmed after your initial hot wash. So 1.5" shrinkage on the original inseam, and then you had them hemmed another 1.5" shorter.

I always try to hem while the jeans are raw (so as to get the most pronounced roping at the hem), but it is a real guessing game as to how much room to allow for shrinkage. I had always been afraid of hemming too short and as a result, I have probably left a couple of pairs I have hemmed an inch too long. Suffice to say, I think a 32" raw inseam should give a 30 to 31" final inseam in most cases...

Had my N-02 Hemmed recently - Fit is now spot on.

I had 1.5" taken off the length. They've had 2 soaks and have now got noticeable leg twist.

Fit pics soon.

What was the inseam shrinkage on the N-02 like?

From the description of their weave, I thought it would shrink more than usual. Haven't soaked them yet, but would like to know if I need to hem shorter for future reference.

Dammit, wish I hadn't slept on that Century denim (or that I had money in the bank account when they were released). Personally, I think these are way more covetable than any collaboration or limited edition denim I have seen yet, although I imagine these were really limited in production

Consider yourself lucky to own a pair! Please wear them hard so we can see how they look when faded.

Maynard, that is correct. These were one wash when I bought them.

To be specific, I was fairly aggressive with the wash - around 60C for 40 minutes and then left out in the sun to dry. The denim was quite soft and pliable when new, but after the wash they became quite rigid and starchy.

My suspicion is that they will stretch with wear and gain back at least 0.5" in the inseam.

FWIW, I had my 700J's hemmed and put them through a hot hand wash (to agitate) to get most of the shrinkage out.

Here are the measurements:

Pre-wash

Waist 31

Thigh (BiG) 11.5

Thigh (SE) 11.25

Knee 9

Leg Opening 8.75

Front Rise 11.5

Back Rise 14

Inseam 30

Post-wash

Waist 30

Thigh (BiG) 11.5

Thigh (SE) 11

Knee 9

Leg Opening 8.5

Front Rise 11.5

Back Rise 14

Inseam 29

Fit: