PeterParker

Making me wet waiting for my White's to arrive.

first lesson of sufu: life's too short to spend wearing shitty jeans

/thread

i never understand why unsatisfied customers resort to the internet public instead of contacting the primary source as their first recourse to resolve a situation, as if the internet should be appalled by such a mistake and forsake a business for its mistake.

if you are looking for help to resolve your situation, send andrew (ajchen) or johan (jl77) a private message or e-mail to [email protected] about your problem and i am sure they will sort you out. they have been prompt and generous with their customer service in my experiences.

fire element

Gilangaditya, what washing regiment do you use for your jeans (i.e. hand or machine, how often, etc.)? The crinkly fades you achieve on all your pairs is outstanding. That's some serious grail status you have going on there.

although those boots were a design that i conceived, i agree with your sentiments. it was very much an impulsive decision of combining "what type of leather do i want" and "what style of boot don't i already have". it was a contrived and impractical boot.

the white's i have on order are the boots i should have bought in the first place.

fre$co, what ever became of your white's bounty hunters?

collecting denim is such an affliction. so many purchases begin with seeing a photograph of a worn in pair with grail status fades, but obtaining those fades on your personal pair requires quite a time investment.

with any luck, i might get started on my pair of warehouse 700j's in the next year. shame that i have already passed up on the 15th 1001xx, but warehouse has proven that any incarnation of their denim will produce amazing fades.

white's in natural chromexcel is an interesting development. still glad i went with the distressed smooth though. i wonder if natural cxl will become available for the bounty hunter.

my experience and observations with natural cxl is that it can be rather crinkly. this is especially notable on aldens. the leather on this pair was not particularly thick, and for a rugged work boot like white's i would prefer something thicker.

on a related note, these were just posted by Ultrasound boots:

listed as "Brown oil" leather. looks a shade darker than brown cxl, but very similar in texture. curious to see more makeups in this leather in the future.

It is amazing how much difference a last can make. Very similar make-up, eyelets vs. speedhooks, pull tab, does J. Crew have a close heel?

I think the Trubalance last resembles a military last, unlike the Barrie which is dressier. The "repro" look of the jumpers appeals to me, something about the nostalgia of a military officer shining up his boots before a date with a broad (reference to The Pacific), which is something that the J. Crew captoes lack.

Something about the yoke and the back pocket placement looks odd. Perhaps it is the long shape of the pockets, but they appear to be really low. It would bug me sitting on my wallet with it under my thigh instead of my ass.

I, for one, have been spoiled by so many of the Japanese denim brands and their keen attention to detail. It's only when I see jeans that aren't made to the same reproduction precision that I appreciate all the work that goes into making a pair of jeans.

That being said, it is refreshing to see new brands mixing things up and putting on their own signature details. Thanks for telling us more about the brand, and hopefully we'll see some evolution photos soon.

after my weight up, it looks like jeans should be rested while I exercise to lose weight. maybe when it can be used again, would I wash for the third time. TFH 1001 1 year 2 month, effective wear 11 month. 2 machine wash, 1 seawash.

if you're not going to be wearing them for a while, washing them before storing them would be wise. leaving the sweat and grime on your jeans is going to break down the denim faster.

otherwise, awesome jeans.

damn, didn't mean to instigate a hand washing vs. machine washing war.

i've had and seen enough disastrous results of jeans put in washing machines that i'd rather not chance it with my denim. aside from preventing undesirable creasing and fades, i find there are many advantages to hand washing; however, most times when hand washing, i do wish it would go as quickly and easily as using a machine. when my denim reaches the later stages of its lifespan, i will employ the washer.

more power to you if you have the confidence to wash your jeans in your machine. wabi sabi.

i was digging through yahoo auctions for fun (oh denim life) and saw this crinkly pair of 15th anniversary 1001xx's...interesting to see the wide spectrum of fades this fabric can bring....this pair and the pair i posted above make me want to machine wash all my pairs moving forward, i love that crinkliness!

i don't think machine washing is necessary to achieve crinkliness, so long as the denim has the qualities to achieve crinkled fades (which warehouse definitely does); i get crinkles just fine on (some) of my denim by hand washing them (see burgus in sig)

1/4" lowered heel? medallion cap toe and contrasting backstay are classy touches.

the inseam at the crotch is a high wear area on all jeans. the denim on one leg rubbing against the other occurs naturally as you walk and move around in the jeans; the stresses are even more concentrated at the inseam stitching so wear is accentuated there.

i don't think there is a cut that is more resistant than another to this type of wear, although smoothly woven denim will likely be less abrasive and wear slower than coarsely woven denim.

my burgus plus lot 780 started to wear at the same point around 8 months of wear. i eventually reinforced the crotch with some stitching to minimize the wear on the denim:

good insight about the relationship between roy and his machines. half way through the article it had me thinking, "it would be so fucking cool to make jeans for a living." that was a clever response regarding apprenticeships though.

but what was up with some of the questions? on using japanese denim? and was the last question meant to be tongue-in-cheek? a quick look at roy's body of work gives obvious answers to those questions.

one-wash. i don't know if omnigod is available raw.

my preference for the chainstitch detail is strictly as a purist; a skilled worker on the union special can start and finish the chainstitch almost seamlessly. in this case, it shouldn't matter where the stitch starts, but starting on the outseam where it is visible displays the craftsmanship.

i think andrew of selfedge nyc did an interview where he showed how to chainstitch and explained the details.

worth noting: the eternals, flat heads, warehouse, and fullcounts all have chaintstitched hems starting at the outseam. my burgus and big pairs were started on the inseam. it makes sense that the largest and most famous denim houses have the most skilled workers, not that there are any deficiencies in the workmanship of the other jeans mentioned.

also worth noting: take5 hk hemmed two pairs of my jeans starting at the outseam. big hemmed mine starting at the inseam, although i made no specific requests in either case. however, in all cases the starting location was consistent with the location of the factory hem.

/nerding out about chainstitching

Nice and tidy felled(?) inseam. Haven't seen this detail on any of my other Japanese denim, usually an overlocked inseam. About the only shortcoming I found was that the chainstitch hem was started/finished on the inseam, rather than the outseam.

Denim closeup. There's a subtle streaky, slubbiness to the denim where the weft yarns show through (maybe characteristic of the loom it was woven on?)

Denim rainbow to show the colour of the denim relative to other denim. (L to R, Eternal 811, Flat Head 1001 raw, Warehouse 700J, Omnigod, Fullcount 1108-15 raw, Blue in Green N-02 raw)

Fit

Big thanks to Rob and Nora at Okiya for their help and patience with my annoying questions and requests, and for making this lesser known brand available to the world!

Curiosity got the best of me and I bought a pair of the Omnigod 50-056a.

The denim on these is fantastic. There's a dark greenish tint to them that really appeals to me, and a lot of character in the denim. The finishing and appointments on them is also top notch.

The 056 is a slim straight cut

5 button fly, hidden back pocket rivets

Orange tab, Shiny leather patch, looks plastic-y (but we've seen how these can age a la Denime).

Iron fly buttons, sure to rust and age beautifully over time.

Herringbone pocket bags, custom rivets.

Raised belt loops. I had read that some pairs have flat belt loops so this was a pleasant surprise.

Trademark orange selvage

What was the deal with these Orrizonti's on eBay?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/180844142621?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Is the seller on sufu? Did someone from sufu end up arranging a private sale?

give this a try (i'm not the seller):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wolverine-1000-mile-boot-Black-Size-9D-/170822595162?pt=US_Men_s_Shoes&hash=item27c5d1f25a

pardon the interruption, but when is rebuilding the upper on a wider last required other than when the original last fits too narrow initially?

and on the topic of rebuilds/resoles and lasts, is it ideal to have it done on the original last, i.e. will the shape of the boot be altered if not done on the original last?

(self repped by accident)

shinobi, please check your pm's (new sufu does not give notification of new messages)

in my experience (with my shitty jeans), the vertical tub washers tend to get my jeans all twisted up while agitating and/or spinning. This is what causes the unsightly creasing seen most times on machine washed jeans. The front loaders are generally more gentle and less prone to this.

I find agitating by hand in a tub of hot water gets most shrinkage out, without the hassle of a machine.

Anybody still with a pair of these? It's impossible to find accurate information about sizing. The denim seems to stretch pretty easily.

aiya

i don't have the balls to throw raws in a washer for agitating/soaking. fucked up streaks/fades give me nightmares.