beautiful_FrEaK

Choices of denim. The Poll is OPEN! 1. RS1950-ROW Cotton origin: USA Mill: Shinya Loom: Ensyu (Enshu) Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 62 x 46 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate 2. RS501-UF Cotton origin: USA & Australia Mill: Kaihara Loom: Toyoda Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 67 x 48 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate Denim No.1 is the denim used on my sample pair. It's rather new to Simone. Denim No.2 is Simone's "standard" denim where he has the most experience with. Comparison between RS1950 (left) and RS501 (right): His own pair made with RS501 was worn for 10 months and washed approx every 2 weeks:

Little update on the stretch Worn 2 weeks Waist: 36" Front rise: 11.5" Back rise: 17" Thighs: 13"

For transparency reasons: Our lovely Mr @MJF9 is helping me here to get this going and also to help me make decisions behind the curtains (as far as this is necessary).

The possible timing depends a lot on the denim we decide to use. We will most likely offer the choice of two denim and then we all decide which one we want to use . The denim is probably ready in November but we don't know if it is the start or end of November. If it will be end of November and with the shipping from Japan and finishing the possible 25 jeans, we will rather see the arrival of the jeans in January. Especially with Christmas/New Year in between. Shipping in that time of the year is dangerous (loss of packages).

This would be my target dates. I will check with Simone if this is doable especially since he has to order new denim for it in time.

Regarding contest duration there is a strong indication for 18 months. I will let the poll open though. Next topic will probably be the denim we want to use. We will reject the option of Proximity Mill denim. Although Simone was already in contact with them before this idea was brought up, using their denim would increase the costs significantly (high price for the denim, shipping costs and customs fees). So we will run with a denim, acquired from/through Collect Mills.

UES - WoM - Vans

Yeah i think it is wearing them wet and rubbing the wet denim. I think he posted this at one point.

Also the name of his studio, Simone told me.

Added a poll about the duration of the contest

I thought about this as well but then we have seen plenty of versions of this specific 42 model Each contestant can chose his/her preferred cut, so to please most people. But then, check the size charts, the models aren't widely different. The denim will be the same for all, of course. Details of the jeans will depend on the model you take. Custom patch for all, no arcs.

Watch the first post guys, I will update it with more information soooooon! Edit: and done! More info about the possible denim will follow!

So far 21 people have voiced their interest! Of course, the final count will depend on details, price and the like. Simone is in the middle of nowhere right now, but he told me he is following this thread closely. So he sees all your requests and remarks. Still, I try to channel this through me directly to him. Be warned though, in the next 1-2 weeks we are awating our second child which means, I might be less available for some time Point we are discussing so far: which denim we will use will we allow all available cut? (my vote would be 'yes' so we can please everyone) which details should be customizable for the contestants? (Simone does everthing on his own so he is totally flexible but we have to see how much this impacts the production, costs and possible risk to mix something up) pizza shaped arcs (if possible, then optinal I think) and custom patch price

@dum_surfer I have several fit pics across the board of both but unfortunaley they are at different weights... If you fear the 711 will be too small, just buy a bigger size The different rise has a big impact. 1946 in W34 and I am heavier 711 in W34 and I am slimmer

Not wanting to say anything wrong bit I think he can accommodate to such a request (thinking about this as well).

They are raw. And the final result will of course differ based on the denim used in the end

No idea how much the denim from Proximity Mill actually costs, but seeing the asking price of the brands using it makes me think we will be far far north of 300$...

Updated with size charts (sorry for the quality, Sufu made it blurry. Click on them) Currently we are discussing a possible denim, a custom patch and other details and yes...we are also talking price. Stay tuned!

Since WoM has a 30s, a 40s and a 50s cut...would you mind everyone can take his preferred fit with the details and only the denim would be the same?

Limit of participants: 25 Duration of the contest: 18 months Prize: 3rd and 4th classifies 40% discount on a new order 2nd a free pair of jeans 1st a free WWII Type-1 Jkt. Each participant can chose the cut/model Available cuts: 311 (slim straight): a 60s cut if you so will. All orange stitching. Hidden rivets can be added if you want 411 (40s cut): late 40s (clean fly but raw crotch, seams color as desired) or WWII (raw fly, raw crotch, hbt pocket, more wonkyness, all yellow seams, no coin rivets) 5150 (kinda 50s cut, tribute to Eddie van Halen): all orange stitching 611 or S411 (same model): buckle back/reversed yoke construction, hidden rivets, crotch rivets, mixed orange yellow stitches, Yellow/black chain on the inside belt. If desired i could add a ‘42ish version with no buckle back, same fit, crotch rivets seams color as desired, standard yoke construction. Please refer to the size charts. Update: odd sizes can be made! A custom leather patch is possible. Pizza shaped arcs is a no no Choices of denim. The Poll is OPEN! 1. RS1950-ROW Cotton origin: USA Mill: Shinya Loom: Ensyu (Enshu) Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 62 x 46 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate 2. RS501-UF Cotton origin: USA & Australia Mill: Kaihara Loom: Toyoda Rope dyed Yarn count: 7.1 x 7.1 Density: 67 x 48 Weight: approx 12oz loomstate Denim No.1 is the denim used on my sample pair. It's rather new to Simone. Denim No.2 is Simone's "standard" denim where he has the most experience with. Comparison between RS1950 (left) and RS501 (right): His own pair made with RS501 was worn for 10 months and washed approx every 2 weeks: Price: Simone offers the jeans for a lower price of 280€ + shipping! Payment will be 50% on order, rest when the jeans are finished. This will allow him to book the denim (before production) and to offer also embossed labeled buttons for all models except WWII version.

Okay, I will create a pre contest thread where we can gather possible contestants and possible ideas and see where this will take us.

I've contacted Simone and Word of Mouth has it, that WoM would be interested in doing a contest. I would talk about possibilities first. If there is enough interest

**Disclaimer**: This is not a paid review, but I did receive the jeans for free. Whoever said that it's not worth spending on dozens of jeans and heaps of money might need to reconsider, because today, it finally pays off. I received this pair of jeans from the Italian one-man brand "Word of Mouth" to share my impressions. But first, a little background about the person behind the sewing machines. "Word of Mouth" was founded in 2019 by Simone Sorgato, born and raised in Milan, and now based in Rome. However, it all really began in 2015 when Simone had his jeans repaired at Self Edge New York. Inspired by this experience and by videos of ROY and Ben Viapiana at work, the idea of purchasing a Union Special 43200G firmly took root. Initially, Simone only offered hemming services for jeans. Gradually, more vintage and classic sewing machines came into his possession. He familiarized himself with these machines and expanded his services to include repairs. Yet, his ultimate goal was to produce his own jeans. It took many trials and errors before Simone was satisfied with his work, but in 2023, he was finally ready to bring his jeans to customers as a one-man brand. The brand name "Word of Mouth" is a homage to Jaco Pastorius. Simone himself is an avid bass player, which explains the connection. Even though Italy is home to famous denim mills and is renowned for its fashion, Simone chose to source his fabrics, hardware, and threads from Japan. When it comes to denim, Japan is simply the Mecca. However, there is another side to the coin, as some people are skeptical when high-end or reproduction jeans are not made in Japan. I count myself among this group. Therefore, I am all the more curious about how this Japanese-Italian collaboration turns out. The jeans in question are the "411" model. The 411 is inspired by the Levi's 501XX from the 1940s, and this version includes the typical WWII details. This means there are no rivets in the crotch area or on the coin pocket, and of course, no cinch-back. The buttons are the classic donut buttons with the laurel leaf. The fabric for the front pockets is a green herringbone twill. Since Simone does everything by hand—such as hand-folding the denim—and because the old machines sometimes have their quirks, no two pairs of jeans are identical. To stay true to the production conditions during World War II, the seams on the WWII model are a bit more irregular compared to, say, a 1947 model. This is comparable to the jeans from Conner’s Sewing Factory, which are made under similar conditions (these are not intentional flaws as seen with some other brands). Simone finishes one pair of jeans at a time. **The Fit** As mentioned earlier, the 411 model is inspired by the Levi’s 501XX from the 1940s. Depending on one's perspective, it's either a regular straight or slim straight fit. Simone developed the pattern with professional assistance. The rise is high, but not as high as some other brands. Notably, the back rise is lower than in brands like Full Count or Freewheelers, a feature I personally prefer. The taper from the hip to the waist is not as pronounced as in the Sugar Cane 1947 or Conner’s Sewing Factory models, but the 411 provides more room in the hips than CSF models, which I appreciate as a European. For a size 36, the thighs are cut narrower than in the brands mentioned earlier, which might be a concern for some. The leg tapers slightly towards the hem but remains relatively wide. The front pocket openings are small but functional, and the back pockets are of average size, comfortably accommodating a smartphone or wallet. Numbers say more than words. Raw vs. washed at 30 °C in the machine Waist: 36” 33” Front rise: 12.5” 11.5” Back rise: 17” 15.5” Thighs: 13.5” 12.5” Knee: 10.25” 9.25” Leg opening: 9.25” 8.75” Inseam: 34” 31” **The Denim** Simone sources his denim from Collect Mills in Japan. Apparently, Collect Mills also distributes denim from various mills, and this loom-state denim is reportedly from Shinya Mills. It weighs 12oz, which is lighter than the denim used by many Japanese brands for their reproduction jeans, but it falls within the same weight class as LVC jeans. It has a pink selvedge line and is relatively soft in its raw state. There are subtle irregularities, with a bit of slub here and there, and the hairiness is minimal. The indigo hue in its raw state is more of a medium shade with a steel-gray undertone. According to the description, this denim is typical of the 1950s, so it's not entirely accurate for a WWII jean, which would have used a rougher and darker denim. Simone can only purchase 1-2 rolls of denim per order, and once the denim runs out, it's usually no longer available. After washing it tightens up a lot and gets fuzzier. It has a very slight redcast. The denim remains rather soft after the wash. **The Details** The jeans feature the typical WWII details (or rather, the absence of them): laurel leaf donut buttons, missing rivets, partially unfinished seams, and front pocket fabric made from scraps (in this case, a green herringbone twill). All seams are sewn with yellow thread, just like the original. However, since Simone customizes each pair of jeans, I could have opted for different thread colors. Word of Mouth doesn't yet have personalized hardware like buttons and rivets, but for a WWII model, that's just right. The rivets are punch-through, as they should be. On Instagram, you can still see some older WOM models where rivets in the 60s style were used, which, fortunately, was not done here. The hidden rivets are rounded, as seen on vintage jeans. The red tab is made of rayon, just like the original, but it bears the inscription "PIZZA" (unlike the original). The leather patch is made from vegetable-tanned cowhide, an unusual choice since other brands often use goat or deer leather. It has a very smooth texture, and each leather patch is hand-cut and stamped by Simone. It depicts two pizza makers tearing apart a slice of pizza, a twist on the two horses pulling a pair of jeans. The leather comes from an Italian tannery. The paper flasher is as humorously designed as the leather patch. On my jeans, it wasn’t stapled, but that’s a minor issue since it would be the first thing removed anyway. The belt loops are slightly raised, which isn't typically found in vintage Levi’s but has become a standard in serious reproduction jeans. **The Construction** Five different thread sizes were used in the construction. As mentioned earlier, all seams were sewn with yellow thread, which is 100% cotton. Simone places great importance on the correct aesthetics, so the thread for the fly and front pockets is thinner. Combined with the 100% cotton thread, this naturally creates a potential weak point. To capture the feel of WWII jeans, the seams are not all perfect. Also, due to the hand-folding technique and the lack of ironing, the seams won't achieve the precision of brands like Iron Heart, but that’s not the intention. There are also unfinished seams and a few loose threads, but this is also intentional. One might argue that this approach masks the seamstress's shortcomings and sells them as a feature, but I believe that if someone gets machines from the 1920s to the 1970s up and running and adjusts them to their liking, their sewing skills will be more than adequate. Aside from that, the jeans feel solid. Only The buttonholes feel a bit loose, which might cause them to stretch too much and not hold the buttons securely. After the initial wash, the seams start to pucker and especially the roping looks fantastic. Simone definitely knows how to handle the Union Special. The buttonholes also shrank a bit and it feels more secure. **Summary and Conclusion** Overall, the 411 is a pair of jeans that perfectly embodies the concept of WWII jeans, as we've seen increasingly in recent years. The feeling of receiving a deadstock vintage pair is well conveyed. However, Word of Mouth has to measure up against a brand like Conner’s Sewing Factory, which is a high bar. At CSF, only machines that existed at the time of the jeans are used. WOM has the same level of accuracy. As a new brand, WOM is also dependent on "run of the mill" denim and doesn't have the option to use proprietary denim. Such denim comes with a significant financial risk, and according to Simone, he (still) lacks the expertise to help developing his own denim. WOM’s big advantage over CSF: you can order the jeans via Instagram without having to travel to Japan. Priced at €340, WOM is in the higher range. In terms of concept, I have to compare WOM with brands like CSF Rebuilt and Ooe Yofukuten. Rebuilt and Ooe are both cheaper; only CSF is more expensive. However, Ooe works in batches, and not every pair of jeans is made from start to finish before starting the next one. Rebuilt also works in batches, but these are smaller and more variable, depending on the orders received. Generally, the low Yen exchange rate makes it harder for WOM to compete with the Japanese competition. Established brands are now available at unprecedentedly low prices. Then there’s the matter of brand provenance, as I mentioned earlier. Japan simply holds the highest regard as a country of origin for jeans, something even Simone acknowledges by sourcing his denim, hardware, and threads from Japan. I was skeptical too, and for this reason, I probably would never have bought a pair of WOM jeans, despite liking the photos on Instagram. Therefore, I’m very grateful to Simone for giving me the opportunity to receive and test these jeans. Perhaps it will convince others to take off their "cherry-red Japan glasses" for once and try something new.

We didn't have a dedicated thread yet, just some info in the "Unknown Japanese Brands" thread. Official Homepage http://www.jelado.co.jp/ And the website for the online shop: https://www.jelado.com/ Jelado offers a wide range of Americana stuff.

Encouraged by Edmond and out of interest I decided to make this thread. An attempt to give a comprehensive list of available (or not available anymore) repros, designed after a Levi's '50s cut. Also a place to compare these models concerning: cut denim fit measurements details "air" a small, yet imperfect list first of all the LVCs to which we refer to LVC 1955 LVC Japan 1955 1953 1950 503B Denime XX type 1951 Evisu 2001 Fob Factory F098 Fullcount 1105 0105C Joe McCoy 905 Ooe Yofukuten 01 cut Pherrows 521 421 Real McCoy 001 613 Samurai S0510 Skul 5000XX Studio d'Artisan 001/101 SugarCane 1955 (Okinawa) (Hawaii) The FlatHead 3005 1005 F350 Warehouse (1001X) (1000X ) Warren Please feel free to add some more, share your pictures and experience.