James Vincent

Hopefully it's lamb (RAM) leather

Haha, I'm confused! Does Julius ram = lamb (young sheep) or does ram = ram (uncastrated adult male sheep)?

Lamb:

Ram (horns being a key identifier):

A ram's skin would be larger and have a more weathered character due to its age - which I assumed Julius used in this instance?

Btbam, Mihara looked brilliant in pictures and the show sounded stunning, tell me it was in person too?

does he have a website? cant seem to find it when googling

He has a website for his group: http://www.sosu.co.jp/

oh lame! what happened to gareth

The rumours were debunked a couple of months ago. LVMH helped fund Gareth's Paris men's wear debut show, but it doesn't look like they've had any involvement past that. Under Rick and Michele Lamy's wing, he's probably doing alright as it is.

That DH SS10 preview is different to what I was expecting... I see KVA is still fixated with Argentinian boys =) Still not something I'd wear, but I much prefer this relaxed summer lounge wear to the uptight garbage he's brought in the last few collections... The too-small lapels on the blazer piss me off though.

unlike the FW07 moto collar with 2 long zips which is just a margiela rip :\

I agree to an extent... but Margiela didn't invent the style or anything, that piece is from his line 14 - reproductions of found objects from opshops etc.

how to wear leggings without looking ghey?

1) Layered

2) Be a thug

Bt, for shoes, I think Buttero is a good fit, a lot of the stuff outside of the combat and work boots would be out of place, but I think you could depend on them for good staples. N.d.c. do nice work, but their styles are rarely compelling at full retail, and some of their lasts are getting a bit kooky.

Personally, brands with good growth potential and international appeal; Mihara (the weathered boots), Balenciaga (futurist styles to work in with the likes of NAT) and Andrew McDonald, who has potential to develop into a unique artisanal line.

If my new collection is 7 months away and D wants a jacket for this winter, its not really a comparison =) Lad's sizing/fit will be right on for D, and while there is some things I would do differently on that LD moto, it's a good, clean example of a classic.

Hahaha! As soon as there is something worth showing, I'll do so =)

that being said, it's not that different than the V&V moto

Unfortunately none of those motos exist in a 44... 46 is the smallest size they were ordered in. Tuchuzy just took a restock with sizes up to 54 though! Pending delivery of a couple more ordered jackets, my custom-produced leathers are all used up, so its officially the end of collection one =)

There were 7 jackets in collection one, 6 of which went into production. Next collection has 17 pieces for men, so I think its safe to say we're just at the tip of the iceberg...

what do you mean about canvassed construction jv? are you talking interfacing?

Yeah, it's the difference between having that interface fixed to the wool, or a floating layer between the wool and the lining, and accordingly, the difference between synthetic and natural fibers.

The floating layer is more traditional, fused isn't necessarily bad, it's easier to produce, but has a tendency to reduce the life of the suit. Be it through movement or dry cleaning, you can get pulling and bubbling on the surface of the suit.

It's kind of like a selvedge on denim. Lacking it doesn't necessarily make the jeans any less functional or worse looking, but its the short cuts in workmanship / attention to detail that are indicative of an inferior product. We justify value based on longevity, but its a bit of a red herring, because the likelihood is fashion/style will outmode the item before it is outworn.

Any comments on Prada suits JV?

I believe they have two suiting lines, a cheaper line with fused construction ~$1500 USD retail, and their top end (canvassed construction) which retails ~$2000 USD, which are well regarded as far as designer suits go.

suits suits suits... they are so hard to find the perfect fit. My Filippa K serves me well, I don't wear one enough to bother so much.

p.s. I'm very against buttonholes on lapels.

Filippa K, Acne, J. Lindeberg and the other Swedish labels do a good job of providing a sharp cut at a good quality / price ratio, if you find something that works, stick with it =) Buttonholes are just a tradition, where else are you going to put your boutonniere? =) Ann Demuelemeester is one of the few designers who regularly incorporates the corresponding button for the hole, and I think the high-buttoned look works for her.

It's a risky grey that one... It's the grey you find on 80s suits at the opshop. I kind of love it for myself, but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone else I'm interested to try on NAT's suits, I'm starting to get too old for trial and error purchases

I'm definitely no authority, dudes like Fuuma and other StyleForum frequenters have got a lot more knowledge than me... But I reckon you're onto a good thing with NAT. His standard suit is good; one button with a low button stance, clean notch lapel with sharp proportions, but not too fashiony - which is what you want for it to double for daytime, dinners and deaths.

This is the other model suit that Dior re-releases every collection, a carry-over from 2004. Short length, one button, peak lapel. Short length jackets are a little played out now, and having 1/2 your ass hanging out isn't always appropriately attire, but I've always got my eye out for one going cheap.

and from all them you've only got the dior left?

Yep. The "Classic" in black wool - two button, notch lapel, regular length. Here's a grey one that is a good representation:

Horse hair full canvas, hand finished pick stitching... The quality of the collections has been all over the place these last few years, but the suiting has been consistently good. I picked this one to stay with because the proportions are conservative enough for any occasion, but the cut is just sharp enough.

Will definitely bring it in. I've had a lot of suits, blazers and coats over the past two years (Lanvin, Prorsum, Cloak, Raf, Dior), but I keep my wardrobe pretty minimal these days. I'd consider getting a Taralis suit, depending of fit/fabric/style, but I'd sell my current black Dior suit to buy it.

Jbone, it was an eBay joint =) Good pieces are rare on eBay, Y!JP has the bulk of the good bits, but the prices are out of joint. 80k upward for a blazer, 100k upward for a suit - years old, even in the medium/larger sizes that are in less demand.

Picked up this 2003 DH blazer tonight... $300...

as far as i am aware the gradient is cover in a material called Tyvek then the pattern is printed over the top?

edit: confirmed here and here (errm excuse the first link )

Well that explains the plastic feel... it's literally coated in it!

JV can give you his thoughts on my new RO leather he just visited to see it. He can give you his Negative/Positive views on it

My biggest compliment on the leather is how soft it is even with the blistered surface, which is easy to lose when creating such an intense distressed finish. Very very nicely done.

Im not sure how they get the gradient effect but i can only imagine what screenprinting on leather would look and feel like

It looks digitally printed, up close the gradient portion looks like magazine print under a magnifying glass.

antonioli.eu or luisaviaroma.com - can't remember now...

oki-ni has them currently, but they, like the Assin's of this world, run an additional mark up on the price http://www.oki-ni.com/invt/ro0058wht

DJI, this white RO tank with thin ribbing is the one you've been looking for? I picked up two when SS09 dropped, but I imagine XS is harder to find than M.

And TTT, those boots are an excellent pick up, congrats!

only grey leather I've seen worn really well is c.r.e.a.m. with his grey RO:

Cream's is actually the fabric version (cotton/silk/wool blend) of the Rick moto - I bought the same one a few weeks back =)

Flew back in from Sydney this afternoon, collected a new shipment of jackets on my way past the airport, which bt will have in his hands tomorrow. Most jacket orders have been filled, got to dig through the packing list and see whats not made it / coming in the next shipment.

I'm keeping details of the collection under wraps, but I don't think you'll be disappointed with the next collection's colour palette, DJI. One update is that Lampo is on board for our zipper hardware, which is brilliant.