yung_flynn

The description of that Moto pair makes them sound like the TCB-made 90s style cut (which Moto specifically calls out) that some people (can’t remember who exactly) were hoping for in the TCB Contest thread with the addition of suspender rivets on these. They look great

I did not get my Duck Digger pair new or raw so I only know the end point, but they've plateaued at 80-81 cm which is pretty consistent with Hinoya's estimate of 7 cm shrinkage assuming that my pair also started at 88 cm. I wish that they were 2" longer though - at my height I have no choice but to wear them Hayashi-style

After a long period of deliberation and remeasuring my slimmest pair (a modern day 501 that I still keep as reference and which is slimmer than the Kyotos), I finally scooped these up today. There aren't too many older pairs that pop up in both my waist and inseam (31/33, 31/34) so I figured that this was my chance. Worst case they will fill the 60s repro void in my closet

I know that the big Alden-heads really hate the mechanically sewn models, but I have not seen them in person so my knowledge is all secondhand. They could actually be bad or it could just be frustration at change. I've never really dabbled in Alden loafers because my feet make loafer sizing very difficult and I'm never in a place with an Alden stockist for long enough to get properly sized. It's also relatively hard to find secondhand pairs in long and narrow sizes to take a quick sizing flyer. Alden Model Project compiles all the second hand listings too if you can find a pair in your size. I would not pay much more than $200 - non-shell loafers don't hold the same resale value as their boots. https://aldenmodelproject.com/

I like the softer lines and toe bump of the LHS but the wait time can be huge. If you have a pair of non shell Alden Indy’s, the faux moc toe stitching will be machine sewn so you could imagine that on a loafer. The shell Indy’s are hand sewn. Have you checked The Shoe Mart for factory seconds of the LHS? You should be able to get some for 30-40% discount

Some of the conversation here feels in the spirit of some of the philosophical thoughts (both clothing/style and otherwise) that I've been thinking about during late nights with my son. Here is my screed. There are all sorts of different reasons that lead people to choose the items that they wear. They may dress a certain way due to economics, aesthetics, to generate "likes", to blend in, to stand out, to convey affinity or membership in a particular subculture, because they just enjoy wearing particular items for the sake of it, etc. Obviously, these reasons are not all mutually exclusive. In the image and click based world of today, arguably certain reasons are privileged more than others. In an Instagram fit pic, a pair of vintage Evis Lot 2501 No. 1 (as an example pertinent to this thread) will be more or less indistinguishable from a pair of modern day Levis or mall brand jeans and would generate no more likes or hype, as opposed to say the Oni Asphalt fabric. In the real world though, their is an intangible element to those Evis that can only be experienced through love and wear - the tactile experience of the fabric, the history, the passion, dedication, and craftsmanship of the creator. This goes beyond clothing as well, at least it does for me. It's similar to the reason why I collect vintage pulp hardboiled and sci-fi paperbacks rather than the modern day reissues of those titles. I just love the vintage Robert McGinnis cover art as opposed to the more soulless covers of today. It's the reason why I'm going to start getting into film photography (at least occasionally) with an old Nikon SLR and an old Leica rangefinder. Sure I can probably create more technically perfect images with my Fuji mirrorless camera and Lightroom, but then I lose some of the tactile joy and craft of the analog experience. Rather than spamming 100s of shots for the perfect image, I have to be much more deliberate in my choices. Even in my professional area of science (chemistry,chemical engineering/soft matter physics), there was a sense of discovery, wonder, and careful details present in older literature than in contemporary literature. These older works often did science for the sake of fundamental discovery and carefully crafted experiments and shared the results in a more sober matter-of-fact manner. I never learned as much as I did from literature from the mid-90s and earlier. Today, as in denim, a lot of the work fixates more on the final product than the journey. Large portions of academic research focus more on device fabrication and subsequent commodification in search of an easy start-up spinoff or payday at the expense of fundamental research. I don't blame them since such hype generation drives a lot of the funding decisions, at least in the US, but this reality is ultimately what led me away from academic roles/professorships and is partly why I'm now an industrial scientist. To conclude and as a slight aside, some of the discussion here is ultimately what led me to purchase the TCB no. 2. The jeans are clearly polarizing in aesthetic as evidence by the contest thread here. They were most definitely not designed to generate 100 fit pic posts on Reddit. Rather, they exist because Inoue-san clearly loves the history of the denim and cared deeply about maklng those jeans for their own sake. Are they a pair that I would pick in a vacuum - no. However, I too appreciate the attention to detail and wanted to do my smallest part to ensure that the passion and craft can live on a little longer

Thankfully, the current Full Count inseams are all too short for me in my waist size so it’s not a huge loss for me personally. I think that @Alec Leamasis probably correct about WH. Warehouse seems to be following a very different business and marketing model than FC at the moment, and feels like they are trying to reposition themselves in the marketplace to an extent

Denime 232/Kirkland tee/Vintage Polo Andrew shirts/Rancourt mocs Bonus pic: RRL denim workshirt/Jungmaven tee/RRL indigo tooled belt/TCB Cats Drive/Alden 405

@nick682 Celluloid seems to still have the older prices - 2102 is listed for $260 USD rather than $450 at Bears. Same thing seems to be true for 0105 and 1101 pricing

In case anyone is interested, I stumbled across what seems to be a very good condition for a pretty good price for a pair of size 33 2101 Leepros https://www.fromjapan.co.jp/japan/en/auction/yahoo/input/h1104414259/

J Press madras popover/Buzz 1942 chinos/Rancourt tassel loafers (Brown CXL)

Yeah I remember this seller now. They have all sorts of unique Orrizonti and Shins era pants (corduroys, bootcut denim, black denim, etc.) among other things (older Warehouse and Full Count items). I almost bought an Orrizonti era pair of tan bootcut Bedford cords at one point that are gone now. Nothing is in my size so you're safe from me.

Ha! I actually stumbled across this exact eBay listing and was going to share it before getting sidetracked and forgetting. Glad that somebody got them! They were not my size.

The graphic that Denime released actually confuses me the more that I look at it. Nearly every jean model in it is labelled 232. The 15.5 oz weight and purple selvedge for the 220a in the translated write-up is different than the 14.25 oz and yellow selvedge in the previous run (and different from the Warehouse and Bears restock description). @Alec Leamas The 224 ecru description calls out them being part of the XX series. I wonder if they are the pair in the 3rd yellow column labeled as 232. The description makes the ecru 224 sound like the natural version of their new XX denim which sounds consistent with their chart

Thanks to both of you! I kind of figure that this would be the case for me as well since I have relatively large thighs and build for my waist size. I am a little concerned about the 710 rise and thighs on me, although I like the simplicity of the model and brand. The 220a rise actually would probably suit my frame pretty well and not be that large at my size and height and I like the denim based on the 232 jacket. I'm not necessarily looking or needing to buy any of them just yet, but I've considered all of those 3 (710, 714, and 220a) off-and-on for a bit. I'm in no rush at all and probably will at least wait to see what the new Denime XX and ring-spun series are like, before deciding if I want to buy any of them at all.

I've been spending a lot of time gardening and doing yard work in my pair of Warehouse this spring. Azaleas (pink flowers) and Siberian irises (purple flowers) are currently in bloom. Hopefully, Big Leaf Golden-Ray is next and later Russian Sage and Black-Eyed Susans.

@beautiful_FrEaK Out of curiosity, what is your personal preference (historical accuracy aside) between your Resolute pairs and their relatively similar cuts in the new Denime by Warehouse. For example, do you prefer Resolute 714, 711, or Denime 220a for a wider 40's/50's cut? Do you prefer the Resolute 710 or Denime 221 or 224 for a slimmer more tapered 60's/70's pair? @blooming I think that you have most of these too. I thought about including some of the older Denime models (e.g, classic XX, 66xx, Kyoto) but feel like that would be scope creep and a more difficult apples-to-apples comparison.

I'll add mine too. I try to keep things limited to pairs that I wear at least semi-regularly. Samurai S211VX got the boot this year - fades were starting to come in nicely but way too tapered for my calves and leg opening way too small for my feet. Warehouse Duck Digger 1001xx 1947 (probably my most worn pair) TCB 50's (close 2nd in terns of wear frequency) TCB Cat's Drive (occasional wear for now until the WH get too rough) RRL Black Slim High (nicely fade in lap but too slim and tapered for me now + waist touch too big; very occasional wear) Sugar Cane 1947 Black x White (new pickup to replace RRL in rotation as black pair) TCB No. 2 1890 (to arrive this summer - may bump Cat's Drive depending on how I feel or get bumped if not to my taste) Denime 232 Type II (only jacket for now)

Time to make your own Banner Denim

+1 for MI. MN is my preferred cold weather state though

I kind of like this table graphic that Denime made, including some of their new models. The auto translation of the description is a bit rough though. I feel like they are trending into Warehouse-style nomenclature, which I find a bit confusing. Most everything is some variation of lot 232 or 233. https://www.instagram.com/p/C7eeN6pv2I-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

@dada mafiosiVarious versions of the 1001xx pop up secondhand occasionally too in minimally worn condition and for reasonable prices if you’re lucky or patient enough to find your size. That’s how I found my pair

@SLAYER What does the metal hardware look like after all of this? Hydrogen peroxide is a wicked oxidizer so I’d imagine that the metal rivets and buttons would change, especially depending on final acid/base equilibrium or stoichiometry.

Haha. Yeah I'm around 6'3" or probably really more like 6'4" if both my legs were the same length - my legs are a bit long for my body though since I have the same inseam as my 6'5" father-in-law. I have to wear a lot of jeans Hayashi-style regardless of choice (I need 32" to even hit mid-ankle), TCB being an exception

Same for me or I would definitely have bit on the black 714. Noticed the same thing about SC inseam too - almost too short for me