yung_flynn

As someone with a nearly identical height and waist, I'm really curious to see how they fit you. Warehouse 1001xx is also one of the better fitting pairs for me as well, although I wish that the inseam were 1"/2 cm longer. The rise at smaller waists is definitely hard for taller people - I've seen plenty of "mid-rise" pairs with a 10" FR that almost is below my hips. Same for leg opening on "relaxed tapered" cuts, which usually are heinously small at small waist sizes and nearly impossible to pull large feet though (I broke the chain stitch hem on a Samurai pair because of this).

How's the crotch on yours holding up? My pair is roughly the same age and just got a much needed pre-emptive crotch repair this morning after I could see seam opening in the airport yesterday

I don't have a pair of 1101 for comparison, but the denim on the new Big E's is different than the Banner denim. The 1101 denim is more of a 60s denim (to my understanding), while Banner Denim is a 30s denim. The Banner Denim has a nice gritty hand feel - in a vintage and not an exaggerated way. There are some 1001xx photos with Banner denim, including my own, on page 363 of the thread. Edit: here is a side-by-side close-up of Samurai zero denim beneath WH banner denim for reference/comparison. Banner denim has a textured and gritty feel but not as extreme as say a Samurai denim Samurai zero denim WH Banner Denim

Vintage Made in Wngland Balmacaan/Vintage Patagonia hemp workshirt from the mid 90s/RRL hand tooled indigo belt/RRL denim/Rancourt boots super shadowy so here’s closeup for better colors/details

Thanks for the follow-up. I didn't see it peeking out like in some of the other models (at least in the Self Edge stock photo that I saw). Interestingly, I checked photos from other stockists and it's clearly there on their SC 1947 models. Warehouse's 1947 definitely does not have the coin pocket selvedge, at least based on my Duck Digger pair though. Not sure if it's an oversight or intentional.

Is that selvedge in the coin pocket? Is coin pocket selvedge a historically accurate 1946 detail? Mostly curious because my WH DD-1947 does not have the coin pocket selvedge and Sugar Cane 1947 doesn't seem to either (at least based on product photos - I don't have a pair). However, WW2 jeans (at least the CSF and Buzz versions) seem to have coin pocket selvedge in product photos and same for 1955 jeans (TCB and Sugar Cane). So if it's a historically accurate 1946 detail, why did it disappear in 1947 and reappear in the 50s?

Does Comet Coffee in Ann Arbor sell beans? I've always liked that shop - one of the only ones in Ann Arbor that didn't disappoint. Never tried their decaf, but Newport Coffee never let me down. It was one of my go-tos when we lived in Evanston and I got some shipped to MI with no issue. They tend to specialize in lighter to medium roasts - a lot of anaerobic, unwashed, fruity roasts. I lived in Minneapolis for a while to and have been to the Dogwood shop a few items and I think that I personally prefer Newport's coffee (the caff ones at least)

Everything purchased secondhand in nearly unworn condition except for shoes. Todd Snyder blazer/Ralph Lauren Oxford shirt/WH DD-1001xx 1947/Rancourt Ranger Moc

It's more an issue of the shoulders than anything else. I bought a Vintage Ivy and an Ametora one at the same time and measured the sleeves myself. The sleeve length was identical on both from center back at the collar line, but the Ametora hits my thumb joint while the Vintage Ivy ends about 2" above my wrist joint. I will say that they are great shirts if the sizing works out. They'd be perfect with loafers, Denime or Resolute denim, and either worn alone or layered under a shetland sweater, tweed blazer, or denim jacket - more or less going full Hayashi-style

Thanks! This is cool. Word of warning for anyone with broad shoulders - the Kamakura Vintage Ivy shirts have really high and constricting arm holes for their respective neck sizes. I can't wear them at all. For example, the size 15.5 sleeves measure about 34-34.5" like their size chart lists, but they functionally fit like a 32" sleeve because the arm holes are so high. The Ametora ones are much better.

@rockon99 They're looking good. Are these the natural indigo Ai-Benkei ones? Or the Benkei ones? How do you find the leg opening? I found the taper on these to be tastefully done (no carrot leg), but the leg opening is maddeningly small for size 32. It's hell to slide my monstrous US 13 feet through.

@chicote@AlientoyWorkmachine you all might find Guy Debord’s Society of the Spectacle interesting, particularly chapters 1 and 2 and sections 25-34. Your discussion on work and chemicals made me pick it up again last night. The idea of craftsmanship and search for discovery is what led me to a PhD, something that’s been lost in the machine of corporate research and work. Even much academic research nowadays has strayed for strong fundamental, curiosity-driven research towards start-up commodification.

Cold as hell today. Jeans are longer than they look in the photo Vintage Made in England balmacaan/J Press Aran Sweater/WH DD-1001xx 1947/Rancourt boots

@Alec Leamas Yes the original owner of these jeans picked the upside down arc before I got them. The coin pocket lightning strike fades seems to be the most distinctive characteristic of these - more so than even the mainline 1001xx. The handful of faded pairs on Warehouse's website all seem to have that detail. My best guess for the reason is that the orientation of the coin pocket denim to the pocket bag denim to the leg denim is different between the standard 1001xx and the DD-1001xx. I posted about this in the Denime thread a couple weeks ago.

Gave my small rotation of jeans a wash to start the new year. Here’s my WH Duck Digger 1001xx 1947. I’ve personally had them about 4-5 months although I bought them secondhand with a few prior wears and minimal to no fading. They’ve had at least 3 washes and really probably at least 4. I wear them a couple to a few times per week primarily rotating them with TCB 50s. They’re still not well faded but I can see the onset of some early fading. The coin pocket lightning strike fades are most evident. Some early roping on the hems, nascent train tracks, and puckering on the seams as well. If you look closely there are the beginnings of some lap fades as well. A few pocket opening and crotch stitches broke nearly immediately but they haven’t progressed further. May need a preemptive crotch reinforcement in near future just to be safe. They feel right at the start of accelerated fading, especially once I become a dad in a few months. So it will be interesting to see how these develop in the next few months. Not a big fan of the factory distressed patch and oxidized buttons but the banner denim and fit makes up for it in my book.

Ralph Lauren peacoat, Bosie submariner, TCB 50s, Rancourt boots

My Rancourt Byron boots in Black Essex from their summer pre-saw finally arrived. Despite the wait I’m happy with them and the value at the pre-sale price feels reasonable. Feels like they will pair well with my TCB 50s and WW2 chinos

Yes it is. The collar rolls a bit more, lacks the back collar button, and the locker loop. The standard Vintage Ivy ones don't work at all for me - armholes are too high and shoulders too narrow. The Ameotra is a bit more relaxed in the chest 24" vs. 22" for 15.5 neck, arm holes are lower, and shoulders are wider. So even though both Vintage Ivy and Ametora have the same measured sleeve length (I even measured them myself), the Ametora functionally fits longer and the sleeves go about an extra inch down my arm.

My try at Ivy style with a little wider denim than the usual 66 style Kamakura Ametora/TCB 50s/Rancourt

Vintage Lee's also seem to be interesting - the denim for the coin pocket, main pocket bag, and leg all share the same direction which none of the Levi repros that I found share. RRL Limited Edition High Slim Rigid Black - my own pair shared in Leepro thread; not a strict repro by any means but the details are shared by the WH leepro Warehouse 1002 Cowboy Pants (Clutch Cafe stock photo)

Denime Lot 220A (from Son of a Stag) Denime 220a from BF - zoom-in of coin pocket TCB 60s (from Redcast) TCB 50s (Redcast) - I checked my own pair and the photo is true to life TCB s40 (Redcast) Sugarcane 1947 (Redcast) Warehouse DD-1001xx 1947 (Son of a Stag) - even the stock photo shows big creases on the pocket coin pocket. This is clearly an outlier from all the others that I scanned. The triply crossed directions from coin pocket to pocket bag to leg probably creates a huge amount of friction which is how even a factory wash gives such pronounced creasing in that region. Standard run Warehouse 1001xx (SoaS) - directions are actually different than the DD version. The coin pocket denim is parallel to the main pocket bag denim and both are perpendicular to the leg. The stock photo doesn't show anything like the puckering/creasing/lightning of the DD model either. Both use Banner denim so that feature must be related to the non-denim construction aspects. WH DD-1001xx 1947 (my own pair) - true to the stock photos; lightning/creases accentuated by a couple more washes and much more faded than the rest of the denim; slightly different shape than BF's but they go in a roughly similar direction despite the denim direction of the coin pocket being reversed compared to 220a

I think that you are right about it being a construction feature. I think that the denim direction and maybe the coin pocket placement is key. The denim direction in the coin pocket vs. the underyling pocket vs. the leg is something that I've never really looked at in any detail before. So I took a peek at stock images of various TCB models, Denime 220a, and my pair of DD-1001xx. For the TCB 50s, 60s, and Denime 220a, the direction of the coin pocket denim is parallel to the rest of the pocket and both are perpendicular to the rest of the jean. For TCB s40, the coin pocket direction is perpendicular to rest of the pocket and the rest of the pocket is parallel to the leg (so coin pocket is also perpendicular to the leg). For WH DD-1001xx-1947, coin pocket is perpendicular to the rest of the pocket and the rest of the pocket is perpendicular to the leg (so coin pocket direction is parallel to leg). I think that this contributes to the exteme lightning fades of the WH - you can even see puckering in the stock photo of the WH 1947 coin pocket. Interestingly, SC 1947 is not the same as WH 1947 though, as the SC 1947 is more like the Denime and TCB 50s/60s. The coin pocket creases/fades for the DD-1001xx-1947 and Denime 220a are both in the same physical direction, but they are opposite directions with respect to the direction of the coin pocket denim though. Apologies for going super off-track, my curiousity on this point got the best of me.

The coin pocket especially caught my eye. My DD-1001xx are not quite faded yet except for the coin pocket which has nearly identical lightning strike fades as your 220a. Different denim though as the DD-1001xx is the 13.5 oz banner denim.

I'm a small-waisted (31"), tall guy. I feel like I've seen some leg openings on tapered fits right near 6" which makes my eyes water as I imagine trying to slide my size 13 US feet through that hole. Even in the best of cases (Samurai S211VX comes to mind), most "relaxed" tapered fits converge to a rough facsimile of a classic slim straight with an annoyingly tight leg opening. The thigh of the "slim tapered" Cat's Drive, in my size at least, is wider even than the Oni and PBJ "relaxed tapered" cuts. I snoozed too long on the TCBs though and their pre-order ended

Out of curiosity, is the relatively slim fit of the Cat's Drive jeans true to the fit of Lee 101B's of the era (late 40s)? My only point of reference is my pair of loosely-adapted Leepros (pastiche of 30s-50s details I think) from RRL, and those are also very slim with a generous rise - slimmer even than the TCBs