ATWM

Late to this but happy birthdays to you both!

I’m not on instagram and so can’t really see anything. have they announced a preorder? Wish they would not use it as their only communication…oh well.

Sold my (motor) bike long ago but can’t bring myself to part with my Perfecto. Only other downside I would say is that these jackets are in danger of wearing the person. As opposed to the person wearing the jacket. They’re a bit of a statement. Though I think that’s been lessened over the years with how ubiquitous they’ve become. Much as I love mine I can’t pull it off every day, but some days hell yeah.

I sized mine not much expecting to use the cinch, and now they’re cinched all the way. Ha. At least til the next wash.

Most good tailors/alterations shops can replace a zipper, it’s not that uncommon.

Never! This is just a question of layering strategies, really.

Variations on the same ol’ Inis Meain / Peregrine / Kapital / WMJ / Oak St.

^ not as far along as you but definitely feeling like they'll be fast fasters, especially compared to the Ooe's I was just used to! Maybe reaching 18 months in a good state will require some well chosen breaks along the way.

Each person is different and I’m not a doctor (though for walking pain a visit may not hurt) - but I’ve found the long term benefits of avoiding excessive padding / structure have resulted in healthier and stronger feet. I also have high arches fwiw, though not criminally so. For people who have never taken that route easing in is generally recommended to avoid injury - but sort of like sitting a lot (without compensatory work) can lead to core atrophy can lead to back pain, that can happen with feet in a way. A lot of padding can help but probably better thought of a bandaid than addressing the root of the issue - and that’s fine and all but worth noting depending on your goals.

Not exactly in line with your request but for me, if I’m doing a day of 20-25k steps and I’m not running, and it’s not out in the woods (or it’s just all relatively flat surface) I will feel much better afterwards having done it in Birks or barefoot shoes than any Nike or whatever trainer I’ve ever tried.

^ this is the vibe the world needs. Love it @jkbrwn

This is a real long shot but if anyone has an Ooe Cossack jacket (moleskin, not leather) in a size 40 that they’re willing to part with shoot me a message.

I live a university town, I see a lot of it already haha.

Interesting the way this conversation has gone. In general, I don’t buy the concept of aging out of jeans. Aging out of particular ways to wear them or styles of fit, yes, yes. Yes, originally they were workwear, but we’re talking decades and decades since they leapt out of the factories and the mines and into the general population. I guess there are levels to this - and I suppose this is more specific to when and where I’ve grown up and lived - they’ve been the ultimate neutral and sort of signal flattener. They don’t really convey class or position on society one way or the other - but they do convey a basic sense of giving at least the tiniest of a shit in most cases - where sweats/tracks/pajamas are on much less stable territory here. They go at least as far in one direction as chinos or trousers do another direction. This might be a less popular opinion and really is just about my own sensibility but I find the attempts to formalize or “dress up” jeans to be misguided. A blazer with jeans - even dark jeans with tonal stitching - and dress shoes, for me, conveys a sense of a sort of conformist or an institutionalist who wants to be seen as a touch less serious in order to ingratiate themselves. If it’s a 5 pocket design, it should not be paired with a sport coat. I am painting with a broad brush here - but in the most basic sense, the gut reaction is to run the other direction - or to suggest putting on pants that don’t confuse the tone of the sport coat and probably the person wearing it. I think the only thing worse is sneakers with a sport coat and jeans, or those awful shoes that have dress style tops and fat rubber soles. As always, exceptions exist, and in the heritage world there are things like sack coats and chore coats that confuse this sort of assertion even more. I apologize if I’ve offended anyone’s general sensibility - take a free shot at me. Or, even better, wear it well and be in the world proving me wrong.

In reference to the covid era in particular - that’s when I came to Sufu (I was a lurker for a time before that). It was 2020 maybe? Late joiner in that sense. But anyways, I couldn’t not wear jeans during Covid just because you couldn’t go anywhere. As a freelancer, when not out in the field and working from a home studio quite often - I’ve always equated putting on real pants with going to work, silly as that is. I still put them on when I get out of bed to write at 5:30 am. This has been the case for me forever. I could never get real work done in “soft” clothes like sweatpants - save that for physical training. In 2020, it seemed like this was maybe the last place left in the world where people dared to put on real pants, so I finally had to join.

Aren’t At Last jeans sanforized or am I wrong about that?

Forgive the sincere response, it's really all that I'm capable of. But I guess I see it a little differently - I was never too interested in the idea of cutting edge, in fact for years I enjoyed skateboarding in whatever hand me down gap and american eagle clothes that came my family's way, and only over time by hanging out in skateshops did I sort of go that way. Even at those shops I just wanted to find stuff that I felt "myself" in, whatever that means - stuff I was drawn towards tended to be more subtle I guess. In this way, I'm not dressing too differently than I was 20 years ago, which for some is sad and for me is something I'm content with, but it also just happens to work with the other facets of my life (most of the time, I can put on a suit if I need to). I just have mostly better versions of the same stuff - and that's why I like some of repro makers, because that's where you get the best versions of the basic stuff. I know the sort of consideration that went into it, and can appreciate it for that, but it's not much of a signal of anything other than ordinariness to most others. I have learned about and come to appreciate some of the more out there stuff, but it still is stuff that I feel "myself" in. Scare quotes because I don't put too much stock in that whole notion - I guess I don't really identify much with how I dress - or rather, it's something I find is fun to take an interest in and learn about, but I don't think it goes much beyond that for me. My deeper values or interests have tended to lie elsewhere. I think the closest it gets to having to do with values is that again - the jeans and sweatshirt, denim jacket etc is something that tends to disappear in public. It's ubiquitous - sort of a non-thing. Keen people can see it's maybe a nice version of a non-thing, and that's always fun, but in general - at least where I've lived, the way I've dressed has more or less been a non-statement - or for anyone who knows me, I've been in versions of the same thing forever. It's not really much noticed. Even back in my younger skating days I usually had the more anodyne versions of whatever was out there. I've never felt a huge need for a lifestyle to match up with clothing though. For context, I ran a marathon in surf shorts because that's all I had, and I couldn't be bothered to buy proper running shorts - finding them ridiculous looking and a waste of money. None of this means that I don't care at all what people think, it's just that if I find something I like and am comfortable in - it's pretty much case closed. The only thing I'm really not so chuffed on is that I still feel I've got a few too many things and not enough wear in some of them, so I've slowly been trying to whittle it down to the things I like the most and identify what's best for my daily uses. But um @exaptavist I do recall @Double 0 Soul posting a pic in his well worn Freewheeler 47's some time ago with recognition that they were indeed something solid. I'll admit, out of the repro brands, I do find FW the best, simply because they go the longest most reliably without having to repair busted ass threads or darn the crotch (good patterning!), both things I'm annoyed to do and have done with every other pair! I do agree that group think can kill flair, but like, we all came here because we really liked the most basic, ubiquitous garment on the planet.

I should have been this crowd, I guess? I was perhaps a few years too old, but it all looked pretty ridiculous to me when it was happening. I was a little punk but it had a totally strong whiff of sellout vibes even at that point - and there were people who got excited about it blowing up and people who were pretty put off by it. The Fuct founder's point about skateshops hits pretty well - so many of them now seem like they want to be these sort of high fashion adjacent stores with some decks, but they just lack the whole spirit of the ones before. I know things always change but I'm bummed it's gotten that way for kids who don't have much to spend and need a place to have respite for the afternoons - the old ones were literally hang out spots - with couches, videos going, even drinks and snacks etc - as much as stores. Supreme wasn't really that respected in the circles I ran in, and never really got that way. Strangely, from my vantage point it was never even a serious skateboard company (I know many would argue this tooth and nail). Same with Fuct, honestly - no one really wore that shit, save some rollerbladers! But whatever. I was more of a Drawls / XYZ / Droors fan in the mid/late 90's - Four Star was also huge as a clothing brand that didn't make hardware, but it was associated with Girl/Chocolate and Eric Koston and all those dudes. And of course Alien Workshop and Toy Machine were some of my favorites. Funny about North Face too - when at was at university in the early/mid 00's it had already well jumped the shark, being the uniform (paired with uggs) of the entire sorority scene. I don't love how hoodies look much of the time but will always keep some around because the warmth/comfort factor is undeniable!

It's been mentioned before but Freewheelers is really pretty good with sizing consistency. It doesn't mean you can't wear 2 different sizes from them, but it does mean that if you're a 32 in one of their jeans and have a pretty proper, traditionally aligned fit, then a 32 in any of their jeans is probably what's going to correspond to the intent of the original pattern. If the waist itself is a little different, that's probably on account of the rise being a little bit different. This is my own opinion that I've also mentioned before but I think if one has to size up for a suitable top block that's indicative it's quite possibly just not a great cut for someone. A too loose waist that tapers down isn't a great look most of the time. Not that it doesn't work sometimes for some people, but something else - a fuller cut - will probably work better.

reminds me of this - a little history https://www.jenkemmag.com/home/2019/05/23/discussing-history-fuct-current-streetwear-market/ i remember my local shop carrying it, but never crossed into owning one of them.

Tender makes the longest jeans I’ve ever gotten - I think they tend to come around 38” if not a little longer.

@indigoeagle FWIW - I had the SS in a size smaller (29) than the regular 0105 (30). My SS, only worn one or two times, were larger in both the waist and thighs than the bigger size of the 13.7 oz denim. I really needed a belt with the SS. I usually don't wear one. I'm not sure if it was the way they were sewn or if the fabric just gave that much in such quick wear time - but the real life factor was even more than a size bigger, closer to 2. I've since sold them so I can't provide any measurements.

My WW2 pair is raw and stored away, so I can’t comment on worn. They’re essentially the same (xx4) denim - on the most recent models - Ooe has made previous pairs with earlier iterations of denim. The WW2 pair’s was a little more flawed in production if I recall them saying, I can’t recall the specific differences. Maybe someone else can recall - it had a slightly greyer cast and maybe a little bit of irregularity? They’re both overall pretty smooth, uniform, tightly woven classic denim and very similar.

Inis Meain / Polar / Kapital / WMJ / Oak Street + snow (finally, my favorite part) Also for @Hopethisoneisnttaken a few throwbacks from 4 years ago. 2 diff Tender coats ( + tender jeans) + newborn.

I’m not great at detecting tone online, my bad. But yea, I think that brands like Kapital and 45R, and maybe even Tender (though different) are sort of in that mold - there is a lineage of such brands. Love makers like this. I’ve picked up a couple of Kapital coats over time and I really love them - just unique designs, sort of crazy but also completely practical and wearable and obviously inspired by traditional designs from that time period.