Josh'N'Roll

I used to live in Chicago and frequented Mildblend. There was a shift in customer service at a point that coincided with one of their long-ish term staff (Kevin was his name IIRC) moving on to explore other opportunities. The crew that was there with Kevin mastered the basics of denim retail and gave sound advice about sizing (though they could be annoying in pushing newbies towards expensive brands like Iron Heart and PBJ when that person came in asking about Naked & Famous). The employees have been a mixed bag since Kevin left save for the owner’s daughter. She knows her stuff and is great finding/suggesting items for women. My wife had some great experiences trying on things with her help. The rest of the staff has turned over a few times and most of them seem new to heritage clothing and raw denim.

That’s a great point and something I’ve noticed, too. Items sell out quickly and popular sizes are hard to snag unless one checks the site regularly.

I’ve proxied Kapital items from the Kapital website using From Japan. Setting up an account is simple, ordering items is as easy as dropping a link in the From Japan order form, and the fees and shipping are reasonable. You'll save a ton of cash particularly if you purchase more than one item.

Great thread revival, @Talan! I’m having a blast reading everyone’s choices for favorite denim. Number 1 on my list is Roy, early run Black Seed Denim. I bought a pair of Kinda Special 1001 that I was not initially smitten with. That changed as I put wear into them. At 13.75oz, they’re a comfortable weight. The denim starts out slightly hairy but becomes smooth as it fades. It’s a seemingly ordinary denim that is subtly spectacular. What I love most about it, though, is that it reminds me of the way my jeans felt when I was a kid. The denim used for the Freewheelers 601xx 1947 is next on my list. I’m not fan of over engineered fabric with snow-like nep or slub the size of ping pong balls, but the texture FW achieves using 5 different thickness yarns for this denim feels great to wear and to run one’s hand over. A truly thoughtful and well executed denim. Last is the Warehouse Banner Denim. At my core, I have simple tastes and a deep appreciation for the basics. The Banner Denim is a foundational fabric for me, the Platonic ideal of what denim should be. It fades at a moderate rate, has a small amount of texture, and softens into an almost plush feeling fabric. I just wish it was a bit more durable so I could wear my 1001xx into my golden years before the hens start to fray. Keep the “most sought after” lists coming!

I've run into this issue with Warehouse jeans, too - some retailers copy/paste the measurements from the Warehouse site, others list their own measurements but not their measuring method. I ask the shop to measure a specific pair, let me know how they measure, and to send pics of the measuring process if possible. Most shops are open to this kind of request. It's worth it to get actual measurements. Last time I asked a retailer to send me measurements for the 1001xx, the actual measurements were vastly different from what was listed online - so far off that it appeared the measurements on the website were for a one-wash pair, while the pair for sale was "raw, unwashed." Shrinkage for the banner denim in my experience is 2"-2.5" in the waist, 3"-3.5" for the inseam. My 1001xx shrank at the waist from 37" to 34.75" and stretched with wear back to 36". The inseam went from 35" raw to 31.5" after 20+ washes. That S&S listing is annoying. Those jeans look suspiciously like Dead Stock Blue 1947 that was released recently.

The 800 is made with a different denim that is ~14.5oz. It also feels like a tighter weave. I think that’s why the inseam shrinks less on a pair of 800s compared to a pair of jeans made with the Banner Denim. My 1001hxx are Banner Denim and the inseam shrunk from 35” to 31.5” over 3 years. It’s easy to stretch the inseam 0.5”-1” if needed.

Sold.

Warehouse x Hinoya 2021hxx collaboration jeans in Banner Denim, 1001 cut, and with a longhorn patch. These have been my main pair for daily wear since 2021. The front pocket entries have holes, so they’re on hiatus until I get them repaired. Love the Banner Denim and how easy-wearing the cut is.

“Pure Energy” vibes.

Sold out everywhere. Believe me, I've looked! The 1001xx in banner denim is a core piece of Warehouse's collection, so I'm sure they'll release a new lot in the near future. Just not sure when.

Nice pair of black jeans. The patch looks remarkably clean for all the wear you've put into them.

Sad news out of Japan as Toshikiyo Hirata, founder of Kapital, has died. One of the highlights of my trip to Japan was visiting Kapital shops across the Golden Route. I admired the brand’s aesthetic, but didn’t think it would fit with my personal style. While a lot of the stuff they produce is too wild for me, most everything they make is high quality. My wife and I had a blast trying stuff on and purchased a few of their tamer, more basic pieces. The man had a vision and his contributions to denim and fashion are undeniable. RIP Hirata-san

That’s the shoe that let’s Magic do what he was born to do!

I support this decision. You’ll never again be this young with this much time off from work. Take the opportunity and go! It might cost a bit to get there, but the weak Yen will make things affordable once you arrive. I’ll bet Hoosiers would welcome a visit if you made it to Kyoto. It would definitely be the trip of a lifetime.

I am looking to move a few pairs of jeans, hoping that some of you will get good use out of them. If you see something you like, let me know and let's see if we can work out a deal. I'll ship internationally with the actual shipping costs added to the sale price. I'm happy to answer questions about the jeans, too. All measurements taken using the BiG method. SOLD: Warehouse 1101 Big E, size 36 SOLD: Resolute 710, BNWT, size 36 Ooe Yofukuten OA01xx2, size 38, $120 shipped CONUS, PayPal friends and family ($125 PayPal “goods”) Imgur: https://imgur.com/a/uMIzrGo Older pair of the OA01 produced with their short lived xx2 denim. Well-loved, -worn, and -washed pair with plenty of life left in them. · Waist - 17.875” laid flat, waistband aligned (may stretch to 18" but not much more than that) · Front rise - 12” · Back rise - 17” · Thigh at crotch seam - 13.75” · Knee - 9.75” · Hem - 9” · Inseam - 32.125” Roy R01, size 36, $400 shipped CONUS, PayPal friends and family ($416 PayPal “goods”) Imgur: https://imgur.com/a/ZvabhTp Roy R01 (vegan patch for Self Edge) in excellent, gently used condition. They are still a deep shade of indigo with minimal fading, most noticeably on the welted belt loops and back pockets. Original hem done by Roy. · Waist - 17.625” laid flat, waistband aligned (will stretch a bit with wear) · Front rise - 12” · Back rise - 17” · Thigh at crotch seam - 13.875” · Knee - 9.625” · Hem - 8.75” · Inseam - 34.625”

I think contact via Instagram is the primary option for Tilden, currently.

Me too. Zippers and snap closures are anathema to lots of denim heads. Roy posted an IG story saying that he sold his remaining denim stock to Tilden. That would include whatever black seed denim he had left, I suppose. Having a pair of jeans made with Roy’s White Oak Cone Mills denim might be selling point enough for some.

Long shot here, but does anyone have an unworn/gently used pair of the Warehouse x Hinoya 2021hxx in size 36 that they’d be willing to part with? I’ve had my eye on Yahoo Auctions for a bit and have only seen smaller sizes turn up. Would love to snag another pair if I can find one.

With the 800xx, go by the measurements, not the tag size. Recent lots of the 800 have been undersized compared to lots produced 5-8 years ago. The measurements you posted illustrate this well. Size 36 measures 84cm at the waist according to both Second Sunrise and Hinoya. The 14oz denim will stretch some, but it’s not as forgiving as the Banner Denim in my experience. Getting the waist to stretch to 90cm is possible but it won’t be comfortable to wear the jeans out of the wash and they may not ever get to 90cm. The 800xx lots produced in the mid 2010s were much more consistent in sizing. I had a couple pairs in size 36 that measured 47cm across raw and shrank to 44.5cm after multiple washes. With wear, they stretched to 45.5cm but were still snug in the top block. If I were to get a pair of 800xx now I’d go with a tag size 38 (my waist measurement is still 45.5cm).

Bravo! Those look incredible.

My first thought seeing your pics was “those buttons look noice!” Looking forward to seeing everyone’s fit and fade pics.

Oh hells yes! Great news!!

As the end of the year draws closer, I'd like to reserve a pair of Imperial Jeans in size 36 for January 1, 2024 when you start giving them away for free. 😁