julian-wolf

I'd been going back and forth for a while on what to use for the ear straps / neck straps of the masks I've been making—hollow cotton shoe laces work well, but they don't have much stretch to them, which makes non-bespoke sizing tough; elastic bands, meanwhile, give out over time (as already discussed in the last couple of pages) and often irritate the backs of my ears.

Ordinarily, I really don't like working with jersey—largely because of how much it pulls / stretches without the aid of interfacing, but also because of how readily the edges curl due to the tensioning of the knit. Here, though, the curling would mean that strips could be cut and left unfinished without too much worry of the raw edges fraying away, and the stretchiness would make fitting easy. I had some scraps of 100% merino jersey laying around and gave it a go, and I've been really pleased with the results.

The merino is comfortable behind my ears, and this particular knit stretches to around 170% against the grain, which is really great here. At around $40 / yard, it's also much cheaper than either shoelaces or elastic bands (especially in this case, since I already have enough scrap around for at least a couple dozen masks…). Would definitely recommend for anyone who's been making their own masks.

Pictured: brazilwood-dyed raw silk herringbone x basketweave with merino jersey ear straps & a makeshift nose wire fashioned from an old keyring

More of the same

Turmeric mask / Tender Co. / Tezomeya / Hollows / Cane's / Red Wing

Autumn kinda week

Brazilwood mask / Ooe cossack / Tezo tee / Hollows / Cane’s / Lofgren

I've had a few standard TFH workshirts (HN-52W, CO-30W) that fit pretty well besides being too big in the neck, and I have one 7104 Western shirt (Long Horn style tag) that fits great everywhere

Looking now at the standard TFH Western shirts (F-DS101 or similar—standard TFH style tag, not Long Horn): to which of the above do they fit more similarly? Any insight?

48 minutes ago, Duodequinquagesimus said:

I don’t own any pairs but I checked their site and many pics in here and I don’t like the fits at all 

To be fair, you really still haven’t shown us any of what you do like

How goes the old adage? Talk shit, post fit

^ Whoa, those measurements have the sleeves way longer than I’ve seen on any other sites, even accounting for shrinkage

^ Thanks much. Those measurements are with the jacket still rigid?

Really looking forward to this, but 24” pre-soak sleeves are pretty scary, even with the oversized shoulders…gonna have to poke through some old fit pics to get a better idea of how it’s likely to drape

Would anyone who has a size 4 or 5 from the original run of the Type 900 mind posting measurements? Interested in shoulders & sleeves, in particular

I generally wear a 4 in Tender shirts, but sleeve length is a common limiting factor; I’ve tried other jackets on in the past and found that a 5 has worked best, but it does seem like these may be cut wide…

^ Looks like the standard 50/50 Okinawa denim

Hemmed short post-wash and worn enough to start fading…aren't they just like $270 new?

Don’t know about the rainbow-core fabrics and such, but as to the natural indigo SC40x00 models like those ^, I think they probably just weren’t very profitable—they sold for ¥30k, which is peanuts compared to the hand-dyed natural indigo offerings from most other companies…all the more so for those particular ones, the lot 400, which were also hand-folded and single-needle sewn, etc.
 

They were great as flagship models to show what the company was capable of, but if SC were to make them now they’d probably have to cost twice as much

Granted, this is all just speculation

Tempo’s a funny shop

Super sterile-feeling inside, and yeah, they carry a weird mix of brands—it doesn’t seem like they have much of a coherent style / identity that they’re going for

That said, the staff’s always been helpful & nice when I’ve stopped by, so 

Agreed—I emailed Ryo to see whether they're cut the same as the regular '50s; if they are, I'll take a 34 and the waist'll stretch, but 4" is really a lot of stretch

Oh jeez, that's a no-brainer for me

Anyone know what size I'd be in '50s? 33 or 34? Am 33 is most other things, but I guess I've probably gain 10–15 lbs. in the last few months, so…

edit: These measurements are out of control: sub-30" waist on a size 34? I know we just went through this with the contest jeans, but there's no way these stretch that much…probably gonna wait 'til other folks have a chance to report in; don't wanna be a guinea pig this time around

I've tried a slew of store-bought masks, and my favorites by far have been from Lucia LaFerme, out of Nevada City: https://www.lucialaferme.com/shop/silk-face-mask

They're very comfortable, and they're all naturally-dyed with a variety of neat dyestuffs—will aim to take some photos of mine in the next few days

Hoping this is an okay thread for posting others of William's projects besides Tender (writing that, I realize Whopper and GS/TP have both come up in the past, but I guess I never thought much about it)

Got the Rap Promoter cardigan, from this last run of Pop Punch sweaters, in just last week, and thought I might post some photos even though it's still in more or less new condition, just since not many seem to be floating around yet

Really happy with it so far; I was worried that the sleeves might be too short for me (this being the case for many main-line Tender offerings), but they're just about perfect, as is the fit through the body. The knit is pretty tight and has done me fine sitting out on my balcony into the night. Not much else to say about it, so far, besides that it's just as pretty in person as in the photos—the depth of color is really something else, in the reddish yarns in particular

^ Who makes that discharge-printed chore coat / overshirt? I have a button-down from Naked & Famous made from the same fabric, and it's a little flashy for every-day wear but every time I put it on I'm impressed by how comfortable it is

Pair of SJ-5 up on Yahoo (looks like an SdA collab?): https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/u389957954

Funny, hadn't ever heard of this brand before, but would be interested in seeing how they wear if anyone's inclined to pick them up…

More info: http://denim-gallery.heavy.jp/studio-dartisan/seasirjeans-sj5.html

Besides: One doesn’t wear a mask to protect themselves; they wear a mask to protect everyone else. It’s long been known that masks don’t do much to directly protect the wearer. The survival rate for the elderly is well under your 99.8%, and not everyone I’m interacting with is under 40. (Even if they were, 1/500 really isn’t that small of a number.)

@Dan_F, you’re not wrong, but be careful bringing politics into this—even if it’s only tangential (throwing blame at red states, however deservedly), that seems like a slippery slope.

The heavyweight Okinawa fabric (used for lots 303, 304, etc.) has less sugar millet in it, but all the standard lot x00 and x01 fabrics are 50/50

27 minutes ago, Lazerr said:

Do you know if the Hawaii and the Okinawa are vastly different in terms of feel and fades? I know the ratio between cotton and sugar cane is different. 

Both are 50/50 blends, but the fabrics feel and look very different from each other

On 9/29/2020 at 10:29 AM, julian-wolf said:

Has anyone here tried either of the new Self Edge collab jeans yet? Interested in any takes on the cut, particularly how much room there is up top 

Looking like I’m gonna be in SF this Saturday; I’ll probably end up swinging by to try them on then ‘cause why not

For anyone else interested: got a chance to try these on and they're even slimmer than the measurements suggest, both in the thighs and calves—oh well, still holding out hope that maybe one day they'll use the lot 470 fabric with one of their standard cuts

In June, I found some old light green plain weave raw silk in my scrap fabrics, maybe a quarter yard, and decided the color would go nice with kakishibu; painting ensued, and this was the result as seen while hanging to dry:

For reference, a view into the making of the dyestuff (not the same batch—actually, the paste that I used this time was store-bought):

Once dry, the silk became a mask, and now, three months later, it's seen a great deal of wear and the the kakishibu has begun to darken significantly with air and light exposure: