junkie_dolphin

Two thoughts on the GTPL:

1. Keep in mind the original J1 was actually made in Paclite. Not sure if the original idea was that it was a jacket you'd be pulling on and off a lot (hence interops), but that use-case certainly seems to suite the material.

2. I actually like the drape of the GTPL a little more than the regular GT. Seems a little more... buttery?

Edit: hang on, I don't see internal jacketsling loops in those photos—is it only external, or is it just the way the jacket's resting?

2 hours ago, the-intern said:

Curious of the earnest opinions of the recent price hikes from the long standing die hard fans out there. For what it's worth I see it as a move to protect ACRs ability to -accurately- proclaim their wares as artworks as much as they are outstanding products. Be very interested to hear how this has impacted the consumer opinion (Ive never been able to afford it myself to begin with).

According to Errolson (via instagram), prices have gone up because every aspect of manufacture has gotten more expensive. He has expressed dismay at this, going so far as to acknowledge that prices are indeed insane. I'm not in a position to judge, really—I just don't know enough about the economics of it. For what it's worth, Acronym refuses to move production to China, so that could be a serious factor. Veilance prices are certainly lower, but Veilance isn't quite as complicated as Acronym... and a lot of it is now made in China. People who have been paying attention will also notice that Veilance patterns have become less complicated over time.

It's depressing because Acronym's aesthetic lineage is deeply rooted in the counter-cultural... and yet, these days, it's mostly rich Chinese kids wearing it. It's doubly depressing because there really isn't anyone stepping up to fill the void, from a design perspective; I mean, there are certainly lots of knock-offs, brands trying to emulate the aesthetic... but how many are following the design process and taking time to think about problems in the way that Acronym does? Acronym has opened my eyes to a whole way of thinking through the design process—it is, in a very subtle way, didactic. That's good design. I'm just not seeing that from 99% of the technical clothing being produced today.

5 hours ago, JoseRizal said:

You will probably still have to clear your own package in your nearby customs and pick up the package in UPS warehouse

How does this work?

Never mind.

Honestly, if it was Gore-Tex Pro in that colourway and at that price... I'd cop. But fuck man, paclite? Shit's sticky af.

1 minute ago, lopiteaux said:

Can we all just have a moment's silence for the fact that it sold out in under a minute at 1.9k?

Probably a small run honestly.

I'll I wanted as a black J1A-GT. Gore-tex Pro. Nothing fancy. No neon, no paclite.

1 minute ago, lopiteaux said:

Can we all just have a moment's silence for the fact that it sold out in under a minute at 1.9k?

Probably a small run honestly.

I'll I wanted as a black J1A-GT. Gore-tex Pro. Nothing fancy. No neon, no paclite.

1 minute ago, dscent said:

What was retail on the J1A-GTPL ?

~1800 eur

J1A... increase the price... make it in paclite... wtf...?

Bagjack's really not that expensive. Why would we need another knockoff brand pumping out budget molle bags???

33 minutes ago, Micx said:

Im about to pull the trigger on my first Acronym jacket piece. In Veilance im a L. What should I go for in Acronym? L as well? 

Would be hell to buy wrong size

I guess now is as good a time as any to review sizing advice on Acronym pieces (especially seeing as how the next drop must be soon-ish).

How does one make sense of the measurements on the website? For example, what use are those shoulder measurements?

How does one size pants? I've heard that one should size for length, but is this always true?

2 minutes ago, bouncingsoul said:

if you look for a really functional pant, try mainline Arc.

3 hours ago, Toilettebun said:

Anyone here have insight on veilance pants patterning? I can't understand what the pattern entails in any veilance pants when they always feel so restrictive even after sizing up. the mobility is always so restricted to anything more than a casual stride. The fit is also questionable (or this might be my bias of how pants should fit) in regards to how it sits on the wearer. If all veilance pants were made of the same fabric and colour you wouldn't be able to differentiate them based on fit because there's no distinction without "gimmicks" such as the apparat's cobraX snap hem adjusters (imo sucks as well) or composite fabric construction. These are my personal opinion after owning the majority of the pants and either returning it or selling it after a couple weeks of wear. 

I was going to say "you'll get along great with Toilettebun," and then I realized you were Toilettebun. Man, small world.

I think a lot of the bellyaching around Veilance can be traced back to misconceptions about what Veilance is "about." People put Veilance in the same box as Acronym, but that's really not what they're going for. Acronym is more like mainline Arc'teryx without any of the restraint; if you took away Arc'teryx's emphasis on weight reduction and added a willingness to explore gimmicks, you'd basically have Acronym (this is, of course, a dramatic simplification, but you get me).

Veilance, as far as I can tell, is more about reduction and transposition of values. The procedure is something like: 1) take technical fabrics used in mainline; 2) take a relatively ubiquitous form from menswear (field jacket, fishtail parka, car coat...); 3) combine with emphasis on menswear rather than performance. Hence the lack of articulation, the lack of adjusters and self-sealing zips on many pieces... They're still producing new pieces with tricot for god's sake. The emphasis isn't on cutting-edge performance (for that you have to go to Ascent).

1 hour ago, wexler said:

There has to be a tipping point though, case and point with the 53's that are still sitting.

Yeah, the funny thing is that Grailed prices are going to be determined by a number of things—what people were willing to spend last year might not be the same this year (the hype is dying)—it's not just like acronym was undercharging. The olive bags are just sitting on Grailed, going for below retail—same with the jackets. I expect there will be a bit of correction over the next few drops.

4 hours ago, polarad said:

mainline stuff only ever looks good if you are head to toe dead bird

lol what

13 hours ago, branespload said:

not sure i like all the exposed baffle down stuff going on. towards the end it looks like a node down but the down isnt integrated? the hood isnt insulated.

You mean the Patrol Down?

1 hour ago, erictheninja said:

@junkie_dolphin

based on the design that point in the bag is going to be a stress point for the xpac material. all my foil bags have this.

before when i got my first one and i cared more i thought about how to remedy this. You can cut a full length thin piece of cardboard that goes along the entire length of the bag and used double sided tape to affix it to it and it wil support the material long term. 

or just say fuck it and let it be.

i vote the ladder.

Question is, will this lead to holes long-term? Or just the peeling of the film? The latter would be tolerable, though it would compromise the material's ability to resist water in that one area. Of course, it could always be patched with tenacious tape or something once it wears away...

[edit]

6 minutes ago, lopiteaux said:

No - I actually thought you were referring to the 3A-3TS, as I've heard that it has a similar issue where the foil starts peeling in the creases.

I'd think the issue would be the same on both bags, as the internal pockets are the same size. Maybe it depends on how much weight is being stashed in each pocket...

It's also possible I'm being way too picky. :S

5 minutes ago, lopiteaux said:

Perfect, thanks for this!

Did you pick up the olive x-pac 3a? Have you had anything similar happen?

5 hours ago, lopiteaux said:

Can I ask, how long have you been using the bag for? I've had mine since the last release and have been using it on a daily basis!

I've worn it twice. To be fair, it's extremely slight—just a single white crease on the inside, near the middle of the bag, just above the main zip. I can tell what's causing it; seems that, with anything in the two hanging pockets (which I use for my phone and wallet) the wait is distributed on the bag such that it sags in the middle, and creases right where the two pockets meet.

Here's a pic of the spot I'm talking about (not my bag though):

35 minutes ago, Toilettebun said:

WTB:   

J40-S raf sz medium

lol u

Anyone have any problems with white creases appearing on the film part of their xpac? Like areas where the material is getting flexed or bent a lot?

Plus rep and shout-out to @Xu Jianfeng—nicest guy I've ever done business with, online or off. Very friendly, generous, and accommodating. Shipped fast as hell, and everything arrived safe and sound.

On 3/15/2018 at 5:33 PM, the-intern said:

fyi Amer ownership HATES Veilance so get it while the getting still good... you can see the result in the past few seasons releases, it's clear that management is working hard to limit the hell out of the potential there... it's deeply saddening to see wings being clipped at such a key moment in this budding industry.

Depends on who you've heard this from—maybe you know someone waaaay up at the top, and you've got the super-secret-scoop—but Veilance is expanding very aggressively right now, which doesn't seem to indicate (at least to me) that it's being smothered. Arc'teryx is dumping more money into Veilance than ever before, and there's a lot in the works—plans stretching forward ~5 years at least. Now, if you've seen the stuff they're working on, and you think it all amounts to "wings being clipped..." cool, I guess. I'd just have to disagree with you.

I'm not in a position to comment on what exactly accounts for the "toning down" of Veilance in the past few years. It's hard not to look at Conroy's departure as a factor, but I'm sure there were a lot of other things going on (and it's not like Veilance is just one person—it's a whole team, and not everyone has stuck around). It's also worth pointing out that Veilance started out in a much more "restrained" mode—CPU-style garments, going for platonic simplicity. It wasn't until the second or third year that things started to get a little more experimental. We're arguably coming out the other end of that now, but you could just as easily frame it as a return to form.

On 3/15/2018 at 5:33 PM, the-intern said:

By and large the quality across the entire outerwear apparel industry has plummeted over the past few years (it saddens to say that none moreso than Arcteryx since its acquisition by Amer Sports!!!).

Curious what "quality" means in this context. Arc'teryx still makes really solid stuff—if anything the tech is better than it was a decade ago (when Amer bought Arc'teryx).